Thyme is an easy-growing, evergreen Mediterranean shrub that is generally low maintenance, thriving in sun conditions. It's drought tolerant and comes back every year, but it does have one quirk—you have to harvest thyme correctly if you want it to thrive rather than die. Want to know how to get it exactly right? Here's how to harvest thyme, when to do it, and exactly how much to take. When to Harvest Thyme The best time to harvest thyme is during the growing season, which runs from spring through early summer. You can also harvest before winter’s cooler temperatures begin to set in. Try to harvest in the morning, which is when thyme's flavors are strongest. Thyme needs to be harvested regularly to keep its woody growth from taking over but, if you chop off too much, you risk damaging or killing the plant. If left to its own devices, thyme can become woody or flower, which negatively impacts the flavor of the herb. Harvesting thyme prevents woody growth, encourages more stems to fill in, and keeps the flavor of the thyme fresh and herbal. How to Harvest Thyme The first step in any harvest is to grab a sharp, clean pair of pruning shears or scissors and focus on the top of the plant. Carefully cut off a sprig either at the soil or above a leaf node. Avoid the woody stems, which don't have the same flavor as the younger leaves. How Much Thyme Should You Harvest? Harvesting thyme could mean a small cut or a big cut. You could trim off just a few stems, or you could cut off the entire top of the plant for a major harvest. For a significant harvest, you can trim up to half the plant, starting with the leaves on top, which should prevent the plant from blooming. Leave enough of the plant so that it is able to recover and grow back. Take too much and you could damage or even kill the plant; not enough, and you're not giving the plant an opportunity to fill out and grow to its full potential. Don't be shy in your cuts, but be sure to leave enough woody stems on the bottom for the plant to regrow. There should also be green leaves remaining after you've completed the harvest. How to Store Thyme If you're tempted to use up all of your fragrant thyme right away, go for it—thyme is most flavorful immediately after harvesting. As it sits for longer, its flavorful oils begin to fade away. Here are four ways to store thyme. Store Thyme in a Damp Paper Towel in the Fridge If you don't plan on using it in the first few days, resist the urge to take the leaves off the stem. Storing thyme all in one piece helps maintain the flavor, especially if you put them inside a plastic bag, wrapped in a damp paper towel. This should keep for up to two weeks. Dry Thyme Drying is the longest-lasting option. Hang bunches upside down in a dark area for two weeks. Once it's dried, store the full bunches in a resealable bag, and break the leaves off the stems when you're ready to use it. Bunch Up Drying thyme? Bundle the sprigs as you go, aiming for 40 sprigs in each bundle. Put Thyme in a Glass of Water You can also keep it in the fridge in small glass of water. While the thyme won't continue to grow, it will stay perky for up to a few months. Remember to change the water out at least once a week. Freeze Cubes of Thyme Thyme can also be kept in the freezer for use in a pinch in a soup or sauce. Chop it up finely, then put it in an ice cube tray with a thin layer of water on top. Wait until the cubes freeze, then pop them out to throw in your next chicken soup. Harvesting vs. Pruning Thyme: What's the Difference? While harvesting and pruning thyme both involve cutting back the plant, they are not the same; they have different goals and approaches, though both will prevent the plant from becoming too woody. With harvesting, you're cutting the plant at the ideal time in its growth to enhance the flavor of the stems you're gathering. This is typically done in the spring or summer, before the plant blooms. With pruning, you just want to trim the plant before winter to give it time to recover. You can prune thyme after it has bloomed—at this point, the flavor doesn't typically matter. This is being done for the health of the plant and making sure that it comes back next year, ready to produce a new crop.

Sage is a woody perennial herb known for its earthy, herbal, slightly sweet fragrance. Hardy and evergreen or semi-evergreen to zone 4, sage is rich in strong essential oils that give it a musky, but sharp, pungent taste and aroma. Sage is a common ingredient in cooking and is often tied in bundles or used as incense. However, harvesting too much sage from a young plant can destroy it. Whether you want to use it to season your holiday turkey or make your home smell great, learn how and when you should harvest sage without killing the plant. When to Harvest Sage Most leafy herbs have the richest flavor and aroma before flowering. However, common garden sage can be an exception depending on your growing conditions. You can potentially harvest before, during, and after flowering, although leaf production will slow considerably once the plant flowers. Typically, sage will bloom from spring to mid-summer with two-lipped flowers in shades of purple, but growing conditions play a role in bloom time. Blooms last for several weeks, with those on the lower stem drying up as flowers higher up continue to open.1 On occasion, they may rebloom. Try experimenting by harvesting leaves at different times and comparing flavor and quality to learn if flowering changes the taste of your sage leaves. Harvest lightly in the first year of growth, taking only a few leaves throughout the season. Once the plant has overwintered and developed a strong root system and bushy growth, leaves can be harvested in greater quantities. The best time of day to harvest is mid-morning after dew has dried and concentrated the essential oils in the leaves. Tip Sage flowers are edible, and different varieties add flavors ranging from fruity to spicy. Flowers are used in teas and made into jellies, vinegars, and syrups, among other culinary applications. How to Harvest Sage Throughout the growing season, harvest sage by the leaf or by removing a stem with a whorl of leaves. Using your thumb and forefinger to pinch leaves works best for harvesting sage. Look for leaves between 1 and 5 inches long, solidly green without spots or insect damage. Use your thumb and forefinger to pinch off the leaf with its stem where it joins the main stem. Or, pinch the main stem below the top whorl of leaves. Pinch the stem back to the second topmost whorl of leaves. How to Prune Sage In late winter, around the end of February, use a small hand pruner or clipper to cut your sage plant back by up to one-third of the total growth, to just above a node. Remove and discard any discolored or damaged leaves and use or dry any viable leaves from the cuttings. Depending on winter conditions in your growing zone, fresh leaves may remain on the plant and are fine to use, but may have some diminished flavor. A small hand pruner or clipper works well for late winter pruning. How to Dry and Store Sage Sage leaves are thick compared to many other leafy green herbs and take some time to dry naturally. Take cuttings with 4 to 5 inches of stem attached. Bind two or three stems with a rubber band or twine and hang them upside down in a dry location, out of direct sunlight, with good air circulation. The denser your bundle, the longer it takes leaves to dry, with greater potential for mold to develop. Lay individual leaves flat on a paper towel-covered tray for natural drying. Single leaves dry more quickly than bundled stems. Dry sage in a food dehydrator or a low-temperature oven. The best drying temperature is between 95°F and 115°F. Place fresh whole leaves in plastic bags or layered in freezer containers, remove air, and freeze for up to a year. The leaves are dry when they crumble easily. However, storing them in whole-leaf form preserves the flavor. As soon as leaves are broken down, they begin losing essential oils, so dry them whole and rub them between your palms or use an herb grinder to add them to food. The leaves must be completely dry before storage to avoid mold and discoloration. Glass containers with tight-fitting lids retain the best flavor and color for the longest time. If you grind the herb before storage, it should be used within a year. Store fresh sage leaves by wrapping them in a paper towel and placing them in the refrigerator. Or remove lower leaves and place stems in a small amount of water. Use fresh sage within a week. How to Harvest Sage Seeds Harvest sage seeds from the dried flower heads. Cut the flower stems, let them dry in a cool, dark space, and rub the flower heads to release seeds. Store seeds in a cool, dry space until you want to grow new sage plants. Tips for Harvesting Sage Harvest lightly the first year. Once the plant is well established, you can harvest more leaves. Harvest the leaf with its stem. Stems can be removed before storing. Harvest only the green, new growth stems and avoid cutting into woody portions of the stems during the growing season. Look for leaves between 1 and 5 inches in length, blemish-free, with solid green/gray color. Leaves can be harvested throughout the growing season, but the plant can withstand larger harvests before flowering. Cut sage plants back by a third in late winter to promote bushier growth during the next season.

Whether you’re growing them indoors for their tropical foliage or outdoors to harvest the delicious fruits, banana plants are wonderfully rewarding additions to any tropical garden. Gardening expert Madison Moulton discusses her first-hand tips for reaping the most from your banana plants. There are few gardening experiences that beat tasting home-grown fruit. The flavors are so much richer and sweeter than grocery store produce, made even more delicious by the effort you put in to grow them. Of all the fruits I’ve grown over the years, from lemons to litchis, one of the most rewarding has been bananas. This common fruit doesn’t excite many gardeners, but the boost in flavor and the amount you get to harvest each year makes growing them worthwhile. If you live in a tropical climate, banana plants are the perfect first fruit to try growing on your own. The tropical leaves also make attractive houseplants if you’re happy to sacrifice the harvesting aspect of growth. Successful banana growing isn’t difficult, but does require some essential knowledge of the plant and its structure. Follow this guide to find out everything you need to know. What Is It? The banana plant, part of the Musa genus, is an often misunderstood member of the plant kingdom. Despite its tree-like appearance, it’s actually classified as an herbaceous plant (and the biggest herb you can grow) with a pseudostem rather than a trunk. What’s even more fascinating is the fruit itself. The banana fruit is technically a berry and grows in clusters called hands, while individual bananas are referred to as fingers. Banana plants are an essential agricultural commodity in tropical and subtropical regions. But it’s not just the fruit that’s valuable. Other parts of the plant (particularly the leaves) are utilized in various dishes, making the banana plant a wonderfully versatile plant to grow in your garden. Their ability to thrive in a range of conditions and adaptability make bananas a great choice for gardeners in warmer climates. History Originally domesticated in Southeast Asia, banana plants are believed to have been cultivated as early as 8,000 BCE. Banana cultivation spread via trade routes early on, when Arab traders played a crucial role in introducing bananas to the Middle East. From there, the fruit found its way to Europe. It wasn’t until the late 19th century that bananas became a common fruit on the market. Modern transportation and refrigeration created space for the export of bananas from tropical regions to colder climates, turning what was once a unique luxury into an everyday staple. Historically, different banana varieties have been cultivated for different purposes. The bananas we commonly consume today come from cultivars and hybrids of Musa acuminata and Musa balbisiana species, or Musa × paradisiaca – a cross between the two. Characteristics Banana plants have a rather unique botanical structure and provide plenty of aesthetic value in tropical gardens. The stems, technically called pseudostems, are not woody as you would expect from its tree-like shape. Instead, they are made of a soft core surrounded by leaf sheaths, giving them the appearance of a tree without the same technical structure. These pseudostems can reach up to 20 feet in height, sporting long, glossy green leaves that also reach several feet in length. The leaves have stunning tropical flair, with an arching shape that instantly turns your backyard (or home) into a holiday paradise. Now to the important part – the fruits. Bananas develop in clusters known as hands that are larger than you might expect. Charmingly referred to as fingers, individual bananas grow without seeds in most commercial varieties. The fruit’s skin color varies throughout the season, changing from green when unripe to classic yellow when ready to eat. The fruits also vary in texture, depending on the variety you’re growing. Varieties While most people are familiar with the standard yellow Cavendish banana – the type most often sold in grocery stores – growing your own opens a new world of opportunities. There are so many types to choose from, allowing you to grow something more unique you wouldn’t be able to find in a standard store. Even if you’re not a massive banana fan, exploring these different varieties is sure to boost your appreciation of these useful plants. Planting The best time to plant is late spring or early summer once the soil has warmed sufficiently, creating the ideal conditions for fast root growth. Replicating the native environments of the banana plant is key to growing success, starting with the right location. Choose a spot in full sun if you want as many fruits as possible. The soil should also be well-draining and away from areas where rain collects, as waterlogged conditions can quickly lead to root rot in rainy seasons. Banana plants are also sensitive to high winds, which can tear their leaves, especially soon after planting, while they try to establish strong roots. Plant near a windbreak or provide some protection to preserve the plant’s appearance and health later on. When selecting a plant at the nursery, look for ones with small, spear-shaped leaves that indicate healthy young growth. Look at the roots if you can, and choose plants with plump, healthy growth rather than long and stringy roots. Plants should be spaced approximately 8 feet apart to allow room for growth without overcrowding. Dwarf varieties can be planted slightly closer together if needed, but it’s far better to give your bananas more room to grow than less. After planting, water thoroughly to settle the roots.