Thyme is an easy-growing, evergreen Mediterranean shrub that is generally low maintenance, thriving in sun conditions. It's drought tolerant and comes back every year, but it does have one quirk—you have to harvest thyme correctly if you want it to thrive rather than die. Want to know how to get it exactly right? Here's how to harvest thyme, when to do it, and exactly how much to take. When to Harvest Thyme The best time to harvest thyme is during the growing season, which runs from spring through early summer. You can also harvest before winter’s cooler temperatures begin to set in. Try to harvest in the morning, which is when thyme's flavors are strongest. Thyme needs to be harvested regularly to keep its woody growth from taking over but, if you chop off too much, you risk damaging or killing the plant. If left to its own devices, thyme can become woody or flower, which negatively impacts the flavor of the herb. Harvesting thyme prevents woody growth, encourages more stems to fill in, and keeps the flavor of the thyme fresh and herbal. How to Harvest Thyme The first step in any harvest is to grab a sharp, clean pair of pruning shears or scissors and focus on the top of the plant. Carefully cut off a sprig either at the soil or above a leaf node. Avoid the woody stems, which don't have the same flavor as the younger leaves. How Much Thyme Should You Harvest? Harvesting thyme could mean a small cut or a big cut. You could trim off just a few stems, or you could cut off the entire top of the plant for a major harvest. For a significant harvest, you can trim up to half the plant, starting with the leaves on top, which should prevent the plant from blooming. Leave enough of the plant so that it is able to recover and grow back. Take too much and you could damage or even kill the plant; not enough, and you're not giving the plant an opportunity to fill out and grow to its full potential. Don't be shy in your cuts, but be sure to leave enough woody stems on the bottom for the plant to regrow. There should also be green leaves remaining after you've completed the harvest. How to Store Thyme If you're tempted to use up all of your fragrant thyme right away, go for it—thyme is most flavorful immediately after harvesting. As it sits for longer, its flavorful oils begin to fade away. Here are four ways to store thyme. Store Thyme in a Damp Paper Towel in the Fridge If you don't plan on using it in the first few days, resist the urge to take the leaves off the stem. Storing thyme all in one piece helps maintain the flavor, especially if you put them inside a plastic bag, wrapped in a damp paper towel. This should keep for up to two weeks. Dry Thyme Drying is the longest-lasting option. Hang bunches upside down in a dark area for two weeks. Once it's dried, store the full bunches in a resealable bag, and break the leaves off the stems when you're ready to use it. Bunch Up Drying thyme? Bundle the sprigs as you go, aiming for 40 sprigs in each bundle. Put Thyme in a Glass of Water You can also keep it in the fridge in small glass of water. While the thyme won't continue to grow, it will stay perky for up to a few months. Remember to change the water out at least once a week. Freeze Cubes of Thyme Thyme can also be kept in the freezer for use in a pinch in a soup or sauce. Chop it up finely, then put it in an ice cube tray with a thin layer of water on top. Wait until the cubes freeze, then pop them out to throw in your next chicken soup. Harvesting vs. Pruning Thyme: What's the Difference? While harvesting and pruning thyme both involve cutting back the plant, they are not the same; they have different goals and approaches, though both will prevent the plant from becoming too woody. With harvesting, you're cutting the plant at the ideal time in its growth to enhance the flavor of the stems you're gathering. This is typically done in the spring or summer, before the plant blooms. With pruning, you just want to trim the plant before winter to give it time to recover. You can prune thyme after it has bloomed—at this point, the flavor doesn't typically matter. This is being done for the health of the plant and making sure that it comes back next year, ready to produce a new crop.

Douglas asters erupt into bloom from late summer through autumn. Their purple petals and yellow centers decorate landscapes throughout western North America. Why not add them to your garden? Learn how to best care for these wildflowers alongside native plant gardener Jerad Bryant. Douglas asters pop up around the same time that goldenrods do. You’ll see purple-yellow aster-like blooms alongside large yellow flower spikes of goldenrods. Both of these native species attract pollinators like butterflies and bees, and they help local insect species that need resources. When you plant perennials like Douglas aster, you invite animals to return where they once were. Flowers lure bugs, bugs lure birds, and birds lure larger predatory animals. You feed the local food web by simply planting native flowers. This radical act will make your garden look gorgeous and boost your confidence as a naturalist. A naturalist is anyone who wants to learn about their local environment. All you have to do is put time and effort into studying it. You don’t need a fancy degree or accreditation! Simply plant native plants and create a wildlife oasis in your backyard. In the West, Douglas aster is one of the toughest, easiest to grow, and most beautiful species you can start with. Start with a few Douglas aster plants and watch as wildlife descends on them in droves. After seeing the benefits of one native species, you’ll want to plant dozens more! What Is It? Douglas asters are native wildflowers of western North America. Although aster is a part of their name, they are not true asters of the Aster genus. They’re a part of the Symphyotrichum genus, which includes other North American asters like Michaelmas daisy and leafy aster. These New World asters work better in our landscapes than non-native ones, as they appeal to the insects and animals that live on our continent. Consider subbing marginally hardy and non-native asters for gorgeous, frost-tolerant, and tough native species. Native Area Douglas asters are close relatives of New York asters and Michaelmas daisies. The western species grows from Alaska southward through California, and east to Montana and Idaho. It prefers sandy sites near bodies of water, forests, and open meadows. Find the plants growing where Canada goldenrods are, as the two prefer similar conditions. I often see this perennial poking out of the sand near the Willamette River by my home. It sprouts where the trees let sunlight poke through. The ample moisture near the riverside allows the roots to creep into new locations underground while the stems sow seeds aboveground, giving the plants two chances at spreading. Characteristics Douglas aster plants are leafy perennials with many qualities similar to European asters and daisies. They sprout hairy stems early with lance-shaped leaves. The leaves often have small teeth on the edges, and their tops and bottoms are hairless and green. This North American aster reaches between 8 and 48 inches tall, although it sometimes grows taller and leggy if it doesn’t receive enough sunlight. In late summer through late autumn you’ll see dozens of flowers open up on the stem tips. They have purple-blue petals and sunshine-yellow composite centers. Each composite center contains dozens of tiny flowers that form heads with multiple seeds after successful pollination. Leave the stems and seed heads and they’ll feed hungry birds throughout the winter. In cold zones with winter chill, this perennial dies back to the soil level. New sprouts emerge in spring as days lengthen and temperatures warm. Planting Because this is a tough perennial wildflower, getting it into the ground is simple. Your specimen will take off with new root growth shortly after planting and likely bloom this year. Seedlings may take longer to blossom and most likely will flower in their second year after growing successfully. Start seeds if potted plants are unavailable; otherwise, it’s easier to plant mature specimens from containers.

When the garden lacks greenery, mâche (pronounced “mosh”) is ready to shine! Former organic farmer Logan Hailey explains why this easygoing winter green is a delight in the garden and the kitchen! Contents Upgrade your winter salads with a mild, succulent, slightly nutty green that can withstand frigid temperatures after most greens die off. Mâche (pronounced “mosh”) is sometimes called lamb’s lettuce or corn salad because it was historically a weedy wild plant in winter corn fields of Europe. This versatile green’s uniquely tangy flavor has garnered gourmet status amongst chefs as its popularity has grown in the United States. True to its wild, weedy origins, mâche practically grows itself. If you want an easygoing green to enjoy in late fall or throughout the winter, mâche offers ample flavor and nutrient density with very little maintenance. The plant can withstand down to 5°F with proper mulching and modest protection. Let’s dig into everything you need to know about this delicious cold weather annual! History and Cultivation Scientifically known as Valerianella locusta, mâche is a salad green that grows wild in grain fields, roadsides, and open meadows. The plant is very cold-hardy and has been cultivated since around the 17th century, initially as a kitchen garden green and later for commercial sale and use by chefs. Today, this once-weedy green is a delicacy in the modern foodie world, with uses in gourmet salads to balance out spicier greens like arugula or intense winter roots like beets. What is Mâche? Mâche, or corn salad, is an annual winter leafy green that grows in attractive rosettes with a uniquely mild, refreshing tang and notes of earthy, nutty flavor. It is remarkably cold-hardy and survives long past arugula or spinach in frosty weather. It got its nickname “corn salad” from its appearance as a winter weed in European corn fields. It is also called lamb’s lettuce because it tends to emerge in pastures and fields. The foliage is equally enticing and nutritious for sheep and cattle as it is for humans. A Caprifoliaceae (honeysuckle) family member, mâche produces pretty white flowers in spring and remains harvestable even after bolting. The succulent, juicy leaves are a refreshing treat when little else green is still growing during winter. They hold for up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator and reliably re-sow themselves in the garden. Where Does Mâche Originate? Botanically known as Valerianella locusta, mâche is a tender leafy vegetable native to Europe, North Africa, and Western Asia. It is widely cultivated as a cold-weather green in areas with frigid winters. A staple in European kitchen gardens, mâche is popular in German, British, and French cuisine for its faintly nutty, tangy flavor and succulent, refreshing texture. Wild plants naturally grow in disturbed areas like dormant crop fields, pastures, roadside ditches, and meadows. A similar species, Valerianella umbilicata, is native to the midwestern United States. Cultivated varieties are not far removed from their wild ancestors and practically grow themselves. Propagation This unique old-time European green is easy to grow from seed. Although corn salad is an annual vegetable, it readily propagates if you leave the flower stalks in place. There are over 60 varieties of modern mâche greens, which are usually separated into two categories: small-seeded and large-seeded. Small-seeded varieties are more closely related to the wild types and only grow in cold weather. Large-seeded cultivars are more resistant to bolting in warm weather and better suited for southern climates. We’ll dig more into the best seeds in the “Varieties” section below. Whichever you choose, it’s best to prepare to seed this cold-hardy green in fall so it can grow during the coolest months of your growing zone. Seed Mâche is predominantly grown from direct seeding. Thanks to its weedy ancestry, the plant easily germinates outdoors in open garden beds with virtually any type of soil as long as it’s moist. Fall planting is the most common, but you can technically plant when the soil temperature is between 40 and 68°F. At soil temperatures greater than 70°F, mâche seeds will go dormant. If your weather has sufficiently cooled by Labor Day, this sowing is ideal for early fall harvests. In warmer climates, wait until the holidays to get mâche in the ground. The cool thing about this green is its willingness to spring to life while the rest of the garden is going to sleep. Sow the seeds about 1” apart in rows 4-18” apart. Plant seeds ¼” deep and avoid covering too densely with soil. You can also broadcast them for a dense patch of baby greens. Keeping seeds consistently moist is usually not a problem in areas with autumn rains. However, the seeds germinate slowly and require 10-14 days before they emerge. Thinning is optional for baby greens. For larger rosettes and “cut-and-come-again” harvests, thin plants to 3” apart once the cotyledons appear. Succession Planting If you want a continuous supply of winter and early spring greens, succession planting creates staggered plantings so different plants mature at different times. For example, you may want to sow a late summer succession for enjoyment around Halloween, an early fall mâche seeding in October for harvest in late November, and another round of greens in late winter for enjoyment in early spring. Generally, mâche lovers direct seed every 2-3 weeks throughout the coldest months. As long as the ground is workable, you can plant this veggie! It does very well in unheated greenhouses and low tunnels where little else can grow during the frigid months. Planting You are unlikely to find corn salad as a regular nursery transplant. However, you may wish to grow it in cell trays or pots to transplant it into the garden or gift it to your friends. How to Grow The cool thing about growing “weedy” plant species is that they don’t need much human help. Mâche has been doing its own thing for centuries and thrives without fertilizer or irrigation. The most important thing these unique greens ask for is consistent moisture, which is usually easy to achieve in northern winters.