Dill is a popular herb to toss in various dishes, but dill plants can also do well in the garden. Dill is an excellent companion plant for certain herbs and vegetables, such as basil and broccoli, as well as flowers like marigolds. This guide will help you use this versatile herb to benefit plants in your garden. Here are 12 dill companion plants to help cultivate a healthy and productive garden. Benefits of Companion Planting Companion planting is a tried-and-true gardening technique that can boost the health of certain crops when planted together. Some plants can attract pollinators like wasps and repel pests like cabbage worms and moths. Additionally, while most plants absorb nutrients from the soil, some do the opposite. Bush beans, for instance, send nitrogen back into the earth to benefit neighboring plants, and chamomile can release chemicals that boost growth and even flavor in nearby plants. Dill is a great companion plant for numerous herbs and vegetables primarily for its relationship with good and bad insects. Dill plants can attract pollinators like honeybees and ladybugs to your garden, as well as deter harmful insects like aphids and spider mites. Additionally, dill has shallow roots and narrow stems that can easily fit between larger plants like Brussels sprouts to help you save space in your garden. Corn Insects like cutworms and earworms can threaten mature corn. Dill has an intense fragrance that attracts various insects like ladybugs and hoverflies. These beneficial bugs happen to prey on corn's harmful pests, making flowering dill plants an excellent companion for established corn.1 Experts recommend growing dill on the ends of corn rows, roughly one foot away from the nearest corn stalk. Name: Corn (Zea mays) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Loamy, well-drained, acidic, neutral Asparagus For many crops, aphids are always on the prowl, looking to gobble up your plants before you have the chance. Asparagus is among these vulnerable veggies. Fortunately, dill seeds attract both lacewings and ladybugs, which enjoy snacking on aphids.1 Additionally, companion planting with asparagus and dill is a great way to maximize growing space and ensure an even distribution of nutrients. Name: Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-9 Light: Full sun Soil: Sandy, loamy, neutral acidic Basil Dill and basil are great companion plants, because of their many similarities. Not only do they benefit from similar soil components, but they also attract many of the same beneficial insects and deter destructive pests.1 If you're building an herb garden, be sure to plant basil nearby. Name: Basil (Ocimum basilicum) USDA Hardiness Zones: 10-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Moist, rich, well-draining, acidic to alkaline Deer Resistant: Yes Tip Other herbs like coriander, parsley, and chervil also make great dill companion plants. Broccoli Brassica vegetables include broccoli, cauliflower, kale, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, turnips, and more, many of which make great dill companion plants. Dill can help deter destructive insects like cabbage moths, cabbage loopers, and cabbage worms, all of which enjoy munching on brassica vegetables like broccoli.2 Name: Broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Moist, loamy, well-drained, acidic, neutral Marigold Dill can help repel a variety of pesky insects, but it is not immune to damage from certain bugs like caterpillars and slugs. Fortunately, there are certain plants that can ward off these critters, including marigolds.2 Companion Planting. Cornell University Cooperative Extension. Marigolds are considered one of the best companion plants, pairing perfectly with onions, squash, cucumber, and more. Name: Marigold (Tagetes spp.) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Evenly moist, well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral Lettuce Some sources argue that leafy vegetables like lettuce are the best dill companion plant of all.1 Not only is lettuce a primary target of many garden pests, but it has a short growing cycle, so you can harvest and replant your lettuce, spinach, and Swiss chard as the dill grows. Name: Lettuce (Lactuca sativa) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun to partial sun Soil: Loamy, rich, well-drained, acidic, neutral Onion Aphids tend to avoid the intense fragrance that accompanies dill, but that doesn't mean dill is protected from the threat of this common garden pest. Many avid gardeners recommend planting onions and dill together because the combination of these strong aromas offers an even better barrier against bugs like aphids.21 Name:Onion (Allim cepa) USDA Hardiness Zones: 4-9 Light: Full sun Soil: Loamy, well-drained, neutral Beans Like dill, beans are a great companion plant, because of the benefits they offer neighboring plants. Specifically, the roots of bean plants attract nitrogen, which benefits the surrounding plants. In exchange, dill keeps away common garden pests that threaten to destroy growing bean plants.2 Name: Common bean, green bean, etc. (Phaseolus vulgaris) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Loamy, moist, well-drained, acidic Nasturtium Like marigolds, nasturtiums can be an excellent dill companion plant and benefit a number of other popular garden herbs and veggies. Just as onions and dill work together to repel aphids, nasturtium can protect garden crops by doubling dill's efforts. This popular companion plant attracts pollinators as well as predatory insects, making it a great addition to most garden beds.1 Name: Nasturtium (Tropaeolum spp.) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Moist but well-drained, acidic, neutral, alkaline Chives Like onions, chives have an intense fragrance that can deter aphids, making dill and chives a great pest-fighting team. Chives will not only help dill deter this destructive garden critter, but it also repels other garden pests like spider mites. Together, chives and dill attract pollinators to foster health for neighboring plants.2 Name: Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) USDA Hardiness Zones: 4-8 Light: Full sun to light shade Soil: Loamy, sandy, slightly acidic to neutral Tip Some sources say planting dill near alliums like garlic, chives, onions, and leeks can help enhance their flavor.2 Zucchini Zucchini and other squash plants tend to grow big and bushy, so not every popular companion plant pairs well with these leafy giants. Fortunately, dill is thin and frond-like, so it won't clash with the squash plant's leaves or block sunshine. Additionally, zucchini and squash are particularly susceptible to pests like squash beetles and flea beetles, but dill plants offer an effective line of defense by attracting predatory insects.2 Name: Zucchini (Cucurbita pepo) USDA Hardiness Zones: 3-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Rich, loamy, moist Cucumber Dill and cucumber are another great pair in both the kitchen as well as the garden. Cucumber beetles are a major threat to cucumbers, but fortunately, dill can help. Dill plants attract ladybugs, parasitic wasps, and green lacewings, all of which love to feast on cucumber beetles.3 Name: Cucumber (Cucumis sativus) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun to partial shade Soil: Rich, well-draining, acidic to neutral Plants You Shouldn't Grow With Dill Although dill can be a beneficial companion plant for a wide variety of vegetables, herbs, and even flowers, not every plant will interact well with dill plants. Here are a few plants you should avoid growing near dill: Carrots: Avoid planting dill and carrots together, as the pair are members of the same plant family and can cross-pollinate. This is also true of celery, cilantro, caraway, and more.2 Peppers: Peppers, and other nightshades like eggplant and even tomatoes, are not the best companion plant for dill, because they consume the same type of nutrients, which may stunt your plants' growth.2 Lavender: Lavender and dill are not great companion plants, since both have different soil requirements. Dill prefers moist soil, while lavender likes its soil to dry between watering.45 Potatoes: Dill grows quickly and sometimes blocks light from reaching other growing plants like potatoes, which can stunt their growth.

Cassava, or yuca, is a delicious root vegetable from tropical regions of the world. It grows well in warm gardens with long, hot summers. Though it requires some care to grow properly, homegrown yuca is well worth the effort! Learn how to plant, grow, and care for this giant perennial vegetable. I know of cassava as yuca, as the Spanish term yuca is popular in Caribbean islands like Puerto Rico and the Dominican Republic, as well as parts of the U.S., like Southern California. It’s a delicious root vegetable with brown, knobby skin and creamy white flesh. The tuberous roots sprout from tall stems with large, lobed, and hand-like leaves. Though uncommon in grocery stores, you can find cassava in Mexican markets throughout the U.S. It’s difficult to find in cold regions because the plants require eight to 11 months of frost-free weather to form their edible tubers. If you do find them, try them! They’re a tropical delicacy. Cassava harvests can be gigantic in warm, frost-free climates. Consider adding this root veggie to your roster if you live in warm states from California east to Florida. What Is Cassava? This root crop is a popular food staple in warm, tropical regions throughout the globe. Like sweet potatoes, it needs a long growing season to produce a sizable harvest, but it can survive in the outer ranges of USDA hardiness zones 8 and 9 as an ornamental plant. Native Area Cassava is native to humid, tropical countries in South America. It has a wide range, thriving in low and high-elevation areas with varying levels of rainfall. Though it’s native to South America, it grows well in portions of Latin America, Africa, Asia, and Europe. Some gardeners try cultivating yuca as far north as Oregon! It’ll grow into colder portions of zone 8b, though it won’t produce large, delicious tubers worth harvesting. Consider overwintering it in a large container indoors or in a greenhouse. Characteristics Cassava grows dahlia-like tubers from woody stems that sprout high into the air. Some specimens may reach as tall as 22 feet! These erect woody limbs sprout palmate, hand-like leaves. These root veggies are monoecious, meaning they sprout separate male and female flowers on the same plant. They’re small and inconspicuous, though they’re gorgeous en masse with large plantings. Cassava contains some toxic compounds in its skin and leaves. They’re easily removed with the right preparation. Peel the skin and boil the roots until they’re soft before eating them. Discard the boiled water, and avoid using it for soups and stews. After boiling, the leaves are edible, too. You may also process the flesh into flour. Remember, never eat raw cassava; prepare it first before consuming it. Planting Yuca grows best in sunny sites with regular water, airflow, and high humidity. Grant the plants plenty of room to grow, as they spread tall and wide during the growing season! With a proper planting, they’ll thrive in the months to come. How to Grow Provide plenty of light, space, and moisture for a successful cassava crop. Use large containers, raised beds, or in-ground beds to grow it. It’ll thrive well in frost-free regions of the country, especially Texas, Alabama, and Florida. Maintenance Low-maintenance and easy-going, cassava grows well without much care. Cut off damaged or diseased leaves as you see them, and pull weeds from the soil to prevent overcrowding. Adding compost on top of the soil can help suppress weeds while also feeding and nourishing the site.

If you don’t like turnips, this delightful, sweet gourmet root will change your mind! Former organic farmer and vegetable expert Logan Hailey digs into simple growing tips for refreshing crunchy Japanese turnips that even kids will crave! If you don’t like turnips, this delightful, sweet, gourmet root will change your mind! A lot of people wrinkle their noses at the thought of turnips. These mustard-family roots often get a bad rap for their slightly bitter taste, brownish-purple color, and association with “poor man’s” cuisine. But the Japanese ‘Hakurei’ turnip turns all these generalizations on their head. Its crisp, buttery smooth texture and mild refreshing flavor are wrapped in a gorgeous white package that tastes so sweet and juicy that it’s hard to even call it a turnip! ‘Hakurei’ turnips are the trendy foodie cousins of your grandma’s classic purple top turnips. The snow-white rounded roots have a delicate fruity flavor tasty enough to eat raw! They have recently gained popularity in American farm-to-table cuisine. Once you try them, you’ll probably never garden without them again. The ‘Hakurei’ is remarkably easy to grow, requiring similar space and maintenance to a radish. Just be sure you sow a lot because these roots disappear quickly once you discover how tasty they are straight from the garden. Let’s dig into everything you need to know about growing sweet Japanese turnips! Surely, they will reclaim the humble turnip’s reputation in the garden! History and Cultivation Turnips and their rutabaga relatives have been cultivated for thousands of years. Because the turnip root is so hardy, frost-resilient, and easy to grow, they were often considered a food source for the poor. The easily storable roots provided enough sustenance for farmers and livestock throughout the winter. European aristocrats refused to eat them. However, this humble vegetable was a staple for a reason: it is remarkably resilient! Turnips are simple to cultivate, low-maintenance, easy to store, and nutritious. Their native origins likely came from wild mustards growing throughout Europe and Asia. As members of the Brassicaceae or cruciferous family of vegetables, turnips are also related to broccoli, cauliflower, kale, Brussels sprouts, and kohlrabi. What is ‘Hakurei’ Turnip? ‘Hakurei’ is a variety of turnips with tender white round roots best harvested when they reach golf-ball size or slightly larger. The flavor is delicate and slightly fruity, between an apple and a mild radish. Unlike their dense storage root relatives, these fresh-eating turnips don’t need to be cooked and are often best enjoyed straight from the garden! You can prepare them in salads, slaws, kimchi, quick pickles, soups, roasts, and sautés across many cuisines. Also known as Tokyo turnips, salad turnips, or Japanese turnips, ‘Hakurei’ was developed in Japan around World War II and has since become a popular hybrid seed variety widely available in the United States. The root vegetable has a juicy, refreshing sweetness that can be enjoyed raw, pickled, boiled, or roasted, setting it apart from the dense starchiness of standard turnips or potatoes. Where Did ‘Hakurei’ Turnips Originate? ‘Hakurei’ turnips were developed by plant breeders in Japan during World War II. The mildly sweet, buttery-crisp roots have thin, pearly white skin that doesn’t require peeling or much cooking. As Japanese people faced severe food shortages in the 1940s and 50s, farmers and gardeners turned to this quick-growing, nutrient-dense crop to help feed masses of hungry people. Recall that Japan was prohibited from trade with the United States in 1941. Previously, they were heavily dependent on food imports. Farmers were forced to jump into action when international food was cut off practically overnight. ‘Hakurei’ turnips became an important substitute for the inadequate rations of rice, beans, and insects. They grow quickly and easily and can be eaten fresh. Propagation If you’ve ever grown a radish, you’ll be delighted to find that the delectably smooth and crisp ‘Hakurei’ requires almost the exact same care and conditions. The small black brassica seeds are best sown directly in the garden. Direct Sowing The best time to plant turnips is in the cool weather of fall or spring. However, you can plan for multiple successions of ‘Hakurei’ turnips throughout early summer. The plants tolerate moderate frost but prefer to germinate in cozy soil around 65-80°F. If you’re unsure, use a soil thermometer probe before planting. Prepare a weed-free seed bed, optionally raking smooth a 1” layer of compost over the surface. Create shallow furrows ¼” to ½” deep in rows 12-18” apart. Disperse the turnip seeds in 2-4” wide bands, each seed about 1-2” apart. Sowing in Clusters Some farmers sow in clusters of 2-3 seeds every 2”, allowing you to selectively harvest and thin them as they mature. Like radishes, salad turnips don’t mind growing in little bunches as long as there is room for each bulb to grow 1-2” in diameter. Avoid sowing too densely, or it will be difficult to sort through the jumble of greens to properly thin. Gently cover with a thin layer of soil. Avoid burying too deeply, or the seeds may not have enough energy to reach the surface. Maintain continuous moisture with a watering can or fan-nozzle hose. Germination takes 7-14 days. After germination, you can use your fingernails to pinch away any overcrowded seedlings. Be careful not to yank or disturb the baby plants you want to keep. Row Cover is Highly Recommended A row cover is highly recommended no matter where you direct seed your salad turnips. These quick-growing roots are, unfortunately, very popular amongst flea beetles. The flea beetles prey on young crops and can decimate the leaves with a million tiny shotgun holes that can quickly skeletonize seedlings. As an organic farmer, I never ever seeded turnips without a row cover. I left the row covers over the plants for the entirety of their 30 to 40-day lifecycle. The row fabric creates a physical barrier to keep pests out. It also creates a warm microclimate that can speed up germination. ‘Hakurei’ turnips grown under cover yield more beautiful, flawless, and blemish-free pearly white roots with tender mustardy greens. The key to successful row cover use is installing irrigation underneath the fabric. The soil moisture will be uneven if you try to overhead water through the fabric. It’s best to use drip lines or soaker hoses under the fabric. Otherwise, remove the fabric to water with a hose and drape it back over the top. No hoops are required for this low-growing crop. The fabric can gently “float” over the surface of the greens. Be sure you weigh down the edges with sandbags or smooth rocks to prevent the cover from blowing away. Transplanting from Cell Trays While less common, you can also transplant these turnips or grow them in containers. Many people believe it’s not possible to transplant taproot crops (this is true for carrots and fragile cucurbits), but turnips don’t mind transplanting. This is a great way to get a head start in spring and protect young plants from pests. Biodegradable pots or a paper pot are the best for transplanting root crops because you don’t have to remove the plant from the container. If you don’t have access to biodegradable pots, you can use a 144-cell tray. Fill containers with a well-drained soil mix and sow clusters of 2-3 turnip seeds in each cell. Seeds should be planted ¼ to ½ inch deep and lightly covered with vermiculite or potting mix. Maintain consistent moisture until germination, keeping the trays in the same full sunlight area as your other seedlings. When the seedlings are 2-4” tall, you can prepare them for transplanting by slowly reducing water and hardening them off for a few nights outdoors. Planting The best time to plant gourmet salad turnips is spring or fall. However, in mild climates, these quick-turnaround root crops can be sown in continuous succession throughout the summer. Here are some more details for a streamlined and successful planting process: How to Grow You will have no problem growing Tokyo turnips if you’ve successfully grown a radish. The keys to success are: Using row cover Loamy, well-drained soil Consistent moisture Proper spacing and thinning Timing your harvest