Carrots are one of the most popular vegetables in gardens around the world. But to get the perfect harvest, you need the perfect formula of soil conditions, climate, watering schedule, and more. In this article, gardening expert and farm owner Taylor Sievers examines how to plant, grow, and care for carrots in your garden. Many garden vegetables taste the best when they’re picked fresh from a backyard garden. Their taste and texture can’t compare to the vegetables that sit idle in a delivery truck or in a grocery store for sometimes weeks at a time. The carrot is one of those vegetables! The best part is that carrots are relatively desirable to grow for the home gardener due to very little incidence of disease, their long storage potential, and their ability to be grown during the cooler months of the year. It’s no wonder that this vegetable crop has been a staple in the garden for centuries! Carrots are a member of the Apiaceae family (also known as Umbelliferae), and this family also includes such herbs as parsnip, fennel, celery, cilantro, anise, angelica, and dill. Amongst the common cultivated herbs and vegetables mentioned here, there are also several “weedy” species in the Apiaceae family that you can often find growing on local roadside, one of which is believed to be the ancestor to modern-day carrots, and today is known as wild carrot or Queen Anne’s Lace. Some of these related “weedy” Apiaeceae species are not so pleasant, such as the deadly poison hemlock (Conium maculatum). If you’re looking for an easy-to-grow and easy-to-store vegetable to grow in your home garden, then I’d say carrots might be the vegetables for you. They’re high in vitamin A and fiber and have a multitude of ways that they can be preserved, stored, and used in recipes. Read on to learn more about these crisp, tasty roots and their interesting history! The History of the Carrot When you think of the modern cultivated carrot plant, what comes to mind? Instantly, images of long, tapered, orange roots with ferny foliage may surface. However, did you know that carrots weren’t originally orange? Or that carrot varieties can actually be shaped differently? Let’s dive into some carrot history to learn more about these staple vegetables. Wild Roots Domesticated carrots were believed to have originated from the wild carrot (Daucus carota), a plant that has spread throughout much of the temperate world and is known as a weed by many. Wild carrot is indigenous to Europe, North Africa, and Western Asia. Wild carrot was reportedly used as a medicinal plant in ancient Rome. It was used as an aphrodisiac and in mixtures to help prevent poisoning. A Roman army physician named Pedanius Dioscordines wrote about both wild and cultivated forms of carrots in 65 B.C. He wrote that wild carrot could ward off reptiles and act as an aphrodisiac and diuretic. The cultivated forms were reported to be more palatable but less used for medicinal purposes. Wild carrot and its relatives were repeatedly mentioned throughout history by many different names. Throughout the Dark and Medieval Ages, carrots and parsnips (Pastinaca sativa; a similar-looking root crop that looks like a white carrot) were important starchy staples for the European diet. The Cultivation of Carrots The first evidence of carrot cultivation was on the Iranian plateau in Persia in the 10th century. Carrots that were domesticated in central Asia were actually purple, yellow, and white – not orange. The wild carrot itself has a white, forked taproot. It is believed that over time selections were made that led to a single, thick taproot with few forks, and then genetic mutations occurred which gave rise to colors in the roots. Cultivated carrots would spread to Syria and then Europe around 1100. During the Arab expansion into Europe, cultivated carrots were brought to the area of Andalusia (Spain). From Spain, carrot cultivation spread into the rest of northern Europe. The first carrots that were brought over to Europe were either purple or a mutant of the purple carrot that appeared yellow. The carrots were purple because they contained high amounts of anthocyanins, a pigment compound touted today for its antioxidant properties. The yellow carrots were believed to have mutated from the purple carrots and simply lacked anthocyanins. It was said that people preferred cooking with yellow carrots because the anthocyanins in the purple carrots would stain cooking water and cookware. Modern Carrots The orange carrot that we know today was believed to have come about due to hybridizing the yellow carrots brought over from Asia with relatives like the wild carrot and other wild subspecies native to the Mediterranean region. The first cultivation of orange carrots in Europe is believed to have been in the 1500s. The Dutch led the orange carrot breeding movement and eventually developed orange carrot varieties that were notably sweeter. Meanwhile in East Asia, the carrot was being cultivated and crossed there as well. The cultivation of these two types of the same species has led to two categories of carrots: Eastern/Asiatic Anthocyanin Carrots (Daucus carota subsp. sativus var. atrorubens Alef.) – These carrots are shorter, thicker, and generally lacking in carotenoid content. They are normally purple, though some are yellow. Eastern carrots were widely cultivated in Turkey, India, Afghanistan, Egypt, and Pakistan. Western or Carotene Carrots (Daucus carota subsp. sativus var. sativus) – These carrots are long and tapered in appearance and are usually orange or red in color. Carotene carrots are believed to have come from progeny between crosses of the Eastern yellow carrot, wild carrots, and Mediterranean subspecies. Around 1530 was the first mention of the word “carrot” in English. This was borrowed from the French word “carrotte” and from the Latin “carota.” Carrots and parsnips were not clearly distinguished in English due to their similar appearances (because carrots were more yellow or white then). Both carrots and parsnips were simply called “more” or “moru” (from the word “mork,” meaning edible root). In 1609, the pilgrims brought carrots to America, where they quickly became a part of the Native American diet as well. Then, in 1788, the carrot made its way to Australia with the British. In culture and cookbooks after its introduction, the carrot was extolled for its tastiness, versatility in many recipes and dishes, and its role as a staple in the garden. The Carrot Legend During World War II, the carrot came back to the forefront of people’s minds as a campaign was led to promote the eating of carrots, which were not as scarce as other food crops at the time. The British government touted that the Royal Air Force pilots could see so well because they ate special high carotene carrots, which improved their night vision. This was a way for the government to keep quiet the fact that the RAF was using a new airborne radar system, but nevertheless, the legend that carrots can cure night blindness spread. Carrots are high in vitamin A, and a lack of vitamin A can cause night blindness. However, there’s no evidence to indicate eating a lot of carrots can significantly improve your vision to supernatural levels. Carrots in the US After making yet another comeback in the 1960s and 1970s in pre-packaged form, carrots are now regularly sold at grocery stores and farmer’s markets alike. Not only are carrots sold fresh for consumption today, but the pigments (particularly purple carrots) are used to color fruit juices, candles, and other fruit preparations. Modern carrot breeding has also led to varieties with higher carotene content. United States carrot consumption peaked in 1997 with Americans consuming 14.1 lbs per person, but this number has since dropped off to 7.71 lbs per person in 2020. California produces 85% of carrots consumed in the United States, likely due to their year-round production ability. Michigan and Texas are also important carrot-producing states today. Description of Carrot Plant Carrot plants are not so easily distinguishable from their wild relatives, like Queen Anne’s Lace. The foliage is described as ferny or feathery, reaching up to 12+ inches in height. The plant is actually a biennial (flowering in the second year), but for production purposes, the carrot is grown as an annual. A basal rosette of leaves forms during the first year, and the plant will remain like this until bolting in the second year when it sends up a flower stalk that can reach up to 3 feet tall. Temperatures must be under 50⁰F to induce flowering, and if harvesting the roots to eat then bolting is undesirable. The plant produces a large, single (ideally), fleshy taproot. Carrot roots can be short and wide or long and tapered. This depends greatly on the variety and various soil characteristics. Propagation The best way to propagate carrots is by direct seeding them into the garden or a raised bed. Starting seeds in trays or pots and then transplanting them is not recommended, because carrots have a long taproot. Plants that have this long taproot characteristic (compared to a fine, branching fibrous root system) typically do not handle transplanting very well. Carrot seeds are small, brown, and light in weight. Moisten the soil before planting and sow the seeds in rows. Cover the seeds with a ¼ inch of light, loose soil to prevent the seeds from floating or blowing away. Space your carrot rows 12 to 18 inches apart, and sow the seeds about 1 inch apart in the row. You will need to thin the seedlings so that the plants are 2 to 3 inches apart in the row after germination. Germination can take up to 3 weeks. Some growers will plant rows closer together in a bed system, and there are many special seeders for the home or market gardener sold today specifically for carrot production. When to Plant Carrots As soon as the soil temperature has reached 40⁰F, carrot seeds can be planted, even if the last estimated frost for your area has not occurred. Carrots are considered a cool-season vegetable and can be grown in either the fall or early spring. Carrots prefer soil temperatures between 55 and 75⁰F, so seeds will germinate much faster under these conditions. Carrots can be grown earlier in the season in hot desert climates. Temperatures above 80⁰F will reduce seed germination. The higher summer temperatures will reduce the growth of carrot plants and also decrease the quality of the roots by causing bitter or off-flavors. If you prefer to have successions of harvests you can plant carrots every 4 weeks until mid-summer. How to Grow Carrots When growing carrots, there are many different factors that you’ll want to get correct in order to have a bountiful harvest. You’ll need to make sure you are on a proper watering schedule, have the right soil type, fertilizers, and keep up with routine maintenance. Let’s look at the most important factors to get correct when growing carrots. Water Keep the soil evenly moist to ensure that your plants germinate and grow together. Overwatering will promote hairy roots and forking, so to keep even moisture without overwatering try mulching around your carrots to help conserve moisture. Fluctuations in moisture will cause certain root disorders, bitterness, and root cracking. Drip irrigation is a great way to keep your carrot beds moist without flooding the area. Soil When choosing a site to plant your carrots, keep in mind that carrots prefer well-drained, loose soils rich in organic matter with full sun (6+ hours of direct sunlight per day). Carrots can also be grown in partial sun (2 to 6 hours of direct sunlight per day). Soils with higher sand content will be preferred. If your soil has high clay content, consider amending with compost or growing your carrots in a raised bed. Loose soils allow for good root development. When plants first germinate, the two cotyledons (baby leaves) will be grass-like in appearance. The new leaves that emerge after the cotyledons will be more fern-like in appearance. These are considered “true” leaves. When the plant has at least 3 to 4 true leaves, you can thin out our carrot plants by simply plucking unwanted seedlings from the soil. Thin so that your carrot plants are at least 2 inches apart, and for larger varieties, you can thin seedlings so that they are up to 4 inches apart. Fertilizing Add well-rotted manure or compost in the spring or fall will help increase soil fertility. Some sources say that when your carrots are 4 inches tall you can fertilize them with high nitrogen or nitrogen-only fertilizer by applying to the side of the carrot row and watering the fertilizer into the soil. Fertilizers are typically labeled with three numbers which indicate the levels of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (N-P-K) in that particular fertilizer. An example would be 18-46-0, which would indicate that the fertilizer has 18% nitrogen, 46% phosphorus, and 0% potassium. A nitrogen-only fertilizer would be one like 34-0-0 or 21-0-0. Always follow instructions on the manufacturer’s label when applying pre-packaged organic and synthetic fertilizers. Fish emulsion is an organic fertilizer that is typically higher in nitrogen and is sold in jugs at hardware stores and gardening centers alike. Maintenance Some varieties will naturally push up out of the soil as their roots grow so that the tops will be exposed to sunlight. You can push the soil up around the exposed top so that it does not turn green. Good weed control is important because carrots do not compete well with weeds, especially in the beginning stages of growth. If you choose to cultivate between rows, make sure to keep away from plants in order that you do not damage the roots. Mulching with grass clippings, straw, or other organic materials will help to conserve soil moisture and prevent weed growth.

The Thai basil plant (Ocimum basilicum var. thyrsiflora) is an easy-to-grow culinary herb with bright green leaves, dark purple stems, and tiny, pale purple flowers. This herbaceous perennial is native to Southeast Asia. Its edible leaves are traditionally used in Southeast Asian cuisines and offer a spicy, licorice-like flavor and aroma. In the United States, Thai basil plants are hardy in zones 10-11 but are typically grown as annuals. How to Plant Thai Basil Like sweet basil, Thai basil plants are easy to grow. Start seeds indoors about six weeks before your last frost date in the spring. Plant Thai basil seedlings outdoors in late spring when soil temperatures are around 70 degrees and night temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees. Seed Thai basil about a quarter-inch deep in a spot with moist, well-drained soil and full to part sun. Plant or thin Thai basil seedlings to put about 12 inches between plants. You can also plant Thai basil seeds or seedlings in containers. Thai basil plants bloom in mid-to-late summer, depending on your region. Pinch back the tiny purple flowers to keep the plant from setting seed and encourage leaf growth. Thai Basil Plant Care Light Thai basil plants grow best in a spot that gets at least six hours of direct sun per day. In very hot climates, the plant prefers part sun; choose a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade to shield it during the hottest part of the day. Soil Plant Thai basil in rich, well-drained soil that holds moisture well. Work organic compost into the soil a few weeks before planting or add one part compost to two parts potting mix if growing in containers. Water Keep your Thai basil plant's soil consistently moist with regular watering during periods without rain. Consider dressing the soil around the plants with an organic mulch like hay or straw to help maintain soil moisture. Temperature and Humidity Thai basil prefers the warm, humid conditions of its native region. Wait until daytime temperatures are consistently above 70 degrees and night temperatures are above 50 degrees to plant seeds or starts outdoors. Temperatures below 50 degrees can stunt the plant's growth. Later in the season, harvest Thai basil before night temperatures hit 40 degrees, which can damage the leaves. Fertilizer If you plant Thai basil in rich soil, it shouldn't need any fertilizer. If you'd like to promote more vigorous growth, feed the plant with a balanced fertilizer every few weeks during the summer. This is especially beneficial when you're pinching back plants to promote growth or harvesting frequently. Types of Thai Basil There are several cultivars of Thai basil, including: 'Siam Queen' (Ocimum basilicum 'Siam Queen'): This award-winning cultivar is known for its tender, highly aromatic leaves, which retain their scent at higher cooking temperatures than other types. 'Queenette' (Ocimum basilicum 'Queenette'): Compact with long purple stems and relatively showy blossoms, this Thai basil cultivar is ideal for ornamental and culinary use. 'Thai Magic' (Ocimum basilicum 'Thai Magic'): This cultivar offers a mild, sweet flavor with dark magenta flower clusters that pop against bright green leaves. Thai Basil vs. Holy Basil Thai basil is just one of the dozens of varieties of Ocimum basilicum. It's sometimes confused with holy basil, also known as tulsi (Ocimum tenuiflorum). Depending on the cultivar, Thai basil and holy basil may have a similar minty, peppery, or licorice-like scent, but the plants are two distinct species. Both have slightly serrated leaf edges and grow tiny purple flowers, but Thai basil has dark purple stems, while holy basil has green stems. Harvesting Thai Basil Plants Harvest Thai basil by picking the upper sets of leaves from each branch, which will encourage growth. Harvesting lower on the plant can inhibit growth. Frequent harvesting, as often as every other day, will encourage more vigorous regrowth. Store Thai basil by placing the stem ends in a glass of water, then covering the glass with a clear plastic bag. Keep the glass at room temperature, as refrigeration damages basil leaves. Change the water every few days and use as needed. How to Grow Thai Basil Plants in Pots Thai basil grows well in containers. Put a single plant in a 12-inch deep pot with drainage holes and rich, loose potting mix. Use a plastic or glazed ceramic pot, as porous materials like terra cotta will let the soil dry out too quickly. Pruning Once a young Thai basil plant has six to eight sets of leaves, pinch off the top set of leaves to encourage branching and fuller growth. Do this on subsequent branches and use the leaves in recipes. Propagating Thai Basil Plants You can propagate healthy, mature Thai basil plants using stem cuttings. You'll need sharp scissors or pruners, a small glass or jar, and water. Here's how to do it: Examine the mother plant and choose a healthy-looking stem with several leaves. Make a diagonal cut about six inches from the stem tip and just below a leaf node. Remove the leaves on the lower half of the stem. Place the cutting in a jar of water so the leaf nodes are submerged. Keep the cutting in a warm place with lots of bright light. After a few weeks, you should be able to see roots growing from the stem. When the roots are at least an inch long, you can pot up the cutting and care for it as usual. How to Grow Thai Basil Plants From Seed Directly seed Thai basil a quarter-inch deep, with a few seeds every inch. Space rows about 18 inches apart. Thin seedlings to eight to 12 inches apart to give mature plants adequate airflow and room to grow. Keep soil moist. You can also start Thai basil indoors by seeding in flats or trays around six weeks before your region's last frost date. Harden off seedlings gradually for a few weeks before planting outdoors. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Watch out for plant damage from common pests like aphids, slugs, and Japanese beetles. Pick off Japanese beetles and drop them in a bucket of soapy water. Use insecticidal soap to treat aphids and diatomaceous earth or slug baits to kill slugs. Plant diseases like fusarium wilt and bacterial leaf spot can affect Thai basil plants. The best way to avoid these is by watering the soil directly to avoid getting the leaves wet.

Rosa ‘Iceberg’ brings bundles of crisp, white blooms among glossy green foliage. As a shrub or climber, they flower nonstop from early summer through frost. Explore these handsome, vigorous, effortless roses with garden expert Katherine Rowe. The Rosa genus contains over 150 species of shrub and climbing roses, with numerous cultivars in all sizes and colors. Of those, ‘Iceberg’ is a world favorite, earning the World Federation of Roses Hall of Fame designation. Its endless clusters of pure white blooms free-flower throughout the summer for a crisp, cool, abundant aesthetic. ‘Iceberg’ is a floribunda rose beloved for its beauty, vigor, and reliable performance. The sport of the shrub is an equally stunning climbing selection. Climbing ‘Iceberg’ roses add vertical appeal from near and far. Whether a tidy shrub or an easy-going climber, their easy care and robust repeat blooms enchant the landscape. What are ‘Iceberg’ Roses? ‘Iceberg’ floribunda rose bears bright white blooms throughout the summer. Clusters of semi-double rosettes free-flower in profusion. With creamy yellow centers and a light honey perfume, pollinators flock to them. The rose is out of Germany’s acclaimed Kordes Roses. Bred by Reimer Kordes in 1958, it’s a recipient of the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit for its non stop flowering and hardy stock. It thrives with a bit of neglect and is tolerant of dappled light and less-than-ideal conditions. The accolades for ‘Iceberg’ are almost as numerous as its endless blossoms. It won the National Rose Society’s Gold Medal in 1958 and World’s Favorite Rose in 1983. These floribundas make a lovely show in small groups, mixed borders, and foundation plantings. They’re ideal in cottage and cutting gardens, fragrance-themed arrangements, and large containers. The climbing ‘Iceberg’ rose grows quickly with long, pliable stems that train easily. It, too, features continual flowering, attractive foliage, and easy-care growing. The floriferous stems quickly fill large trellises, house walls, arbors, pillars, arches, and fences. Unlike other climbing vines, they don’t twine naturally. They need support, training, and tying to a sturdy structure to climb. Without upright support, the climbers grow as free-standing shrubs. Let them ramble down a slope, crawl along a wall, or make graceful, arching garden specimens. Characteristics ‘Iceberg’ roses cool the summer display with sprays of medium-sized, semi-double white flowers. These showy clusters have 15 rosettes per bundle. While primarily shades of white, petal tips may have a pale pink blush. Flowers measure three inches across and hold up to 25 petals. Yellow stamens appear as flowers open fully. The shrubs grow three to five feet tall and wide and have an upright habit. Plants have handsome, glossy foliage in medium green. Stems have few thorns. New genetically mutated shoots are called sports, and they differ from the shrubby base branches. A climbing sport on this rose can grow up to 15 feet tall. After flowering, buds develop on old wood (the previous season’s growth). Both the shrub and the sport are cold-hardy and disease-resistant. They tolerate partial shade. Native Area Floribunda roses arose from crossing a hybrid tea with a polyantha. Since floribundas are further hybrids, they’re of cultivated origin. Their ancestors date back to wild species native to Asia, particularly China. Polyanthas are rugged and vigorous growers. They produce clusters of small blooms and repeatedly blossom on upright shrub forms. Hybrid teas have lineage in old garden selections, leading to their florist-worthy pointed buds and stylized blooms. Rosa ‘Iceberg’ is a cross between R. ‘Robin Hood’ and R. ‘Virgo.’ ‘Robin Hood’ is a Pemberton-bred 1927 hybrid musk with repeat clusters of small, cherry red flowers with white centers. Joseph Pemberton is a renowned British rosarian who created the first hybrid musks. His sister introduced ‘Robin Hood’ after his death the year before. The original, ancient musk roses have roots in southern Europe and the Middle East. ‘Robin Hood’ boasts good disease resistance and shade tolerance. The strong shrubs have an upright habit and reach four to five feet tall. ‘Robin Hood’ is an easy grower and adapts to various soil types. ‘Virgo’ is a short hybrid tea rose introduced by Charles Mallerin in Meilland, France, in 1947. High-pointed buds on long stems open to scrolled double blooms in white shades. The lightly scented teas occur from summer through fall. The climbing ‘Iceberg’ came about as a sport, or genetic mutation of the floribunda, resulting in an offshoot. Breeders cultivate these offshoots for the traits of the parent plant in climbing form. Planting For good air circulation and to plan for maturity, leave ample space around the plant for air movement. Plenty of space gives roots and upper growth enough room to spread. Leave at least one foot between roses and companion plantings and three to four feet between larger plants to avoid overcrowding. If your plant is a climber, place it near a support structure like a pillar, wall, arbor, or trellis. In their second year, long canes develop. Tie these to your support structure to direct growth.