Blue thimble flower pockets West Coast landscapes every spring. It erupts with blue flower clusters that look like pincushions, attracting birds, butterflies, and bees into your yard. Plant this annual wildflower in sunny borders, wild gardens, or raised beds. Native wildflowers are excellent choices for empty soil. They thrive with little maintenance or care, providing endless blooms with few inputs. Blue thimble flower, also known as Gilia capitata, is one such native wildflower—it’s drought hardy, full sun tolerant, and adapts to many different soil types. I first saw this plant at a native plant garden in Oregon. It burst into bloom in midsummer, with dozens of bees flocking to its flowers. At that moment, I knew this was a wildflower to treasure. I collected some seeds and sowed them in my garden. Now I have annual blue globe-shaped blossoms every summer! It’s that simple. Blue thimble flower thrives throughout meadows, grasslands, and chaparral landscapes in the western United States. Find it naturally amongst common madia, native grasses, and California poppies. It comes to fruition in late spring or midsummer as ephemeral wildflowers fade. Plant it in the same area as checkermallow, western spring beauty, or large leaf avens to stagger continuous blooms. Whether you’re new to native wildflowers or a seasoned enthusiast, the blue thimble flower is a wonderful plant for West Coast gardeners. Consider adding it wherever you have full sun and good drainage. What Is It? The blue thimble flower is an annual wildflower in the phlox family. It is a close relative of “bird’s eyes,” another California native plant in the genus Gilia. It also goes by the names blue gilia and globe gilia. Each spring, seeds germinate into little clusters of fancy, dissected foliage. The leaves resemble divided parsley leaves at first glance—look closer and you’ll notice your blue thimble flower’s foliage is lacier and more succulent than parsley. Native Area Find blue thimble flowers flourishing from British Columbia south through California, and east to the Rocky Mountains. They prefer locales with six to eight hours of direct sunlight. This means they thrive in meadows, as well as in valleys, chaparral ecosystems, and rocky hillsides. These wildflowers prefer warm temperatures to set flowers and seeds. As days grow longer, blue thimble flowers grow taller. They adapt to clay soils, although they benefit from additional shade and drainage when growing in clay. Characteristics Gilia flowers are one of the greatest pollinator magnets! Their flower clusters contain loads of blue pollen and nectar; native bees, bugs, and birds flock to them for sustenance. If your vegetable garden is low on pollinators, this is a good annual to sow amongst them. As they bloom, they’ll help bugs pollinate your crops. Delightful wildflowers are often easy to care for; this species is no different. Plants reseed readily on bare soils at the end of their lifetimes. Do not fret if you notice your plants dying after they form seeds—that is a part of these annuals’ natural life cycle. They bloom, form seeds, and then die before winter cold arrives. Because they are reseeding annuals, these wildflowers don’t function well with competition. They typically grow year to year in areas where their seeds readily access light, soil, and water. Where perennials thrive, they may overshadow young thimble seedlings and prevent them from germinating. Planting Blue thimble flowers flourish wherever they grow—they work well in containers, raised beds, borders, or wild plantings. So long as they receive good drainage, low water, and full sun, these annuals will pop up every spring from seeds. These wildflowers don’t grow over three feet, so you can plant them in small or large spaces. Some species they work well with are sunflowers, purple coneflowers, and western buttercups. These plants aren’t overly competitive, and they’ll leave some bare soil so the seeds can germinate. Growing from Seed Seed sowing is the easiest way to start this wildflower. Sow seeds in spring or fall on bare soil—you can lightly cover them to keep them in place with an eighth-inch layer of soil, although this isn’t necessary. Blue thimble flowers naturally reseed themselves on the surface. Once you’ve broadcast your seeds, water the area well. Fall-sown seeds will germinate earlier than spring-sown ones. Determine whether you’d like early, late, or continuous blooms, and sow accordingly. Find these seeds alone, or in wildflower mixes. They often make up wonderful pollinator mixes with other native phlox, sunflowers, and wallflowers. Transplanting Don’t worry if you missed seed sowing, as you can often find these annuals in pots at nurseries before they bloom. Transplant young plants without blooms into your garden from spring to early summer. Dig a hole as deep and twice as wide as the root ball. Then, put the roots in the hole and backfill until soil covers them. Water the soil well to help your transplants establish themselves. After a week or two of consistent watering, you can cut back on your schedule. Overwatering established gilia causes root rot; avoid this by watering less as these wildflowers begin to bloom. How to Grow Blue thimble flowers grow easily from seeds. They’re so prolific, they’ve spread and naturalized in some regions in the eastern United States! Care is so simple that you’ll wonder why you don’t have these wildflowers in your garden already. Light These native flowers appreciate full sun—they need six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily. They’ll grow in partial shade, but not as well as if they’re under full sun. The only time you’ll want to choose partial shade is if your soil is clay; in clay soil, these wildflowers benefit from some shade from the afternoon sun. Water Blue thimble flower is a low-moisture plant. It survives harsh direct sun and drought throughout its native range. These wildflowers often take advantage of spring or early summer rains, soaking up the water. They then bloom and set seeds for the next generation before dying back. You’ll want to simulate these natural conditions within your garden. Water if early spring rains are absent; don’t water if you have continuous spring rainfall. These plants need considerably less water as they flower and set seeds, so you may not have to water while plants grow and bloom. In the native plant garden near my home, these annuals survive without additional irrigation through the summer. Soil Gilia plants must have adequate soil drainage to survive. They function poorly in waterlogged, boggy, or moist soils. Plant them in sandy or rocky locales where water drains freely. They benefit from some organic matter in the soil but rarely need extra fertilizer. Mulch or compost benefits these native flowers—apply it once or twice a year around the plants’ stems during spring or summer. A top layer of mulch simulates organic matter in the wild that naturally falls and decays around established plants. Avoid placing compost down after this plant has sown seeds in the fall, as a thick layer of organic matter can stifle germination next spring. Fertilizing Fertilizer is not necessary! Compost or mulch applications once or twice a year supply the nutrients this wildflower needs to survive. Maintenance You have control over this plant’s life cycle in your garden. Deadhead spent blooms to force new blue pincushion flowers. Deadheading tricks the plants by convincing them they haven’t produced seeds yet. They’ll keep blooming until winter frost arrives. Deadheading also prevents self-sowing. If you’d rather this wildflower not spread, cut spent blooms before they drop seeds. Propagation Annuals don’t typically propagate like other plants–you can’t take cuttings or divisions of this native species. The main way they reproduce is through self-sown seeds. Utilize these seeds to influence where they germinate.

Instead of ripening to a deep purple-blue, ‘Pink Lemonade’ berries turn a dark pink or almost red when they are ready to eat, making them a colorful and unique addition to your edible garden. Gardening expert Madison Moulton explains everything you need to know about growing and harvesting ‘Pink Lemonade’ blueberries. If you haven’t started growing blueberries yet, you’re really missing out. The berries are a delectable snack, and they work with so many recipes in the kitchen. The plants also have a unique ornamental value in your landscape. Blueberries are ideal shrubs for almost any position in the garden, from beds to containers. They make perfect edible hedges if you want to foodscape your garden, and they can grow on patios in small spaces. When it comes to ornamental value, you certainly can’t go wrong with the ‘Pink Lemonade’ variety, known for its colorful berries. These shrubs are not difficult to grow or manage. Just follow this guide to find out how. What are ‘Pink Lemonade’ Blueberries? ‘Pink Lemonade’ is not your typical blueberry, particularly when it comes to the word blue in the name. That’s because the berries on this bush are actually pink! Like most blueberries, they start out green and then blush pink. But instead of ripening to a deep purple-blue, these berries turn dark pink or almost red when they are ready to eat. They also set themselves apart when it comes to flavor. The berries are distinctly blueberries but with a subtle citrusy taste, hence the hybrid name ‘Pink Lemonade.’ The bush is a rabbiteye cross developed by plant geneticist Mark K. Ehlenfeldt. He crossed a commercial blueberry with an experimental variety, eventually coming up with ‘Pink Lemonade’ in 1996 and releasing it to the public in 2005. This variety’s unique look makes it sought-after for its ornamental value. The edible berries are obviously the highlight, but the changing foliage and blush pink flowers mean they’re good for more than just harvesting. These shrubs also look great in the garden, ideal for things like foodscaping or food forests. In the kitchen, ‘Pink Lemonade’ blueberries are known for their high sugar content. They are one of the sweetest blueberries you can grow, perfect for snacking fresh. They also work well in desserts or preserves, but it will be hard to resist eating them immediately as you pick them off the bush. Planting Blueberries are not fussy shrubs and adapt well to a range of environments. However, planting them in the ideal location will greatly simplify care and ensure your plant can focus on producing delicious berries. When it comes to climate, this hybrid can grow almost anywhere. They don’t like temperature extremes but grow well in USDA Zones 4-9. Milder conditions are preferred for the best possible yield, but a little warmth or frost isn’t a problem for this shrub. Before planting, you need to assess the soil carefully. Blueberries are acid-loving plants that require a low pH to grow successfully. If you don’t know your soil pH, conduct tests before planting. You should aim for a pH of around 4.5. Amend the soil if it’s below 4 or above 5.5. Once you’ve purchased your tree, give it some time to adjust to your garden environment before planting to limit stress. You can do this by: Keeping the plant in its container and placing it in a shady, sheltered area away from high winds. Ensuring it’s watered adequately – the soil should be moist but not waterlogged. Monitoring the plant for any signs of distress and allow it to adjust for a few days before planting. Plant within seven days after receiving the tree. Start by digging a hole about twice as wide as the root ball and a similar depth, encouraging the roots to grow outwards and establish in the soil. Plant and backfill with soil, pressing down gently around the roots to settle the plant in place. Water thoroughly and apply a layer of pine needle mulch around 3-4 inches thick around the base after planting. If you’re planting multiple blueberries – which is recommended to improve yield through cross-pollination – space the bushes around 5 feet apart. This will accommodate their mature size and limit problems with overcrowding or possible disease.

Are you looking for seriously delicious berries to grow this year? If so, try planting tayberries for their bountiful harvests and easy-to-maintain nature. In this article, plant expert Matt Dursum covers how to plant, grow, and care for tayberries. Tayberries are delicious, sweet, and juicy, with refreshing tartness and great texture. They’re even sweeter than loganberries and have a very berry-like flavor that almost resembles a dark blackberry wine. Like blackberries and raspberries, they’re incredibly easy to grow in many climates throughout the US. They produce a massive harvest in mid-summer. Enjoy them raw right off the vine or use them in jams, sauces, or fruit wines. Grow these beautiful berries wherever you grow blackberries and raspberries. They’ll thrive with very little maintenance and provide tons of fresh fruit for very little effort. Let’s dive into more about these wonderful plants and their mouth-watering fruit. What Is It? Tayberries are a cross between blackberries and red raspberries. They share many characteristics with the two plant species. They have a sweet and tart flavor that’s hard not to adore, especially on a warm summer day. These berries grow on long canes, which are covered in sharp thorns, similar to many varieties of blackberries. The canes radiate from the central plant and are easy to control. Tayberries produce larger fruits than blackberries or raspberries, which can get to over an inch long. Because they’re more delicate than their parent species, they have almost no commercial value other than novelty jams and wines. Characteristics Tayberry plants produce fruit on 2-year-old canes. After producing fruit, these canes will naturally die back. New canes will grow from the central plant and be ready for fruiting the following year. Unlike some species of blackberries, tayberries are easy to control. They work great as natural hedges or edible border crops. Their canes will grow up to 6 feet in length, with some individuals growing larger in the right conditions. The fruits appear red to dark purple. The darker berries tend to have the most sweetness, while the red berries have higher acidity. The fruits are actually aggregate fruits, meaning they’re made up of tiny druplets, each with a seed inside. Besides their delicious fruit, these berries attract beneficial pollinators to your garden. They’re also one of the prized species on the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit list. Native Area Tayberries were first introduced to the world in Scotland at the Scottish Horticultural Research Institute. In 1980, horticulturist Derek Jennings crossed a European raspberry with an Aurora blackberry plant. After creating the new hybrid, he named it after the River Tay in Scotland. The plant quickly gained popularity throughout the UK. Soon, growers brought tayberries to the US, where they took off in the Pacific Northwest. Their parents originated in Europe. Other species of brambles are native throughout the world. They grow in cooler regions with heavy moisture and temperate climates. People have been eating and cultivating brambles for thousands of years as food and medicine. Planting Planting tayberries is incredibly easy and similar to raspberries and blackberries. They’re less likely to grow uncontrollably than many popular blackberry varieties. Tayberries are trailing types of brambles that grow best on trellises. Plant them with plenty of space from other individuals to avoid overcrowding. Grow them in garden beds or around your garden borders. They’ll flourish as long as the soil is well-drained and full of organic material. Plant them with other sun-loving berries or brambles for a productive edible garden.