Companion planting herbs allows plants to deter pests, enhance pollination, and improve soil health, Daniel Powers, founder of The Botanical Institute, says. It also leads to a lusher and a more aromatic garden all season long, “As long as you pay attention to plant families, the size of your chosen herbs, their heat tolerance and sun requirements, and if they are annual or perennial, you can mix and match according to your preferred flavors, garden space and climate,” Tanja Eskildsen, an adaptation gardener and owner of the seed shop, Perennial Vegetables, says. To find out what herbs can be planted together, read on to learn about 14 possible herb combinations. Meet the Expert Daniel Powers is the founder of The Botanical Institute. Tanja Eskildsen is an adaptation gardener and owner of the seed shop, Perennial Vegetables, Herbs That Can Be Planted Together Chives and Parsley Some herbs when grown together can boost each other’s flavor. Planting chives near parsley, for example, can improve parsley’s overall taste, as chives offer a more pungent tang to parsley. Powers explains how chives also help repel aphids and beetles which will benefit delicate parsley plants. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Lavender and Rosemary Lavender and rosemary offer splendid blooms and love the same growing conditions: full sun and well-drained soil. So, growing these plants together is ideal because you won't need to worry about having to complete two different growing methods. Meanwhile, the pretty flowers usher in a pop of color to your garden. Basil and Oregano According to Powers, both plants can keep away pests. Basil can help repel mosquitoes, spider mites, and aphids. While oregano also has a strong scent that keeps pests away. “Both plants enjoy similar growing conditions too,” Powers says. Chives and Rosemary Sometimes herbs should be planted together because they have different root depths. This includes chives and rosemary, Powers says. By having differing root depths, both plants won't need to compete for resources like water. Sage and Thyme Thyme is a good companion plant with almost all herbs, but especially sage because both prefer less water. Thyme likes fast-draining soil whereas sage prefers drought-like conditions. Lavender and Sage Both plants prefer dry and sunny growing conditions, which is perfect because not many herbs thrive in hot climates and handle less water, Eskildsen explains. At the same time, lavender can also help repel animals such as deer and rabbits that like to nibble on sage, making these two plants even better for each other. Marjoram and Basil Occasionally, one plant might support the other more. Marjoram, for example, can improve the flavor and growth of basil, Powers says. Marjoram is a herb with a sweet citrus smell and taste, so growing it next to basil can make basil taste a bit sweeter. However, both herbs can create a more aromatic environment in a common vegetable garden, discouraging pests in the process. Thus, either plant can make a great addition to the garden. Cilantro and Dill Cilantro and dill can both attract beneficial insects like pollinators and predatory insects that control pest populations for each other, Powers says. For example, hoverflies are drawn to cilantro, and their larvae eat aphids, a common antagonist in any healthy garden. Parsley and Chervil Parsley, a flowering herb, and chervil, a member of the parsley family, are good garden companions because they like similar growing conditions. “Parsley can help enhance chervil’s growth and flavor, as they enjoy similar light and water conditions,” Powers says. Thyme and Rosemary Thyme and rosemary, both Mediterranean plants, thrive in dry, well-drained soil. Being planted together can help create a microclimate that suits their needs, Powers says. Not to mention, thyme repels cabbage worms and other pests of common garden plants. Dill and Chives Chives, like onions, have a pungent smell and taste, which repels pests like aphids, a common garden bug. Meanwhile, dill’s yellow flowers will draw in pollinators like butterflies and bees to your garden. Together, these herbs make a great team repelling and attracting different insects to your garden. Tarragon and Oregano Tarragon and oregano are both herbs with dainty flowers that offer lots of aroma. While both are indeed aesthetically pleasing, these two plants also prefer the same sun exposure and soil conditions, making them great companion plants in the garden. “These two plants can also benefit from each other’s presence by repelling a variety of pests due to their strong scents,” Powers says. Garlic and Rosemary Rosemary strengthens garlic’s flavor. Not to mention, both herbs also have a strong scent that deters many garden pests. These herbs also require the same soil conditions, so there's no need to maintain the plants in different flower beds. Since garlic loves sunshine and less water, rosemary makes for a great companion plant because it can quickly adapt and thrive. Marjoram and Chives Approximating the smell and appearance of green onions, chives have smaller flowers and leaves. This means they need less space in the garden while their strong odor repels many pests from the rest of your garden plants. Meanwhile, the citrus flavor of marjoram subtly sweetens the chives’ flavor. What Herbs Shouldn’t Be Planted Together Mint and most garden plants: According to Powers, mint can be incredibly invasive and can quickly overtake neighboring plants, robbing them of space, nutrients, and water. If you choose to grow mint, keep it in a separate container. Fennel and most herbs: Fennel is unfriendly to most other plants because it secretes a substance that can inhibit the growth of other plants around it, Powers says. It’s best to plant this herb away from others. Cilantro and Tarragon: These herbs prefer different growing conditions. For example, cilantro likes cooler temperatures and can flower quickly in warmer weather, while tarragon thrives in warm, dry conditions, Powers says. Planting these herbs together can make it difficult to keep each herb happy. Basil and Sage: These plants prefer different soil conditions. Basil loves moist soil and more frequent watering, while sage prefers well-drained, drier soil. Powers explains. Growing these together makes it so neither receives its optimal growing conditions. Peppermint and Parsley: Peppermint, like mint, tends to take over with a sprawling root system. This is why peppermint can overwhelm parsley, a single-root plant. Lemon balm and most garden plants: According to Eskildsen, lemon balm is an aggressive grower and will dominate a space. Additional Tips for a Thriving Herb Garden Know the Final Size of Your Herbs Some herbs grow into tall bushes and others stay low to the ground, Eskildsen says. Eskildsen recommends planting your tallest herbs in the background and the smaller ones in front or around it. This will help make sure each plant has enough light and make harvesting a lot easier. Identify If It's an Annual or Perennial “Some herbs you only need to plant once and others you plant every season,” Eskildsen says. To help organize your herb garden, it’s good to know if your herbs will grow in the same spot for many years or only one season, meaning it will have to be switched out for another herb eventually. Mix Shade and Sun-Loving Plants Appropriately Eskildsen explains how sun-loving and shade-tolerant plants grow well together as long as you plant the shade-tolerant plants under a taller sun-loving plant. “The foliage of the taller herb will gently shade the herb underneath allowing you maximum use of garden space," Eskildsen says.

Are you looking for a unique and highly ornamental native wildflower for your shade garden? Jack in the pulpit is unusual, showy, and surprisingly easy to grow, given the right conditions. Does your shade garden have what it takes to grow a Jack-in the-pulpit? Keep reading to find out! Anyone who loves those early spring wildflowers that carpet the woodlands of North America will appreciate the Jack-in-the-pulpit plant. This is a fascinating spring ephemeral wildflower. Spring ephemerals are those flowering plants that emerge early in the season for a brief period of flowering and then go dormant again for the rest of the season. Jack-in-the-pulpit is native to moist woodlands throughout eastern North America, and if you’re lucky, you can grow one in your own shade garden. Jack-in-the-pulpit, Arisaema triphyllum, is a member of the Arum family (Araceae), which comprises mostly tropical plant species. There are just a handful of Arisaema species native to the United States, and the Jack-in-the-pulpit is, by far, the most common. You can sometimes find these plants for sale at nurseries specializing in native plants. You’ll only need one because they will slowly spread and can be further propagated if you ever want to expand your collection. Jack-in-the-pulpit plants emerge in early spring, providing showy vegetation for just a few months from early spring until early summer. During this time, watch for the fascinating, cup-like flowers with their hooded tops. Take a peek inside the flower, and you’ll see the “Jack” in his pulpit! After flowering, the plant goes dormant again unless it has produced a mass of bright red fruits, which linger until fall. These plants are an ideal addition to your native shade garden. If you want to try growing your own Jack-in-the-pulpit plants, let’s dig into more details about how you can help them thrive in your landscape. Plant Natural History Jack-in-the-pulpit is a long-lived perennial native to the central and eastern United States and Canada. It grows in moist, deciduous woodlands throughout its range, preferring lowland forests with rich soils. It typically grows alongside an assortment of other spring-blooming wildflowers, including trilliums, spring beauties, and Mayapples. This herbaceous perennial wildflower is part of a group of spring-blooming plants known as spring ephemerals. These plants bloom in early spring, and then the above-ground leaves, stems, and flowers wither and die back to remain dormant for the rest of the growing season. The thick corm-like roots remain alive and well below the soil surface. Jack-in-the-pulpit was used as a food source, although it should be noted that all parts of this plant are poisonous unless they are properly prepared. These plants also provide a food source for birds and other small animals as they forage on the ripe fruits. Jack-in-the-pulpit is an important part of the forest ecosystem, and wild plants should not be removed from their natural habitat. Characteristics Jack-in-the-pulpit is a showy wildflower for your springtime shade garden. In early spring, the leaves begin to emerge, starting the brief growing season for these plants. Each plant produces just two or three stems that emerge from the base. At the end of each stem is a broad arrangement of three equally sized and spaced leaflets. The leaves are typically solid green with prominent central and lateral veins. A final, central stem between the leaf stem becomes the flowering stalk. Jack-in-the-pulpit has very unusual spring-blooming flowers. When you examine these inflorescences, you will notice a cup-like part with a prominent hood. This cup-like flower part is known as the spathe (it’s the “pulpit”). The inner flower part is called the spadix and looks like a rounded stalk. This is the “Jack” who sits inside his hooded pulpit. After blooming, the leaves die back, and the entire plant goes dormant for the remainder of the year, re-emerging again the following spring. If, however, a mature plant produces pollinated fruits, these remain standing as a mass of bright red berry-like fruits, fully maturing by late summer or early fall. Jack-in-the-pulpit plants grow from thick tuberous roots. These are relatively slow-growing, but they will spread over time, creating attractive colonies. You won’t need to worry about these plants becoming invasive in your garden, as they are very well-behaved. A colony of Jack-in-the-pulpits consisting of several lush, green, healthy plants is a very attractive addition to your landscape. Propagation If you already have a mature Jack-in-the-pulpit plant, you should have no trouble propagating it. You will, however, need to wait a few years for it to either produce seeds and self-sow or develop some new side growth from the roots that you can then dig and divide. Either way, patience is key. How to Grow Jack-in-the-pulpit plants are surprisingly easy to grow. If you can provide ideal growing conditions, you should have no trouble with maintaining a healthy population of Jack-in-the-pulpit plants in your moist woodland garden. Maintenance Jack-in-the-pulpit is a fairly low-maintenance plant. You’ll want to keep an eye on it while it’s growing to make sure it looks healthy. If colonies grow larger than you want, go ahead and thin them back to your desired preferences. Pull out any weeds that try to invade your wildflower garden. This will not only improve the looks of your woodland garden by keeping it tidy, but you will also greatly help reduce competition from aggressively growing invaders.

Looking to plant some sweet potatoes, but aren't quite sure where to start? Growing sweet potatoes can actually be quite fun, no matter your skill level as a gardener. In this article, organic gardening expert Logan Hailey walks through how to plant, grow, and care for sweet potato in your garden this season! They’re not potatoes, nor are they yams: Sweet potatoes are a highly versatile yet misunderstood garden vegetable. These nutritious fiber and carb-rich roots are renowned for their “superfood” health benefits and delectably creamy sweet texture when cooked. Though they are somewhat shrouded in mystery (are they like potatoes? are they tubers? why do they start from “slips”?), these relatives of Morning Glories are intriguing and straightforward to grow. Sweet potatoes are beautiful plants with edible roots and nutritious greens that will vine through your garden, climb a trellis, and even hang out indoors as a trailing houseplant. If you’ve been dying to try out a rainbow array of sweet potato varieties unavailable in stores, or you just want to add diversity to your summer garden, this warm-weather root crop is a joy to grow and eat. Let’s dig into how to plant, grow, and care for the most delicious sweet potatoes you’ve ever tasted! History and Cultivation As one of the oldest root vegetables in the world, the earliest records of sweet potato cultivation date back to 750 BC. With their ability to cure and store for up to a year, the carb-rich smooth flesh has been an important energy source for Latin American cultures. In the modern day, they are cultivated throughout the U.S., with about 50% being commercially grown in North Carolina. These heat-loving plants can be grown in zones 5-9 as annual vegetables, however they are only perennial in zones 10-11. Here’s everything you need to know about the history and cultivation of this scrumptious vibrant root. Defining Sweet Potatoes Sweet potatoes (Ipomoea batatas) are not potatoes or yams, but rather a tropical root vegetable. They are perennial vegetables (herbaceous perennial vines to be exact) most commonly grown as an annual vegetable in temperate gardens. The popular orange-fleshed vegetables are often mistakenly called tubers or potatoes, but they are in fact root vegetables that grow from the enlarged tips of winding stems beneath the surface of the soil. As a member of the Morning Glory (Convulvaceae family), sweet potatoes are related to bindweed, morning glory varieties, water spinach, and the wood rose. They thrive in warm, tropical climates, however farmers and gardeners have adapted their growing methods to produce them in temperate northern regions as well. Most varieties require 90 to 150 days, or at least 4 or 5 completely frost-free months to produce full-size roots. Sweet potatoes are a humble and underappreciated “superfood”. The nutrient-dense vibrant flesh can be creamy white, yellow, purple, or orange-tinted. The fibrous orange, tan, or purple skins are rich in beta carotene and antioxidants. Their pale to dark green edible leaves are often used as a salad green in hot southern summers. When the leaves die back and the roots are ready to be harvested, the entire plant is pulled and sweet potatoes are removed from their underground stems to be prepared for curing and storage. Where Do Sweet Potatoes Originate? Like potatoes, sweet potatoes hail from Central and South America, where they have been a staple in indigenous food cuisines for millenia. Ancient records of their cultivation show origins in Peru around 750 BC, however newfound archaeological records also reveal sweet potato relatives growing as early as 2500-1850 BC in Polynesia. Due to the resemblance between the Polynesian word for sweet potato kuumala and the Quechuan/Andean native word cumal, anthropologists speculate that the orange tubers traveled over the Pacific from the west coast of South America long before historians initially thought. Needless to say, by the time European conquistadors arrived in Central America in the 15th century, sweet potatoes (called camote) were a well established crop and staple food in the cuisines of Peru, Mexico, Chile, Bolivia, Ecuador, and the Philippines. Samples were taken back to Spain and Belgium to attempt small scale cultivation. Captain James Cook also picked up the root vegetable in Polynesia in the late 1700s and contributed these genetics to the ever growing germplasm of sweet potato breeding projects back in London. The tropical vines were never widely successful in northern Europe without their ideal hot, moist native conditions. However, when they were introduced to American colonists in the mid 1600s, the crop finally took off as a staple crop in the American south. Not a Potato, Not a Yam The name “sweet potato” is full of linguistic and botanical confusions. To start with, sweet potatoes aren’t actually potatoes at all. While regular potatoes are members of the Solanaceae family (along with tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant), sweet potatoes belong to the morning glory family, Convulvavaceae. Sweet potatoes (Ipomoea batatas) were first confused with regular potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) when Christopher Columbus brought the orange-fleshed roots back to Spain in the 1500s. Europeans called them potatoes due to the similar rounded shape and starchy texture. Further confusion arose when the native Caribbean Taino word for sweet potato (batata) was confused with the Italian word for Solanaceous potatoes (patatas). To make matters more confusing, they later became conflated with African Yams. Though they are often mislabeled or used interchangeably on supermarket shelves, true yams (Dioscorea batatas) are completely unrelated. The tropical yam vine is native to Africa and has black or brown thick bark-like skin and a tan flesh with nutty flavor and slippery or sticky texture. They are not sweet like a sweet potato, and instead used for making doughs, breads, thick porridges, and different types of custards. True yams can grow over 7 feet long and even weigh up to 150 pounds! Sweet potatoes are far humbler, typically averaging 4 to 6” in length and weighing about 4 to 6 ounces (however, the Guinness Book of World Records documented an exceptional 81 pound sweet potato grown by a gardener in Spain)! Nonetheless, the American sweet potato is best enjoyed at a moderate size when its tender, dry, sweet flesh can shine in the kitchen. Propagation Sweet potatoes are not typically grown from seed. Instead, they are propagated vegetatively via pieces of stems called “slips”. Slips are available from seed companies and nurseries in the spring. These shoots are technically rootable cuttings that are grown from mature plants and shipped to farmers and gardeners around the country. You can certainly grow your own slips, but the quickest way to get started is to order certified planting material from a reputable source and skip to the propagation steps below. Making Slips Sweet potato slips are essentially sprouts that are snipped from the lush growth of a mature Ipomoea batatas plant. With the proper setup, you can grow your own slips from a root that you already have in your kitchen. In your home, you can produce slips in two main ways: Use toothpicks to suspend half of a root in a jar of water and allow it to sprout over the course of 5-8 weeks. Provide warmth with a seedling heat mat and keep the water fresh. Plant a root in a shallow tray of soil, keep it moist, and wait 2-3 weeks for sprouts to grow. Either way, be sure to start with an organic sweet potato of the variety you wish to grow. The slips will be exact replicas of the parent plant. Selecting certified organic is also important because conventional store bought sweet potatoes may be treated with sprout inhibitors or pesticides that could impede this process. When the sweet potato has grown plenty of new sprouts with green leaves, it’s time to cut your slips: Once sprouts have grown 5-6” long, you can cut them off the plant. Take the green sprouts and submerge them in water for 3-5 days. You may need to switch out the water a few times to keep it fresh. When the roots on your cuttings have grown a few inches long, they are ready to be planted in trays or directly in the garden. The soil-grown slip route is the quickest way to produce slips. This is how commercial producers grow the slips that are shipped to you from seed companies. One mature sweet potato can grow 10-12 slips that can each be rooted into a new plant. Propagation From Slips The easiest way to grow sweet potatoes is by leaving the slip-starting to the experts. Order your slips in early spring and select the shipping date recommended for your zip code. When they arrive, they may appear wilted, pale, or dried out. Don’t worry, this is a normal part of the shipping process! Just like bare root strawberry crowns, sweet potato slips are pretty resilient and will readily bounce back once planted. They may or may not have roots, but as long as the stems are still green, they should produce viable plants. Ideally, Plant Slips Right Away Begin by unbundling the slips and misting their roots with water. Keep them protected in the shade as you prepare your garden beds with the instructions below. The soil must be at least 60-65° before planting slips, so be sure to use a soil thermometer to check the temperature. If it is still too cool, use a method below to hold your slips until the garden soil has warmed. If Planting is Delayed, Soak or Bury the Slips Sometimes the weather or life’s schedules are not in your favor. If you can’t plant your slips immediately upon arrival, you have two options for holding them until your garden beds are ready: Whichever method you choose, just be sure that the slips do not dry out or get exposed to intense conditions. They should be kept at room temperature, out of direct sunlight, and safe from wind or pesky rodents. Planting Planting sweet potatoes is a fun and intriguing garden project for children and adults alike. They are unique from other plants because they are grown from slips rather than from tubers (like true potatoes) or from seeds like other vegetables. They require warm soil, so don’t plan to get these babies in the ground until late spring or early summer in northern climates. Usually the best time is at least one month after the last spring frost date. Use a soil probe to ensure that the soil temperature is above 60°F. You may want to heat the soil with black plastic for 2-3 weeks before planting. Alternatively, you can build raised beds that will warm faster in the spring. You can also opt to plant your sweet potatoes in containers, if you don’t have much space.