Do you love to eat figs? Did you know that fig trees are remarkably easy to grow? In this article, gardening enthusiast Liessa Bowen will discuss the proper care and maintenance of one of the most popular fig cultivars, the ‘Black Mission’ fig. Mission fig (Ficus carica ‘Mission’), also known as the ‘Black Mission’ fig, is a popular edible fig cultivar. There is a tremendous variety of different edible figs, and the ‘Mission’ fig is one of the more common varieties you can buy from garden centers and plant nurseries. ‘Mission’ figs are also one of the most common fresh figs sold in supermarkets, so you are likely to have seen them somewhere before. The most likely reason you’ll want to grow a fig is for eating. Figs are sweet, tender, and absolutely delicious! A fig tree takes up a bit of sunny space and requires rich, moist soil, but if you can provide the right growing conditions, you’ll be surprised how easy it is to grow your own fresh figs. You can eat figs directly from the tree. They are delicious when eaten fresh, at their peak ripeness. But figs ripen very quickly, and you are likely to grow more than you can eat all at once. Fortunately, you can enjoy figs in a lot of different ways. Preserve them in jams and jellies, make pickled or canned figs, freeze them to blend into smoothies, or dry them for snacking. Keep reading to find out if you can grow a fig tree in your yard and how to help it thrive so you can harvest your own superabundance of these fantastic fruits. Plant Natural History Edible figs originated in Asia and the Mediterranean region, including some of the warmer climates of Europe. Fig trees grow naturally on rocky hillsides and in well-drained soils with full sun. They evolved with a special pollinator relationship with the fig wasp. In cultivation, however, most fig cultivars, including the ‘Black Mission’ fig, do not require a pollinator to produce an abundance of edible fruits. Fig trees have long been cultivated as a valuable food crop. They are now grown throughout the moderate climates in the world and have been bred to include hundreds of different cultivars. ‘Black Mission’ figs are very productive trees and easy to grow, making this variety an ideal candidate for commercial production. They bloom in the springtime, but don’t expect to see any flowers. The flower is actually more of an inverted fruit. In early summer, look for tiny, rounded green structures. These are a combination of the flowers and the fruits. The flowering parts are inside and not visible from the outside. These fruiting bodies will continue to enlarge and grow and will eventually become the first fruits of the year. This first crop is called the “breba” crop. Then, in mid-summer, trees will produce a second or “main” crop of fruits. Many figs produce a small breba crop and a larger main crop, but the ‘Black Mission’ fig produces an excellent breba crop, making it one of the earlier-fruiting varieties you can grow. Characteristics The ‘Black Mission’ fig is a deciduous, small to medium-sized fruit-bearing tree. These trees develop a very highly-branched, rounded form and more closely resemble a large-branched bush. The branches, particularly at the truck and base, are very thick, with smooth, light gray bark. Fig trees have large, deeply lobed leaves. The leaves emerge in early spring and stay on the tree until they are killed by the first frost. Fig leaves do not display bright fall foliage but rather change quickly from green to brown. The leaves have short, stiff hairs on them that cause them to feel a little rough and possibly even irritating on sensitive skin. The leaves and stems also contain a white, latex-like, sticky sap. This sap can cause contact dermatitis on sensitive skin. It’s best to wear long sleeves and gloves when working closely with these trees and wash your hands thoroughly after handling them, especially if you come in contact with the sap. Most people do not have a severe reaction to the sap, but it can still be slightly irritating. The ‘Black Mission’ fig produces high-quality edible fruits. The fruits are two to three inches across and change from green to reddish-purple at maturity. The fleshy interior is strawberry pink and has a deliciously sweet flavor. These fruits have very soft skin and split easily when they are past their peak ripeness. These trees develop a large, shallow, sprawling root system. Wherever you plant your fig, you can expect to see some of these knotty roots poking above the soil surface around your tree. Propagation The easiest ways to propagate your fig tree will be either by taking cuttings or starting a root sprout. Stem cuttings are very easy and reliable and will grow you a full-size fig tree from a dormant twig! Whichever propagation method you choose, you will need a mature tree from which to gather your starter materials.

The currant shrub produces tart berries that make excellent jams and preserves. They can have pink, white, red, or black fruit depending on the variety. All types have a high nutritional value and are easy to grow. Ann McCarron will explain all you need to grow them yourself. Currants are used to make jams, jellies, sorbets, cordials, syrups, fruit salads, cakes, and crumbles. There is an endless list of how to use your currant harvest. There are four different colors to choose from, each with its own unique flavor and use. It’s easy to see why gardeners love to grow currants. Pink and white currants look like delicate jewels hanging in huge bunches. They are deliciously sweet eaten fresh from the bush. Red currants, and especially black currants, are tart and require a little sugar to enhance their intense flavor. Not only do these little berries taste great, but they also pack a nutritional punch. They are high in vitamin C. One 80g serving is equivalent to 200% of your RDA (recommended daily allowance). They are also high in phosphorous, iron, antioxidants, fiber, and protein. Plus almost fat-free. Currants were once referred to as the ‘forbidden fruit’ in the US. They were banned in the early 1900s due to the risk of commercial growers spreading a blister rust disease. This disease is fatal to white pine trees used in the logging industry. The nationwide ban was lifted in the 1960s. The decision was passed to individual states. It’s still illegal to grow them in some states, so best to double-check your location. What is a Currant? Currants come from the botanical family Grossulariaceae and the genus Ribes. There are three main species: Ribes nigrum (black currant), Ribes rubrum (red currant), and Ribes sativum, white and pink currants. The latter are albino selections from red currant bushes and are less acidic. Native Area Currants are deciduous shrubs originating in woodland and scrub habitats in northern temperate regions across the globe. Most of the northern hemisphere and parts of South America have a few currant varieties. All Ribes species have similar growth habits and appearance with slight variations. They are closely related to the gooseberry bush, which has a similar growth habit. They tend to grow to medium-sized shrubs approximately three to five feet high and across with an upright growth habit. Characteristics Buds appear in late spring. This is followed by mid-green leaves, which alternate with a palmate appearance of five lobes and serrated margins. Stems are brown and woody when old. New growth is green and flexible. It will fade to light brown and have a woody appearance after one year. Tumbling racemes of small green/brown or green/white flowers develop among maple-like leaves in late spring. They open into long clusters of cream or red/brown flowers, depending on the variety. Black currant leaves are a bit rounder than white, pink, or red currants. The majority of currant varieties are self-fertile. Flowers don’t last long. They soon swell to produce berries that are small, round, and green. You only need one plant to produce berries. Black currants quickly blush a dusky red in late spring. They deepen finally to produce purple/black berries around half an inch in diameter. Red currants, pink currants, and white currants also start off green and change to their final pearlescent color as they swell. Berries are ready to harvest from mid to late summer. The berries are the only parts that are consumed. The best fruit is produced from two and three-year-old wood. It may take a year or two to yield good harvests from a new shrub. Currant shrubs lose their leaves in late fall and go into a state of dormancy. This is the best time to prune and propagate. Pruning is an important element of growing to maintain good health and high yields – but more on this later. Varieties Some popular and widely grown varieties to look out for are: Black currant – ‘Titania’ is a heavy producer of good quality large berries. Resistant to blister rust and powdery mildew. Pink currants – ‘Pink Champagne’ has excellent flavor and good highly resistant to disease. White currants – ‘White Imperial’ is a good, sweet-flavored variety resistant to powdery mildew. Red currants – ‘Honeyqueen’ has a great flavor from harvests of this red currant occurring over a long period. Another stunning cultivar is the ‘Red Lake’ variety. Planting Bare root currants should be planted in autumn. Soak the root ball in water for a few hours in advance of planting to rehydrate. New shrubs, like potted currant shrubs, can be planted at any time of year in the home garden. But they will suffer least from transplant shock if planted in autumn while dormant. Choose a location in full sun to partial shade. Currants grown in warmer climates will benefit from shade in hot weather. Soil should be rich, well-drained, and moisture-retentive. Amend the planting hole with lots of organic matter to give them a good start. They grow best in the ground but can be grown in large, deep, heavy containers that won’t blow over as they get bigger. If growing in containers, ensure you water and feed regularly. Currants can be planted slightly deeper than their nursery pot. This helps their shallow roots anchor into the ground, ready to support all that heavy fruit. Prepare a hole twice as wide as the root ball, adding lots of fresh organic matter. With the root ball in position backfill with soil, firm in, and top with lots of mulch. This will help retain moisture and keep weeds at bay. Keep the soil moist until they are established. Provide a cane for extra support if growing in an exposed site. They should be spaced four to five feet apart.

If you dream of growing a pomegranate but live in a cold climate, you can still grow these juicy fruits at home. All you have to do is plant them in a container! Join farmer Briana Yablonski to learn how to successfully grow pomegranates in pots. Have you ever thought of growing a pomegranate at home? While these unique, aril-filled fruits may seem impossible to produce at home, they’re actually quite easy to grow. However, gardeners in cold climates often remove pomegranates from their plant wish list when they realize they can’t survive cold temperatures. However, before you assume below-zero temperatures mean you can’t grow these plants at home, note that you can grow them in containers! Planting the trees in pots allows you to move them indoors during the winter to protect them from cold. Plus, containers make moving your pomegranate from one home to the next easy. Much of the care for potted plants is similar to in-ground pomegranates. However, you also need to be aware of factors like the ideal container size and potting soil, as well as differences in water requirements. Following these steps will help you grow a healthy pomegranate tree in a container. Select a Large Container Although pomegranate trees can happily grow in pots, they won’t grow well in small containers. The plants may survive for a year or two, but they’ll experience stunted growth and a lack of flowers. Therefore, it’s important to select a pot that gives the roots room to expand and flourish. While you may be tempted to choose a smaller container and repot your plant as it grows, it’s better to start with a big container. Repotting is an inherently stressful process, so it’s best to avoid it if you can. Plus, why purchase three different sizes of pots when you can get away with buying just one? Look for a container that’s at least 10 gallons. The container material isn’t too important, and plastic, terra cotta, and glazed ceramic can all work well. However, before you select a container, make sure the bottom contains drainage holes. If you live in hardiness zone 7 and below, you should plan on moving your pomegranate to a protected area during the winter. However, this is often easier than it sounds! When you start with a 50-pound ceramic container and fill it with potting mix, your potted pomegranate can easily weigh over a hundred pounds! Choosing a lighter container or placing the pot on wheels can make moving your plant more manageable. Fill With a Well-Draining Potting Mix After you’ve found a suitable container, it’s time to fill it with soil. You shouldn’t use native soil since this can lead to issues with drainage. However, you should also stay away from seed-starting mixes and those designed for vegetative houseplants. Instead, look for a specially formulated potting mix designed for trees and shrubs. These mixes are similar to those that work well for raised beds. Good mixes often contain nutrient-rich compost, peat moss or coco coir, and drainage materials like perlite, sand, or pine bark fines. Once you have a suitable mix, I recommend pouring it out into a large container and thoroughly mixing it with a shovel or your hands. Store-bought mixes often contain large clumps of peat moss or compost, and a good stir ensures a homogeneous mixture. Slowly add water as you mix until it is slightly moist but not damp. Add Your Plant to the Container Fill your container about two-thirds of the way with the potting mix. Remove your pomegranate tree from its current container and gently shake off any loose soil from the plant’s roots. You should also inspect the roots and remove any rotten or discolored portions. Place the plant in the new container so the top of the plant’s root ball is even with the soil line. Avoid burying it too deep since this can lead to problems with rot and growth. Once the plant is in the right place, add more fresh potting soil to fill in the remaining empty spaces. Gently compact the soil with your hands to remove any air pockets. Finally, slowly add water until it is moist. If the soil lowers after you add water, add more to ensure there’s an even layer in the container. Place in a Suitable Location After your pomegranate tree is tucked into its container, it’s time to place it in a location where it receives the proper amount of light. These plants require at least six hours of daily light, but they prefer much more. If they don’t receive enough light, they may become weak and stunted and/or fail to produce flowers and fruit. If your plant is outdoors, choose an open area with full sun. Alternatively, you can place the container on the south-facing side of a building, hedge, or fence. Indoor plants should also receive at least six hours of light, so choose a bright area. Typically, the area next to a south-facing window works well. However, you can also place the potted plant in a sunroom or other room with lots of windows. If you don’t have a bright enough area, use a grow light to provide supplemental lighting. Water Regularly You may have heard that pomegranates trees are drought-tolerant, and while this is true, they can’t survive long periods in a container without water. The best way to keep these plants happy is to allow the soil to dry out slightly, but not all the way, between waterings. When irrigating, it’s important to remember the difference in water needs between potted and in-ground plants. Since the sides of the container are exposed to the air, the soil heats up quicker, and water evaporates faster. Therefore, you’ll need to water your potted plants more often than those growing in the ground. The frequency you need to water your plants depends on factors including sun exposure, temperature, soil type, and container material. However, a good starting point is to water your potted pomegranate one to two times per week. Checking the soil with your fingers is a good way to determine whether or not you should water your plant more often. When the top three to four inches of soil is dry, you should water again. When you irrigate, water slowly to thoroughly soak all of the soil. You can water by hand with a hose or watering can, or you can set up drippers on a timer. Try to keep the foliage dry to prevent fungal diseases. Fertilize Regularly But Sparingly Pomegranate trees aren’t heavy feeders, so you don’t have to supply them with a large dose of fertilizer to keep them happy in a container. However, if you skip fertilizing entirely, the plants will begin to show signs of nutrient deficiencies. This is especially true with potted plants. If you use a nutrient-rich potting mix, you shouldn’t have to fertilize your plant in the first year. However, plan to start adding a balanced fertilizer in year two. An appropriate fertilizer will have an equal amount of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, so look for a product with an NPK ratio like 8-8-8 or 10-10-10. Add the fertilizer to your plant once per year in the late spring or early summer. Most organic fertilizers slowly release their nutrients over time, so a single annual application is enough to keep your plant happy. Avoid applying too much fertilizer since excess nutrients can be just as big of an issue as too few nutrients. Keep An Eye on the Temperature Pomegranate plants are more cold-hardy than many people think, but they still can’t tolerate extreme cold. Most pomegranate varieties grow best in zones 8-11 and will become damaged if exposed to temperatures below 10°F (-12°C). Therefore, you should aim to move your plant to a protected area once the temperature begins to drop below freezing. Fortunately, most pomegranates don’t require many chilling hours to produce fruit. That means you can bring the plants indoors during the fall without worrying about a lack of cold interfering with their fruit production. If you bring your plants indoors, you can place them in either a cool area like a covered porch or garage or a warm area like your living room. However, unless you’re dealing with a snap freeze, you should avoid moving them from a cold area immediately to a warm area. Instead, let them slowly acclimate to their new home by gradually increasing the time they spend in a warm place. When the danger of frost has disappeared in the spring, you can move the plants back outdoors. Aim to move them outdoors for a few hours one day, then a few more hours the next day. This slow introduction will help the plants adapt to the cooler air and brighter light.