The 'Texas Pink' pomegranate is known for its bright fruits and classic sweet but tart taste. Gardening expert Madison Moulton explains the guidelines for planting and growing these trees correctly in your own garden. If you want to get as much ornamental value out of your edible garden as you do produce, pomegranate is the tree for you. They are not the most common fruit trees around, but their beauty throughout the seasons and juicy fruits make them well worth planting. ‘Texas Pink’ pomegranates are known for their vivid fruits. But did you know that their flowers and branches are also incredibly eye-catching in the garden? Plus, these trees are resilient and wonderfully low-maintenance, perfect for beginners in fruit cultivation. Once you’ve decided on growing a ‘Texas Pink’ pomegranate, follow this guide to ensure masses of fruits season after season. What Is It? This cultivar produces delicious, juicy fruits, but its popularity often comes down to its impressive ornamental value. Shaped into a shrub or small tree and growing to a height of around 15 feet, ‘Texas Pink’ is bound to stand out, whether you plant it in the ground or in a container. As its name suggests, the fruit is distinguished by its vivid pink hue, both outside and in. The arils are sweet and juicy, perfect for eating fresh or tossing into salads. The fruit’s outer skin adds a pop of color to the garden and makes great fall décor inside your home over the holidays, too. And when there aren’t any fruits to harvest, you can enjoy the orange-red intricate blooms in spring. This variety thrives in USDA Zones 7-11, making it a suitable choice for warmer regions that match their native habitats (particularly those with hot summers where other fruit trees may struggle). This pomegranate is tough, handling both heat and drought well. Planting While adaptable, ‘Texas Pink’ grows best when given a strong start in the right location. So before you make your purchase, ensure this variety is suitable for your climate and that you have an ideal spot for planting (lighting, soil). It’s also helpful to give your tree time to acclimate to your environment after purchasing and before planting, but don’t wait more than a week to get the tree into the ground. The ideal planting spot should protect the tree from strong winds, which can damage branches and prevent strong establishing soon after planting. If possible, position it near a south-facing wall or fence to provide extra warmth and shelter. The best time to plant pomegranates is in spring, giving the tree time to establish before the summer heat sets in. For those in cooler climates, wait until the soil has warmed and there is no chance of frost. Pomegranates don’t appreciate cold.

Iceberg Lettuce is one of the most common vegetables used around the world. Due to it's extreme popularity, many gardeners look to add them to their own garden. In this article, organic gardening expert Logan Hailey walks through every step you'll need to follow in order to plant, grow, and care for iceberg lettuce in your garden. Iceberg lettuce isn’t the trendiest or sexiest vegetable by any means. In fact, it’s been the brunt of many jokes in recent years for its bland, pale leaves slathered in fast food salad dressing. But garden-grown lettuces have historical roots far more interesting and palatable. In fact, the cultivation of lettuce goes way back to ancient Egypt and was even pictured in early Egyptian tomb paintings along with the god of fertility. The leafy crisp green has been ubiquitous in salads and even herbal medicine for thousands of years. Iceberg types are a more recent breeding innovation from the 1920s, which have been continuously improved by small garden seed companies in recent decades. Iceberg lettuce is easy to grow, full of nutrition, and far more delicious than the tasteless, watered-down industrial types. Given its bad reputation in modern times, there’s lots of reasons to grow your own lettuce. For one, garden grown iceberg lettuce is way more nutritious. You can also be sure that it hasn’t been treated with any toxic pesticides so common in conventional lettuce farming. Furthermore, it is way more flavorful. There are many garden iceberg varieties that are so loaded with flavor and texture that you’ll be surprised they’re even related to that bland wedge salad at a chain restaurant. It’s time to upgrade your salads and sandwiches with crisp lettuce grown straight from the garden. Let’s dig into how to plant, grow, and care for this infamous hydrating salad green. History and Cultivation ceberg lettuce is one of the most popular types of lettuce grown in the United States. While many cool-weather lettuces cannot handle warm conditions, iceberg lettuce tolerates some heat as well as some cold. Though most of it is grown in California, it is in fact a widely adapted crop that can be grown in gardens from USDA zones 1 to 11. It also has a fascinating history dating all the way back to ancient Egypt. What is Iceberg Lettuce? Iceberg lettuce is an annual vegetable variety of crisp head lettuce known for its pastel green leaves, white interior, and cabbage-like shape. Like all lettuces, it is a member of the Asteraceae or daisy family. The many layers of ruffles and ripples inside the lettuce heads make it attractive for many types of salads, and the large textured leaves taste great layered into sandwiches. Iceberg lettuce got its name from the way the lettuce was originally packed and transported when it first became popular in the 1920s. Produce companies would cover the heads in crushed ice, making them appear like little icebergs as they made their way via trains to grocery stores around the country. The mainstream variety is actually called ‘Imperial’ or ‘New York’ and is quite bland compared to unique garden cultivars available in seed catalogues. Today, this veggie is found in grocery stores and restaurants everywhere. You could almost call it the “all-American head lettuce” because it is such a ubiquitous backdrop for the classic flavor of cheeseburgers and wedge salads with blue cheese dressing. Given its neutral and mild flavor, it is mostly cultivated for its juicy, crisp texture. It is one of the easiest lettuces to grow because it tolerates warmer conditions without bolting like other lettuces. It also packs a tender hydrating crunch for some of the best summer salads you’ve ever grown. Where Does Iceberg Lettuce Originate? Lettuce (Lactuca sativa) has been cultivated in gardens and on farms for millenia. It is undoubtedly the world’s most popular salad crop and can be found in just about every cuisine on the globe. While cultivated lettuce has its origins from wild lettuce (Lactuca scariola) in the Middle East and parts of central Asia, it has come a long way since its cultivation in ancient Egypt, Chinam, Greece, and Rome. The Latin genus name Lactuca comes from the root “milk” which refers to the milky latex-like sap found in lettuce stems and seeds. The word lettuce likely comes from the old French word “laitues” which means “milky”. But most of us never see the milky part of lettuce when it is cut from the base, instead we find the crisp green frilly leaves in our salads. Lettuce was especially popular amongst Egyptians, who associated that milky sap with lettuce’s alleged ability to improve sexual performance and stamina. The Romans also associated lettuce with sexual potency and consumed the less-bitter leaves in salads with vinegar and oil as a pre-digestive appetizer for meals. In China, lettuce was often consumed as “stem lettuce” stalks similar to celery, until later when looser leafed head lettuces were developed through natural breeding efforts. By the 16th century, Europeans had improved firm-heading types that grew more as compact rosettes with less bitterness. Colonists brought the lettuce to the New World via the Bahamas in the late 1400s and was one of the first seeds sown by early gardeners in America. Is There Any Nutritional Value? Contrary to popular belief, it does have nutritional benefits. Though it is about 95% water, it is a super low-calorie vegetable that can be a source of vitamins A and C, calcium, iron, and some trace minerals like magnesium, potassium and folate. While it isn’t as jam-packed with nutrients as famous greens like kale and spinach, iceberg lettuce is still extremely hydrating and improves gut health with fiber and prebiotics. It is an excellent aid for weight loss and also a crisp, refreshingly neutral flavor for any salad. Propagation Iceberg lettuce is grown very similarly to other lettuces and is easily propagated by seed. If you don’t have a seeding setup, you can also purchase lettuce starts from a local garden store or nursery to get a head start on your lettuce-growing season. It is particularly popular amongst beginner gardeners because it germinates easily in cool spring weather and matures in less than 2 months. Lettuce is remarkably hardy and the seeds can germinate in soils as cold as 40°F. However, it does not germinate in hot soils about 75°F. In fact, hot weather can cause lettuce seeds to go dormant, so avoid storing the seeds in a warm place. So store the seeds in a cool, dry place and prepare to sow them in trays indoors or directly in the garden in the early spring. I recommend sowing lettuce in successions every 2-3 weeks for a continuous supply of crisp salads throughout spring and early summer. How to Seed Iceberg Lettuce Prepare seed trays with a high quality, well-drained seed starting mix about 3-4 weeks before planting out. I prefer to use 6 packs or 72-cell trays. As you fill the cells, be sure not to tamp down or compress the mix too much, as lettuce seeds are very small and need plenty of aeration to germinate. Sow 2-3 seeds per cell very shallowly on the surface (about ⅛” deep), only lightly covering with a dusting of the mix on top. They can benefit from a little bit of light to germinate. Gently water and keep trays consistently moist for 7 to 10 days until germination. The ideal germination temperature for lettuce is 55° to 65°F. Once the lettuce seedlings have 1-2 true leaves, it is important to thin them to one seed per cell to ensure each plant has enough room to mature. How to Direct Seed You can also seed lettuce directly into your garden in the early spring. This is most commonly done for baby leaf lettuce, but you can also direct seed iceberg heads if you’d like. Sow seeds in cool soils about ⅛” deep and firm gently into the ground. For iceberg heads, sow 15-18” apart in rows 12-18” apart. For baby leaf lettuce, sprinkle 4-6 seeds per inch in bands about 2” apart. Keep consistently moist and use row cover to keep birds and rodents out of the seedlings. You need to pay extra attention to irrigating dry or hydrophobic soils to ensure plenty of coolness and moisture for uniform germination. Planting Lettuce is a hardy annual cool-weather crop that can be planted while night time temperatures are still frosty. This veggie often one of the very first crops in the spring garden as well as a perfect late fall salad ingredient. It’s also cold hardy and can be transplanted as early as 2-3 weeks before the last frost date, or as soon as the soil can be worked. Iceberg lettuce should be hardened off for 3 to 5 days before planting to allow them to acclimate to more extreme outdoor weather. If young plants are properly hardened, they can handle down to 20°F in the garden. Maintenance Lettuce requires little maintenance aside from regular weeding and irrigation. If a heat spell comes, sometimes I’ll toss some shade cloth over the lettuce patch to keep it from bolting.

Are you looking for a bell pepper that isn’t bland? Look no further than the pimiento types. These red peppers have sweet flesh, thick walls, and excellent flavor. Learn to grow and prepare these chiles alongside seasoned vegetable grower Jerad Bryant. Pimientos are not one variety; rather, they’re a collection of many red-colored types with similar flavors, shapes, and textures. These peppers resemble red bell peppers but are sweeter and more flavorful. One plant produces six to twelve peppers, meaning you’ll only need a few for a consistent harvest. I like growing this type instead of bell peppers, as they add a savory sweetness to pasta sauces, stuffed pepper recipes, and salads. Their savory flavor is why they stuff olives and cheese after the pickling process. Find these concoctions in your grocery store, or try growing your pimientos to make them yourself! Pimientos also go by pimentos, so look for either in your search for seeds, plants, or food products. A fun way to test their flavor is by growing a bell pepper plant alongside a pimiento one. Use types like ‘California Wonder,’ then harvest the ripe red peppers. Test each variety, seeing your favorite for flavor, texture, and juiciness. You might like the bell better, but I guarantee you’ll enjoy the pimiento peppers no matter which you prefer. Pimientos grow well during hot seasons worldwide. Give them full sun, regular water, and free-draining soil, and they’ll reward you with bushels of chiles. What Is It? Pimiento is a perennial variety that forms large, heart-shaped fruits. Their substantial size stands out in vegetable and ornamental gardens; you may use this species for decoration or its edible fruits. It goes by Capsicum anuum botanically, as it’s a close relative of bell peppers, jalapeños, and serranos. Many types of pimientos exist. ‘Sheepnose Pimento’ forms ruffled red peppers half the size of other kinds. Their succulent flesh has a similar texture to tomatoes. Some ‘Pimiento’ seeds sprout large, squat fruits, while others grow skinny, short, or round. Read the labels closely to determine their characteristics, and select the one you prefer to eat. Native Area Most pimientos originate from Europe. They’re descendants of South American chiles that traders brought across the ocean to European countries. Plant breeders received them and mixed varieties to form many peppers with new attributes. Nowadays, pimientos grow in the Americas, Eurasia, and Australia. As pickled olives with pimientos are immensely popular, there is a worldwide demand for farmers to select this variety. Grow it yourself to taste its fresh chiles—they’re hard to find in the produce section! Characteristics Annual plants reach two to three feet tall, although perennial ones reach four feet. They’re stocky plants with thick stems; you’ll easily tell them apart from thin-stem kinds like ‘Santaka’ or ‘Shishito.’ White flowers sprout off the thick stems in summer and grow delicious red pimientos after pollination. Some retailers confuse cherry peppers with pimientos. Pimientos are rarely spicy unless they ripen dark red on the vine. Mature fruits range between 0-500 Scoville units. Cherry peppers are often spicy, small, and juicy, with a much higher Scoville rating of 2,500-5,000. They taste good too but offer a much spicier flavoring when you use them in recipes. Planting Peppers appreciate fertile, free-draining soil. They need consistent moisture during the growing season to stay strong and perky. Although they technically are drought tolerant, infrequent watering reduces crop yields. Plan to grow them in full sun with good airflow. This type’s roots grow deeper and wider than most peppers, meaning you’ll want to give new plants an 18-24” distance from others. Give pimientos space, and they’ll fill it with strappy green foliage and bright red chiles. Grow these types from seeds or starts, although they’re difficult to find as potted plants in nurseries. Seeds are readily available online and at local retailers. How to Grow Pimientos love summers, as they bask under direct sunlight to thrive under the sun’s intense heat. They’re taller than most other varieties, so they appreciate some caging or staking for support. Give peppers proper nutrition, good soil, and ample water—they’ll produce fist-sized fruits all summer. Maintenance A little care goes a long way when growing pimientos. They like leaning on a stake or tomato cage because it supports the stems when they sprout large chiles. The fruits may weigh down your plant and break its tender, green stems. A simple bamboo stake does the trick—stick it in the ground and lean your peppers against it. Some garden twine will keep the plant upright. Frost and winter snow threaten ripening peppers. You may harvest them green or red and store them inside. Two other options exist to extend your season: hard pruning and using a row cover. Row covers are like mini-greenhouses; they provide warmth and shelter from extreme elements. Use metal U posts and UV-resistant greenhouse plastic to drape the posts. Situate the cover over your beds, and open the flaps during the daytime to let air pass through. Hard prune peppers at summer’s end, before fall frosts threaten to turn them mushy. Select branches without ripening peppers and prune them off. Remove any flowers and small fruit that may not have a chance to ripen. Leave green chiles on the stems, and they’ll ripen quickly during the last warm days of summer.