Drift roses are compact, vigorous, disease-resistant roses that grow in a variety of conditions with ease. A wave of blooms emerges in late spring and repeat-flowers through frost. With their quick growth, mannerly size, and abundance of soft flowers, Drifts create an eye-catching display in versatile garden locations. Join gardening expert Katherine Rowe in exploring how to foster these easy going shrubs and their delicate appeal. Drift® roses are small-scale roses that flower continually throughout the growing season. In soft shades like apricot, lemon, and peach to vibrant pink and red, a profusion of blooms against compact dark, glossy foliage brings long-lasting color. Their manageable size, disease resistance, and low maintenance make them easy to incorporate into the landscape. Loads of petite, densely packed flowers appear as single cups or double rosettes and carry a light fragrance. The low-growing, prolific plants boast excellent disease resistance and adaptability, making them a lovely but tough-as-nails landscape favorite. What are Drift® Roses? Drifts are a cross between classic groundcover roses and miniature roses. They bear the disease resistance, toughness, hardiness of groundcovers, and mannerly habit and repeat flowering of their miniature parentage. Introduced by Star Roses, a partnership of French rose breeders Meilland and Pennsylvania-based Conard-Pyle Company, Drift comes from the same hybridizers of the Knockout rose. Knockouts are mid-size shrubs with durable appeal, and Drifts represent the same rugged qualities in a more delicate package. As landscape groundcover roses, Drifts tolerate various conditions and need little gardener intervention. They don’t require spraying or fertilizer to grow. They’re winter-hardy and tolerate heat and humidity. Use the flowering shrubs in small groups to create a carpet of color or as single-potted specimens. They grow beautifully along borders, walkways, and among existing shrubs and perennials. Plant them on a hillside for erosion control, along a wall, or as a hedge for added interest and color. Characteristics The florific shrubs are available in a range of colors on mounding plants with a tidy form. On average, they reach only one and a half to three feet tall and spread two to three feet. Each variety bears its own hue, flower form, and habit. The soft blooms have a light, sweet fragrance if you experience them up close. Dark green, glossy leaves provide a stable backdrop to the continual flowers. After the initial flush, plants continue to bloom throughout the warm season without deadheading. The flowers are “self-cleaning” and drop petals on their own. New blooms take their place, usually flowering every five to six weeks but as often as five times a year in warm climates. The shrubs retain a tidy habit and need minimal pruning to maintain a full form. Native Area Drift roses are of garden origin and bred specifically for the high-performing attributes of their low-growing parent plants: groundcover and miniature selections. Groundcover roses are low-growing shrub roses with a trailing, spreading, or sprawling habit. They quickly fill a slope or ramble along a wall with little care. Many are likely descendants of wild climbing ancestors from Eastern Asia, particularly China. Miniature roses, the other parent of Drift® hybrids, likely originate from old China roses, Rosa chinensis. Repeat flowering and compact form are a result of hybridizing miniature varieties. Both types grow across various climate conditions, particularly the hardy groundcover parentage. Planting Carpet types are versatile in countless planting arrangements. Their manageable size makes them perfect for tucking into open pockets, filling a border, or punctuating a container. Depending on the variety, leave three to four feet between selections to allow room for mature growth. Like all roses, they’ll appreciate ample air circulation between other plants. To grow them in a container, choose a vessel twice as large as the nursery pot with good drainage. Opt for a high-quality potting mix and check regularly for adequate moisture. Potted plants dry out more quickly than in-ground plantings. Drifts prefer even moisture, though they can dry a bit between watering sessions.

If you ever want to grow a versatile herb that adds a fresh, peppery taste to your dishes, then you can't go wrong with parsley. This green, bushy herb is wonderful for its variety to fit different cuisines, but it's also super easy to grow. You can choose to grow your parsley in an indoor container or outside garden, but either way, you must prune the plant once it starts to grow. Pruning parsley is essential not just for the plant's overall health, but for its appearance and taste. "Regular pruning encourages the plant to grow fuller and bushier, which means more fresh parsley for you," says Sarah Rubens, owner of Seeds to Sanctuary. "If you skip pruning, parsley can become leggy and weak, and the lower leaves may turn yellow and die off." So, how exactly do you prune parsley? We asked Rubens to share her expert tips, like the proper technique and knowing when the time is right to prune. How to Prune Parsley Before you take a pair of garden shears to your plant and begin cutting away, it's important to know the proper technique to prune parsley correctly. Many people make the mistake of pruning too much of the plant or cutting too close to the bud, which harms your plant and stunts its growth. Rubens says all you need is a pair of sharp garden shears or scissors on hand to make a clean cut within each stem. Then, she says to use your shears or scissors to snip the stems at the base of the plant near the soil instead of cutting off the leaves. "Focus on cutting the outer, older stems first and leaving the younger, inner ones to continue growing. This method promotes healthy, continuous growth," she says. When to Prune Parsley You may be used to growing certain flowers like hydrangeas, roses, or peonies that require pruning to maintain the plant's shape, control diseases, or encourage healthy blooms for next season. Pruning parsley is similar, but you're looking for different signs that indicate it's time to prune, and there are different reasons why pruning is essential for this herb. While flowers mostly need pruning after they've bloomed, parsley needs to be pruned while it's still growing once the plant has become established. "The best time to prune parsley is once the plant has become established and is producing several stems—typically a few weeks after planting," Rubens says. She also notes that the earlier you prune during the growth, the better your harvest will be. "Look for signs such as multiple stems with full leaves and avoid letting the plant get too tall or leggy, which may signal it’s overdue for a trim," she says. "Also, if you see yellowing leaves or a flower stalk forming, it’s time to act fast, as parsley will soon bolt and go to seed." Parsley Care Tips Pruning parsley is a relatively simple task that's much easier than pruning flowers. While this task is crucial for the herb's growth, there are a few other important care tips that lend a hand towards optimal plant production. Rubens says sunlight is key to allowing your parsley plant to thrive with its growth. She recommends giving your parsley plant at least six hours of sunlight a day, as well as keeping the soil moist but not overly soggy. "Parsley appreciates well-drained soil and regular harvesting, which actually stimulates more growth," she says. "Fertilize sparingly with a balanced, organic fertilizer every few weeks to support healthy foliage. Watch for pests like aphids and treat them early if needed." Lastly, Rubens says if you start to notice your parsley plant flowering, then it means it's at the end of its life cycle. "You can try to delay bolting by cutting the flower stalks immediately, but the flavor often changes once this process begins."

With their dusky pink skins and multicolor interior, ‘Cherokee Purple’ tomatoes are dazzling on the vine and in the kitchen. This unique heirloom variety has a full-bodied flavor and dense, luscious texture, perfect for slicing. This is reason enough to plant and grow ‘Cherokee Purple’ tomatoes! The large globe-shaped fruits are almost as meaty as a ‘Beefsteak’ and have similarly small seed cavities, making for an exceptionally rich culinary experience. Plus, the stout vines grow rapidly! Heirloom tomatoes come from seeds that have been passed down for centuries. While ‘Cherokee Purple’ plants enjoy similar conditions to your favorite garden hybrids, they have a few unique requirements you’ll want to meet to maximize your yields. Let’s dig into everything you need to know about growing this flavorful tomato! History and Cultivation While the ‘Cherokee Purple’ tomato carries the name of the Cherokee tribal people and stories claim that they originated with that tribe, there has never been conclusive proof of their tribal origins – only a story passed along to the man who spearheaded their popularity. Heirloom tomato specialist Craig LeHoullier received a packet of seeds of this almost-black tomato in the mail. The sender stated the seeds had originally come from a tribal member. While the tribal origin was never proven, LeHoullier chose to keep the name to honor the statement made by its originator. The rich flavor revealed in test trials proved that this tomato was worthy of further development. In 1993, the Southern Exposure Seed Exchange was the first seed company to offer it as a limited edition seed packet. Ironically, the owner of SESE was quoted saying the tomato “tasted fine, but was kind of ugly – people may not like it.” But the plant took the gardening world by storm. Its uniquely brown, green, burgundy, and rose tones have captivated gardeners for decades since, warranting tremendous seed-saving efforts to maintain the heirloom flavor. It’s extremely popular and, regardless of its origins, its flavor makes it worth growing year after year! In recent years, Craig LeHoullier has expressed regret for naming the tomato after the tribe without confirming its origination. In 2022, he and other seed growers discussed the seed naming process at the Organic Seed Alliance’s annual seed conference, as many seeds carry tribal names whether or not they actually originated with those tribal groups. Is ‘Cherokee Purple’ An Heirloom Tomato? This plant is an heirloom, meaning its seeds have been saved and passed down through generations. After many years of regular open-pollination in cultivation, ‘Cherokee Purple’ seeds stay true to type when grown. This means collecting seeds from the fruits and replanting them next year will yield the same delicious fruits. The genetics of this variety have remained strong through hundreds of years of cultivation and sale. This rich, old-time tomato flavor and eye-catching ribbed shape set it apart from other heirlooms. The extra-large-sized fruits are almost as big as a ‘Beefsteak,’ ranging from 3-5 inches in diameter. What is ‘Cherokee Purple’ Tomato Best For? Known for their rich, classic tomato flavor and dark color, ‘Cherokee Purple’ tomatoes are ideal for fresh eating. The treasured, award-winning tomato has a balance of sweetness and slight smokiness. The vine-ripened fruits have dusky rose-blushed skin with green, purple, or brown streaking on the interior. The seed cavities are small and don’t have the watery texture of other heirlooms, making them perfect for a sandwich or burger without the risk of soggy bread. They are delicious in salads, caprese, and fresh salsas or sliced with a sprinkling of salt on top. Are ‘Cherokee Purple’ Tomatoes Hard to Grow? ‘Cherokee Purple’ is ideal for beginner tomato growers because the stout vines are easy to maintain and thrive without much fuss. If the plant has full sunlight and plenty of warm weather (over 60°F), these tomatoes will ripen to their dark, luscious color in less than three months! This old-fashioned heirloom is adapted to intensely hot summers of the Southeast and tolerates humidity fairly well. Propagation You can grow this treasured tomato from seed or a pre-purchased seedling. The most critical factor in a tomato’s early growth is light. Avoid leggy tomato starts by ensuring 6-8 hours of sunlight daily. Seed ‘Cherokee Purple’ tomato seeds are widely available and easy to plant. It’s best to start them indoors because spring weather is unpredictable in the garden. About 5-6 weeks before transplanting, prepare 6-packs, cell trays, or 4-inch pots. Fill them with a quality, well-drained seed starter mix. Avoid compacting the soil too firmly. Sow 1-2 seeds ¼” deep in each cell and lightly cover. Seeds should only be sown at a depth twice their largest dimension. Since tomato seeds are relatively flat and round, they wind up very close to the soil surface. Don’t bury them too deeply. Thoroughly water in the seeds and keep them consistently moist but never soggy. Use a fan-nozzle hose or wide watering can to distribute the water across the surface without dislodging the seeds. Use a soil thermometer probe to ensure the mix stays 75-85°F. For the best germination, add a seed heating mat beneath the trays. ‘Cherokee Purple’ germinates within 5-10 days. Grow the seedlings at a continuous 60-75°F ambient temperature. When plants have their first set of true leaves, thin to one seedling per cell. Fertilize with a diluted fish emulsion to encourage rapid establishment. Supplemental Lighting If you don’t have a south-facing window or greenhouse, you will probably need to grow lights to ensure vigorous, healthy plants. Suspend your grow lights close to the trays initially, or lift the trays until they are 6-8” below the light. As the tomatoes grow, slowly bring the light away from them. If they look spindly or like they are “reaching” upwards (long spaces of stem between new leaves), the light is too far away. Don’t Start Too Soon! Be careful not to start your tomatoes too soon. Rootbound, leggy, or flowering transplants have difficulty adjusting in the garden. You may miss out on early production if the plants undergo a shock period. ‘Cherokee Purple’ grows surprisingly fast, and you don’t want a bunch of overgrown seedlings waiting by the windowsill for the weather to warm. If you plan to plant 1-2 weeks after your last frost date, sow the seeds no sooner than three weeks before the last frost date. For most temperate gardeners, this window is around February or March in the south and April or May in the north. Seedling Starts If starting seeds indoors sounds like too much trouble, you can usually find ‘Cherokee Purple’ plants at most nurseries or garden stores. Purchasing tomato starts saves you the trouble of germination and indoor growing, but you still must harden off the plants (explained below) to prevent transplant shock. When choosing a tomato start, pay careful attention to: Leaf Color: The foliage should be vibrant green and free of yellowing or brown spots. Signs of Disease: If the plant has any halo spots, wilting, or shriveled dead leaves, leave it at the garden store! Root Binding: Remove the seedling from its pot and check to ensure the roots are not tangled or spiraling around the container. Height: A happy tomato seedling should have a height proportionate to its container. Leggy, spindly stems indicate that the young plant didn’t have enough light. Flowers or Fruit: Contrary to popular belief, you want to avoid buying a tomato seedling that is already flowering or fruiting. This is a sign of stress and may stunt early growth after transplanting. Pests: Check the undersides of leaves to be sure there are no aphids or hornworms that might get imported into your garden. Purchase your seedlings as close to your last frost date as possible. Generally, late-season tomato seedlings are rootbound, leggy, and sickly from being in a pot for too long. Planting Once nighttime temperatures are consistently above 45°F, you can safely plant tomatoes in the garden. This is usually 1-3 weeks after your last spring frost date. If your region tends to have unpredictable springs, it’s best to cover tomato seedlings with row fabric or a cold frame to protect them during the initial few weeks of establishment. How to Grow As one of the easiest-to-grow heirlooms, ‘Cherokee Purple’ is a resilient plant that won’t fuss. As long as you provide a sturdy trellis, warm temperatures, and consistent water, you’ll be delighted by how abundantly these tomatoes yield. Maintenance Pruning is not essential, but it is beneficial. Fortunately, these heirlooms don’t send out as many suckers (side shoots) as hybrid varieties. Still, the vines benefit from weekly pruning to signal them to channel their energy into more fruit production. Suckers are aptly named because they “suck” the energy away from the pain plant. In other words, they are the tomato’s attempt to produce more vines than fruit. Use sharp, sanitized pruners to remove suckers at the “elbows” where each stem connects with the central vine. Depending on your trellis system, you may want to prune each plant so it only has one or two “leader” vines and remove the rest. When the tips of vines are young, they are pliable enough to maneuver them where you want them to go easily. Use twine or plastic tomato trellis clips to weave them upward. If you trellis your plants a little bit every week, they easily become “trained” to grow up the trellis. However, if you wait until the stems are rigid and big, it can be challenging to trellis them without snapping or bending the vines.