Have you ever wanted to grow tender white asparagus in your garden? Growing these albino spears is easy with just a few simple steps. In this article, plant expert Matt Dursum shows you how to plant, grow, and care for white asparagus. If you’ve ever tasted white asparagus spears, you probably know why they’ve become a culinary craze. They have a delicate, nutty flavor and refreshing texture. Like green asparagus, they’re also packed with nutrients. What you may not know is that these unique looking vegetables are from the same plant as their green lookalikes. In fact, you can grow white asparagus in your garden by changing one simple process. Read on below to learn how to plant, grow, and care for this novelty type of asparagus. Soon, you’ll harvest bountiful white spears at home without paying extra at the market. What Is It? White asparagus is essentially the same plant as the regular green varieties. To get its appearance, farmers cover its spears with soil to prevent photosynthesis, a process called etiolation. As the spears grow, they cannot produce chlorophyll, which is the pigment in plants that makes them green. All asparagus are dioecious plants. This means that each plant has either male and female flowers. The white varieties you find at the grocery store and market are most likely the male spears due to their productivity. Characteristics In the garden, white asparagus will eventually turn green once exposed to sunlight. Male spears will grow to be larger than the female spears. When they mature, they produce beautiful bell-shaped flowers ranging from yellow to white. There are tons of varieties and hybrids to choose from. You can produce delicious and tender white spears from any type of asparagus. Some are more disease resistant and flavorful than others. Below are some common varieties to choose from. Native Area These perennial vegetables evolved in Europe, North Africa, Western Asia, and the Middle East. Asparagus developed a deep taproot system to survive various climates. It was first cultivated around 2,000 years ago in ancient Greece, Egypt, and the Mediterranean basin. The ancient Greeks thought it was an aphrodisiac while the Romans used it as a main course for their legions. In its native habitat, it flourished in sandy soils and mountainous terrain. In places such as the Middle East, it evolved in arid soils and developed a tolerance to drought conditions. White asparagus was first cultivated in Europe in the 17th century. It was a popular dish in French aristocratic households. Today, it usually costs more than green asparagus. Chefs and foodies tend to agree that its sweeter and richer taste and delicate texture are worth the hype. Planting Asparagus is a perennial that grows best in well-drained soil and full sun. It should go in the ground in early spring. Once it establishes itself in the soil, it will give you a bountiful harvest for 20 years or more. The location you plant your seedlings or crowns is very important. You want well-drained soil with plenty of nutrients and direct sunlight. It should be deep and porous, with no barriers for the taproots. Personally, I’ve always grown my plants in tall raised beds like this one. They bring the plants closer to eye level. When you’re producing white spears, it makes it easier to keep an eye on the spear as they grow. How to Grow White asparagus is relatively easy to grow, as long as you have the right location, lots of light, and enough soil to keep the spears covered. As the spears get larger, the trick is to keep covering them with soil so they never see the sun. Harvest them just before the heads of the spears appear to open up. Alternatively, you can cover your plants with black plastic or cloth while their spears grow. This will also block the sunlight and keep the spears white and tender. Maintenance Use disinfected pruners to harvest the spears in late spring or early summer, two years after planting your crowns. Let a few grow into mature flowering stalks. When your plants turn brown, they’re storing energy in their roots for their winter dormancy period. During this time, use your clean clippers to remove the brown stalks and compost them. Add another layer of mulch and fertilizer. After winter, just make sure your garden bed is weed free and you should have another bountiful harvest the following year.

Thinking of growing tomatillo in your garden this season but aren't sure where to start? Tomatillo is an amazing vegetable to add to any garden! They are easy to grow, and can compliment many other veggies in your garden. In this article, organic gardening expert Logan Hailey walks through how to grow and care for tomatillo in your vegetable garden, step by step! An essential ingredient in salsa verde and southwestern chili, tomatillos are tomatoes’ tart, more acidic cousin. Though their name technically means “little tomato” in Spanish, tomatillos are a different plant entirely. They are also remarkably vigorous, disease-resistant, drought-tolerant, and more distinctly flavored than their tomato counterparts. In early summer, the chartreuse husks of tomatillos dangle like little lanterns waiting to be filled with ripened, tropical-flavored fruits. These plum-shaped nightshades are native to Mexico and also go by the names “Mexican husk tomato”, miltomate, “mexican ground cherry” or the Latin names, ​​Physalis philadelphica and Physalis ixocarpa. If you’ve been wanting to add some diversity to your summer garden and enjoy the bold flavors of a zesty salsa verde, tomatillos are remarkably easy to grow and harvest! Let’s dig into planting, growing, and caring for these unique husk-covered temperate fruits. History and Cultivation Tomatillos are tomato relatives with a whole host of culinary uses and health benefits. Their husked green fruits are a pleasure to grow, harvest, preserve, and eat! Modern breeding efforts have generated incredibly vigorous varieties that are easy to grow and generous with their yields. Let’s explore the fascinating cultural and botanical background of the noble “husk tomato”! What Are Tomatillos? Tomatillos (Physalis ixocarpa) are annual nightshade-family plants that bear small, tart, plum-shaped fruits wrapped in husks. These frost-sensitive plants grow on farms and in the wild throughout the tropics. In temperate gardens, they are planted in late spring or early summer for warm season harvests. The tomatillo plant can be upright like a tomato (especially with the help of trellising) or it can vine and sprawl low to the ground (hence the name of the closely related, small-fruited “ground cherry”, Physalis philadelphica). The stems are slightly hairy and the leaves are ovate with jagged edges. When tomatillos flower, their distinct yellow blossoms have five fused petals and darker spots in the center. The plants need pollen from a neighboring plant to produce their tart fruits. You will notice the bright green husks forming first, and then the tiny fruit- technically a berry- begins to grow inside. Only the fruit is edible and the rest of the plant parts are considered mildly poisonous. Tomatillos are usually about 2-3 inches in diameter. They can be eaten raw or cooked, and are often included in traditional jams, chutneys, salsas, soups, and stews. Where Did They Originate? Most infamous for their inclusion in salsa verde recipes, tomatillos have been used in Mexican, Guatemalan, and other Meso-American cuisine for millenia. They were probably first domesticated by Azetc or Mayan farmers around 800 BC, but may have been collected from the wild for a long time before that. The word “tomatillo” comes from the nahuatl word tomatl. In Guatemala, it is called miltomate. Scientists at Penn State recently uncovered a pair of fossilized wild tomatillos over 52 million years old! That means tomatillos were growing at the same time when giant ancestral rhinoceroses and 8 foot tall carnivorous birds were roaming Meso-America. After their excavation in Argentina, these ancient lantern fruits completely changed the botanical world’s understanding of the nightshade plant family’s origins. Propagation Like most nightshades, tomatillos are predominately propagated by seed. Their flattened round seeds are reminiscent of yellow lentils and handled similarly to tomato seeds. When to Seed Tomatillos Most tomatillo varieties take 60-80 days to mature. You can start tomatillo seeds indoors 6 to 10 weeks before the expected last frost date for your region. This will prepare them to be planted out around the same time as you transplant their cousins, bell peppers, eggplant, and tomatoes. If you would like to directly sow tomatillo seeds in the garden, wait until outdoor nighttime temperatures are consistently above 55°F, typically in late spring or early summer at least 2-3 weeks after the final frost date. How to Propagate Tomatillos These seeds are easy to germinate and tend, but if you don’t have a seed-starting setup, tomatillo plant starts are also widely available. Keep in mind that unique varieties of purple or yellow-orange tomatillos may be difficult to find as nursery starts and need to be seeded in your home nursery or directly-sown in your garden. Filling Seed Starting Trays Prepare 6-packs or 4” pots with a quality, well-drained seed starting mix that is rich in organic matter. Don’t pack the medium into the cell too densley. Use your finger to make a small shallow imprint in the center of the cell about ¼” deep. Decide How Many Seeds To Plant Tomatillo plants produce impressively huge yields, so you don’t usually need to plant many of them (unless you really love salsa verde and plan to preserve massive amounts of it). These fruits are much higher yielding than their tomato relatives. For a small family who likes salsa verde, I would recommend planting just 1 to 2 tomatillo plants per person. However, you may want to start double this amount of seeds to have backup or replacement plants in case anything goes wrong. Remember that you need at least 2 plants in your garden to ensure proper pollination (tomatillos have self-incompatible pollen and need a neighboring plant to actually produce fruit). Tomatillo seeds usually stay viable for 3 years under proper storage conditions (cool and dry in their seed packets). Sowing Seeds Sow tomatillo seeds ⅛” to ¼” deep at a rate of 1-2 seeds per hole. Lightly cover with a thin layer of potting mix or vermiculite and gently water in. Keep the seeds consistently moist and warm until germination. Water, Warmth, Thinning, and Tending Tomatillos love a warm, cozy environment. A heating mat will speed up germination and promote even sprouting amongst your seedlings. Tomatillo seeds take 7-14 days to germinate and prefer temperatures between 75 and 95°F. Once they grow their first true lives, be sure to thin plants to 1 per cell. Grow the baby tomatillos for 6-8 weeks until they have robust root balls and the weather has thoroughly settled out in your garden. Planting Tomatillos If you’ve ever planted tomatoes, it will be very easy for you to plant and grow tomatillos as well. The process is almost identical and can be done at the same time as your other Solanaceous crops (eggplant, peppers, and tomatoes). When to Transplant Tomatillos Tomatillos are extremely frost-sensitive and shouldn’t be put out in the garden until night temperatures are reliably over 55°F. The ideal soil temperature in the garden is between 70 and 80°F. This is typically 2-3 weeks after the last frost of the spring, often between March and May in many parts of the United States. Due to their cold sensitivity, tomatillos are best planted about 2 weeks after your early tomatoes. The tomatillo seedlings should be at least 4-6” tall and have strong root balls before planting. Check that the plants have ample amounts of healthy, green leaves and any early flowers pinched off before transplanting. Flowers that grow on baby plants are often a sign of stress and should be removed to allow the plant to channel its energy into root and shoot establishment. Tomatillo Spacing Tomatillo plants can grow quite large and sprawl about. The full-grown plants grow 3-4 feet tall and spread 2-3 feet wide or more. Trellis or No Trellis? If you’re growing with a trellis, plant tomatillos about 24” apart in rows 1-2 feet apart. You can use classic tomato cages, stakes with string, or the “Florida Weave” method. You can also let tomatillos ramble up cattle panels or fencing. If you plan to let tomatillos sprawl along the ground, plant them 36-48” apart in rows 2-3 feet apart. Keep in mind that harvesting takes a bit more time when they aren’t trellised. Plant Deep Like tomatoes, tomatillos are eager to root all along their stems as they establish. This is called adventitious rooting, or the ability of plants to develop roots from any tissue (such as from their stems). This creates resilient, durable plants with deep root zones for scouring water during drought and holding strong in windy conditions. To get the most out of your tomatillos’ adventitious rooting preferences, plant the seedlings deep into the soil. Depending on the size of the start, you can even remove some of the lower leaves as long as there are 3-4 pairs of healthy leaves left above the surface. How to Transplant Tomatillos Prepare rich loam garden soil just like you would for the majority of your vegetables. Consider adding a generous helping of quality organic compost. Use a broadfork or digging fork to loosen the lower layers and ensure good drainage. Be sure the area is weeded and raked smooth. Hardening Off Before transplanting, ensure that you’ve properly hardened off your baby tomatillos. These nightshades are very cold-sensitive and need 1-2 weeks to adjust to outdoor temperature fluctuation. I prefer to harden them off along with my pepper plants by placing them in a protected area of the patio where they still receive plenty of light. A layer of lightweight garden fabric (row cover) can help keep them cozy at night while still getting them adjusted to the world outside the nursery. Measure, Dibble, and Tuck When you’re finally ready to get these babies in the ground, lay out a measuring tape to mark out your spacing. Use a hori garden knife or a shovel to prepare holes that are 1.5 to 2 times larger than the size of the root ball. Grasp the seedling by its base and gently wiggle it out from its cell. Place the baby tomatillo in the hole and backfill. There is no need to press down or compress the soil, as tomatillos prefer a loose soil with excellent drainage. Water in tomatillos thoroughly to help with establishment. These can be quite drought tolerant plants, but they need consistent moisture in the beginning to get established and prevent blossom end rot. Sporadic watering may lead to issues with the fruiting. At the same time, a soggy soil will lead to very slow-growing, even wilty or diseased tomatillos. Consider using drip irrigation or soaker hoses to keep the beds moderately moist. How to Grow Tomatillos When growing tomatillos, it’s important to cover all your bases. You want to make sure you plant them where they will get adequate light, water, the right type of soil, and the right type of fertilizer. You’ll also want to take companion planting with tomatillos into your thought process if you plan on growing them with other plants. Let’s take a look at each step in more detail.

Dioscorea japonica is a fascinating species of Japanese mountain yam often referred to as yamaimo. This edible tuber is also considered a mountain medicine. Expert Sarah Jay explain its care and growing habits. One interesting wild yam species is Dioscorea japonica, also known as yamaimo. It’s a Japanese wild yam with high value in Japanese cuisine. Similar to the Chinese yam, it’s known as the Japanese cinnamon vine, distinguishing it from the Chinese cinnamon vine. Their common names are often used interchangeably. It stands out among other yam species because it’s one of the few that’s eaten raw. It’s also cold-hardy, differentiating it from Chinese yam, or cinnamon vine. They are both members of the true yam Dioscoreaceae family, in the genus Dioscorea and they both grow into multiple feet-long tubers. Yamaimo is native to the mountains of Japan but takes off in North America. Most of the problems people have with this glutinous yam is controlling it. Its Chinese relative is an invasive species in certain parts of the United States, and also requires maintenance. But you can grow yamaimo at home. What is Dioscorea Japonica? Yamaimo (Dioscorea japonica) is an edible vine commonly referred to as mountain yam, Japanese yam, East Asian mountain yam, Jinenjo, shan yao, nagaimo, and Japanese cinnamon vine. In Korean it is known as cham ma and dang ma. Native Area Dioscorea japonica is native to Japan, Korea, China, Taiwan, and Assam. It grows wild in the mountains of its native Japan, where there is a tradition of growing both the Japanese yam and the Chinese cinnamon vine. There, it is called yamaimo – literally Japanese yam. This plant is classed as an invasive species in southeastern regions of North America. If you live in one of these areas, opt for growing a different yam. Characteristics The most striking part of yamaimo is its long white tuber. Usually buried one to three feet underground, they reach one to three feet long. They are speckled with a tan to whitish skin. A single perennial climbing vine grows from each wild yam that reaches ten feet tall. The vine’s leaves are elongated and look like other heart-shaped sweet potato leaves. Yamaimo is dioecious and requires cross-pollination for the reproduction of seeds. Female vines produce small string-like white or yellow flower bunches in late summer that resemble oak pollen and smell like cinnamon. Male vines grow small tubers above ground on the leaf axils of the vine, known as air potatoes. Most found in North America are male Dioscorea japonica plants. Uses Yamaimo edible parts include the tuber, and air potatoes (or seed), but the tuber requires some processing before they can be consumed. The air potatoes can be roasted and snacked on like edamame. The air tuber and tuberous root have a neutral flavor that often acts as a binder for various foods – like soba noodles, for instance. The food chemistry of the yam is most interesting. When eaten raw, they’re either shredded or grated to remove the fibrous, indigestible parts. Those who handle the raw tubers wear gloves because they irritate the skin. They’re mixed with other flavorings, and taste a bit like a potato. But their texture is varied depending on the preparation. They’re used in sweet confections for binding, and sometimes they’re cooked into a soft, sticky, and crunchy pancake. They’re commonly made into dumplings thrown into miso soup, and the slippery texture or slimy texture of grated yamaimo is excellent in noodle dishes of all kinds. Yamaimo is medicinal in China and it’s considered wild mountain medicine in Japan where it is used to treat digestive disorders, and to support kidney functioning. Like other wild yam species, it regulates hormones and is sometimes used as birth control. In phyto-chemistry Dioscorea japonica is considered antioxidant and anti-inflammatory. Varieties There are four accepted formal botanical varieties of yamaimo (Dioscorea japonica). Several formal botanical varieties are almost identical. They include Dioscorea japonica var. japonica, Dioscorea japonica var. nagarum, Dioscorea japonica var. oldhamii, Dioscorea japonica var. pilifera. They are called their various names in different regions of East Asia. Planting Plant each tuber in late spring. Prepare a site with light, rich, well-draining media, and bury it at least one foot deep. Three feet is best. Because the wild yam of yamaimo is fragile and can break during the harvest growers plant it in a plastic tube in a raised bed, or a barrel of some kind. The area you choose should receive full sun or partial shade. Once you’ve selected and prepared the site, plant the tuber, and within a month or so you’ll have new shoots in the form of seedlings. Sprouted yamaimo air potatoes can be planted in the same manner. If spring is already past, consider planting rooted stem cuttings in summer. We’ll discuss more of the ins and outs of propagating Japanese yam later in this piece. When you set your Dioscorea japonica into the ground, provide a sturdy trellis to support its upward growth. This could be along a chain-link fence, or via a wooden trellis you’ve constructed. At first, a single pole will suffice, but as the vine grows provide more support. Consider this selecting your planting site. How to Grow Once you have an established Dioscorea japonica vine, you’re on your way to harvesting a Japanese mountain yam. Because the tuber takes a while to grow, you’ll have time to focus on caring for the vine. Maintenance Prune your vine to control its spread. Trim parts to train the vine’s shape as well. Because the small air potatoes produced on male vines and their clones can drop to the ground and propagate, take time to remove those so they don’t take over. Another appropriate time to prune is at the end of the growing season in the fall. Remove all the leaves when they’ve browned, and leave a small five-inch stem at the base. Mulch to protect it from the cold.