Winter may feel more like a month of hibernation, but it's perfectly possible to enjoy gardening and see a few green shoots well before spring rolls around. One of the best ways to do this is by propagating and growing herbs indoors. Whether you're interested in growing basil for your favorite dishes or would like the calming fragrance of lavender in your home, we spoke with two gardening experts to get their best advice on propagating herbs during winter. Meet the Expert Ren Elizabeth is the steward of a 5-acre homestead, and the author of the educational blog ecofriendlyhomestead.com, where she shares information on environmentally sustainable ways to grow food. Kim Butler is a master gardener based in Central Florida who educates others about all things urban homesteading and growing her own food and herbs. Use Softwood Cuttings First, you're going to need cuttings to get your indoor herb garden started. "For herbs like basil, thyme and oregano, I would recommend to use softwood cuttings, not hard, so that one can actually succeed at getting those plants started," says master gardener Kim Butler. The same can be said for lavender and rosemary. If you don't already have cuttings, it's better to wait for spring. "They don't propagate well from hardwood cuttings, which is usually all that's available in the winter months," says gardening expert Ren Elizabeth. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Keep Your Cuttings Warm You're not the only one who appreciates a cozy home during winter—your herb cuttings will love and thrive in this kind of environment, too. "Herbs develop roots a lot faster if they are kept around 70ºF," Elizabeth says. To maintain this temperature, she suggests using a heat mat, or putting them near your radiator or wood stove. Not only does this give your plants a better chance of survival but it cuts down on the possibility of rotting, too. Be a Mindful Propagator Some herbs are easier to grow than others, and practice makes perfect, as does knowing certain plant behaviors. Even the simplest herbs to grow can have their fair share of challenges—like mint. While you may want to move these herbs outside come springtime, Elizabeth warns against putting mint to raised beds or directly into the ground. "It really will take over and it is really difficult to stop its spread," Elizabeth says. The best way to keep herbs in check is to do your research. Invest in a Grow Light Because winter is darker and colder than spring and summer, having a little supplementary light can help support your cuttings. Propagated herbs need the energy from a light source in order to grow and thrive, just as newly planted seeds might. In order to support your plants, you can invest in true grow lights, or get creative like Elizabeth does. "I use LED shop lights that I have mounted on a metal shelving unit," she explains. "While shop lights don't emit a focused light spectrum like grow lights do, they are very affordable to buy and are energy efficient." Opt for Water Propagation There are a few different ways you can propagate plants, but Butler recommends using a water propagation method by "placing the cuttings in a clear jar at room temperature with the leaves above the water." It's a relatively simple way to get your herbs going and doesn't require any soil from the get-go. However, Elizabeth says to keep an eye out for algae growth. She's found that her water-bound cuttings are often prone to algae. "In order to keep this at a minimum, I change the water a few times a week," Elizabeth says. Add Some Honey Part of propagating and growing herbs indoors is waiting. It takes some time to see growth and get your herbs to a point where they can be planted and harvested. "I sometimes add honey to stimulate the process," Butler says. But she also adds that you shouldn't "use nutrients until they have properly established roots." Stimulate Growth with Kitchen Items Outside of store-bought rooting hormones, you can also try using aloe, cinnamon, or apple cider vinegar to stimulate growth in your plants. Keep a System Going Year-Round Winter propagation is totally doable, but it's smart to have a system and routine in place all year long to keep your plants healthy and keep an abundance of herbs coming in. "[I] regularly prune them, rotate my pots, and sometimes move them outdoors for some air, and use those cuttings to start new plants," Butler says. Elizabeth also encourages taking more cuttings than you usually would—especially for this colder season. "By giving yourself an extra cutting or two, you're countering some of the decline in rooting rate that you'll normally experience in the winter," she says. Know Specific Plants' Needs While there are some general herb care guidelines, each plant has its own needs. It's smart to read up on the specific herbs you want to propagate and grow so you know how to best care for them. For example, Elizabeth notes that oregano is hardy and "does well being propagated by division nearly year-round." Thyme, on the other hand, does best when it's layered under dirt in the soil. Knowing what different herbs like will lead to far more success when creating your own herb garden this winter.

Growing basil (Ocimum basilicum) is not difficult, as long as you know how to water it. The schedule may vary depending on your climate and whether you have it planted indoors or outside. Generally, this perennial herb does well in warm climates and thrives in full sun. However, it still likes moist, well-drained soil. "Just like an outdoor garden, every indoor growing space is unique," says Jordan Mara, founder of Mind & Soil. "Rather than having a strict watering schedule, focus on paying more attention to the foliage and soil to determine whether the plant is in need of its next watering." Here is everything you need to know about basil watering needs. Meet the Expert Jordan Mara is the founder of Mind & Soil. When to Water Basil Basil loves moist soil, so it makes sense to give the herb infrequent deep waterings instead of daily shallow watering. The reason for this approach? You want the water to penetrate at least 2 inches of soil so it won't dry out as quickly through evaporation. "Additionally, this trains the roots of the plant to search down more deeply for water, creating a larger root system," Mara says. A mature plant will likely need a good deep watering once a week, but of course this might depend on the environment, especially if the basil is planted inside. "This is because the light source is not as intense as the sun and there is generally less airflow indoors," Mara says. "As a result of a less intense light source and less wind, the soil will not dry up as quickly." For outdoor basil gardens, Mara says the best time of day to water basil that grows outside is either first thing in the morning or in evening. "Avoid watering in the middle of the day as the water will evaporate most quickly at this time and water on the leaves can result in burning from the sun," he says. Basil Water Schedule: Indoors and Outdoors Like with most plants, the frequency of watering depends on the amount of light, temperature, humidity, soil type, and potting container. The main thing to keep in mind when it comes to basil is that it likes moisture. As a rule of thumb, you want to aim to water once a week, however, if your basil is potted indoors, you may want to increase watering to every two to four days as the water may evaporate quicker. This approach also applies to basil in pots, even if it is outside. Unlike basil that grows in the ground, potted basil can dry out faster. "This is because rather than only the top of the soil being dried out by sun and wind, now all sides of the pot are being exposed to the sun and wind," Mara explains. "As such, evaporation now occurs from all directions." However, it's important to keep in mind that every environment is going to be different. Brown recommends focusing on paying attention to the actual foliage of your plant and digging down two inches into the soil rather than a fixed schedule. Light Basil loves sunlight. It grows exceptionally well when exposed to about six to eight hours of light each day. Keep in mind that even though this herb loves the sunshine, if you have direct midday sun, it may dry it out too quickly. Ideally, basil should have full morning sun that isn't too intense. If you notice that the leaves are pale green, instead of vibrant green, that means the herb may not be getting enough light. If your potted basil is indoors, move it to a sunnier location. Temperature and Humidity Very warm temperatures are quite hospitable to basil. You will have a full plant when the temperatures range between 80 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature goes above 95 degrees Fahrenheit, the plant may undergo stress and the leaves may dry out. In that case, increase the watering frequency and create artificial shade. If the temperature drops to around 50 degrees Fahrenheit, the basil will not do well and the leaves may blacken. Anything below 45 degrees Fahrenheit is likely to harm your herb. When it comes to humidity, basil will thrive when the levels are somewhere between 40 and 60 percent. Indoor humidity is typically around 30 and 60 percent, so your window sill planters of herbs should do just fine. Soil Type Basil does well in well-draining soil. You can purchase vegetable and herb potting mix for both your planters and garden beds. If you have your soil tested for pH levels, basil will grow well in the 6.0 to 7.5 range. Potting Container Basil loves well-draining soil, so make sure that if you are using a planter, it has well-draining holes. You do not want the basil roots to sit in water. Also, make sure that your potting container has ample space for roots, a large pot that is at least 9 inches deep and 12 inches wide is a good start. Basil does especially well in raised beds or containers because both offer drainage and a welcoming environment that retains heat. This is particularly helpful in the spring when the plant is establishing. How Basil Plants Hold Water Basil is a humidity-loving plant and can absorb moisture through its leaves. This means you can mist the herb, in addition to providing it with plenty of water. The plant uses its roots to drink up water, but too much water around the roots can cause them to rot. For deep watering, Mara suggests the following: use a watering can or the shower setting on your hose and begin watering the soil all around where the stem enters the ground. If possible, avoid watering the leaves and only water the foliage. Once the water begins to pool, move on to your other plants and return to the basil plant after two to three minutes. Dig down 2 inches again to check and see if it's moist. If it is, you're all finished. However, if it is not moist 2 inches down, do a second round of watering. Repeat this process until the soil is moist 2 inches below the surface. Signs Your Basil Plant Is Underwatered Sad, sagging leaves are a sign that basil needs more water. If the plant is wilting, find a watering can pronto. You should also look at the soil level, if it is dry at the two inches level, it is time to water, Mara recommends. Here is what you should look for. Wilting leaves Sagging and drooping stems Dry soil at the base of the plant Remember, basil needs at least 1 inch of water every week to stay healthy and thrive. Signs Your Basil Plant Is Overwatered According to Mara, if your basil plant's leaves start to show brown or black spots, it is a sign that you are overwatering. Keep an eye out for the following. Brown spots Wilting stems Yellow leaves at the base of the plant Foul soil smell (a sign of root rot) Note that brown spots on leaves could also mean that the environment is too cold for the basil. (You'll also see this happen in the fridge if the temperature is too low). Store herbs in a crisper or in the front of the fridge if this is the case.

If you aren’t already growing woodland pinkroot, consider adding it to your collection. This jewel box of color draws hummingbirds and shines in the landscape with abundant stalks of trumpet blooms with starry centers. Join gardening expert Katherine Rowe in exploring Spigelia - it may be your next favorite native perennial! Spigelia is one of those perennials that’s the total package: showy blooms, pollinator resources, easy growing, and little to no maintenance. It’s also a U.S. native from the southeast and an adaptable grower with versatile applications. Underutilized, Spigelia, or woodland pinkroot, brings lively color to the spring and early summer display with a sweep of red and yellow trumpets. Its ecological benefits and aesthetic appeal make it a prime addition to the partially shaded border. Eye-catching and compact, the abundant blooms bring delight to hummingbirds, butterflies, and gardeners alike. Whether the straight species or its robust-blooming selections, we should explore pinkroot for our gardens. It earns its keep as a long-lived, easy bloomer. What is Spigelia? Spigelia marilandica is an herbaceous native perennial that blooms in mid-spring with sporadic flowering throughout the summer. The clumping, well-behaved, non-aggressive wildflower improves each year as roots strengthen and stems and blooms increase. Classified as a threatened species in some areas, Spigelia is perhaps more popular in Europe than in its native homeland, according to plantsman Tony Avent of Plant Delights Nursery, who introduced high-performing selections of the species. But, its popularity is on the rise as gardeners discover and delight in these selections. Pinkroot draws hummingbirds and pollinators from near and far with flowers that advertise their nectar and pollen. Arrange them in groups or en masse for a drift of the colorful wands. Pair them with hosta, columbine, phlox, baptisia, bluebells, and penstemon for an early summer show. Perfect as a specimen in the perennial border, pinkroot is at home in woodland, native, wildflower, pollinator, rock gardens, and cottage arrangements. They also make excellent cut flowers in fresh florals. Fire-resistant and drought-resistant, the perennial grows across varying conditions. Other species not in cultivation include S. gentianoides, or purpleflower pinkroot, native to Alabama and smaller in form with loads of soft lilac flowers. The species is federally endangered. S. texana, Texas pinkroot, is a white-flowering species listed as vulnerable by the state, and prairie pinkroot, S. hedyotidea, is uncommon in parts of north central Texas. Florida pinkroot, S. loganioides, is rare and endangered, with white to pale pink blooms. Characteristics Quick-growing in the spring, Spigelia forms a clump of upright stems topped with red, tubular blooms. The flowers face upward to reveal a starry, five-petaled yellow center. The trumpet blooms are two inches long and appear in clusters on one side of the stem, opening from the bottom up. When deadheaded and in favorable conditions, they bloom sporadically into August. After flowering, seed capsules emerge, and in optimal conditions, they burst (dehisce) and scatter to yield seedlings. Tidy foliage is fresh in glossy, medium green, and the wedge-shaped leaves reach up to four inches long. Spigelia is a member of the Loganiaceae (Logania) family, which houses notoriously poisonous species that contain strychnine. While pinkroot has an ethnobotanical history, it is toxic if ingested in quantity and contains the alkaloid spigiline. These wildflowers are carefree growers. They enter winter dormancy after fall’s hard freezes to reemerge in spring. Native Area S. marilandica originates in the southeastern United States, ranging from New Jersey down to Florida and west from Illinois south to Texas. The woodland growers occur on forested slopes, in moist woods, and on stream banks. They now occur in more isolated areas due to habitat loss. With hardiness across USDA zones 5 through 9, the perennials bear good heat and cold tolerance. Planting The dense wildflowers form clumps and reseed to expand the colony, though they aren’t vigorous spreaders. When planting, space them at least 12 to 18 inches apart to allow room to spread. They reach one to two feet wide at maturity.