Culinary sage is more than an easy-care perennial herb that reliably provides you with aromatic sage leaves for cooking year after year; it's also an excellent companion plant for other garden crops. Here are 18 sage companion plants that will benefit and elevate your plants and garden as a whole. Companion Planting With Sage Good companion plants for sage fall into two broad categories: beneficial and good matches. Unlike other types of companion plants where benefits are mutual, in the case of sage the benefits usually go one way; sage is the one that is beneficial to other plants because sage itself is bothered by few pests. Sage aids in pest control by deterring certain pests from vulnerable plants and attracting beneficial insects and pollinators like butterflies and bees. In the second category of companion plants are crops that make a good match when planted as neighbors. These plants have similar growing conditions to sage, such as light, water, and fertilizer needs. The plants won't overgrow or shade sun-loving sage, and they don’t compete for space or nutrients. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! 01 of 18 Arugula Sage deters black flea beetles, a common pest of all members of the Brassica family. In leafy greens such as arugula, beetles chomping away at the plant is especially destructive. 02 of 18 Carrots Its strong scent makes sage an excellent companion plant for carrots. Its aroma masks the scent of carrot plants, so it's more difficult for carrot flies to find carrot plants. Carrot flies, also known as carrot rust flies, are small black flies that feed on the roots of carrots. 03 of 18 Kale Cabbage loopers, cabbageworms, and flea beetles attack all members of the Brassica family, and kale is no exception. The potent smell of sage with camphor as a key component tells pests to look elsewhere to breed and feed. 04 of 18 Radishes Though flea beetles feed on radish leaves and not on the bulbs, it is still a good idea to have sage growing as a companion near your radishes to deter the pest. Severely damaged foliage leads to stunted growth. 05 of 18 Broccoli Planting sage as a companion plant for broccoli is a way of biological pest control. The sage keeps cabbage moths away, and the fewer moths that lay their eggs on the broccoli leaves, the fewer cabbage worms will be on your broccoli later. 06 of 18 Brussels Sprouts Brussels sprouts are notorious victims of cabbage worms and cabbage looper moths. The moths of both can be deterred by sage plants nearby. 07 of 18 Cabbage Cruciferous vegetables, which include all types of cabbage, attract cabbage moths, which later hatch into voracious cabbage worms or cabbage loopers. As a deterrent, sage ranks top on the list of companion plants for cabbage. 08 of 18 Cauliflower Cauliflower is not the easiest vegetable to grow, partly because it is highly susceptible to cabbage worms and cabbage loopers. Sage plants help keep these pests away. 09 of 18 Collard Greens The holes in the leaves of collard greens are usually a dead giveaway that flea beetles have been feeding on the plant. The plants are also susceptible to cabbage loopers and cabbage worms. With sage as a companion plant, you can keep all three pests at bay in one fell swoop. 10 of 18 Bok Choi Bok choy, also known as Chinese cabbage, is a member of the Brassica family and attracts cabbage moths, which turn into cabbage worms in their larval stage, as well as flea beetles. Sage helps to deter both pests. 11 of 18 Kohlrabi Kohlrabi is a cool-weather crop, but that doesn't mean that there are no cabbage worms and flea beetles around. Sage works as a deterrent as long as there are fresh, green leaves on the plant. 12 of 18 Mustard Greens If you don't want the tender mustard greens to be riddled with holes from flea beetle feeding, plant a sage nearby. It will also help deter cabbage worms and cabbage loopers. 13 of 18 Turnip If you plan on harvesting tender young turnip greens, keep flea beetles away with a sage plant nearby. The camphor content in the leaves, which deters pests, decreases as the leaves mature so make sure to cut your sage regularly to encourage new, fresh foliage growth. 14 of 18 Strawberries There is more than one good reason to plant sage, preferably more than one, as a companion plant for strawberries. The strong scent of the leaves masks the smell of the plants for insects and predators. Plus, blooming sage attracts bees and other pollinators, improving the strawberry crop. 15 of 18 Lemon Balm Sage is a good companion plant for herbs with similar growing conditions, and lemon balm is one of them. It is also a perennial that thrives in full sun and requires little to moderate watering. 16 of 18 Oregano Oregano is considered a good companion plant for sage, especially in an herb garden with mostly perennial herbs. Both sage and oregano thrive in full sun and sandy soil and stand up to moderate drought. 17 of 18 Peppermint Peppermint is another good companion for sage because of similar growing conditions. However, because of its rampant growth, you need to keep peppermint from overgrowing sage, which stays much more compact and does not spread like peppermint. A good way to control peppermint is to plant it in a container with the bottom removed, which restrict its horizontal root growth. 18 of 18 Rosemary Rosemary and sage are a classic combo not only in the kitchen (and in song), but also in an herb garden. These sun-loving herbs are both members of the mint family and share the same growing requirements; once established, they are both drought-tolerant.

Ornamental peppers produce brilliantly colored fruit and look fantastic in garden spaces. While they are grown to be ornamental, they can also be eaten. In this comprehensive growing guide, Sarah Jay explains how to care for them. Ornamental peppers provide more than just eye candy. They’re also packed full of spice. While they aren’t the most pleasant or flavorful peppers, they provide a punch in any dish. So consider growing ornamental pepper plants this spring! Once you plant ornamental peppers, you can practically ignore them and they will thrive. Growing ornamental peppers, therefore, is an easy and rewarding experience. While you focus on the higher maintenance plants in your vegetable garden, your ornamental peppers pop with color. Whether it’s hot pepper flakes you’d like to include in a dish, or simply a splash of color with some heat, the colorful fruit of an ornamental pepper plant provides. If eating the fruit of the pepper plants isn’t your style, know they’re great in pest deterrent sprays and landscapes. So, let’s discuss growing ornamental peppers, and cover a few different types you can seek out for your spring planting. What are Ornamental Peppers? The ornamental pepper plant (Capsicum annuum) has many different varieties and, thus, multiple common names. Ornamental pepper plants are tender perennials often grown as annuals. Native Area Most ornamental peppers originate in southern North America, the Caribbean, and northern South America. Ornamental peppers made their way to Europe in the 15th century and were prized as showy, colorful garden plants. Today, they’re known as Christmas plants due to their bright fruit that makes them an excellent addition to floral arrangements and as a bedding plant in ornate landscapes. They’re also great container plants. Whether you want to eat them or not, they’re sure to be a hit. Characteristics The ornamental pepper is a dense, round shrub with alternate, ovate dark purple to deep green leaves. It’s a bushier plant with green branches that reach anywhere from six inches to three feet tall and spread eight to twenty-four inches wide. The compact plants bloom inconspicuous off-white flowers – sometimes with a purple tint – that require pollination either by hand or from bumblebees. The flowers bloom in the late spring, and with successful pollination, peppers form within four months. They resemble Christmas lights in an upright position. Pepper colors range from bright red, yellow, orange, green, or deep purple. The root ball of ornamental pepper is small and shallow. As the weather cools in early fall, ornamental peppers stop producing, and they die back in frost. Those not exposed to frost will survive throughout the year. Most people grow ornamental peppers for non-culinary reasons, but they work very well in bean dishes, salsas, and hot sauces. Anywhere you need an extra kick, these peppers deliver. Some people are unpleasantly surprised when they take a pepper off the ornamental plants and take a bite. That’s because there’s more punch than flavor involved when you eat ornamental peppers. Varieties ‘Chilly Chili’ peppers ‘Chilly Chili’ peppers grow on a dense plant with green leaves that reach one foot tall and spread six to ten inches wide. The plant produces upright, slender red, orange, and yellow fruit that, at their hottest, have the same amount of spice as a poblano. This chili plant grows well in prepared ground or containers. ‘Prairie Fire’ peppers ‘Prairie Fire’ pepper plants are great for hanging baskets, containers, or the ground due to their low-lying nature. They’ll fit into almost any landscape at a height of eight inches and a spread of one foot. The densely arranged dark green leaves are punctuated by stout red, yellow, orange, purple, and cream-colored peppers. If you want to use them in the kitchen, know they are just as spicy as Thai peppers and ten times the heat of jalapenos. ‘Bolivian Rainbow’ peppers ‘Bolivian Rainbow’ peppers are just as lovely as the name suggests. They’re taller than the previous ornamental peppers we’ve mentioned, which are two feet tall. The slender leaves are accented by Christmas light-shaped peppers that are purple, bright red, orange, and yellow. These have a cayenne-level heat. ‘Black Pearl’ peppers ‘Black Pearl’ peppers grow on a plant with dark green leaves that is 18 inches wide and tall. The fruit is the origin of the common name for this pepper plant, as it turns from a bright red to a deep, almost black purple. Black pearl peppers also pack cayenne-level heat and add a touch of spicy darkness to a garden or a dish. ‘Medusa’ peppers ‘Medusa’ ornamental peppers are very small and make excellent bedding plants or container plantings. They reach a mere six to eight inches tall, and have peppers that are ivory white when they first form, then deepen to a yellow, orange, and finally bright red. These peppers are great for children’s gardens because they don’t pack nearly the same punch as the others we’ve mentioned. ‘Numex Easter’ peppers ‘Numex Easter’ peppers are lovely and produce fruits that cluster together in fours. Pepper colors range from white to pale yellow, light purple, orange, and red. The leaves are dark green and sit atop stems that reach eight inches high and spread ten inches wide. They’re lovely in hanging baskets and container plantings and pack a pretty hefty heat. ‘Sangria’ peppers ‘Sangria’ peppers are lovely vibrant specimens that grow red peppers that turn reddish-purple late in the season. The ‘Sangria’ plant type grows peppers bred for their intensely colored fruit, and their hues pop out among the deep green foliage. The height and spread of these plants are 16 and 18 inches, respectively. ‘Sangria’ plants have hot peppers that are about the same heat as cayenne. And Sangria is great indoors, outdoors, in the ground, or in containers. Planting To grow ornamental peppers, plant seeds in well-drained soil enriched with organic matter. They prefer warmer temperatures and a sunny location. Regular watering is crucial, but avoid overwatering to prevent root rot. Once established, the plants are relatively drought-tolerant. How to Grow Once you’ve chosen your preferred plant, it’s time to focus on growing ornamental peppers. Here are the basic tenets of working with these lovely plants. Maintenance The only reason to prune ornamental peppers is to attain the desired shape and remove diseased or damaged leaves. You can never trim flowering stems, but feel free to trim stems after they grow to six to eight inches to promote a bushier appearance. The increase in leaves will also assist in producing healthier fruit. If you plan to overwinter the plant, cut it a few inches above the ground in late fall. Then cover it with mulch to retain moisture in dormancy.

Ammi is a lovely little plant that looks great in the garden with its feathery foliage and lacy flower umbels. It's also a wonderful addition to the cutting garden. Gardening expert Melissa Strauss has the lowdown on growing this pretty plant in your garden. If you’ve ever admired the look of delicate Queen Anne’s lace flowers bouncing around by the roadside, I’ve got the perfect flower for you. Cut flower gardeners, stay tuned because if you’re not growing ammi, you must plant some. Let’s talk about this pretty plant that makes a wonderful cut flower and all-around beauty in the garden. What is Ammi? Ammi, also known as False Queen Anne’s lace, is a delightful little annual considered to be ‘self-sowing.’ That means you only have to plant it once, and as long as you leave some seed heads on to dry, this plant will stick around for years. While it bears a striking resemblance to Queen Anne’s lace, it has a distinct advantage. You won’t find this species on the invasive species list anywhere in the United States. This easy-to-care-for flowering annual adds a ton of texture and personality to the summer garden. It also makes a stellar addition to the cutting garden for much the same reason. At least one species carries the prestigious Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society. Let’s talk about what is so special about amiable ammi and how you can grow it at home. History Historically, this plant was well regarded for its medicinal applications. The name is one given to this plant long ago by the Greek physician and botanist Pedanius Dioscorides. The name comes from the Greek word for sand, which is where the plant commonly grows in the wild. Other names over the years include visnaga, meaning doubly-pointed. German botanist Adam Lonicerus wrote that ammi is a hot, dry plant. This made it a treatment for ailments thought to be the result of cold conditions. Native Area This flowering member of the Apiaceae family hails from the Mediterranean Basin. The native area includes parts of Europe, southwestern Asia, and northern Africa. It grows in mainly temperate climates and is thought to have originated in the Nile River Valley. Characteristics You could easily mistake plants in the Ammi species for Queen Anne’s lace, or Daucus carota. In fact, some varieties of Daucus share the same common name due to the similarity of their appearance. However, alike as they are in appearance, the two are not closely related. Queen Anne’s lace is a form of wild carrot, while ammi is in the same family, but a different genus. There are about six known species in the genus. This flower has wonderful, delicate, fernlike foliage. Leaves grow both from the base of the plant and up the sides of the stems. The leaf structure is similar to dill or fennel, with thin branching structures. This textural element looks beautiful mixed with broadleaf neighbors. The flower umbels sit high atop slender, but strong stems. They range in diameter up to about three inches wide. When they first appear, the flowers in the bud are pale green, as is the foliage. As they open they reveal a mass of tiny, white flowers that look like lace. It is often referred to as lace flower. When left to dry on the plant, the flowers will go to seed and this plant will re-seed itself effectively. Uses The Ancient Egyptians used the flower as a medicinal preparation. It’s used as an antioxidant, antifungal, and antibacterial, as well as for treating skin ailments, kidney stones, and gallbladder stones. The stems were also fashioned into toothpicks. The ripened seeds have also been useful for treating menstrual irregularities and leprosy. Today, it’s primarily an ornamental. It makes a striking border, particularly when combined with other textures. It is well-loved in the floristry trade for its lacey appearance, which adds airy beauty to floral arrangements. Many people love this flower as a dried floral, as it retains its shape well with stiff stems and umbels. Where to Buy As an annual, it is most often grown from seed. The seeds are not difficult to find, as this is a popular plant. Planting In warmer climates, sow your seeds in the fall for larger plants earlier in the season. In cooler climates, start your seeds indoors one to two weeks before your last frost date and transplant as soon as the soil is workable. However, this plant prefers direct sowing in the garden. This plant is surprisingly cold-tolerant and will survive some frost. You can also plant these seeds every two weeks for a longer flowering period in the summer. You’ll want your plants spaced about one foot apart to give them room to spread out. They may ultimately need staking or some other type of support, as they get quite tall and the stems are thin. Give them some protection from strong winds that can blow them over. Avoid areas with poor drainage, or more than partial shade. How to Grow Ammi is a fairly low-maintenance plant. Once you get the hang of it, it’s a big bloomer that will provide an abundance of flowers for about four to six weeks during the summer. It prefers cool weather and will do much of its growing in the spring. Maintenance This lacy bloomer doesn’t require much maintenance. It is, however, considered a cut-and-come-again plant. To maximize the blooming season, cut the flowers as often as you’d like. The more you cut them, the more flowers the plants will ultimately produce. The plants tend to get rather tall, and in some cases, they may require support. To keep your plants from falling over from strong winds or heavy rain, it’s good to give them a hand in this area. Staking is an effective way to support your plants, and you can also use nets or wire supports.