Eucalyptus mostly enters our homes as cut branches that we use to add a nice smell to our homes. In nature eucalyptus (Eucalyptus cinerea) is an evergreen tree that grows up to 60 feet high in its natural Australian environment. (It's also a favorite food of koalas.) Planted in a home garden, it stays at 6 to 10 feet tall. Eucalyptus are best planted in spring and don't require any staking or other support structure. They have a fast growth rate and can gain several feet per year. It features reddish-brown bark and silvery, blue-green leaves. The bark, leaves, and sap of eucalyptus are toxic both to humans and pets. Eucalyptus Plant Care Here are the main care requirements for growing eucalyptus: Plant in well-draining soil with full sun exposure. Plant in a location with enough space to accommodate the tree’s full height and spread. (Multiple eucalyptus trees should be spaced at least 8 feet apart). Prefers warm temperatures. Harvest mature leaves and branches later in the growing season. Light Eucalyptus likes a lot of light, so place your plant somewhere that receives at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. Likewise, eucalyptus plants grown indoors should be kept near a bright window, preferably one that faces south. Soil Eucalyptus can tolerate most soil types, but it needs soil with good drainage. For container plants, use a well-draining potting mix. A slightly acidic to neutral soil pH is best. Water Eucalyptus is somewhat drought-tolerant once it's established. However, long periods of dryness may cause it to drop leaves. A good rule of thumb is to water when you can stick your finger into the soil and feel dryness at your fingertip. Temperature and Humidity Eucalyptus prefers warm temperatures between roughly 65°F and 75°F, and it likes a moderate humidity level. It cannot survive prolonged exposure to temperatures below 50°F. So if you're growing your plant in a container, bring it indoors when you expect chilly temperatures. Fertilizer If you're growing your plant in the ground, it typically won't need fertilizer. However, container plants will deplete their nutrients more quickly. So fertilize them with a low-nitrogen houseplant fertilizer throughout the growing season, following label instructions. Types of Eucalyptus In addition to Eucalyptus cinerea, there are hundreds of other eucalyptus species. They include: Eucalyptus globulus: Known as blue gum, this species features smooth bark and is particularly adaptable to a variety of growing conditions. Eucalyptus gunnii: Commonly referred to as cider gum, this species has better cold tolerance than most other eucalyptus species. Eucalyptus platypus: Commonly called moort, this is an especially hardy species that can tolerate heavy soils, cold, and drought. Pruning Eucalyptus trees generally don’t need much pruning. However, you can prune overgrown, broken, or misshapen branches to keep the plant looking attractive. The best time to do so is in the summer, but avoid pruning during very humid weather. Pruning Tip No pruners? No problem! We've tested over 10 top-rated pruners to help you choose the right one for your comfort and personal needs—there's an option for everyone. Propagating Eucalyptus Eucalyptus trees are most commonly grown from purchased seeds or nursery plants, but they can also be propagated via cuttings. The best time to take cuttings is when a tree is between 2 and 12 months old; rooting mature stems is difficult. Aim to take your cuttings in the late summer. Here’s how to grow eucalyptus from cuttings: Fill a small pot with a 3-1 mixture of composted tree bark and perlite, and add a slow-release fertilizer. Moisten the soil. Cut a stem that’s around 5 inches long with four to eight leaves. Cut just above a leaf node. Remove the leaves on the lower half of the cutting. Dip the cut end in a rooting hormone, and then plant it in the growing medium almost up to where the leaves are. Place the container in bright, indirect light in a room that’s around 70°F. Keep the soil lightly moist. Roots should form in about a month. Once roots have formed, move the plant to a sunnier spot and space out waterings. How to Grow Eucalyptus From Seed When considering how to grow eucalyptus from seed, note that the seeds first must be chilled in the refrigerator for two months before planting. Sow them in the late winter indoors roughly 10 to 12 weeks before your area’s last projected frost date. Use a seed-starting mix in peat pots that you’ll eventually be able to plant right into the soil to avoid disturbing the roots. Sow seeds on top of the growing medium, only lightly covering them. Place the pots in a warm spot with indirect bright light, and keep the growing medium moist but never soggy by misting it. Seeds should germinate in two to three weeks. Once the seedlings are about 6 inches tall, they’re ready to go outdoors. Is This the Right Plant for You? A EUCALYPTUS PLANT IS A GOOD CHOICE IF: You want a plant that doesn't require pruning to be healthy You live in a warm, humid environment that stays above 50°F You don't have any pets (or have indoor-only pets, like cats) since this plant is toxic Potting and Repotting Eucalyptus Growing eucalyptus in a pot is a great option for gardeners who want to grow the plant outside of its hardiness zone. You can bring it indoors during winter. Eucalyptus plants don't like having their roots disturbed, so it's best to start with a large, 5-gallon container to avoid having to repot. Choose an unglazed clay or plastic pot with plenty of drainage holes. If you must repot, go with a pot 2 inches wider than the previous. Overwintering If you’re growing a container eucalyptus plant outside of its hardiness zones, you must bring it indoors to survive the winter. Do not let your plant be exposed to frost, which can damage or kill the foliage. Place it near your brightest window, preferably a southern-facing one, for the winter. Do not fertilize the plant, and slightly back off on watering. Harvesting Eucalyptus Leaves It is best to wait until late in the growing season to harvest eucalyptus. If you just want the leaves, simply snip them off with pruners or by hand. Air-dry them on a paper towel or drying screen in a cool spot out of direct sunlight. Wait until the leaves are slightly leathery or crispy, and then store them in glass jars with tightly sealed lids. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Eucalyptus plants are fairly free of any major pest or disease issues. But you might occasionally spot eucalyptus long-horned borers, especially on stressed plants. Holes in the bark, oozing sap, and foliage discoloration are signs of an infestation. Remove the infested area of the plant immediately, as insecticides are not effective against borers. Eucalyptus can be prone to leaf spots, which can appear black on the underside of the leaves and brown on the upper side; cankers; and root rot. The trees are also susceptible to heart rot, which is when the center of the tree begins to rot and decay, extending to the branches as well. Once heart rot occurs, it is impossible to save the tree as the fungus weakens and softens the inside, causing permanent damage. The tree will need to be removed. Tips for Buying In-Store Check for pests. Look underneath leaves and along the stem to make sure no critters follow you home. Avoid plants with brown spots on leaves. Read the plant label. Make sure that this plant works for you, your lifestyle, and your space. Common Problems With Eucalyptus Eucalyptus trees remain relatively healthy when in their preferred environment. However, in suboptimal conditions, they can come down with certain issues. Leaves Turning Brown Leaves turning brown on a eucalyptus tree can be a sign of too little moisture. That’s likely the issue if you notice leaves curling up or dropping as well. In that case, up your watering to keep the soil lightly moist but not soggy. Brown leaves also can be a sign of disease, especially fungal diseases. If just a small area is affected, remove that portion promptly. Or treat with an appropriate fungicide. Falling Branches Due to their prospective size and height, eucalyptus trees can become very heavy, causing their branches to fall or break.

Popping up in spring to show off their pretty bell-shaped blooms are fritillaria flowers. Learn how to grow these striking bulbs with Wendy Moulton in this comprehensive guide, and include some special flowers in your garden. From the lily family comes a special group of plants collectively called fritillaria. These plants have a specific growth pattern and bell-shaped flowers in pretty colors. Fritillarias are perennial bulbs of mostly European descent with the most intriguing pattern on the petals of flowers that hang like bells on green stems. There are around 130 varieties of these bulbs, with many sporting the iconic checkerboard pattern. Fritillarias were mentioned in Shakespeare’s works and by several botanists in 16th-century Europe. Depending on the region and species, they have many common names, such as chess flower, guinea-hen flower, lazarus bell, chequered lily, daffodil, and drooping tulip. The name fritillaria comes from the Latin ‘fritillus’, which refers to the chessboard or dice box pattern on the flowers and is also the name of a type of butterfly with a similar pattern just in orange and black or brown. What are Fritillaria? Each type of the over a hundred varieties will have specific characteristics. Still, fritillarias are spring-flowering bulbs that will die back after flowering and return the following spring. Native Area This perennial bulb covers a large area of temperate climates in Europe, Asia, and North America. Herbalist John Gerard first discovered or wrote about it in Europe as far back as 1597. Botanists recorded it as growing wild only in 1731. In some cultures, like the Chinese, it is used in traditional medicine. Characteristics Fritillarias differ greatly in size among the different species. They could be just six inches tall or tower to four feet. Like many bulbs, the leaves are linear and set in whorls up fleshy stems. They are mostly green but can also be tinged with a touch of blue. The flowers are why we all want these lovely blooms in the garden or containers. The bell-shaped, drooping flowers are sometimes patterned with the iconic checkerboard or dice box, making them magical. The colors range from maroon to yellow, orange, purple, and white. Most varieties will contain toxins in the form of steroidal alkaloids and should be handled with care. The leaves and stems can harm the skin, and ingesting the bulbs may be lethal. Varieties As discussed previously, there are over 130 varieties of fritillaria. However, there are also the popular ones that we love to grow in the garden. These are just a few of the varieties and their characteristics. Fritillaria meleagris Commonly called snake’s head fritillarias, but they are far from lethal, this very special bulb has maroon and white checkerboard-patterned flowers that will draw a crowd. The flowers are also available in white, but for sheer boldness, the maroon and white is a showstopper. One to two flowers form on stems 14-24 inches tall. This plant has the Royal Horticultural Society’s stamp of approval and boasts Garden Merit status. Fritillaria persica The Persian fritillaria has tall stems up to two to three feet and mostly purple, sometimes ivory to white, bell-shaped flowers, up to thirty on one stem. This variety from Iran, Turkey, and Cyprus grows well in a subtropical environment and is prized for its tall flower stalks. Fritillaria imperialis The crown imperial fritillaria is a crowd-pleaser and quite distinctive with its green spikey crown that sits atop long upright stems three to five feet tall. The flowers hang underneath the crown in bright colors like red and orange. They have an interesting odor that you might find off-putting, but it’s also a deterrent for pests and diseases. Fritillaria affinis The chocolate lily is a native of western North America and comes with tubular hanging cups in chocolaty colors. They form in one to five flowers on stems ranging in size from 4-48 inches. Planting Planting fritillaria bulbs is very simple, with the right instructions and the correct positioning. For the best results, carefully follow the directions provided by the bulb suppliers. Because they can be planted in full sun or partial shade, adjust watering for the different zones. Prepare the soil and set out the bulbs, leaving plenty of space between them for airflow. The larger the bulb, the deeper it needs to be positioned in the soil. For example, Fritillaria imperialis must be buried at least 11 inches to grow and flower well. Planting these bulbs will take place in the fall, around September and October.

‘Moneymaker’ tomatoes are known for their reliable production and medium, red fruits. Join farmer Briana Yablonski to learn how to plant and care for these tomatoes at home. ‘Moneymaker’ tomatoes are a great option if you want a plain red tomato that’s perfect for slicing onto sandwiches or chopping for Caprese salads. The plants produce medium-sized fruits throughout the summer, ensuring you have enough tomatoes for all your favorite recipes. Although the ‘Moneymaker’ fruits aren’t anything exciting to look at, the plants’ prolific nature helps them stand out from other varieties. The indeterminate plants produce long vines that yield large quantities of uniform-sized fruit, so you’ll enjoy lots of tomatoes even if you only grow a single plant. I’ll cover all you need to know to get the most out of this tomato. What Are ‘Moneymaker’ Tomatoes? ‘Moneymaker’ tomatoes are open-pollinated heirlooms that were extremely popular in the second half of the 20th century. They received their name thanks to their ability to produce loads of medium-sized, red fruits that could be sold on the market. Commercial growers, as well as home gardeners, grew the tomatoes. This variety can withstand high heat and humidity, so it’s especially popular in southern climates. Native Area All types of modern tomatoes, including ‘Moneymaker,’ emerged from wild Solanum plants native to South America. These plants only slightly resemble current tomatoes, with much smaller and seedier fruits. The first tomatoes arrived in Europe during the 16th century, and people began breeding them to produce new varieties. Eventually, plants that resembled modern tomato plants made their way back to the Americas, where individuals continued to cross them with each other to create new varieties. That’s how the heirloom ‘Moneymaker’ was created. Characteristics ‘Moneymaker’ tomatoes are indeterminate heirlooms with long vines. Individual vines typically grow at least six feet each growing season, and healthy plants can easily reach over eight feet. The plants produce branching stems if not pruned. The plants’ clusters of medium red fruits are between two and three inches at maturity. You can expect the first tomatoes to ripen 75 to 80 days after transplanting. Healthy plants will continue to produce new ripe fruits as the season progresses. Planting Since ‘Moneymaker’ tomato seeds germinate best in warm temperatures and take months to reach maturity, transplanting is preferred over direct seeding. You can either purchase seedlings at a nursery or start seeds indoors at home. How to Grow ‘Moneymaker’ tomatoes are warm-weather annuals that require a moderate amount of care. They’ll likely produce a few handfuls of tomatoes if you plant them and forget about them, but providing optimal care will reward you with impressive harvests that live up to this variety’s name. Maintenance ‘Moneymaker’ tomato plants can grow and produce fruit without any maintenance, but trellising and pruning the plants will keep them healthier and encourage good fruit production. If you’re growing just one or two tomato plants, a metal tomato cage is a good support option. Place one cage around each plant when it’s less than a foot tall. Just be aware that the plant will grow over the top of the cage since it’s indeterminate. Another trellising option is to use the Florida stake and weave method. This works best if you have at least four tomatoes growing in a straight row. Insert a wooden stake or t-post every three to four plants, then box in the plants by running a line of twine along either side of their stems. Add a new string every six to ten inches to help keep the plants contained. Pruning isn’t necessary, but it can help keep the plants tidier and simplify harvesting. I recommend removing lower leaves that touch the ground, at a bare minimum. You can also remove the suckers that appear between the elbow of the plant’s stems and leaves.