Thinking of planting some jackfruit trees in your backyard, or somewhere in your home garden, but aren't sure where to start? Jackfruit can be a unique tree to grow, but they do best in certain hardiness zones, and perform well with certain soil types. Find out how to plant, grow, and care for Jackfruit in your backyard or home garden. Ever wonder what that giant melon-sized oblong fruit is when you pass by a local Asian produce section? That’s jackfruit. This spiny behemoth fruit is native to tropical parts of Southeast Asia. It’s susceptible to frost, can’t survive in drought, and only grows in humid tropical areas. Jackfruit is one of the most well-known fruit trees globally because it bears the most prominent and heaviest edible fruit that can weigh up to 50 kg. Aside from food, businesses can use the leaves, trunk, roots, and fruits commercially. Growing jackfruit is not tricky, but you need fresh seeds to get started. If you have ample space in your yard, you can grow this fruit crop quickly and reap its many benefits. Here’s everything you need to know about planting, growing, and caring for a jackfruit tree. Artocarpus Heterophyllus Basics Jackfruit also has outstanding nutritional value, and it doesn’t have any cholesterol or saturated fat. Jackfruit has more than enough fiber, potassium, and low calorie and sodium count for a healthy diet. Additionally, the fruit has vitamins and minerals, including vitamins A and C, copper, and magnesium. The fruit has been propagated traditionally from seeds. There are many variations in its shape, size, fruiting season, and quality. Types of Jackfruit Many cultivars and species of jackfruit are available across Asia, Africa, United States, and the Pacific. Since jackfruit is relatively new to the United States market, the optimal cultivars are still unknown for this region. In general, this fruit is available in two types: NangkaBelulang (firm) or NangkaBubur (soft), and it has several varieties, including: Black Gold – This cultivar is vigorous, having a dense canopy. It produces medium-sized fruits, weighing 6.7 kg on average. Golden Nugget – This variety is fast-growing, having unique dark green leaves and a dense canopy. It produces small-sized and rounded fruits that weigh around 3.2 kg on average. Golden Pillow – Its high quality and distinctive beauty characterize this variety. This small tree is highly manageable, and it produces small-sized fruits weighing 3.6-5.5 kg on average. Cochin – This variety is relatively tiny, forming an upright and sparse canopy. It produces small-sized fruits that are smoother than the other varieties. Dang Rasimi – This cultivar is open and fast-growing, and it needs annual pruning to maintain its height and spread. This tree is highly productive, bearing uniformly shaped fruits that come in varying colors from pale yellow to bright green. The Dang Rasimi needs more maintenance than other varieties of jackfruit. NS1 – This medium-sized tree has a dense and upright canopy. It produces dark green blocky fruits weighing around 4.2 kg. This cultivar also requires moderate yearly pruning. In the United States, the recommended varieties include the Golden Nugget, Black Gold, Dang Rasimi, and NS1. Developers came up with most of these cultivars in Malaysia or Australia. Generally, the outer skin of the jackfruit is composed of conical and hexagonal apices that turn from greenish to brownish-yellow when it matures. The pulp color also ranges from amber to orange to dark yellow. Each fruit contains 100 to 500 seeds with varying sizes from ¾ to 1.5 inches in diameter. You can cook and eat the seeds. Jackfruit seeds taste a little bit like chestnuts. When the tree or fruit is damaged, it produces a sticky, rubbery white latex, which you can use as paste or glue in various applications. Can I Grow Jackfruit From Seed? There are many reasons you should grow jackfruit. One of the most popular reasons is the delectable taste of its flesh. The fruit is enormous and can weigh up to 16 kg. When cooked, the meat has a similar texture to pork, making it an excellent alternative for vegetarians and vegans in just about any dish. The most common propagation method is growing from seeds. While growing from seeds is relatively easy, there are still several factors you must consider, such as their viability. Let’s take a look at some of the critical factors in successfully growing jackfruit. How to Grow Jackfruit Here are all the details you need to know about growing jackfruit. Growing Habit Even though jackfruit is a thorny tree, it can’t tolerate drought and frost. When it reaches maturity, it can withstand up to 118 degrees Fahrenheit heat and 32 degrees Fahrenheit cold, but only for a short time. Many varieties can grow up to 100 feet high. However, some types of jackfruit are known as dwarf varieties and only grow up to 20 feet tall. This tree has an average lifespan of more than 100 years, bearing fruit that weighs up to 50 kg. Propagating Jackfruit This tree is typically grown from seeds. When produced from seeds, you must pick the big, healthy seeds from the mother trees. Another method is asexual propagation. This method involves grafting and enriching the seeds. Cleft grafting is the most effective method because it can counter the adverse effects of a typhoon that can otherwise destroy giant trees. When you already found a place for planting jackfruit, clear the area first from old tree roots and stumps to prevent root disease and termites. Plough the soil first when necessary, then make rows to create planting intervals. On an acre of land, you can plant up to 48 jackfruit trees. If it’s a new area, you can reduce the interval to 25 feet x 25 feet so you can plant up to 69 trees. Usually, you can leave the planting holes open for two weeks before filling them up again. Only then must you plant the jackfruit. Remember that when propagating, you should not cover the bud patch with soil. Otherwise, it might cause the bud patch to die. You can also minimize the amount of sunlight by making a shade out of coconut fronds. After two weeks, if the weather is fine, you can remove the shading. If not, leave it as is and wait for another week before exposing your tree to the sun. Soil Requirements When propagating a jackfruit tree, the soil must be loam, fertile, well-drained, and contain a pH value of 6.0- 7.5. The tree can’t tolerate waterlogging, so there must be good drainage. Giving the soil extra nutrition through organic fertilizers can help in growing the tree. Lands near river beds are perfect for cultivating jackfruit. Fertilization and Irrigation Propagating seeds requires plenty of nitrogen fertilizer while bearing jackfruit trees need the application of potash and phosphorous. If there is no soil analysis available for your land, apply compost or manure at the rate of 3 kgs per plant. After a month of planting the seeds, use 150 g of ammonium sulfate per plant. After six months, use the same amount of ammonium sulfate until the rainy season ends. Experts recommend using organic fertilizer around the plants. When the tree starts to bear fruits during the rainy season, apply 0.5 to 2 kg complete fertilizer and 300 g of potash per plant. Repeat after six months at the rate of 1.5 kg to 3 kg per plant. You don’t have to worry so much about the water requirement during jackfruit propagation. Only irrigate your farm if extreme drought occurs. Pruning Start pruning the tree when it reaches two years old. Cut the topmost part of the main trunk to regulate the height, leaving three meters from the ground. Then, apply some fungicide to the cut area. When you prune trees, you need to remove the unproductive, diseased, and insect-damaged branches. The removal of these branches results in healthier fruits. Thai people follow a uniform pruning system – pruning the main stem above the bud union to induce branches close to the ground. They allow the main trunk to carry the fruits rather than distributing them on all the branches. This system allows the tree center to penetrate more light, and it promotes better air movement. It also encourages a more lateral growth instead of vertical growth. However, never remove a third of all the branches. Prune only the tree after harvesting the fruit. Training in Jackfruit Farming You must keep the tree to a single trunk and remove the early side branches to allow a uniform and smooth trunk to develop up to a height of two meters. Then, when it reaches this height requirement, the side branches are now allowed to grow. It is also essential to keep the flower buds appearing on the main trunk free from vegetative growth. Jackfruit Care Caring for jackfruit trees is relatively easy as long as the climate is suitable. These trees need ample warmth and sunlight. When you plant a tree initially, pick a young one without any sign of disease. Look for a nursery tree wherein the roots have not yet outgrown its container. Otherwise, the tree won’t grow normally, even if you transfer it to the ground. As a result, it impedes the growth of the tree throughout its lifespan. Make sure that the planting site has enough space. Don’t plant near the other trees or structures because the jackfruit tree can grow quite huge. And moving your jackfruit tree poses many problems for both you and the health of the tree. The key is to keep the ground moist, especially for younger jackfruit trees because they are still growing. Additionally, weeding around the tree to avoid competition with other plants for moisture and nutrients in the soil is a good idea. It also helps to mulch around the tree to retain soil moisture and suppress the weeds. Weeding and mulching help keep the roots warm, especially during colder temperatures. There is good news associated with growing jackfruit trees. Jackfruit doesn’t have many serious issues with pests and diseases, even though many types of wildlife are attracted to this fruit. So it is a relatively low-maintenance tree to have on your property. Light As mentioned, the jackfruit tree needs ample sunlight to grow well and bear fruits. On most days, the tree must be exposed directly to full sunlight for at least six hours. If it’s grown in a shady area, it might not bear much fruit or maybe none at all. Soil The soil must be rich in nutrients, and excellent drainage is also a must-have. While the tree isn’t overly picky about the soil pH, it grows best if the soil is slightly acidic. Water Jackfruit, as a tropical plant, likes consistently moist soil all year round. So, when the ground starts to dry out because of extreme heat or lack of rainfall, you must water it frequently. Ensure that the roots are not sitting in a water pool because it inhibits fruit production and eventually kills the tree. Temperature and Humidity The jackfruit tree loves a warm climate and is very tolerant of heat. However, it’s susceptible to frost and temperatures below 35 degrees F, especially younger trees. Low temperatures can weaken or kill the tree quickly. Additionally, jackfruit prefers humid conditions and doesn’t grow in dry climates unless the soil is well-watered. This means you’ll likely be in USDA Hardiness Zone 10-12 if you plan to successfully grow these trees. Jackfruit is a popular tree in Florida, and other states with a wet climate. Fertilizer It’s best to apply fertilizers during the rainy season. In the case of irrigated farming, apply fertilizers twice a year. It’s also beneficial to use mixed compost, manure, or fertilizers in a circular trench 50 cm away from the main trunk annually. Pest and Diseases Since the commercial production of jackfruit in the United States is limited, there is still ongoing research on jackfruit pests and diseases. Some of the pests and conditions to look out for include the following: Soft Rot or Fruit Rot This disease happens when fungi attack the male inflorescences and young fruits of the jackfruit tree. As a result, only a tiny percentage of the fruits reach full maturity. Thankfully, the matured fruits and inflorescences are generally not attacked. The soft rot disease causes a large number of fruits to fall off early. During the early stage, the fungus may appear as greyish growth. Then, it becomes denser and turns into a black growth. The fungus continues to spread until the entire fruit or inflorescence falls off. This disease is usually common in humid, warm, and rainy conditions. Dieback You know a jackfruit tree has a dieback disease when you see a few discolorations or darkening of the tree bark. When the disease advances, the green twigs start to wither at the base and extend outwards along the leaf edges. The leaves then turn brown, and the margins start to roll upwards. During this stage, the twigs die, wither and fall. There might also be gum exudation from the affected branches primarily caused by shoot borers. These infected twigs can cause the spread of dieback disease. It is common in rainy areas where the relative humidity is above 80%, and the temperature ranges between 77 degrees Fahrenheit and 88 degrees Fahrenheit. Leaf Spot Another disease affecting the jackfruit tree is the leaf spot which produces dark red spots on the surface of the leaves. It turns into dark greyish color upon maturity and infecting young expanding leaves. This disease is common in areas with a relative humidity of 95% and temperatures of around 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Rust Rust usually develops during late summer, and when it affects the tree, it causes defoliation in just a few weeks. If not treated and continues to occur regularly, the tree’s growth reduces, affecting its yield. Initial symptoms of fig rust include small and yellowish spots on the top surface of the leaves. When these lesions grow more prominent, the color turns reddish-brown, but the leaves remain smooth. Heavily infected leaves mostly turn brown or yellow, especially along the edges, and they prematurely drop. Rust primarily survives through thick-walled and resting spores called teliospores on the leaves, and it spreads through wind-born uredospores coming from an infected tree. Pink Disease Another widespread disease attacking the jackfruit tree is Pink Disease. This condition is prevalent in tropical and subtropical areas. It shows as a pink powdery coating on the parts of the stem. This pink-colored coating is the profuse conidial fungus production. Typically, it attacks the young woody branches, and the tree eventually loses its leaves, showing dieback symptoms. You can generally find the encrustation on the lower shaded part. Jackfruit Insect Pests The jackfruit tree is not only attacked by certain diseases but also by insect pests. Below are some of the insect pests commonly found in jackfruit trees. Shoot and fruit borer – The shoot and fruit borer is one of the most common insect pests attacking jackfruit trees. The female borers lay eggs, and they develop very quickly, especially during the fruiting and flowering period of the tree. Spittlebugs – Pine spittlebugs lie dormant as eggs insert into dead branches. These eggs hatch, and the young nymphs slowly migrate to the other parts of the tree. The larvae feed on the branches of the tree. Mealybug – The female mealybugs lay their eggs in a fluted ovisac attached directly to their body on the host tree. These bugs have white-colored powder coating their body, and they colonize on barks of the main trunk, panicles, and young shoots. They produce a sticky substance, honeydew, which is responsible for sooty mold development. Bud weevil – The smooth, pearly white, oval eggs of a bud weevil measure 0.42 mm in length and 0.28 mm in width. This small whitish insect pest bore into fruits and tender flower buds, causing them to drop prematurely. The brownish-grey adult bud weevil can be customarily found nibbling the leaves of the jackfruit tree. Bark-eating caterpillars – These bark-eating caterpillars have dirty dark-browned heads and bodies and grow up to 60 mm long. When the eggs hatch, the larvae nibble the tree’s bark, disturbing the continuous flow of sap. As a result, the tree has less fruiting and poor overall growth. Aphid – Another common pest attacking the jackfruit trees is the aphid. Adult aphids lay their white eggs along the veins of the leaves. The nymphs and adult aphids both suck the sap coming from the leaves, pods, and buds. Infected leaves curl up, and at the advanced stage, the tree can start to wither and eventually die. The plant remains stunted, and the insects continue to excrete honey due to where sooty molds grow. Leaf Webber – The minute eggs of a leaf Webber only measure about 0.8 mm in length and 0.6 mm in width. They have varying shapes from sphere to flat, and color from white to yellow, which only changes after one day. The adult webbers lay their eggs on the flower, buds, and other parts of the plant that are actively growing. You can usually find the eggs in small clusters, with two to seven eggs per cluster. The Webbers grow very quickly – they hatch eggs in about four days, and each production has around four hundred eggs per female Webber. They cause interruption of the transport of water and nutrients on the plants, which causes drying of the terminal shoot during the early stage of development. Stem borer – The female stem borers slit the tree’s bark, and they lay up to two hundred eggs directly into these cuts. The brownish white cylindrical eggs have narrow and rounded ends. When these eggs hatch, the larvae tunnel into the branches and sapwood of the trunk. Sap oozes out from several points, causing the wilting of the stems and, eventually, the death of the tree. Castor capsule borer – The female capsule borer lays eggs on the tender portions of the tree. The caterpillars bore into planting material capsules, causing severe damage to the tree. Now that you know of the most common Jackfruit pests, you can be on the lookout and prevent these common problems. Integrated Pest Management for Jackfruit To properly care for the jackfruit, integrated pest management must cover all of the tree development stages. Here are some of the best practices of pest management for the jackfruit tree: Pre-Planting Here are the best practices for the pre-planting stage: Conduct deep orchard plowing right after harvesting to expose the pupae and eggs of the mealy bugs. There is a need for heavy irrigation to help destroy the eggs of the mealy bugs. Once the webs of bark-eating caterpillars no longer exist, adopt the following measures: Plug all the borer holes, except for the fresh ones, with mud plastering. Next, dig pits with the dimensions of 1 x 1 x 1 m3 and fill up these pits with a mixture of topsoil, neem cake, and farmyard manure per pit. You may feel like skipping these steps, but remember, pre-planting care is vital for the survival of your Jackfruit. Planting Here are the best practices for the planting stage: Check frequently to see if there are new emerging sprouts from the rootstock and remove them. Constantly shift the grafts from one point to another to avoid the striking of roots into the ground. Do the transplanting of the saplings into pits that are already full of farmyard manure. Additionally, make sure to remove weeds from the area before transplanting.

Wondering what all the fuss is about heirloom tomatoes? There’s something special about their flavor, distinct shapes, and colors, but there’s also a history that doesn’t compare to hybrids on the market. In this article, organic farmer Jenna Rich shares why heirloom tomatoes have sentimental value to families across the globe and how best to plant, grow, and care for them. I’ll be the first to tell you how much I love hybrid tomatoes, created in labs to help growers produce these delicious fruits in an ever-changing climate, fight disease, and ward off pests. However, I’m also a sucker for the old-timey look and flavor of heirloom tomatoes. Nothing compares to these beauties on a Caprese salad with basil fresh from the garden and local mozzarella cheese. But what makes them so different, and why do some growers consider them special and valuable? This article will explore all of that. Let’s discuss how to plant, grow, and care for heirloom tomatoes. What is a Heirloom Tomato? Experts have defined heirloom tomato varieties by production, age, and tradition. They are not hybrids and are open-pollinated, meaning you can plant a seed from the mother plant, resulting in a clone. Experts have differing opinions on how old a seed must be before receiving heirloom classification, ranging from 25 years to pre-WWII. Heirloom seeds were passed down family lines for over a hundred years. Individuals have reported family members taking heirloom tomato seeds with them as they fled their countries years ago, passing down seeds each generation. Heirloom tomatoes offer unique marbling, both externally and internally. Shapes, colors, and sizes differ across varieties and are typically inconsistent throughout the growing season or year to year. They may look a little different each time they’re grown and have a shorter shelf-life, which is why they’re not usually found in grocery stores. They are typically sweeter and contain fewer seeds than hybrids. What’s So Special About Heirloom Tomatoes? While some of us have only ever experienced classic, red, round tomatoes from the grocery store, past generations experienced bold flavors, exciting colors and textures, and unique family stories from their garden crops. We adore heirloom tomatoes for their unique flavors, funky shapes, and, most importantly, the extraordinary familial stories you can’t find at the grocery store—the ‘Amish Paste’ plum tomato dates back to the 1870s, originating from Wisconsinite Amish farmers. And ‘Mexico Midget,’ whose seeds we believe to be collected from wild tomato plants in Mexico by a truck driver headed to California. Each heirloom tomato seed has an equally fun and exciting story attached to it. How to Grow Let’s discuss the basics and a few differences to help you produce the best heirlooms this season. Planting Plant your tomatoes out after the risk of frost has passed or into a protected space with optional covering if needed. Spacing will depend on the variety, growing zone, and setup.

Dill is a popular herb to toss in various dishes, but dill plants can also do well in the garden. Dill is an excellent companion plant for certain herbs and vegetables, such as basil and broccoli, as well as flowers like marigolds. This guide will help you use this versatile herb to benefit plants in your garden. Here are 12 dill companion plants to help cultivate a healthy and productive garden. Benefits of Companion Planting Companion planting is a tried-and-true gardening technique that can boost the health of certain crops when planted together. Some plants can attract pollinators like wasps and repel pests like cabbage worms and moths. Additionally, while most plants absorb nutrients from the soil, some do the opposite. Bush beans, for instance, send nitrogen back into the earth to benefit neighboring plants, and chamomile can release chemicals that boost growth and even flavor in nearby plants. Dill is a great companion plant for numerous herbs and vegetables primarily for its relationship with good and bad insects. Dill plants can attract pollinators like honeybees and ladybugs to your garden, as well as deter harmful insects like aphids and spider mites. Additionally, dill has shallow roots and narrow stems that can easily fit between larger plants like Brussels sprouts to help you save space in your garden. Corn Insects like cutworms and earworms can threaten mature corn. Dill has an intense fragrance that attracts various insects like ladybugs and hoverflies. These beneficial bugs happen to prey on corn's harmful pests, making flowering dill plants an excellent companion for established corn.1 Experts recommend growing dill on the ends of corn rows, roughly one foot away from the nearest corn stalk. Name: Corn (Zea mays) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Loamy, well-drained, acidic, neutral Asparagus For many crops, aphids are always on the prowl, looking to gobble up your plants before you have the chance. Asparagus is among these vulnerable veggies. Fortunately, dill seeds attract both lacewings and ladybugs, which enjoy snacking on aphids.1 Additionally, companion planting with asparagus and dill is a great way to maximize growing space and ensure an even distribution of nutrients. Name: Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-9 Light: Full sun Soil: Sandy, loamy, neutral acidic Basil Dill and basil are great companion plants, because of their many similarities. Not only do they benefit from similar soil components, but they also attract many of the same beneficial insects and deter destructive pests.1 If you're building an herb garden, be sure to plant basil nearby. Name: Basil (Ocimum basilicum) USDA Hardiness Zones: 10-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Moist, rich, well-draining, acidic to alkaline Deer Resistant: Yes Tip Other herbs like coriander, parsley, and chervil also make great dill companion plants. Broccoli Brassica vegetables include broccoli, cauliflower, kale, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, turnips, and more, many of which make great dill companion plants. Dill can help deter destructive insects like cabbage moths, cabbage loopers, and cabbage worms, all of which enjoy munching on brassica vegetables like broccoli.2 Name: Broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Moist, loamy, well-drained, acidic, neutral Marigold Dill can help repel a variety of pesky insects, but it is not immune to damage from certain bugs like caterpillars and slugs. Fortunately, there are certain plants that can ward off these critters, including marigolds.2 Companion Planting. Cornell University Cooperative Extension. Marigolds are considered one of the best companion plants, pairing perfectly with onions, squash, cucumber, and more. Name: Marigold (Tagetes spp.) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Evenly moist, well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral Lettuce Some sources argue that leafy vegetables like lettuce are the best dill companion plant of all.1 Not only is lettuce a primary target of many garden pests, but it has a short growing cycle, so you can harvest and replant your lettuce, spinach, and Swiss chard as the dill grows. Name: Lettuce (Lactuca sativa) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun to partial sun Soil: Loamy, rich, well-drained, acidic, neutral Onion Aphids tend to avoid the intense fragrance that accompanies dill, but that doesn't mean dill is protected from the threat of this common garden pest. Many avid gardeners recommend planting onions and dill together because the combination of these strong aromas offers an even better barrier against bugs like aphids.21 Name:Onion (Allim cepa) USDA Hardiness Zones: 4-9 Light: Full sun Soil: Loamy, well-drained, neutral Beans Like dill, beans are a great companion plant, because of the benefits they offer neighboring plants. Specifically, the roots of bean plants attract nitrogen, which benefits the surrounding plants. In exchange, dill keeps away common garden pests that threaten to destroy growing bean plants.2 Name: Common bean, green bean, etc. (Phaseolus vulgaris) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Loamy, moist, well-drained, acidic Nasturtium Like marigolds, nasturtiums can be an excellent dill companion plant and benefit a number of other popular garden herbs and veggies. Just as onions and dill work together to repel aphids, nasturtium can protect garden crops by doubling dill's efforts. This popular companion plant attracts pollinators as well as predatory insects, making it a great addition to most garden beds.1 Name: Nasturtium (Tropaeolum spp.) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Moist but well-drained, acidic, neutral, alkaline Chives Like onions, chives have an intense fragrance that can deter aphids, making dill and chives a great pest-fighting team. Chives will not only help dill deter this destructive garden critter, but it also repels other garden pests like spider mites. Together, chives and dill attract pollinators to foster health for neighboring plants.2 Name: Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) USDA Hardiness Zones: 4-8 Light: Full sun to light shade Soil: Loamy, sandy, slightly acidic to neutral Tip Some sources say planting dill near alliums like garlic, chives, onions, and leeks can help enhance their flavor.2 Zucchini Zucchini and other squash plants tend to grow big and bushy, so not every popular companion plant pairs well with these leafy giants. Fortunately, dill is thin and frond-like, so it won't clash with the squash plant's leaves or block sunshine. Additionally, zucchini and squash are particularly susceptible to pests like squash beetles and flea beetles, but dill plants offer an effective line of defense by attracting predatory insects.2 Name: Zucchini (Cucurbita pepo) USDA Hardiness Zones: 3-11 Light: Full sun Soil: Rich, loamy, moist Cucumber Dill and cucumber are another great pair in both the kitchen as well as the garden. Cucumber beetles are a major threat to cucumbers, but fortunately, dill can help. Dill plants attract ladybugs, parasitic wasps, and green lacewings, all of which love to feast on cucumber beetles.3 Name: Cucumber (Cucumis sativus) USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Light: Full sun to partial shade Soil: Rich, well-draining, acidic to neutral Plants You Shouldn't Grow With Dill Although dill can be a beneficial companion plant for a wide variety of vegetables, herbs, and even flowers, not every plant will interact well with dill plants. Here are a few plants you should avoid growing near dill: Carrots: Avoid planting dill and carrots together, as the pair are members of the same plant family and can cross-pollinate. This is also true of celery, cilantro, caraway, and more.2 Peppers: Peppers, and other nightshades like eggplant and even tomatoes, are not the best companion plant for dill, because they consume the same type of nutrients, which may stunt your plants' growth.2 Lavender: Lavender and dill are not great companion plants, since both have different soil requirements. Dill prefers moist soil, while lavender likes its soil to dry between watering.45 Potatoes: Dill grows quickly and sometimes blocks light from reaching other growing plants like potatoes, which can stunt their growth.