Champagne grapes have intensely sweet berries perfect for fresh eating and cooking. These miniature grapes pack more flavor than their size suggests. Gardening expert Madison Moulton explains how to grow these delightful table grapes successfully. When most people think of growing grapes, they picture large vines or pergolas draped with foliage. But there is a more adorable way to grow grapes, and eat them too. Champagne grapes have tiny clusters of intensely sweet berries that are perfect for snacking, garnishing, and cooking. Don’t let the name fool you though, as these aren’t used for making actual champagne. More on that later. The challenge with champagne grapes is that their small size makes them more delicate than standard grape varieties. They need careful handling and specific growing conditions to produce those perfect miniature clusters. Here’s everything you need to know about growing these specialty grapes in your own garden. What Is It? Champagne grapes aren’t actually a single variety but rather a term for several types of tiny grapes. These produce berries that are roughly the size of small peas, clustered tightly together in small, elegant bunches. The berries are typically dark purple to black when ripe, with an incredibly sweet, concentrated flavor that’s much more intense than larger grapes. Each berry contains tiny seeds that are barely noticeable when eating, making them perfect for fresh consumption. What makes these grapes special is their incredible sweetness and unique texture. The small size means the skin-to-flesh ratio is higher than regular grapes, giving them a more concentrated flavor that’s prized by chefs and food enthusiasts. Characteristics The most obvious characteristic you’ll notice is size. These grapes are tiny compared to standard varieties. Individual berries rarely exceed 1/4 inch in diameter, clustering together in small, tight bunches that are usually only a few inches long. The vines themselves are vigorous growers that can reach 10 feet long or more if left unpruned. They produce heart-shaped leaves typical of grape vines, with good fall color in many climates. The growth habit is similar to wine grapes, with strong woody canes that need support. Champagne grapes are typically seedless or nearly seedless, though some varieties may have very small, soft seeds. The berries have thin skins that are easy to bite through, and the flesh is incredibly sweet with a pleasant, slightly tart finish. Harvest timing is crucial because these grapes can go from perfectly ripe to overripe very quickly due to their small size and thin skins. Native Area Most champagne grape varieties originate from the Mediterranean region, particularly Greece and surrounding areas. The Black Corinth variety that’s commonly sold as champagne grapes has been cultivated in Greece for over 2,000 years. These grapes evolved in a climate with hot, dry summers and mild, wet winters. The Mediterranean climate provides the long, warm growing season these grapes need to develop their characteristic sweetness, along with the dry conditions that help prevent fungal diseases. The original growing regions have rocky, well-draining soils and plenty of sunshine, which influences how these grapes perform in cultivation. Understanding this background helps explain their specific growing requirements. Planting Spring planting works best for champagne grapes in most climates. You want to get them established during the growing season so they can develop strong root systems before winter arrives. In mild climates, fall planting can work, but spring gives you the best chance of success. They need full sun (at least 6-8 hours daily) and excellent air circulation to prevent disease problems. Choose a spot with well-draining soil where water doesn’t collect after rain. Plant bare-root vines in early spring while they’re still dormant. Dig holes wide enough to spread the roots comfortably, but don’t plant too deeply. Container plants can go in the ground once soil temperatures warm up. Space plants about 6 feet apart if you’re growing multiple vines. They’ll need sturdy support structures, so install trellises or posts before planting to avoid disturbing the roots later.

The interspecific pluot tree is a hybrid of plums and apricots that produces juicy, delicious fruit. Floyd Zaiger developed this fruit tree in the US. Sarah Jay will share our tips on growing pluots at home. If you love the taste of plums and apricots, you may be thrilled to know there is such a thing as a pluot tree. Pluots are a hybrid of plums and apricot fruit trees that were developed by Floyd Zaiger, a renowned botanist. By crossing other hybrids and hand pollinating various fruit trees, Floyd brought the pluot into existence. Thanks to Floyd, you can practice gardening pluots in their gardens. Many people eagerly await pluot season to enjoy ‘Flavor King’, ‘Flavor Supreme’, ‘Flavor Queen’, or semi-dwarf ‘Dapple Dandy’ pluot. Most commonly, pluots are grown in areas that have distinct winters, but you will probably find the fruit of pluots in stores while they’re in season. If you want to have the incredible sweetness of pluots in the early summer, keep reading! Pluots are exceptional, but require the same care as a plum tree. If you have experience with different types of plum trees, you know you can tackle caring for pluot trees. Even with no experience, it’s possible to grow one to fruition. What is The Pluot Tree? Pluots grow much like plums, on small trees that reach 16 to 36 feet tall and spread up to 10 feet wide without pruning. They are perennials with shallow roots. Characteristics Pluots have oblong green leaves with a pointed tip, while some varieties have purple leaves. In the spring season, clusters of flower buds sprout from tree branches. Then, attractive pink to white four-petaled flowers bloom. In three to four months, trees set fruit in the fall season. Most pluots don’t produce until the third or fourth year of growth, so those who choose to grow them in their garden should know they are in for the long haul. Pluots do not self-pollinate, and most varieties need a second tree to produce fruit in late summer. Choose trees that have a pollination match for what you want to produce. For instance, a ‘Flavor Grenade’ pollinates with another ‘Flavor Grenade’. Alternately, grow a ‘Flavor Grenade’ with its direct ancestor, ‘Inca Plum’, because it is successful in cross-pollination with the “child” variety. ‘Santa Rosa’ plum plants cross-pollinate with certain pluots as well. With these, you’ll need to grow two trees at once or grow a multi-grafted tree of four varieties that will automatically self-pollinate. Today, pluots in season are popular at farmer’s markets and grocery stores. The fruit is about the size of a large apricot fruit, plum-like, and has smooth skin. Depending on the variety, the flesh of the fruit is red to yellow. The skin is dark purple, red, or yellow. There are many variations. The taste and flavor of the fruits are intensely sweet and somewhat tangy. People enjoy them fresh, in jams and jellies, and in cobblers and pies during their season. Interspecific Fruit The pluot tree is a member of the Prunus genus, hybridized from two other Prunus species. Other fun hybrids include plumcots, apriums, and apriplums. Floyd Zaiger, a famous botanist who specialized in hand-pollinating and hybridizing stone fruit, crossed a plumcot with a Japanese plum. And voila! We have the delectable pluot with its apricot-tinged, plumlike flesh, and sweet taste. Varieties include ‘Flavor King’, ‘Flavor Queen’, and ‘Flavor Supreme’ which are all remarkable. We also owe our appreciation to him for the semi-dwarf ‘Dapple Dandy’ pluots, which are immensely popular. Other varieties, such as ‘Splash’ pluots, feature yellow skin and a delightful flavor. Many people specifically seek out ‘Splash’ pluots for their use in desserts. Pluots are just one of many interspecific fruits or hybrids of different fruit tree species. In this case, we’re talking about the stone fruit type, or cherries, peaches, nectarines, plums, and apricots. Plumcots are a direct mix of an apricot tree and a Japanese plum tree. Japanese plum is often used as the rootstock for grafts of pluot branches as a result, as it’s a well-established species and is resilient to a lot of problems plums and pluots often suffer. Pluots are more plum-dominant than plumcots. Some pluerries are a hybrid of ‘Burgundy’ plum or ‘Santa Rosa’ plums and cherry trees, as ‘Santa Rosa’ plum trees are known for their sweet and slightly tart flavor. There are many other blends, such as nectaplums, peachcots, and so on. In fact, there are trees that have branches grafted from many different hybridized species to create self-fruitful “fruit cocktail” style trees! The key to hybridizing is to include both grafting and hand-pollination, techniques that enabled Floyd Zaiger to create the pluot varieties we know and love today. And, going forward, new varieties will continue to appear! Planting Once you’ve located and acquired bare root fruit trees from a nursery, select a site that is in full sun with well-draining soil. Set your trees in the late winter season or early spring season during dormancy. Ensure the space is out of high winds. Space trees at least 18 feet apart. Soak the root zone of the trees in water for one to two hours before planting. Dig a hole 18 inches deep and wide, breaking up any compacted soil in the process. Prune the trees back to 30 inches tall at planting, focusing on cutting side branches back to three to four buds. Place the tree in the hole so the root zone sits naturally with the bud union two inches above the soil. Fill the soil back into the hole, tamping it down as you go to remove any air pockets. Water in the newly planted trees, and ensure the bud union is still two inches above the ground. Mound the soil around the base and add a few inches of mulch, with space between it and the trunk.

The most popular cherry grown by commercial farmers is also available for growing in home gardens. In this article, gardening expert Wendy Moulton shares how to care for fantastic ‘Bing’ cherry trees! The sweet fragrance of white cherry blossoms in spring will burst into rich, large fruits in summer with their tasty, sweet flesh. In autumn, the green serrated leaves turn golden – truly a tree for all seasons. It is, however, the cherries that they are known for. ‘Bing’ cherry trees produce deep red heart-shaped fruits with a sweet, delicious taste and small seeds, giving you more cherry for your pie. These vigorous growers are perfect for temperate climates and will produce up to 50 pounds of fruit per year for many years to come. The prolific fruit on this tree, the large size of the cherries, and the deep red color all make this the variety to plant. It requires a pollinator tree planted nearby, which adds to the variation in cherries you can grow in a home garden. Here, I’ll share the requirements ‘Bing’ cherries need to perform at their best. What Is It? Prunus avium ‘Bing’ is America’s most produced variety of cherry in the commercial market. Its origins have a colorful history, starting in the mid-1800s when the Lewelling family traveled west across the country from Iowa to Oregon, bringing with them 700 fruit trees. They started the first nursery on the West Coast and planted orchards of prunes, apples, and cherries, which is believed was the beginning of Oregon’s fruit-growing industry. The ‘Bing’ cherry tree was named for Chinese horticulturalist and foreman at the Lewelling orchards, Ah Bing. His legacy lives on in this award-winning cherry cultivar. For the nearly 150 years that the ‘Bing’ cherry has been in production, it has set the standard by which other cultivars are judged. Native Area Originally from Germany, these trees are descendants of the ‘Napoleon Bigarreau’ variety. The ‘Bing’ cherry was bred in Milwaukie, Oregon, from original trees brought from Iowa by the Henderson Luelling. Characteristics ‘Bing’ is a tall tree with a rounded canopy that can grow up to 35 feet and 25 feet wide. Dwarf varieties are more compact, with a mature height of around 15 feet and 12 feet wide. The leaves are long, serrated, dark green for most of the year, and turn golden yellow in the fall. The tree will be full of pretty, fragrant spring blossoms that form the sought-after large fruits, a deep red when ripe in the summer. This tree is a vigorous grower and a prolific producer of quality, firm cherries. ‘Bing’ requires another pollinator cherry close by to set fruit; it is not self-pollinating. The best-recommended varieties to plant as pollinators are ‘Sam’, ‘Van’, ‘Rainier’, and ‘Stella’. Planting Find a position in full sun and with enough space for the mature size of a ‘Bing’ cherry—at least 25 feet—and a pollinator cherry. Locate it away from other plants and buildings in a spot with plenty of sunlight. Dig a hole at least twice the width and height of the root ball so that the roots have a chance to expand and sit in the ground well to hold the weight of the tree. A stake is necessary, particularly in windy areas. Add the tree and backfill the soil, pressing it down as you go to remove any air pockets in the soil and prevent any bacterial infections from getting to the roots. Create a basin around the tree’s base to help direct water toward the roots. After planting, water the plant well and add a layer of mulch, making sure that the mulch does not touch the tree’s bark.