Thinking of growing tomatillo in your garden this season but aren't sure where to start? Tomatillo is an amazing vegetable to add to any garden! They are easy to grow, and can compliment many other veggies in your garden. In this article, organic gardening expert Logan Hailey walks through how to grow and care for tomatillo in your vegetable garden, step by step! An essential ingredient in salsa verde and southwestern chili, tomatillos are tomatoes’ tart, more acidic cousin. Though their name technically means “little tomato” in Spanish, tomatillos are a different plant entirely. They are also remarkably vigorous, disease-resistant, drought-tolerant, and more distinctly flavored than their tomato counterparts. In early summer, the chartreuse husks of tomatillos dangle like little lanterns waiting to be filled with ripened, tropical-flavored fruits. These plum-shaped nightshades are native to Mexico and also go by the names “Mexican husk tomato”, miltomate, “mexican ground cherry” or the Latin names, ​​Physalis philadelphica and Physalis ixocarpa. If you’ve been wanting to add some diversity to your summer garden and enjoy the bold flavors of a zesty salsa verde, tomatillos are remarkably easy to grow and harvest! Let’s dig into planting, growing, and caring for these unique husk-covered temperate fruits. History and Cultivation Tomatillos are tomato relatives with a whole host of culinary uses and health benefits. Their husked green fruits are a pleasure to grow, harvest, preserve, and eat! Modern breeding efforts have generated incredibly vigorous varieties that are easy to grow and generous with their yields. Let’s explore the fascinating cultural and botanical background of the noble “husk tomato”! What Are Tomatillos? Tomatillos (Physalis ixocarpa) are annual nightshade-family plants that bear small, tart, plum-shaped fruits wrapped in husks. These frost-sensitive plants grow on farms and in the wild throughout the tropics. In temperate gardens, they are planted in late spring or early summer for warm season harvests. The tomatillo plant can be upright like a tomato (especially with the help of trellising) or it can vine and sprawl low to the ground (hence the name of the closely related, small-fruited “ground cherry”, Physalis philadelphica). The stems are slightly hairy and the leaves are ovate with jagged edges. When tomatillos flower, their distinct yellow blossoms have five fused petals and darker spots in the center. The plants need pollen from a neighboring plant to produce their tart fruits. You will notice the bright green husks forming first, and then the tiny fruit- technically a berry- begins to grow inside. Only the fruit is edible and the rest of the plant parts are considered mildly poisonous. Tomatillos are usually about 2-3 inches in diameter. They can be eaten raw or cooked, and are often included in traditional jams, chutneys, salsas, soups, and stews. Where Did They Originate? Most infamous for their inclusion in salsa verde recipes, tomatillos have been used in Mexican, Guatemalan, and other Meso-American cuisine for millenia. They were probably first domesticated by Azetc or Mayan farmers around 800 BC, but may have been collected from the wild for a long time before that. The word “tomatillo” comes from the nahuatl word tomatl. In Guatemala, it is called miltomate. Scientists at Penn State recently uncovered a pair of fossilized wild tomatillos over 52 million years old! That means tomatillos were growing at the same time when giant ancestral rhinoceroses and 8 foot tall carnivorous birds were roaming Meso-America. After their excavation in Argentina, these ancient lantern fruits completely changed the botanical world’s understanding of the nightshade plant family’s origins. Propagation Like most nightshades, tomatillos are predominately propagated by seed. Their flattened round seeds are reminiscent of yellow lentils and handled similarly to tomato seeds. When to Seed Tomatillos Most tomatillo varieties take 60-80 days to mature. You can start tomatillo seeds indoors 6 to 10 weeks before the expected last frost date for your region. This will prepare them to be planted out around the same time as you transplant their cousins, bell peppers, eggplant, and tomatoes. If you would like to directly sow tomatillo seeds in the garden, wait until outdoor nighttime temperatures are consistently above 55°F, typically in late spring or early summer at least 2-3 weeks after the final frost date. How to Propagate Tomatillos These seeds are easy to germinate and tend, but if you don’t have a seed-starting setup, tomatillo plant starts are also widely available. Keep in mind that unique varieties of purple or yellow-orange tomatillos may be difficult to find as nursery starts and need to be seeded in your home nursery or directly-sown in your garden. Filling Seed Starting Trays Prepare 6-packs or 4” pots with a quality, well-drained seed starting mix that is rich in organic matter. Don’t pack the medium into the cell too densley. Use your finger to make a small shallow imprint in the center of the cell about ¼” deep. Decide How Many Seeds To Plant Tomatillo plants produce impressively huge yields, so you don’t usually need to plant many of them (unless you really love salsa verde and plan to preserve massive amounts of it). These fruits are much higher yielding than their tomato relatives. For a small family who likes salsa verde, I would recommend planting just 1 to 2 tomatillo plants per person. However, you may want to start double this amount of seeds to have backup or replacement plants in case anything goes wrong. Remember that you need at least 2 plants in your garden to ensure proper pollination (tomatillos have self-incompatible pollen and need a neighboring plant to actually produce fruit). Tomatillo seeds usually stay viable for 3 years under proper storage conditions (cool and dry in their seed packets). Sowing Seeds Sow tomatillo seeds ⅛” to ¼” deep at a rate of 1-2 seeds per hole. Lightly cover with a thin layer of potting mix or vermiculite and gently water in. Keep the seeds consistently moist and warm until germination. Water, Warmth, Thinning, and Tending Tomatillos love a warm, cozy environment. A heating mat will speed up germination and promote even sprouting amongst your seedlings. Tomatillo seeds take 7-14 days to germinate and prefer temperatures between 75 and 95°F. Once they grow their first true lives, be sure to thin plants to 1 per cell. Grow the baby tomatillos for 6-8 weeks until they have robust root balls and the weather has thoroughly settled out in your garden. Planting Tomatillos If you’ve ever planted tomatoes, it will be very easy for you to plant and grow tomatillos as well. The process is almost identical and can be done at the same time as your other Solanaceous crops (eggplant, peppers, and tomatoes). When to Transplant Tomatillos Tomatillos are extremely frost-sensitive and shouldn’t be put out in the garden until night temperatures are reliably over 55°F. The ideal soil temperature in the garden is between 70 and 80°F. This is typically 2-3 weeks after the last frost of the spring, often between March and May in many parts of the United States. Due to their cold sensitivity, tomatillos are best planted about 2 weeks after your early tomatoes. The tomatillo seedlings should be at least 4-6” tall and have strong root balls before planting. Check that the plants have ample amounts of healthy, green leaves and any early flowers pinched off before transplanting. Flowers that grow on baby plants are often a sign of stress and should be removed to allow the plant to channel its energy into root and shoot establishment. Tomatillo Spacing Tomatillo plants can grow quite large and sprawl about. The full-grown plants grow 3-4 feet tall and spread 2-3 feet wide or more. Trellis or No Trellis? If you’re growing with a trellis, plant tomatillos about 24” apart in rows 1-2 feet apart. You can use classic tomato cages, stakes with string, or the “Florida Weave” method. You can also let tomatillos ramble up cattle panels or fencing. If you plan to let tomatillos sprawl along the ground, plant them 36-48” apart in rows 2-3 feet apart. Keep in mind that harvesting takes a bit more time when they aren’t trellised. Plant Deep Like tomatoes, tomatillos are eager to root all along their stems as they establish. This is called adventitious rooting, or the ability of plants to develop roots from any tissue (such as from their stems). This creates resilient, durable plants with deep root zones for scouring water during drought and holding strong in windy conditions. To get the most out of your tomatillos’ adventitious rooting preferences, plant the seedlings deep into the soil. Depending on the size of the start, you can even remove some of the lower leaves as long as there are 3-4 pairs of healthy leaves left above the surface. How to Transplant Tomatillos Prepare rich loam garden soil just like you would for the majority of your vegetables. Consider adding a generous helping of quality organic compost. Use a broadfork or digging fork to loosen the lower layers and ensure good drainage. Be sure the area is weeded and raked smooth. Hardening Off Before transplanting, ensure that you’ve properly hardened off your baby tomatillos. These nightshades are very cold-sensitive and need 1-2 weeks to adjust to outdoor temperature fluctuation. I prefer to harden them off along with my pepper plants by placing them in a protected area of the patio where they still receive plenty of light. A layer of lightweight garden fabric (row cover) can help keep them cozy at night while still getting them adjusted to the world outside the nursery. Measure, Dibble, and Tuck When you’re finally ready to get these babies in the ground, lay out a measuring tape to mark out your spacing. Use a hori garden knife or a shovel to prepare holes that are 1.5 to 2 times larger than the size of the root ball. Grasp the seedling by its base and gently wiggle it out from its cell. Place the baby tomatillo in the hole and backfill. There is no need to press down or compress the soil, as tomatillos prefer a loose soil with excellent drainage. Water in tomatillos thoroughly to help with establishment. These can be quite drought tolerant plants, but they need consistent moisture in the beginning to get established and prevent blossom end rot. Sporadic watering may lead to issues with the fruiting. At the same time, a soggy soil will lead to very slow-growing, even wilty or diseased tomatillos. Consider using drip irrigation or soaker hoses to keep the beds moderately moist. How to Grow Tomatillos When growing tomatillos, it’s important to cover all your bases. You want to make sure you plant them where they will get adequate light, water, the right type of soil, and the right type of fertilizer. You’ll also want to take companion planting with tomatillos into your thought process if you plan on growing them with other plants. Let’s take a look at each step in more detail.

Basil is an herb known for loving sun and warm weather conditions, so it might be alarming to suddenly see the shiny, fragrant leaves shriveling up, and beg the question: why is your basil wilting? There are a handful of care requirements to pay attention to when you're growing basil, and there are a few specific factors that could be responsible for wilting leaves. If you noticed your basil taking a turn, it's not too late to save it. We spoke with two experts to help revive your basil. Meet the Expert Ward Dilmore is a landscaping expert and founder of California-based Petrus Landscaping. Samuel Davis is a horticulturist and the CEO of London Gardeners. Why Your Basil Plant Is Wilting Too little water: Landscaping expert Ward Dilmore cites watering issues for wilting basil plants. Underwatering can cause wilt, but watering too often can, too. Too much water: When basil is grown in larger pots, some gardeners tend to overwater. In doing so, Dilmore says wilting, root rot, and leaf spot can occur. Intense heat: Horticulturist Samuel Davis also notes that intense summer heat and highly fluctuating moisture levels can wear down a basil plant. Bolting: They can also start to wilt if they've bolted, meaning they're going to seed and will slowly stop producing tasty leaves. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! 5 Ways to Revive Basil Plants A wilting basil plant can make a comeback. Here's what the experts say you should do to get this fragrant herb back on track. Nail Down Your Watering Schedule Dilmore says that your basil's soil should be slightly moist and not oversaturated. Usually, watering every two to three days is enough for these plants. If the temperatures get hotter and the soil dries out faster, you can bump up the frequency. Water Early in the Morning Basil tends to wilt in the summer because of the temperature change, which affects the moisture of its soil. Hotter days mean water will evaporate more quickly. To buffer this, Davis says to water your basil plants early in the morning so the soil stays moist for longer. You can water more if the soil fully dries out by the end of the day. Amend the Soil The right soil is necessary for successful basil growth. If you chose a random bag from the store, it might be time to switch. Davis says the herb requires soil that's well-draining and rich in organic matter. This helps retain nutrients and keep moisture locked in—but not for too long, which can lead to root rot. Give Your Basil a Little Shade Although basil plants love bright sunlight, they may need a little shade now and then. If your garden is located in a zone that gets extremely hot temperatures during the summer, Davis says that during the hottest part of the day, it's smart to cover it with shade cloths or move it into a covered area. Bring Out the Mulch Another way to help a wilty basil plant is through mulch. This will help retain moisture and keep the soil temperature more consistent. Davis says to spread a layer of mulch around the base of the plants for best results. 4 Additional Tips to Grow Beautiful Basil If you'd like to keep your basil plant healthy and happy for the rest of the summer and beyond, here are a few other care tips: Pinch the top leaves:Pruning is extremely important for growing a bushy and healthy basil plant. If you let it grow too tall and flower, it will no longer produce loads of leaves or become voluminous. To avoid this, pinch the top leaves and prevent them from growing taller than 8 inches. Fertilize your plants: Fertilizers can be instrumental in helping your basil plants thrive. Davis says to choose balanced, organic fertilizers, which will provide ample nutrients and encourage more leaves. Use deep, large pots: If you're creating a container garden of basil, you'll want to ensure the pots are deep enough and big enough to prevent overcrowding. Pick sick leaves and prevent pests: Basil is susceptible to a few different diseases and pests. Keep a watchful eye and pick off any leaves that are completely shriveled or covered with disease. To deter pests like aphids and slugs, you can create a solution with dish soap and water to coat your plant as an armor of sorts.

Carrots are one of the most popular vegetables in gardens around the world. But to get the perfect harvest, you need the perfect formula of soil conditions, climate, watering schedule, and more. In this article, gardening expert and farm owner Taylor Sievers examines how to plant, grow, and care for carrots in your garden. Many garden vegetables taste the best when they’re picked fresh from a backyard garden. Their taste and texture can’t compare to the vegetables that sit idle in a delivery truck or in a grocery store for sometimes weeks at a time. The carrot is one of those vegetables! The best part is that carrots are relatively desirable to grow for the home gardener due to very little incidence of disease, their long storage potential, and their ability to be grown during the cooler months of the year. It’s no wonder that this vegetable crop has been a staple in the garden for centuries! Carrots are a member of the Apiaceae family (also known as Umbelliferae), and this family also includes such herbs as parsnip, fennel, celery, cilantro, anise, angelica, and dill. Amongst the common cultivated herbs and vegetables mentioned here, there are also several “weedy” species in the Apiaceae family that you can often find growing on local roadside, one of which is believed to be the ancestor to modern-day carrots, and today is known as wild carrot or Queen Anne’s Lace. Some of these related “weedy” Apiaeceae species are not so pleasant, such as the deadly poison hemlock (Conium maculatum). If you’re looking for an easy-to-grow and easy-to-store vegetable to grow in your home garden, then I’d say carrots might be the vegetables for you. They’re high in vitamin A and fiber and have a multitude of ways that they can be preserved, stored, and used in recipes. Read on to learn more about these crisp, tasty roots and their interesting history! The History of the Carrot When you think of the modern cultivated carrot plant, what comes to mind? Instantly, images of long, tapered, orange roots with ferny foliage may surface. However, did you know that carrots weren’t originally orange? Or that carrot varieties can actually be shaped differently? Let’s dive into some carrot history to learn more about these staple vegetables. Wild Roots Domesticated carrots were believed to have originated from the wild carrot (Daucus carota), a plant that has spread throughout much of the temperate world and is known as a weed by many. Wild carrot is indigenous to Europe, North Africa, and Western Asia. Wild carrot was reportedly used as a medicinal plant in ancient Rome. It was used as an aphrodisiac and in mixtures to help prevent poisoning. A Roman army physician named Pedanius Dioscordines wrote about both wild and cultivated forms of carrots in 65 B.C. He wrote that wild carrot could ward off reptiles and act as an aphrodisiac and diuretic. The cultivated forms were reported to be more palatable but less used for medicinal purposes. Wild carrot and its relatives were repeatedly mentioned throughout history by many different names. Throughout the Dark and Medieval Ages, carrots and parsnips (Pastinaca sativa; a similar-looking root crop that looks like a white carrot) were important starchy staples for the European diet. The Cultivation of Carrots The first evidence of carrot cultivation was on the Iranian plateau in Persia in the 10th century. Carrots that were domesticated in central Asia were actually purple, yellow, and white – not orange. The wild carrot itself has a white, forked taproot. It is believed that over time selections were made that led to a single, thick taproot with few forks, and then genetic mutations occurred which gave rise to colors in the roots. Cultivated carrots would spread to Syria and then Europe around 1100. During the Arab expansion into Europe, cultivated carrots were brought to the area of Andalusia (Spain). From Spain, carrot cultivation spread into the rest of northern Europe. The first carrots that were brought over to Europe were either purple or a mutant of the purple carrot that appeared yellow. The carrots were purple because they contained high amounts of anthocyanins, a pigment compound touted today for its antioxidant properties. The yellow carrots were believed to have mutated from the purple carrots and simply lacked anthocyanins. It was said that people preferred cooking with yellow carrots because the anthocyanins in the purple carrots would stain cooking water and cookware. Modern Carrots The orange carrot that we know today was believed to have come about due to hybridizing the yellow carrots brought over from Asia with relatives like the wild carrot and other wild subspecies native to the Mediterranean region. The first cultivation of orange carrots in Europe is believed to have been in the 1500s. The Dutch led the orange carrot breeding movement and eventually developed orange carrot varieties that were notably sweeter. Meanwhile in East Asia, the carrot was being cultivated and crossed there as well. The cultivation of these two types of the same species has led to two categories of carrots: Eastern/Asiatic Anthocyanin Carrots (Daucus carota subsp. sativus var. atrorubens Alef.) – These carrots are shorter, thicker, and generally lacking in carotenoid content. They are normally purple, though some are yellow. Eastern carrots were widely cultivated in Turkey, India, Afghanistan, Egypt, and Pakistan. Western or Carotene Carrots (Daucus carota subsp. sativus var. sativus) – These carrots are long and tapered in appearance and are usually orange or red in color. Carotene carrots are believed to have come from progeny between crosses of the Eastern yellow carrot, wild carrots, and Mediterranean subspecies. Around 1530 was the first mention of the word “carrot” in English. This was borrowed from the French word “carrotte” and from the Latin “carota.” Carrots and parsnips were not clearly distinguished in English due to their similar appearances (because carrots were more yellow or white then). Both carrots and parsnips were simply called “more” or “moru” (from the word “mork,” meaning edible root). In 1609, the pilgrims brought carrots to America, where they quickly became a part of the Native American diet as well. Then, in 1788, the carrot made its way to Australia with the British. In culture and cookbooks after its introduction, the carrot was extolled for its tastiness, versatility in many recipes and dishes, and its role as a staple in the garden. The Carrot Legend During World War II, the carrot came back to the forefront of people’s minds as a campaign was led to promote the eating of carrots, which were not as scarce as other food crops at the time. The British government touted that the Royal Air Force pilots could see so well because they ate special high carotene carrots, which improved their night vision. This was a way for the government to keep quiet the fact that the RAF was using a new airborne radar system, but nevertheless, the legend that carrots can cure night blindness spread. Carrots are high in vitamin A, and a lack of vitamin A can cause night blindness. However, there’s no evidence to indicate eating a lot of carrots can significantly improve your vision to supernatural levels. Carrots in the US After making yet another comeback in the 1960s and 1970s in pre-packaged form, carrots are now regularly sold at grocery stores and farmer’s markets alike. Not only are carrots sold fresh for consumption today, but the pigments (particularly purple carrots) are used to color fruit juices, candles, and other fruit preparations. Modern carrot breeding has also led to varieties with higher carotene content. United States carrot consumption peaked in 1997 with Americans consuming 14.1 lbs per person, but this number has since dropped off to 7.71 lbs per person in 2020. California produces 85% of carrots consumed in the United States, likely due to their year-round production ability. Michigan and Texas are also important carrot-producing states today. Description of Carrot Plant Carrot plants are not so easily distinguishable from their wild relatives, like Queen Anne’s Lace. The foliage is described as ferny or feathery, reaching up to 12+ inches in height. The plant is actually a biennial (flowering in the second year), but for production purposes, the carrot is grown as an annual. A basal rosette of leaves forms during the first year, and the plant will remain like this until bolting in the second year when it sends up a flower stalk that can reach up to 3 feet tall. Temperatures must be under 50⁰F to induce flowering, and if harvesting the roots to eat then bolting is undesirable. The plant produces a large, single (ideally), fleshy taproot. Carrot roots can be short and wide or long and tapered. This depends greatly on the variety and various soil characteristics. Propagation The best way to propagate carrots is by direct seeding them into the garden or a raised bed. Starting seeds in trays or pots and then transplanting them is not recommended, because carrots have a long taproot. Plants that have this long taproot characteristic (compared to a fine, branching fibrous root system) typically do not handle transplanting very well. Carrot seeds are small, brown, and light in weight. Moisten the soil before planting and sow the seeds in rows. Cover the seeds with a ¼ inch of light, loose soil to prevent the seeds from floating or blowing away. Space your carrot rows 12 to 18 inches apart, and sow the seeds about 1 inch apart in the row. You will need to thin the seedlings so that the plants are 2 to 3 inches apart in the row after germination. Germination can take up to 3 weeks. Some growers will plant rows closer together in a bed system, and there are many special seeders for the home or market gardener sold today specifically for carrot production. When to Plant Carrots As soon as the soil temperature has reached 40⁰F, carrot seeds can be planted, even if the last estimated frost for your area has not occurred. Carrots are considered a cool-season vegetable and can be grown in either the fall or early spring. Carrots prefer soil temperatures between 55 and 75⁰F, so seeds will germinate much faster under these conditions. Carrots can be grown earlier in the season in hot desert climates. Temperatures above 80⁰F will reduce seed germination. The higher summer temperatures will reduce the growth of carrot plants and also decrease the quality of the roots by causing bitter or off-flavors. If you prefer to have successions of harvests you can plant carrots every 4 weeks until mid-summer. How to Grow Carrots When growing carrots, there are many different factors that you’ll want to get correct in order to have a bountiful harvest. You’ll need to make sure you are on a proper watering schedule, have the right soil type, fertilizers, and keep up with routine maintenance. Let’s look at the most important factors to get correct when growing carrots. Water Keep the soil evenly moist to ensure that your plants germinate and grow together. Overwatering will promote hairy roots and forking, so to keep even moisture without overwatering try mulching around your carrots to help conserve moisture. Fluctuations in moisture will cause certain root disorders, bitterness, and root cracking. Drip irrigation is a great way to keep your carrot beds moist without flooding the area. Soil When choosing a site to plant your carrots, keep in mind that carrots prefer well-drained, loose soils rich in organic matter with full sun (6+ hours of direct sunlight per day). Carrots can also be grown in partial sun (2 to 6 hours of direct sunlight per day). Soils with higher sand content will be preferred. If your soil has high clay content, consider amending with compost or growing your carrots in a raised bed. Loose soils allow for good root development. When plants first germinate, the two cotyledons (baby leaves) will be grass-like in appearance. The new leaves that emerge after the cotyledons will be more fern-like in appearance. These are considered “true” leaves. When the plant has at least 3 to 4 true leaves, you can thin out our carrot plants by simply plucking unwanted seedlings from the soil. Thin so that your carrot plants are at least 2 inches apart, and for larger varieties, you can thin seedlings so that they are up to 4 inches apart. Fertilizing Add well-rotted manure or compost in the spring or fall will help increase soil fertility. Some sources say that when your carrots are 4 inches tall you can fertilize them with high nitrogen or nitrogen-only fertilizer by applying to the side of the carrot row and watering the fertilizer into the soil. Fertilizers are typically labeled with three numbers which indicate the levels of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (N-P-K) in that particular fertilizer. An example would be 18-46-0, which would indicate that the fertilizer has 18% nitrogen, 46% phosphorus, and 0% potassium. A nitrogen-only fertilizer would be one like 34-0-0 or 21-0-0. Always follow instructions on the manufacturer’s label when applying pre-packaged organic and synthetic fertilizers. Fish emulsion is an organic fertilizer that is typically higher in nitrogen and is sold in jugs at hardware stores and gardening centers alike. Maintenance Some varieties will naturally push up out of the soil as their roots grow so that the tops will be exposed to sunlight. You can push the soil up around the exposed top so that it does not turn green. Good weed control is important because carrots do not compete well with weeds, especially in the beginning stages of growth. If you choose to cultivate between rows, make sure to keep away from plants in order that you do not damage the roots. Mulching with grass clippings, straw, or other organic materials will help to conserve soil moisture and prevent weed growth.