’Jubilee’ bush watermelons bring exceptional sweetness on a compact, bushy form. Versatile across garden scales, including in pots and small spaces, the dwarf variety makes growing the hallmark fruits of summer achievable. Garden expert Katherine Rowe explores the merits of ‘Jubilee’ bush to highlight the warm season. ’Jubilee’ bush watermelons celebrate the flavor of summer. The dwarf melons boast superior sweetness on compact vines. Made for hot weather, the relative of a favorite southern heirloom stands up to heat and humidity for refreshing rewards on long summer days. An excellent melon for hot climates, ‘Jubilee’ bush is also a space-saving option with shorter vines and smaller fruits than the classically large oblongs. They’re a fit for containers and raised beds, and can grow vertically to free up ground space. ‘Jubilee’ bush expands the options for growing sweet, juicy fruits across climates and garden situations. Savor the delicious taste of summer by planting now and enjoying them later in the season. What are ‘Jubilee’ Bush Watermelons? ‘Jubilee’ bush is a prized watermelon variety for its flavor, manageable size, and ability to withstand heat and humidity with good production and disease resistance. Its high sugar content makes it a sweet selection among bush types, which aren’t always as sweet, juicy, and tender as their full-size counterparts. ‘Jubilee’ bush has lineage in the favorite heirloom ‘Jubilee’, a result of several crosses introduced by the Florida Agricultural Experiment Station in the early 1960s. ‘Jubilee’ is tops for its large, flavorful melons and resistance to wilt and anthracnose, setting it up for good yields in humid conditions. Like all melons, ‘Jubilee’ bush is in the Cucurbitaceae family along with squashes and cucumbers. Watermelons are long-maturing, soaking in the warmth and sun of summer days as they fill and sweeten. Characteristics ‘Jubilee’ bush produces light green, oval fruits with dark striping. The bright red flesh has a fine, crisp texture to complement the sweet taste. Ready for harvesting in about 90 days, ‘Jubilee’ bush produces three to five fruits per plant. The oval melons weigh 10 to 13 pounds, as compared to the 35-pounders of the standard ‘Jubilee,’ which reach over two feet long. The manageable vines spread three to five feet with resistance to common cucurbit diseases of Fusarium wilt and anthracnose. Native Area Citrullus lanatus is native to North Africa, with wild ancestors in southern Africa and the Kalahari Desert. The drought-tolerant species weren’t necessarily sweet, but they contained water for hydration. The fruits made their way to Egypt, where cultivation began for improvements in water content and sweetness. The ancient watermelons even appear in tombs in painted depictions and as physical seeds. The crop later presents in historical references in Israel, Ancient Rome, China, and Europe. The fruits traveled through colonization and the slave trade from Africa, making their way to North America. Cultivation dedicated to disease-resistant, table quality crops heightened during the last century and continues to innovate. Warm, sun-drenched growing conditions remain essential for their development. Planting In the ground, direct sow watermelon seeds or seedlings into low mounds to improve air circulation, drainage, and minimize damp conditions that lead to disease issues. Mounding also reduces root and vine competition for moisture, nutrients, and sunlight. Two to three vines planted in low, 16-inch tall mounds give vining stems room to run while elevating the crowns. Allow six to seven feet between mounds for vines to run.

Would you like to grow your own delicious, healthy bananas at home? ‘Dwarf Cavendish’ banana trees are fairly easy to grow, especially if you live in a warm climate, and they can produce harvestable bananas each year. If you’re not sure how to care for a tropical banana species, no worries. Plant biologist Emily Estep will walk you through everything you need to know. The ‘Dwarf Cavendish’ banana tree has been prized for its fruit since the 19th century, and there’s no reason why you can’t carry on the tradition at home. You can grow these tropical plants outdoors in warmer regions or indoors as houseplants. With a pseudostem that starts with a rhizome, these plants get taller and taller as each new leaf grows. The leaves initially have eye-catching red and purple splotches that fade as the leaves age. The central stalks can get up to 10 feet tall before they fruit. These plants are excellent beginner tropicals, as they’re fun and easy to grow. The fact that you can harvest grocery-store-tier bananas from them is a huge bonus. What Is It? M. acuminata ‘Dwarf Cavendish’ is a banana tree cultivar with quite a history. Bananas are one of the world’s oldest cultivated fruits, with cultivation dating back to 8000 B.C. Originally native to Asia, the 6th Duke of Devonshire — William Cavendish — received a gift of bananas in the early 1800s. Though the exact timeline is murky, Cavendish then cultivated and sent the bananas around the Pacific, and the spread of bananas continued. Over time, bananas have become one of the world’s most important staple crops, and if you live in the right climate, you can grow bananas in your yard. These self-pollinating banana trees produce bunches of edible bananas. They’re perennial to USDA zones 8-11, but in cooler regions, grow them in pots and bring them indoors during winter. Characteristics Dwarf Cavendish is an attractive banana tree with new leaves that emerge with purple or red mottling that fades to green as they mature. This perennial plant will come back year after year when in good health, whether you keep it outdoors all year long or maintain it as a houseplant. Relatively easygoing, self-pollinating banana trees should produce fruit each year, and it’s possible for them to fruit in their first year of planting, even when started from a rhizome, in model surroundings. These trees are normally grown for their prized bananas, but they make a lovely landscape plant or houseplant, even without the fruit. Native Area M. acuminata is most likely native to Southeast Asia and India, though its original range may have extended all the way to northern Australia. Its true native range is somewhat difficult to narrow down because bananas have been cultivated for thousands of years. The ‘Dwarf Cavendish’ cultivar was first grown in the greenhouses of Chatsworth House in 19th century England. Planting In zones 8-11, plant Dwarf Cavendish in a sunny area with loamy, fertile, well-draining soil. You can either purchase a young Dwarf Cavendish tree or start from a rhizome. A pseudostem will emerge from the rhizome, followed by big, tropical leaves. Consider that these trees can grow up to 10 feet tall, potentially shading out nearby plants when choosing a location. In cooler zones, Plant these banana trees in large containers and move them indoors when it gets cold. Though it may take a part-time houseplant banana tree longer to grow, don’t forget how tall it may eventually become. If planting in a pot or container, consider placing it on wheels to move it around easily, as moving the plant can be cumbersome.

Growing basil (Ocimum basilicum) is not difficult, as long as you know how to water it. The schedule may vary depending on your climate and whether you have it planted indoors or outside. Generally, this perennial herb does well in warm climates and thrives in full sun. However, it still likes moist, well-drained soil. "Just like an outdoor garden, every indoor growing space is unique," says Jordan Mara, founder of Mind & Soil. "Rather than having a strict watering schedule, focus on paying more attention to the foliage and soil to determine whether the plant is in need of its next watering." Here is everything you need to know about basil watering needs. Meet the Expert Jordan Mara is the founder of Mind & Soil. When to Water Basil Basil loves moist soil, so it makes sense to give the herb infrequent deep waterings instead of daily shallow watering. The reason for this approach? You want the water to penetrate at least 2 inches of soil so it won't dry out as quickly through evaporation. "Additionally, this trains the roots of the plant to search down more deeply for water, creating a larger root system," Mara says. A mature plant will likely need a good deep watering once a week, but of course this might depend on the environment, especially if the basil is planted inside. "This is because the light source is not as intense as the sun and there is generally less airflow indoors," Mara says. "As a result of a less intense light source and less wind, the soil will not dry up as quickly." For outdoor basil gardens, Mara says the best time of day to water basil that grows outside is either first thing in the morning or in evening. "Avoid watering in the middle of the day as the water will evaporate most quickly at this time and water on the leaves can result in burning from the sun," he says. Basil Water Schedule: Indoors and Outdoors Like with most plants, the frequency of watering depends on the amount of light, temperature, humidity, soil type, and potting container. The main thing to keep in mind when it comes to basil is that it likes moisture. As a rule of thumb, you want to aim to water once a week, however, if your basil is potted indoors, you may want to increase watering to every two to four days as the water may evaporate quicker. This approach also applies to basil in pots, even if it is outside. Unlike basil that grows in the ground, potted basil can dry out faster. "This is because rather than only the top of the soil being dried out by sun and wind, now all sides of the pot are being exposed to the sun and wind," Mara explains. "As such, evaporation now occurs from all directions." However, it's important to keep in mind that every environment is going to be different. Brown recommends focusing on paying attention to the actual foliage of your plant and digging down two inches into the soil rather than a fixed schedule. Light Basil loves sunlight. It grows exceptionally well when exposed to about six to eight hours of light each day. Keep in mind that even though this herb loves the sunshine, if you have direct midday sun, it may dry it out too quickly. Ideally, basil should have full morning sun that isn't too intense. If you notice that the leaves are pale green, instead of vibrant green, that means the herb may not be getting enough light. If your potted basil is indoors, move it to a sunnier location. Temperature and Humidity Very warm temperatures are quite hospitable to basil. You will have a full plant when the temperatures range between 80 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature goes above 95 degrees Fahrenheit, the plant may undergo stress and the leaves may dry out. In that case, increase the watering frequency and create artificial shade. If the temperature drops to around 50 degrees Fahrenheit, the basil will not do well and the leaves may blacken. Anything below 45 degrees Fahrenheit is likely to harm your herb. When it comes to humidity, basil will thrive when the levels are somewhere between 40 and 60 percent. Indoor humidity is typically around 30 and 60 percent, so your window sill planters of herbs should do just fine. Soil Type Basil does well in well-draining soil. You can purchase vegetable and herb potting mix for both your planters and garden beds. If you have your soil tested for pH levels, basil will grow well in the 6.0 to 7.5 range. Potting Container Basil loves well-draining soil, so make sure that if you are using a planter, it has well-draining holes. You do not want the basil roots to sit in water. Also, make sure that your potting container has ample space for roots, a large pot that is at least 9 inches deep and 12 inches wide is a good start. Basil does especially well in raised beds or containers because both offer drainage and a welcoming environment that retains heat. This is particularly helpful in the spring when the plant is establishing. How Basil Plants Hold Water Basil is a humidity-loving plant and can absorb moisture through its leaves. This means you can mist the herb, in addition to providing it with plenty of water. The plant uses its roots to drink up water, but too much water around the roots can cause them to rot. For deep watering, Mara suggests the following: use a watering can or the shower setting on your hose and begin watering the soil all around where the stem enters the ground. If possible, avoid watering the leaves and only water the foliage. Once the water begins to pool, move on to your other plants and return to the basil plant after two to three minutes. Dig down 2 inches again to check and see if it's moist. If it is, you're all finished. However, if it is not moist 2 inches down, do a second round of watering. Repeat this process until the soil is moist 2 inches below the surface. Signs Your Basil Plant Is Underwatered Sad, sagging leaves are a sign that basil needs more water. If the plant is wilting, find a watering can pronto. You should also look at the soil level, if it is dry at the two inches level, it is time to water, Mara recommends. Here is what you should look for. Wilting leaves Sagging and drooping stems Dry soil at the base of the plant Remember, basil needs at least 1 inch of water every week to stay healthy and thrive. Signs Your Basil Plant Is Overwatered According to Mara, if your basil plant's leaves start to show brown or black spots, it is a sign that you are overwatering. Keep an eye out for the following. Brown spots Wilting stems Yellow leaves at the base of the plant Foul soil smell (a sign of root rot) Note that brown spots on leaves could also mean that the environment is too cold for the basil. (You'll also see this happen in the fridge if the temperature is too low). Store herbs in a crisper or in the front of the fridge if this is the case.