Basil is a beloved herb and an essential ingredient in every season. But is it possible to keep this plant as a perennial and enjoy its tasty leaves year after year? If you live in USDA hardiness zones 10 and 11, you could count on sweet basil as a perennial herb. For the rest of the country, it is considered an annual and will not come back the next year. However, with some planning, you can have fresh sweet basil at hand, whether you grow it indoors or ensure it reseeds in your garden. Ahead, learn more about growing basil year-round. Is Basil a Perennial? Sweet basil (Ocimum basiiicum L.), is not a perennial except in USDA hardiness zones 10 and 11. The same facts apply to other types of basil like Thai basil and spicy cinnamon basil. Fun Fact Wild basil, a distant relative of sweet basil, is a perennial in Zones 4-9. Although it has a milder flavor with hints of cilantro, it can be used like sweet basil in recipes. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How to Make the Most of Your Basil Harvest If you want to keep fresh basil on hand year-round, follow these tips to make the most of your basil harvest. Grow basil indoors. If you live in a cool climate, keep basil available by growing it indoors in pots year-round. Protect the basil plants. To extend an outdoor growing season, protect the plants from late or early frosts by using row covers or individual plant protectors. A glass jar or plastic milk container will protect the plants at night but should be removed the next morning. Stagger plantings. If growing basil from seed, stagger the sowing dates so the seeds germinate at least two weeks apart. If using nursery seedlings, purchase and plant about two weeks apart to extend the season. Remove basil flowers. If flowers form on the basil stems, pinch them off immediately. The energy of the plant should go into producing more and larger leaves, not flowers that become seeds. Harvest frequently.Regular removal of basil leaves will encourage the plant to branch out and sprout more leaves throughout the season. Freeze extra leaves. To freeze fresh basil leaves, blanch them in boiling water for 30 seconds, pat them dry, and freeze flat on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Store the frozen leaves in airtight containers in the freezer. Dry extra leaves. Use a dehydrator, oven, or microwave to dry basil leaves quickly. Once dry, crumble the leaves and store them in airtight containers. How to Grow Basil Year-Round Unless you live in USDA hardiness zones 10 or 11, you will need to either grow basil indoors or do a combination of outdoor gardening and indoor containers. For outdoor plants, plant seedlings in the ground or containers in the spring once the last chance of frost has passed. You can get a head start on harvesting by starting seeds or seedlings indoors while the weather is still cool. To grow indoors, you can start with seed, seedlings, or stem cuttings. Most indoor basil plants produce for about one year if maintained properly. Indoor basil containers need regular watering and plenty of bright light to thrive. A grow light is a great way to keep basil healthy if you don't have a sunny window. How to Grow Basil as a Perennial Annual basil plants in the garden will often self-sow if you don’t pinch back their flowers. You may be lucky enough to find some new seedlings in the garden in the spring if the weather cooperates. However, not all seeds germinate and the new seedlings will also be annuals. So, you can replant or move to a warmer climate if you'd like to be sure basil continues to come back every year. If you are living in a semi-tropical area, basil seeds can be planted in early spring or fall in moist but well-drained soil. The plants are sensitive to frost and the leaves of many varieties will turn black and drop off the plant when temperatures drop below 40°F. To save seeds from basil, leave the flowers on the plant until they die, allowing the seeds to turn brown and dry. Separate the seed from the seed capsules and store them in a cool place in a well-sealed container to replenish your crop.

If you're growing a healthy basil plant in your garden (or on your kitchen counter), getting even more basil is easy as can be and cost effective. Read on to learn how to properly propagate your basil plant for an endless supply of fresh herbs on demand. Meet the Expert Annette Hird is horticulturalist and gardening expert with decades of gardening experience. How to Propagate Basil in Water Choose a Healthy Basil Plant. Select a mature basil plant with no signs of disease or pests. Look for stems that are at least four inches long and have several sets of leaves. Cut the Stem. Using scissors or pruning shears, snip a 4- to 6-inch stem right below a leaf node, which is where leaves grow from the stem. Remove the leaves from the bottom two inches of the cutting. Place in Water. Fill a glass or jar with lukewarm water and place the cutting in it. Make sure the leaf nodes are submerged, but keep the leaves above the waterline to prevent rot. Add Light. Place the jar in a bright, indirect light location. A windowsill is a great option. Avoid direct sunlight, which can overheat the water and stress the cutting. Change the Water Regularly. Replace the water every two to three days to keep it fresh. This helps prevent bacterial growth and encourages healthy root development. Wait for Roots to Grow. Roots will start forming after about seven to 14 days. Wait until the roots are at least 2 inches long before transplanting. Transplant to Soil. Once the roots are well-developed, plant the cutting in a small pot with moist, well-draining soil. Water thoroughly and keep in indirect light for a few days to help it adjust. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How to Propagate Basil in Soil Prepare the Cutting. Just like with water propagation, cut a 4- to 6-inch stem below a leaf node and remove the lower leaves. Dip in Rooting Hormone Powder. For faster root development, dip the cut end of the stem in rooting hormone powder. This step is optional, but it helps with growth. Plant in Potting Mix. Fill a small pot with a light, well-draining potting mix. Make a hole in the soil and insert the cutting about two inches deep. Gently press the soil around the stem to make it firm. Water Lightly. Wet the soil, but don't soak it. Basil cuttings are prone to rot if overwatered, so ensure the pot has good drainage. Create a Humid Environment. Cover the pot with a plastic bag or a clear plastic dome to retain humidity. Make sure the cover doesn’t touch the leaves. Provide Indirect Light. Place the pot in a warm area with indirect light. Avoid direct sun until the plant is well-established. Check for Root Growth. After two to three weeks, gently tug on the cutting. Roots have formed if you feel any resistance when tugging. You can remove the plastic cover and care for it like a regular mature plant. Tip Use a spray bottle to mist the soil and leaves lightly for the first week to maintain humidity. Use a clear container to make it easier to monitor root growth and water quality. When to Propagate Basil The best time to propagate basil is during the warm growing season, typically between late spring through summer. Basil thrives in temperatures between 70°F to 85°F and cuttings root more quickly in warm, humid conditions. Avoid propagating in cold or dry weather, as the cuttings may struggle to root or become stressed. If you're growing basil indoors, you can propagate year-round as long as you provide enough warmth and light. "Basil is relatively easy to grow from seed, or you can use the traditional method of taking cuttings and putting them in a propagation mix," Annette Hird, horticulturalist and gardening expert, says. "My favorite mix that I make myself is relatively equal parts of coco coir and vermiculite." Basil Propagation Tips Proper Lighting Matters: Basil cuttings need bright, indirect light. Too much direct sun can scorch them, while too little light slows root growth. Avoid Overwatering: Whether in water or soil, too much moisture can lead to rot. Keep water fresh and soil damp but not too wet. Use Clean Gardening Tools: Always use sterilized scissors or shears to prevent introducing disease to cuttings. Use the Right Soil: A light, well-draining potting mix is ideal for transplanting rooted cuttings. Change Positions: If propagating multiple cuttings, rotate their position in the light to ensure even growth. Keep Things Warm: Basil loves warmth. Keep cuttings in a spot that stays above 70°F for best results. Experiment With Both Water and Soil: Try both water and soil propagation to see which works best for your environment and preferences.

Growing acorn squash is easier than you might think! These small squash are an excellent addition to the vegetable garden and handy in the kitchen for stuffing or roasting. Kelli Klein presents an in-depth growing guide that reveals all you need to grow this squash at home. Growing acorn squash is low maintenance and rewarding! Because of their large seed size, sowing acorn squash seeds is a great task for young children to get them involved in the garden. If you’d rather begin with pre-started seedlings, then fear not! Squash seedlings are likely available at your local garden center. The growing process is long, but you’ll enjoy watching the acorn squash grow throughout the summer and into the fall. This species originated in Central and North America and was introduced to early European settlers by Native Americans. It was a staple crop and often part of a three-sisters garden, which includes corn, pole beans, and squash, all of which are interplanted for their mutual benefits. Acorn squash is very easy to prepare and cook which makes it a great addition to every edible vegetable garden. The flavor has been described as mild and slightly nutty. It requires no peeling, just slice in half and roast cut side down in the oven until tender. Top it with some butter, and a sprinkle of salt, and eat the flesh right out of the rind. Acorn squash is also an excellent stuffable squash since they have a shape that is nearly perfect for stuffing. Half a squash makes for a perfect serving size. (Also, they taste incredible when stuffed with mushrooms and wild rice!) What is Acorn Squash? Cucurbita pepo var. turbinata is also known as Des Moines squash and pepper squash. They are a type of winter squash, but are more perishable and have a shorted shelf life than others of their kind. They can also be eaten somewhat immature, whereas other winter squash should fully mature before being harvested. C. pepo includes vegetables such as butternut, spaghetti squash, and pumpkins. Summer squash such as zucchini is a subspecies of Cucurbita pepo. It is said that the name Des Moines squash comes from a popular variety, ‘Table Queen’, that was first sold by an Iowa seed company and gained popularity in the 1800s. Native Area There is some mystery around the Des Moines cultivars and there are claims of it being cultivated in Denmark, however, these claims have been unsubstantiated and it’s more likely that it was cultivated alongside other squashes in North America. The original Cucurbita pepo is native to Mexico. Characteristics These vegetables have large fan-like leaves and thin stems that will either lead to a central growing point (for bush types) or to a vine (for vine types). The flowers are large and yellow and resemble zucchini blossoms. They are also edible and taste amazing when battered and deep-fried. The shape of the squash resembles an acorn with ribs and a dark green rind sometimes with a tinge of orange. People grow acorn squash because they’re high in Vitamin C. Planting The best time of year to sow acorn squash seeds is after all danger of frost for the season has passed. Pick a spot in your garden that gets plenty of sunlight and has plenty of space for the plants to bush out, sprawl, or grow up a raised bed trellis depending on the variety that you choose. Keep in mind that the decision to sow directly from seed or transplant out seedlings will depend on the length of your growing season. If sowing acorn squash seeds directly, start planting after the soil temperature is consistently at least 60°F. When transplanting seedlings, wait until one to two weeks after the average last frost date when nighttime temperatures are in the 50s. Make sure to space accordingly. Place one transplant per two square feet. Thin direct-sown squash in the seedling stage to this same spacing. How to Grow Now we’ll discuss the care of the beloved winter squash. Hopefully, this encourages you to add it to your vegetable garden as soon as possible! Following these gardening tips will ensure a bountiful harvest. Maintenance Pruning for acorn squash is unnecessary other than removing dead or yellowing leaves. Cut them back at the base of the stem. When pruning away damaged or diseased leaves, be mindful not to cut through the main stem. Otherwise, they can take pruning at many locations without inhibiting its growth. There are two main acorn squash varieties: bush and vining. The bush variety will remain stout and, well, bushy. The vining varieties resemble butternut and can be trained to climb a trellis. This may be useful if you’re limited on garden space. This will allow you to grow acorn squash vertically and make the most of all the square footage available in your vegetable garden. I’ve had the most success growing winter squash on a cattle panel trellis. Set your acorn squash seeds or starts at the base of the trellis and once it is tall enough to do so, weave it through the first few spaces on the cattle panel. Squash will take it from there. If you’re growing vertically, support the weight of the fruit once it begins to mature to prevent it from bringing down the entire vine. Create a cradle out of old pantyhose or an old t-shirt. Although they can generally withstand the weight of the fruit without much support, it is better to be safe. With the bush variety, you may consider adding a barrier between the squash and the soil as it matures. Without a barrier, like a piece of slate, the squash may rot on the side that rests on the ground. This is an issue in areas that are especially moist and wet while the fruit is maturing; otherwise, it shouldn’t be an issue. Follow these growing tips, and you’re sure to have a successful squash season.