With the small-scale versatility and easy growing of ‘Patio Choice Yellow’ tomatoes, we’ll pluck the bright yellow rounds right from the porch in short order. The productive dwarf cherries are flavorful, colorful, and quick to mature among the group. Gardening expert Katherine Rowe explores the merits of this top-performing, compact variety for nearly effortless enjoyment this summer. With dwarf selections like ‘Patio Choice Yellow,’ there’s always room to tuck in more tomatoes. The productive fruiters on compact vines yield bright yellow rounds that are perfectly poppable right off the stem. Enjoy the sweet flavor of the sunny fruits fresh or in canning, roasting, and sauces. Sun-dry them for a tasty snack or topping. ‘Patio Choice Yellow’ lives up to its name as a fit for small spaces, easy to grow across garden scales. They suit containers in addition to raised beds and in-ground plantings. Arrange them with blooming annuals, perennials, and herbs for a potted display. Edible blooms like marigolds, calendula, and zinnia make a pretty complement. They even grow beautifully in hanging baskets; add growing space by going vertical, and keep them nearby for easy picking. ‘Patio Choice Yellow’ is an early producer, ideal for climates with short growing seasons and also for quicker tomato gratification, as other varieties continue to ripen on the vine. They’re high-yielding and disease-resistant, performing and producing even in heat and humidity. What Are ‘Patio Choice’ Tomatoes? ‘Patio Choice Yellow’ is a top dwarf or “bush” variety, able to fill a pot or small space with loads of tasty, bright yellow globes. The ‘Patio’ series features hybrids bred to have compact branching and bountiful cherry tomato production on determinate vines. ‘Patio Choice Yellow’ is an All-America Selections award winner for its productive yields, compact habit, and easy care. A big contribution to its low-maintenance is strong disease resistance. The variety resists tobacco mosaic virus, Fusarium wilt, and Verticillium wilt, all common fungal problems of the genus. The ‘Patio’ series is, by design, tailored to pots and containers. They open up food production in a variety of growing situations with ease, from balconies to sunny porches to tucking in beds and borders. Characteristics ‘Patio Choice Yellow’ is a determinate variety that reaches just 18 inches tall and 20 inches wide. In prolific clusters, a single plant produces 100 or more of the bright gold cherries. The fruits have a mild flavor, sweet with slight acidity. ‘Patio Choice Yellow’ matures early and is ready to harvest around 45 days after transplanting (65 days from sowing). The “perfect” flowers are self-pollinating and don’t rely on insects or pollen from another plant to produce fruit. Each yellow globe is one to one and a half inches across and weighs half an ounce. Cherry tomato clusters begin ripening at the stem and progress to the tips. The ripening phases stagger the harvest over a few days and create an attractive look to the plant with bunches of green, yellow, and rich gold tomatoes. They flower and ripen over about four to five weeks. As a determinate selection and a particularly compact one, ‘Patio Choice Yellow’ doesn’t require staking or caging. The bush is self-supporting, though you can insert a small stake to keep clusters and stems upright. Let the globes ripen on the vine or pick them a few days early to fully ripen indoors. Harvesting a little early keeps them from birds and prevents cracking from the sun or filling with excess water. Picking early, as they begin to show good color, won’t compromise flavor. Native Area ‘Patio Choice Yellow’ is a hybrid from Seeds By Design, a California-based distributor of specialty selections. Its wild, tropical ancestors originate in South America, with a growing range from the coast to the Andes from Ecuador to Chile. The original cherry tomato, a wild, weedy plant with little fruits, dates to Ecuador some 80,000 years ago. With cultivation, spreading, and trade, the range expanded to Central America and further into South America. Explorers from Spain brought domesticated tomatoes to Europe in the 15th and 16th centuries, but they were slow to catch on. Tomatoes are part of the nightshade family, Solanaceae, with peppers, eggplants, tobacco, and many herbaceous perennials, shrubs, and trees. Nightshades include highly toxic species, giving plant collectors pause in eating tomatoes. Planting The compact, determinate selection does best with an in-bed spacing of 12 to 15 inches apart. In containers, five gallons allows ample soil volume. Opt for five gallons or larger for mixed arrangements, like combining the dwarf tomatoes with companions. The annuals (or tender perennials in zones 10-11) are frost-sensitive and require warm air and soil temperatures for best growth. They grow easily from seed, whether started indoors or direct sown. Start seeds indoors five to six weeks before the final frost date, and transplant seedlings one to two weeks after, as nighttime temperatures are above 55°F (13°C). Direct sow as soil temperatures rise above 60°F (16°C). For the heat-loving vegetables, soils between 70-90°F (21-32°C) are optimal for germination. When feasible, nightshade members benefit from crop rotation yearly because of shared pests and diseases. For ‘Patio Choice Yellow’ in the ground, choose a spot where you haven’t grown other nightshades (eggplants, tomatillos, potatoes, peppers, and other tomatoes) in the past year for a clean plot. At planting, go a little deep with stems. Each hair on the stem has the potential to set a root. More roots mean a vigorous system for strong, stable plants with increased nutrient and water absorption for best fruiting. How to Grow ‘Patio Choice Yellow’ is easygoing as tomatoes go. The right site and cultural conditions bring the best vigor and fruiting. Plenty of sunlight, even moisture, and good air circulation are key to tomato plant health. Maintenance ‘Patio Choice Yellow’ is dense and leafy. The self-supporting bush type doesn’t need pruning. If using a small stake to hold stems and clusters upright, tie off stems every several inches as they reach their maximum of 18 inches. Mulching is a good practice to insulate roots, regulate soil temperatures, and retain moisture. Initially, hold off on mulch to let the sun warm the roots of tender seedlings. When stems inch toward their mature height, layer two to three inches of weed-free straw around the base.

Crocosmia bursts into flower in summer with fiery bloom spikes that add visual interest and draw pollinators. Gardening expert Katherine Rowe explores the zest and carefree nature of the bulbous perennials. Crocosmia brightens the border with sword leaves and blooms in bright orange, reds, and yellows. They emerge in summer among strappy leaves and flower through fall, providing nectar and pollen for bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, and other pollinators. Eye-catching in both sun and dappled shade, the old-fashioned favorites delight with easy care. With consistent moisture, crocosmia happily naturalizes (sometimes too happily). Crocosmia is vibrant in a group, offering contrast in texture and color. Here, we’ll explore how to grow these bulbous perennials for dynamic interest. What is Crocosmia? The Crocosmia genus houses about seven species, with thousands of cultivars, many of which are Royal Horticultural Society Award of Garden Merit recipients for their bold blooms and ease of growth. Their fiery trumpets enliven the border with tubular flowers on gently arching scapes. The heirlooms also make striking cut flowers in fresh florals. These low-growing perennials form clumps through spreading corms to create colonies. The spiked flowerheads appear in mid-summer for color through autumn. Related to gladiolas in the Iridaceae (iris) family, bloom spikes hold two rows of petaled trumpets in tapered sprays. The genus name derives from the Greek krokos, or “saffron,” and osme, “smell.” The flowers emit a subtle scent, intensified when dried petals, leaves, and stems steep in hot water. Crocosmia, also called montbretia, copper tips, or falling stars, make lovely groupings in borders, cottage gardens, pollinator plantings, and cutting gardens, and naturalistic arrangements. Pair them with bananas, canna, flowering ginger, and agapanthus for a tropically-inspired display. Combine them with other perennials like salvia, dahlia, coneflower, rudbeckia, and ornamental grasses for a full-color panorama. Crocosmia also offers vertical interest in containers. Characteristics The South African natives hold their blooms for a long time in reds, golds, and bicolors. Bloom sprays open from the bottom to the top with a symmetrical flare. Slender, strappy foliage is medium green with a fan of blades. Upper growth stems from underground corms, thick, starchy, bulb-like roots that can be flat or round with fibrous layers. Some species spread vigorously in their optimal growing conditions, leading them to be invasive in some areas. Crocosmia x crocosmiifora is a popular ornamental that escapes garden cultivation. Most cultivars are better behaved. Avoid planting the genus if aggressive in your region, which can displace other plants, including native species. Forming a dense mat, crocosmia is a competitor for water, sunlight, and nutrients. Thin and divide the colony to keep it from spreading out of bounds. After flowering, bright green seedpods emerge, extending the interest and providing forage for birds. In their optimal conditions, they’ll drop, scatter, and yield seedlings. With wildflower qualities, montbretia are carefree growers. Deer and rabbits mostly avoid them, and they have few pests and diseases. Hardy to USDA zone 6, they benefit from extra winter protection or lifting and storing corms in zones 5 and lower. Native Area Native to southern Africa, from Sudan to South Africa to Madasgar, Crocosmia is indigenous to provinces in southeastern Africa where they grow in moist grasslands and along streambanks. Planting Spring offers the best planting conditions with warming soils that foster quick sprouting. Start with corms or nursery potted specimens. For corms, plant them three to five inches deep with a close spacing to allow for a six-inch spread. Aim to have the slightly pointed end facing upward and the flat root end pointed down. Plant potted nursery selections anytime from spring through fall, avoiding dry spells and heatwaves that can stress new plantings. In cold climates at the lower hardiness zones, lift the bulbs for planting in the spring. The shallow-rooted specimens are easy to dig. Clean and dry the bulbs to store in a cool, dry spot over the winter. Plant them after the threat of spring’s final frost passes.

Fragrant rosemary is a staple in your culinary toolkit—and it's even better when you've harvested your own. Fresh rosemary is more flavorful and aromatic than dried, and the plant is easy to grow in your yard, kitchen garden, or even in a container on your patio. Here's how to harvest rosemary the right way, plus tips for storing and preserving this tasty herb for later use. When to Harvest Rosemary You can harvest small amounts of rosemary as needed at any time of year. Summer is also a good time to harvest rosemary to dry, freeze, or otherwise preserve, as warm weather and lots of daylight give the plant the conditions it needs to regrow. However, avoid taking more than 20 percent of the plant at any one time to avoid damaging it and hindering regrowth. Wait until plants are at least 3 years old before harvesting.1 The ideal time to harvest rosemary is in the morning, after any morning dew has evaporated but before the hottest part of the day. For the most flavor, consider harvesting rosemary when buds have formed on the plant but before the flowers have opened, as the oils are most concentrated during this time.2 Note that rosemary flowers are also edible and can be harvested along with the foliage. How to Harvest Rosemary the Right Way Wait until plants are 6 to 8 inches tall before taking your first harvest. Examine your rosemary plant and look for healthy, tender stems. Avoid cutting into woody stems. Use sterilized scissors or pruners to cut tender branches just below a leaf node. To harvest small amounts, cut stem tips—the 2 to 3 inches at the end of each branch. To harvest rosemary for drying or preserving, cut sections of softwood that are around 8 inches long. Avoid removing more than about a quarter of total plant growth at any one time. Wait for small plants to regrow what you've removed before harvesting again. 3 Tip You can support overall plant health by harvesting the tender tips of rosemary regularly. This can encourage a bushier, more compact growth habit while spurring regrowth. Wait until after the plant has flowered to do more significant annual pruning. How to Store Rosemary Here's how to store your rosemary harvest, whether you plan to add the fresh herb to recipes or preserve it for future use. Storing Fresh The best way to store freshly harvested rosemary is in the refrigerator. Wrap the sprigs loosely in a slightly damp paper towel, enclose them in a plastic bag without sealing it, and put them in your vegetable crisper. The herb can last for up to two weeks when stored properly.4 Drying Drying is an easy and hands-off way to preserve rosemary. Rinse sprigs off to remove any dust or dirt, but avoid getting clean sprigs wet. Allow any surface moisture to dry by laying out the rosemary on a clean, dry paper towel. Once dry, cut away any dead or damaged plant growth before tying herbs into loose bundles. Hang the bundles in a warm, dark, dry place with good ventilation. Avoid exposing the rosemary to sunlight, which can cause it to degrade and lose flavor and color prematurely. You can also dry rosemary sprigs in a food dehydrator or by laying the sprigs out on a screen, turning them frequently to help them dry evenly.2 Dried herbs retain their best flavor and aroma for 3 months after harvest when stored at room temperature or up to a year if stored in the freezer.5 Freezing Rinse rosemary sprigs or tips to remove dirt if needed, then allow them to dry thoroughly. Place the herb in a zipper-lock freezer bag and press out the air before sealing. Label the bag with the name of the herb and the date, then store it in the freezer for up to a year. Another option is to strip the leaves from each sprig and place them in ice cube trays. Top off with water or olive oil and freeze, then store the cubes in a zipper-lock bag in the freezer. Avoid refreezing rosemary after it thaws.