Move than mums and gourds, there is another fall ornamental gracing our containers and arrangements! Biologist and gardener Lindsay Miller introduces the fresh and fabulous ‘Coral Prince’ ornamental cabbage. The fall garden is not exactly one of longevity. With pumpkins becoming squirrel food almost immediately upon reaching the porch and most mum cultivars fading by the start of October, horticulturists sought a long-lived, frost-tolerant plant that could be used by home gardeners and landscapers. Imagine their delight when they bred ornamental cabbage! Ornamental cabbages and kales (also known as “flowering” cabbages and kales) are grown for their colorful foliage and unusual, if not whimsical, shape. They are members of the Brassicaceae family, meaning they are the fancier, more eye-catching cousins to broccoli, cauliflower, and, of course, edible cabbages and kales. While technically edible, ornamental cabbages are really pretty bitter and unpleasant. There are many fun varieties of ornamental cabbage and kale to add to your garden. Read on, and let’s dive in to one of these beauties, ‘Coral Prince’. What Is It? ‘Coral Prince’ is a type of ornamental cabbage known for its colorful foliage and frost-tolerance. In the horticultural world, “ornamental kale” applies to types with curly or frilly foliage, while “ornamental cabbage” describes plants with broad, smooth-edged leaves. Botanically speaking, however, all ornamental cabbages and kale are considered kale, as they all produce leaves in tight rosettes. Ornamental cabbages and kale are biennials, meaning they complete their life cycle in two years. Leafy, vegetative growth occurs in the first year, followed by flowers and seeds in the second. However, home gardeners almost always grow ornamental cabbages as annual plants. Characteristics ‘Coral Prince’ presents compact rosettes of lacy, deeply incised leaves that almost appear feathery. Outer leaves are gray-green with white veining. Interior foliage is creamy white, with a touch of blush at the very center of the rosette. Occasionally, the white interior leaves are edged in gray-green as well, giving the whole plant a very attractive marbling quality. At maturity, plants are roughly 15 inches wide and no more than 12 inches tall, usually shorter. ‘Coral Prince’ is a relatively broad and flat ornamental cabbage, and doesn’t produce the tall central stalk that some other varieties do, like ‘Crane Red.’ Native Area Kale and cabbage originated in the Mediterranean region, where they have been grown for centuries. Some plants eventually made their way to China and Japan, where those with particularly ornamental leaves were selected for further breeding. They became popular in gardens sometime after the 17th century, although they did not make it to the United States until the 1930s, when the USDA sent horticulturists to Asia in search of new plants. Planting Ornamental cabbages, like ‘Coral Prince’, are cold-tolerant annuals that fit just about anywhere in the garden! The elegant green and ivory foliage complements all palettes, but looks especially fresh when paired with purples or dark pinks. Plant it en masse in a mixed perennial bed with fall-blooming asters and goldenrod. Or, pop single plants in planters, pots, and hanging baskets with other fall annuals like chrysanthemums, pansies, and ornamental grasses. They make an excellent replacement for fading summer annuals. How to Grow Like most other cabbages, both edible and ornamental, ‘Coral Prince’ is a low-maintenance plant that just wants regular watering and plenty of sun. Maintenance Ornamental cabbages and kales are no-fuss annuals. Prune away any older outer leaves if they become scraggly. Provided plants are sited in full sun and given plenty of water, ‘Coral Prince’ does not require much else.

Container growing can be a great solution for gardeners in cool climates who want to grow their own avocado trees. Join Florida gardener Melissa Strauss for some tips on growing one of these tropical trees in a pot or container. There is no doubt about it, avocados are popular. With some amazing nutritional benefits and that famously creamy texture, there just is no substitute for this tasty fruit. The trees, however, are tropical and grow in a relatively limited range. If you don’t live in a warm climate, you’ve probably been stuck paying top dollar for your avocados at the supermarket. If this is your plight, I have some excellent news for you! There are varieties of avocado that you can grow in a pot or container, even in cool climates. Growing an avocado tree in a pot or container allows you to bring it indoors for the winter. Since these trees are not especially cold-tolerant, they won’t survive the winter in many parts of the country. Planting yours in a container will make all the difference if you live north of zone 9. Here’s how to do it! What Are Avocado Trees? Avocado trees are multi-branched evergreens that love warm, humid weather and lots of sunshine. As a result, they can be a challenge to grow in cool climates and indoors. However, some excellent dwarf varieties will thrive in a large container. Let’s talk about these trees and how to keep them healthy in a pot. Characteristics When discussing growing an avocado tree in a pot or container, we will primarily focus on dwarf varieties. A standard-sized tree can reach anywhere from 20 to 80 feet tall at maturity, so naturally, these are tough to bring in for the winter. Dwarf varieties often stay between eight and 12 feet tall, and you can keep them even shorter by pruning properly. Dwarf avocado trees are slower growing and have a dense, bushy form compared to most standard trees. A grafted cultivar can produce fruit in about two to four years, and the fruits are comparable in size and quality to a standard. They are slower growing and ideal for urban gardeners or anyone with limited space. Native Area Avocado trees are native to the southern part of Central America. Their range spans from the eastern highlands of central Mexico, down through Guatemala, and into some parts of South America. They appear in tropical and subtropical mountainous regions at elevations up to 6,600 feet. Planting Since we are discussing growing avocado trees in containers or pots, we won’t delve into the specific time of year. You can purchase and repot your tree at any time of year, as long as you provide it with proper care, including limiting exposure to cold temperatures. Choose a large container, as large as possible, to contain the extensive root system. A wide pot is going to be more effective than a deep one. These trees have shallow, fibrous, and extensive root systems that don’t extend deeply into the earth. Most of the root system will be in the top several inches of soil. For a young tree, choose a pot that is at least 12″-15″ in diameter. A mature tree will thrive best in a container that holds 20-25 gallons, so plan for that when you decide where it will live during the colder months.

If you’re bored with bell peppers, these sweet curled red peppers are perfect for brightening up garden-fresh recipes. They may look like cayennes, but they don’t have any spice. Former organic farmer Logan Hailey digs into the details of growing the best pepper she’s ever tasted. Imagine a pepper so sweet and crisp that you want to bite into it straight off the plant. ‘Jimmy Nardello’ is an Italian heirloom pepper that puts most bell peppers to shame. I have nothing against bells, but they get boring after a while. Nardellos are much more adaptable, easy to grow, and amazingly versatile in the kitchen. The long, tapered fruits have thin walls and a multi-dimensional fruity flavor. Whether you pan fry them, dry them, pickle them, or eat them fresh, ‘Jimmy Nardello’ peppers make other sweet peppers seem bland in comparison. Although they look similar to a cayenne pepper, these elongated red peppers are purely sweet and savory without any spice. The plants are vigorous and disease-resistant and have a unique history from their Italian home. They thrive in almost any climate, from the far North to the deep South. Let’s dig into how to grow this easygoing, high-yielding pepper! Where Does ‘Jimmy Nardello’ Get Its Name? The history of ‘Jimmy Nardello’ peppers is almost as rich and intriguing as their flavor. This Italian heirloom originated in the mountains of Italy and made its way to America in 1887. ‘Jimmy Nardello’ peppers are named after an Italian gardening family. The Nardiello family originated in the small mountain town of Ruoti, which sits about 100 miles east of Naples, Italy. In 1887, Giuseppe Nardiello decided to bring his family to the States. His wife Angella Nardiello carried a handful of the peppers in her bag when the family sailed from the port of Naples to Naugatuck, Connecticut. She promptly planted the seeds in their new garden. The sweet frying pepper thrived in Connecticut and quickly adapted to the climate. The unique red pepper was particularly adored by her 4th child, Jimmy. His teachers misspelled his last name in school by eliminating the “i” and writing Nardello. The surname stuck to Jimmy and his descendants. Jimmy continued to grow the special curved frying pepper and would string them up to dry in the shed for winter use. He saved the seeds year after year. Before Jimmy Nardello passed away in 1983, he donated some of his family’s heirloom pepper seeds to the Seed Savers Exchange in Decorah, Iowa. They named the pepper ‘Jimmy Nardello’s Sweet Italian Frying Pepper.’ The seeds are now widely distributed in seed catalogs and nurseries. How Spicy are ‘Jimmy Nardello’ Peppers? ‘Jimmy Nardello’ peppers are sweet frying peppers without spice. Despite resembling a hot cayenne pepper, ‘Jimmy Nardellos’ have very little to no heat. These sweet peppers have complex, savory flavors and no spice. You can eat them raw! They range from 0 to 100 Scoville Heat Units (SHU), which is extremely low compared to a cayenne pepper’s ranking of 30,000 to 50,000 SHU. Propagation This revered heirloom is propagated by seed in the same way as all of your other pepper plants. It’s best to sow the seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before your expected last frost date. Direct sowing is not recommended except in the warmest climates. Seed Botanical Interests offers an exceptionally vigorous strain of ‘Jimmy Nardello’ seeds that will probably outperform every other pepper in your garden. The key is to start the tender plants off in a cozy environment where they won’t get stressed by temperature fluctuations. Like most peppers, ‘Jimmy Nardellos’ have a moderate-length growing season and benefit from a head start indoors. Since this heirloom is difficult to find in nurseries, it’s best to grow your own seedlings. The heirloom seeds have a fairly high germination rate when grown in a quality seed starting mix in a warm environment, such as a seed starting mat and a south-facing window or grow light setup. To grow vibrant ‘Jimmy Nardello’ seedlings: In the spring, start peppers 8-10 weeks before your last frost date. Clean a set of 4” deep Epic 4-cell trays and sanitize them with a diluted bleach spray. Fill the cells with a quality, well-drained seed starting mix, but don’t compress it down. Use your finger to make a small indent on the surface of the soil. Sow the 1-2 pepper seeds per cell, no deeper than ¼ inch in the soil. Very lightly dust with soil over the top. Gently water in with a rain wand on the lowest setting, taking care not to displace the seeds. Optionally, place the trays on a heated germination mat. Use a soil thermometer probe to ensure the soil is 70-90°F. Keep seeds in a bright, warm place. Maintain consistent moisture until seeds emerge in 10-25 days. Nurture indoors until rootballs mature and the outdoor nighttime temperatures are reliably above 55°F. The only issue you may encounter with pepper seedlings is damping off. Too much moisture and a lack of airflow can create conditions for a stem-girdling fungus to attack your baby peppers and rot the stems at the base. Be sure to plant in a well-drained mix with plenty of compost and vermiculite. If water pools up on the surface of the container or green algae forms, the mix is not draining properly, or it is waterlogged due to overwatering. Always check soil moisture before watering. Only irrigate until water flows out of the bottom of the pots, then stop. Planting Transplanting is as simple and straightforward as any other vegetable. Just be sure to properly harden off your seedlings and avoid planting too early in the season. ‘Jimmy Nardellos’ are extremely cold-tender and finicky about chilly nights. Maintenance Bushy pepper plants don’t need a trellis system like their tomato cousins, but they enjoy staking to keep heavy fruit yields off the ground. This is especially important if you live in an area with late summer storms that could blow over the plants and snap the stems. Create a pepper staking system with a bamboo, wooden, or sturdy metal stake next to the plant’s stem. Make sure the stake is buried at least 6” in the soil. Use twine or string to tie the stem to the stake to keep the plant upright. If you’re growing many pepper plants, you may want to use a Florida weave system with several stakes pounded every 2 feet and twine woven between them to create a long row of supported plants. The only other maintenance I’d recommend is mulching, especially if you live in a hot, dry climate. Dried leaf mulch or shredded organic straw are the best options for suppressing weeds and retaining soil moisture at the base of pepper plants. Mulch at least 1-2” deep and leave a small ring of space around the base of the stems to prevent rot.