Wondering what all the fuss is about heirloom tomatoes? There’s something special about their flavor, distinct shapes, and colors, but there’s also a history that doesn’t compare to hybrids on the market. In this article, organic farmer Jenna Rich shares why heirloom tomatoes have sentimental value to families across the globe and how best to plant, grow, and care for them. I’ll be the first to tell you how much I love hybrid tomatoes, created in labs to help growers produce these delicious fruits in an ever-changing climate, fight disease, and ward off pests. However, I’m also a sucker for the old-timey look and flavor of heirloom tomatoes. Nothing compares to these beauties on a Caprese salad with basil fresh from the garden and local mozzarella cheese. But what makes them so different, and why do some growers consider them special and valuable? This article will explore all of that. Let’s discuss how to plant, grow, and care for heirloom tomatoes. What is a Heirloom Tomato? Experts have defined heirloom tomato varieties by production, age, and tradition. They are not hybrids and are open-pollinated, meaning you can plant a seed from the mother plant, resulting in a clone. Experts have differing opinions on how old a seed must be before receiving heirloom classification, ranging from 25 years to pre-WWII. Heirloom seeds were passed down family lines for over a hundred years. Individuals have reported family members taking heirloom tomato seeds with them as they fled their countries years ago, passing down seeds each generation. Heirloom tomatoes offer unique marbling, both externally and internally. Shapes, colors, and sizes differ across varieties and are typically inconsistent throughout the growing season or year to year. They may look a little different each time they’re grown and have a shorter shelf-life, which is why they’re not usually found in grocery stores. They are typically sweeter and contain fewer seeds than hybrids. What’s So Special About Heirloom Tomatoes? While some of us have only ever experienced classic, red, round tomatoes from the grocery store, past generations experienced bold flavors, exciting colors and textures, and unique family stories from their garden crops. We adore heirloom tomatoes for their unique flavors, funky shapes, and, most importantly, the extraordinary familial stories you can’t find at the grocery store—the ‘Amish Paste’ plum tomato dates back to the 1870s, originating from Wisconsinite Amish farmers. And ‘Mexico Midget,’ whose seeds we believe to be collected from wild tomato plants in Mexico by a truck driver headed to California. Each heirloom tomato seed has an equally fun and exciting story attached to it. How to Grow Let’s discuss the basics and a few differences to help you produce the best heirlooms this season. Planting Plant your tomatoes out after the risk of frost has passed or into a protected space with optional covering if needed. Spacing will depend on the variety, growing zone, and setup.

The ‘Duke’ blueberry variety is grown for its prolific production and ability to withstand cold. Gardening expert Madison Moulton explains how to take care of this blueberry bush best Growing fruits reliably can be tricky for gardeners in colder climates. There is a balance required— some plants need a certain amount of cold exposure to fruit successfully, but too much frigid weather can damage some species. Blueberry lovers in colder regions won’t need to worry when growing the ‘Duke’ variety. This northern highbush is one of the hardiest blueberries available, suitable for frosty regions around the United States. They are also easy to grow when following these simple guidelines. What Is It? ‘Duke’ is a northern highbush blueberry variety known for its cold-hardy nature. These shrubs don’t mind a little chill, growing in USDA Zones 4-7. They produce flowers a little later in the season, avoiding issues with frost and ensuring cold-region gardeners don’t have to worry about frost protection. Although flowering is later, this variety is also one of the earlier producers. You can typically start harvesting berries at the beginning of summer, unlike other varieties like ‘Pink Lemonade’, which only start ripening in the middle of the season. The bush not only has berries that ripen early, but it also produces mountains of them – agricultural researchers assert it is one of the most prolific producers you can grow. You won’t have a shortage of delicious purple-blue berries to snack on if you choose ‘Duke.’ Planting Once you’ve purchased your blueberry bush, you’re bound to be excited to get it in the ground. However, it’s best to give it a little time to adjust before you plant. Changing environments are stressful for any plant, especially when they’ve been growing in optimal conditions at the nursery. For the first few days, keep your ‘Duke’ blueberry in a partially shaded area in its container. Avoid areas with high winds, as this can increase stress. Keep the soil lightly moist but not waterlogged until you’re ready to start the planting process. Don’t wait too long either – they only need a few days to adapt and limit shock. Plant within the first week in the shrub’s final home. Once your blueberry bush is acclimated, choose an ideal location for planting. Full sun is best for the highest possible yield, but these plants can also grow in partial sun. Soil is an important consideration, as blueberries are acid-loving plants. They won’t be happy in soil with a pH above 5.5 and prefer an even lower pH around 4.5 for the best possible growth. Test your soil and amend it until you achieve the right pH before planting. With your location identified, start digging the hole. It should be around twice as wide as the container and only slightly deeper, encouraging the roots to grow outwards into the soil. Lower the bush into the hole and plant at the same level it was at in the container, filling in the gaps with rich soil mix. Press down around the base of the plant to settle the roots in place and remove any large air pockets that may require a soil top-up. Water immediately after planting to prevent any further stress and encourage the roots to stretch deep into the soil. If you’re planting another blueberry bush simultaneously, leave at least 5 feet of space between each plant. Overcrowding can increase your risk of disease in both plants and increase competition for resources. However, growing multiple blueberries will improve pollination and overall yields.

We all know the tasty seeds of the pinto bean plant, but many haven't grown them. Our guide reveals everything you need to grow pinto beans! The pinto bean plant is one of the most popular kinds of beans grown in the US. They’re most commonly used in refried beans, in Mexican beans, or cooked in a slow cooker and served over cornbread or rice. If you love pinto beans in every way they’re served, you may want to consider growing pinto beans! You’re probably most familiar with pinto beans having a smooth, light brown surface when they’re cooked, but they’re beautiful on the plant! Dry beans typically have a light brown or tan base with a pink or purple pattern on them. “Pinto bean” literally translates to “painted bean,” and your garden will certainly look more artistic when you’re growing pinto beans. If you know how to grow beans, know that pinto beans grow similarly to other beans, so you won’t have to change many things if you’re growing multiple kinds of beans at once. Let’s get into the details so you can get one step closer to growing pinto beans to make your own pot of beans! All About Pinto Bean Plants Pinto beans are part of the common bean group scientifically known as Phaseolus vulgaris. Other beans in this category include green beans, butter beans, lima beans, and kidney beans. The pinto bean is believed to have come from Peru in the Peruvian highlands and was widely distributed throughout Central America and South America. There are several different cultivars of pinto beans that grow a little differently, but they all produce the same tasty bean. Othello is the most popular because of its high yield and flexibility to grow in different environments. Burke is derived from Othello and was bred to be resistant to diseases, produce even more beans, and have a stronger root system. If you’ve had tough luck with beans before, Burke might help you out! The Santa Fe pinto bean is ideal if you want to preserve your beans through canning, and Quincy is great when you have poor soil in an area that’s prone to drought. The Maverick pinto matures quickly and produces more beans than Othello. The Lariat, derived from the Maverick, has bigger beans with more seeds in each pod. There are many different varieties, so dig around and find out what will work best for your garden. Now let’s discuss how you can grow your own pinto beans. Planting Pinto Beans Pinto beans don’t like to be transplanted, so directly plant seeds outside after the danger of frost has passed. If you have a short growing season or want to get a head start, you can grow pinto beans in containers indoors so you can move the entire container as needed to keep the roots intact. At planting time, direct sow your beans in an area that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight, but the more, the better! The area also needs to drain well and shouldn’t be a site that has had beans growing in it within the last 3 years since diseases can stay in the soil and infect the newly planted beans. When it’s time to plant, plant with the bean eye facing downward no more than 1 ½ inches deep. Beans within a row should be planted 4-6 inches apart and rows should be 2 feet apart. Pole beans will need a fence, trellis, or other support systems to climb. Keep the soil moist while the beans germinate in 8-14 days. Once they’re a few inches tall, thin them so they’re 6 inches apart. Once the beans are established, you can allow the soil to dry out before watering again. Bush pinto beans mature in 90 to 150 days. They can usually be harvested all at once, while pole beans only have a few ready at a time. Staggered planting will allow you to have a steady supply and to grow pinto beans all season long. Two weeks between plantings is usually enough time. Pinto Bean Care Now that you know how to put the beans in the ground, let’s look at how to keep them alive! Beans are pretty easy to grow, so even beginner gardeners can get started. Sun and Temperature Pinto beans love sunshine and warm weather, so be sure you can give them plenty of both! They need 6-8 hours of direct sunlight, so avoid planting them in shady areas. At least six hours of full sun exposure is one of the most important parts of growing these beans. You can grow pinto beans in zones 2-11, but those in colder zones with short growing seasons will need to provide frost protection or consider growing in containers. Don’t plant the beans until the soil is at least 60°F. To plant earlier, lay black plastic in the garden to help the soil warm, leaving the planting holes bare and exposed to the light. If you’d rather not use plastic, mulch on either side of the planting hole can provide extra warmth too. If you live in a hot climate with warm summers, you may need to give them shade protection in the hottest hours of the day to prevent the plants from reaching over 93°F, as the plants won’t set bean pods in scorching temperatures! Many types of shade cloth are available, and you shouldn’t need anything that provides more than 40% shade. Ideally aiming for one between 20% and 40% shade coverage is perfect. Water and Humidity Young plants need consistently moist soil or damp soil, but once their shallow roots are established, you can reduce their watering schedule to when the soil is dry. The plants will need at least 1 inch of water per week, but this can vary based on many factors like rain, temperatures, and how much sunlight your plants receive. If you’re not sure, feel the soil. If the 1-2 inches are dry, it’s time to water! Giving your plants one deep drink rather than several shallow drinks is best to encourage the plant to grow a deep root system. Water at the base of the plant until the top several inches of the soil are moist. Avoid overhead watering or getting the leaves wet to prevent diseases, and water in the morning so the leaves will have plenty of time to dry out. Soil Grow pinto beans in fairly fertile soil with a slightly acidic pH of 6.0-7.0. A well-draining soil like a silty loam is ideal, so water can drain out and prevent the roots from being too wet. If you start your seeds in soil with plenty of organic matter or a side-dressing of compost prior to planting, you may not need to use fertilizer at all. Fertilizing Pinto Beans Pinto beans are nitrogen-fixers, meaning they absorb nitrogen from the air and fix it into nodules that form on their roots. This lovely benefit of many legumes means that many successful growers will chop off the plant at the end of the season, leaving the roots in the ground to decompose and fertilize the next season’s crops! Since they provide their own nitrogen source, if you fertilize your beans, choose something with low nitrogen levels, such as a general-purpose fertilizer with an NPK of 5-10-10 or an organic general-purpose with a ratio of 3-5-5. You can also choose to give your plants a fresh layer of compost once or twice during the growing season rather than fertilizing them. Note that most composts are inconsistent in terms of nutrients (this is a scenario where what goes in is definitely what comes out in the soil), so you may want to monitor your plants for any possible nutrient deficiencies, although they would be unlikely. Beans are pretty tolerant plants all told! Pruning & Training Pruning pinto beans isn’t necessary. Some people suggest pinching the tops of pole beans, but this actually might stunt your plants or cause them to focus on growing leaves rather than beans! The best way to prune your beans for better production, both pole and bush varieties, is to pick beans as soon as they’re ready. Like other legumes, pinto bean plants will produce even more once you start picking beans. You can prune bush beans if they look too bushy, but this shouldn’t affect their output unless you’re removing lots of flowers. Pole beans will need a trellis. You can use any kind of trellis or a fence like a chain link or lattice. Try out different methods to see what works best for you. Bush beans won’t need this kind of support, but you can still attach them to a short trellis to improve airflow at the ground level if you need to. For most bush beans, a single stake with plant ties is more than enough to provide support. Propagation The best way to propagate beans is by the seeds they grow in their pods. Beans germinate quickly and are easy to care for, so you really don’t need another method. Allow beans to dry out completely on the plant before harvesting, as this ensures that the bean seed has fully matured in the pod. Before storing beans to plant next year, shell the beans from their pod and allow your beans to dry even longer until they are fully hardened. It’s best to let them dry in a cool, dark location with ample airflow and low humidity.