Ornamental peppers produce brilliantly colored fruit and look fantastic in garden spaces. While they are grown to be ornamental, they can also be eaten. In this comprehensive growing guide, Sarah Jay explains how to care for them. Ornamental peppers provide more than just eye candy. They’re also packed full of spice. While they aren’t the most pleasant or flavorful peppers, they provide a punch in any dish. So consider growing ornamental pepper plants this spring! Once you plant ornamental peppers, you can practically ignore them and they will thrive. Growing ornamental peppers, therefore, is an easy and rewarding experience. While you focus on the higher maintenance plants in your vegetable garden, your ornamental peppers pop with color. Whether it’s hot pepper flakes you’d like to include in a dish, or simply a splash of color with some heat, the colorful fruit of an ornamental pepper plant provides. If eating the fruit of the pepper plants isn’t your style, know they’re great in pest deterrent sprays and landscapes. So, let’s discuss growing ornamental peppers, and cover a few different types you can seek out for your spring planting. What are Ornamental Peppers? The ornamental pepper plant (Capsicum annuum) has many different varieties and, thus, multiple common names. Ornamental pepper plants are tender perennials often grown as annuals. Native Area Most ornamental peppers originate in southern North America, the Caribbean, and northern South America. Ornamental peppers made their way to Europe in the 15th century and were prized as showy, colorful garden plants. Today, they’re known as Christmas plants due to their bright fruit that makes them an excellent addition to floral arrangements and as a bedding plant in ornate landscapes. They’re also great container plants. Whether you want to eat them or not, they’re sure to be a hit. Characteristics The ornamental pepper is a dense, round shrub with alternate, ovate dark purple to deep green leaves. It’s a bushier plant with green branches that reach anywhere from six inches to three feet tall and spread eight to twenty-four inches wide. The compact plants bloom inconspicuous off-white flowers – sometimes with a purple tint – that require pollination either by hand or from bumblebees. The flowers bloom in the late spring, and with successful pollination, peppers form within four months. They resemble Christmas lights in an upright position. Pepper colors range from bright red, yellow, orange, green, or deep purple. The root ball of ornamental pepper is small and shallow. As the weather cools in early fall, ornamental peppers stop producing, and they die back in frost. Those not exposed to frost will survive throughout the year. Most people grow ornamental peppers for non-culinary reasons, but they work very well in bean dishes, salsas, and hot sauces. Anywhere you need an extra kick, these peppers deliver. Some people are unpleasantly surprised when they take a pepper off the ornamental plants and take a bite. That’s because there’s more punch than flavor involved when you eat ornamental peppers. Varieties ‘Chilly Chili’ peppers ‘Chilly Chili’ peppers grow on a dense plant with green leaves that reach one foot tall and spread six to ten inches wide. The plant produces upright, slender red, orange, and yellow fruit that, at their hottest, have the same amount of spice as a poblano. This chili plant grows well in prepared ground or containers. ‘Prairie Fire’ peppers ‘Prairie Fire’ pepper plants are great for hanging baskets, containers, or the ground due to their low-lying nature. They’ll fit into almost any landscape at a height of eight inches and a spread of one foot. The densely arranged dark green leaves are punctuated by stout red, yellow, orange, purple, and cream-colored peppers. If you want to use them in the kitchen, know they are just as spicy as Thai peppers and ten times the heat of jalapenos. ‘Bolivian Rainbow’ peppers ‘Bolivian Rainbow’ peppers are just as lovely as the name suggests. They’re taller than the previous ornamental peppers we’ve mentioned, which are two feet tall. The slender leaves are accented by Christmas light-shaped peppers that are purple, bright red, orange, and yellow. These have a cayenne-level heat. ‘Black Pearl’ peppers ‘Black Pearl’ peppers grow on a plant with dark green leaves that is 18 inches wide and tall. The fruit is the origin of the common name for this pepper plant, as it turns from a bright red to a deep, almost black purple. Black pearl peppers also pack cayenne-level heat and add a touch of spicy darkness to a garden or a dish. ‘Medusa’ peppers ‘Medusa’ ornamental peppers are very small and make excellent bedding plants or container plantings. They reach a mere six to eight inches tall, and have peppers that are ivory white when they first form, then deepen to a yellow, orange, and finally bright red. These peppers are great for children’s gardens because they don’t pack nearly the same punch as the others we’ve mentioned. ‘Numex Easter’ peppers ‘Numex Easter’ peppers are lovely and produce fruits that cluster together in fours. Pepper colors range from white to pale yellow, light purple, orange, and red. The leaves are dark green and sit atop stems that reach eight inches high and spread ten inches wide. They’re lovely in hanging baskets and container plantings and pack a pretty hefty heat. ‘Sangria’ peppers ‘Sangria’ peppers are lovely vibrant specimens that grow red peppers that turn reddish-purple late in the season. The ‘Sangria’ plant type grows peppers bred for their intensely colored fruit, and their hues pop out among the deep green foliage. The height and spread of these plants are 16 and 18 inches, respectively. ‘Sangria’ plants have hot peppers that are about the same heat as cayenne. And Sangria is great indoors, outdoors, in the ground, or in containers. Planting To grow ornamental peppers, plant seeds in well-drained soil enriched with organic matter. They prefer warmer temperatures and a sunny location. Regular watering is crucial, but avoid overwatering to prevent root rot. Once established, the plants are relatively drought-tolerant. How to Grow Once you’ve chosen your preferred plant, it’s time to focus on growing ornamental peppers. Here are the basic tenets of working with these lovely plants. Maintenance The only reason to prune ornamental peppers is to attain the desired shape and remove diseased or damaged leaves. You can never trim flowering stems, but feel free to trim stems after they grow to six to eight inches to promote a bushier appearance. The increase in leaves will also assist in producing healthier fruit. If you plan to overwinter the plant, cut it a few inches above the ground in late fall. Then cover it with mulch to retain moisture in dormancy.

Cilantro, unlike many other herbs, is best used fresh. If you regularly cook with cilantro, you know that keeping a supply of it on hand can be tricky because cilantro is a delicate herb. A bunch of cilantro bought at the grocery store, even if stored properly in water in the fridge, starts looking rather sad after a few days. Fortunately, there is a way to extend the life of the cilantro you buy at the grocery store—by propagating it. You can either grow more cilantro leaves (which does not require pots and potting soil) or take it one step further and create new cilantro plants from the stems. Here’s how to propagate cilantro so you never have to run to the grocery store for it again. How to Propagate Cilantro in Water Separate the cilantro bunch and sort out any weak stems (use those for cooking). For each strong stem, cut all the outer leaves except the center leaves with clean, disinfected scissors. If there are tiny leaves growing from the center of the stem, leave them intact. Put the stems in a clean jar and add two to three inches of room-temperature tap water—just enough so that the base of the stems is immersed in water. Place the jar in a place with bright, indirect light where the temperature is around 60-70°F. Change the water every day or two. Leaf growth should start after a few days. Harvest the new leaves as desired using sharp scissors. Chances of Dulled Flavor As easy and convenient as it is, cilantro that is propagated in water will produce fresh leaves for you to harvest but it won’t grow as vigorously as when it is planted in soil. The taste of the leaves also tends to be weaker and not as aromatic as cilantro grown in a proper growing medium. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Cilantro Propagation Tips Picking cilantro: Only use cilantro that looks healthy and is as fresh as possible. Look for cilantro that still has some of the white roots attached—the more roots that are on each stem, the better. Don’t use stems that are wilted or have any signs of disease such as spotting. Keeping it clean: To avoid bacterial growth, keep the jar and the water clean. It is also a good idea to sanitize the scissors by wiping them with rubbing alcohol. Safety precautions: If your tap water is chlorinated, let it sit for a day to allow the chlorine to evaporate before using. Preventative care: Do not immerse the cuttings in water—they will rot. Only the base of the stems should be under water, never the leaves. Signs of problems: Slime forming around the stems or roots is a sign of bacteria. Change the water immediately and rinse the stems and roots under running water. If the problem persists, start again with fresh cilantro. Signs of exhaustion: If leaf growth weakens or stops after a few weeks, the stems have given their all. Discard them and start with a fresh bunch of cilantro. Signs of vitality: However, if the stems have developed lots of roots about 1 inch in length, you can extend the life of your cilantro even further by planting it in a pot filled with well-draining all-purpose potting mix. Best placement: Cilantro needs light to grow but avoid harsh, direct sunlight. If your kitchen gets strong midday or afternoon sun, place the jar a couple of feet away from the window. Best temperature: Keep the jar away from heat sources. Cilantro grows best in temperatures between 50-85°F. Why Propagate Cilantro in Water? Propagating cilantro in water saves you a trip to the grocery store, especially if you only need a small amount of cilantro at any given time, which is what many recipes call for. The method is easy, cheap, and requires virtually no equipment or tools. Even for seasoned gardeners, it’s an attractive way to get their hands on fresh cilantro when it’s too cold to grow it outside. Propagation of stem cuttings in water is also much faster than starting cilantro from seed, which takes 40 to 70 days.

Tasty, tropical guava is easy to grow in the ground and containers. Gardening expert Melissa Strauss shares how to care for this farmer's market favorite's, delicious ‘Thai White’ variety. A long-lived tropical tree that produces delicious, nutritious fruits, guava is easy to grow and care for. Plant this guava right in the garden in warm climates, and in cooler climates, opt for a large container. Let’s look at the ‘Thai White’ variety that produces delicious fruits that are extra high in fiber and immune-boosting vitamin C. What Is It? ‘Thai White’ guava is a lightly sweet and refreshing fruit. Typically, it’s consumed raw and unripe, sometimes dipped in chili, salt, sugar, or a combination of all three. It’s a tough small tree that makes an attractive addition to the landscape, though it won’t grow in the ground outside of zones 9-11. Outside this climate, it makes a nice container or patio plant. Guavas were in cultivation as many as 5,000 years ago in Peru. Spanish and Portuguese explorers imported the species to Florida and Europe. Eventually, they traveled across the continent with their delicious discovery, distributing it to Asia and India. Legend follows that the fruits of the guava tree were once inedible. A young boy, wanting to feed a hungry beggar, prayed for the gods to make the fruit edible. The gods obliged the boy, impressed with his kindness and compassion, giving the fruit a sweet, tangy, tart flavor we now love. Characteristics ‘Thai White’ is a mid-sized, evergreen fruit tree that will grow to about 15′-20′ left to its own devices. You can prune it to keep it to a more manageable size, making it easier to harvest the round, green fruits. The fruit is green with white flesh and has higher sugar, vitamin C, and fiber content than a pink guava. It also tends to have more seeds, lending to its more fibrous texture. The entire fruit, including the peel, is edible. According to the National Library of Medicine, the fruit, eaten with the peel is, very healthy. It can lower blood glucose levels and triglycerides, making it a great addition to a healthy diet. The plant is attractive and fits well into a tropical landscape. It usually has one or two central trunks and a many-branched, umbrella-like canopy. The leaves are broad, medium green, and have prominent veining. Native Area Guavas are native to Central and South America and the Caribbean. Portuguese travelers brought the white guava to Asia in the 17th century, where it became a popular fruit to grow and eat. The Thai people refer to the fruit as farang, which denotes a foreign person of white race. Planting Spring and early summer are the best times to plant your ‘Thai White’ guava. The plant is in an active growth phase at this time and will establish quickly. If you want to grow it in a container, it’s fine to re-pot it any time of year. It will need to come indoors when the temperature drops below freezing. This tree is invasive in certain areas of North America. In these areas, grow in a container. Loose soil will help this tree to develop strong roots. Dig a hole three times as deep and wide as the root ball to loosen the soil. This may seem like a lot, but it is ideal for root development. Backfill the hole to the depth of the root ball and position it so that the root ball is level with the surrounding earth. You won’t usually need to amend the soil, so simply backfill, tamp down the soil, and water deeply. The roots of the guava can be extensive, growing beyond the drop line. For this reason, plant it a fair distance away from your home, structures, or concrete slabs.