Are you looking for a citrus plant that beautifies the landscape and produces delectable sweet-tart fruit? Then check out the calamondin orange tree! Plant expert Briana Yablonski shares how to grow and care for this unique citrus. In the bright and vibrant citrus world, few plants have as many favorable characteristics as the calamondin orange. Its lush green leaves pop out of porch planters and create lush hedges that produce fruit. And oh, the sweet and tangy fruits—they’re not just a tasty treat but also appropriate for everything from cakes to salad dressings. And did we mention the plants can tolerate cold temperatures that zap many other citrus species? If you’re still unsure about adding a calamondin orange to your garden, I get it. Experimenting with something new can be a bit scary! Yet diving into the unknown is one of the fun parts of gardening. Here is all the information and care tips you need to successfully cultivate these unique citrus fruits. What Is a Calamondin Orange? The calamondin orange, also known as calamansi or Philippine lime, is a hybrid citrus plant that’s a cross between a kumquat and a Mandarin orange. Plant scientists once thought the calamondin orange was a unique species (Citrus mitis), but they later determined it was a hybrid. Its scientific name changed over the years, but it’s mostly referred to as Citrus x microcarpa. Native Range Scientists think the plant emerged in the Philippines and parts of Indonesia, Malaysia, and Brunei. You can now find it growing throughout Southeast Asia and a few other portions of the world. The Philippines is the major producer of calamansi fruit. Characteristics No matter what you call it, the calamondin orange is versatile in the garden and kitchen. Like many fruit trees, the plant’s mature height depends on the rootstock. Wild plants can grow up to twenty feet tall, but dwarf varieties remain under five feet. All plant sizes have a woody stem that gives way to pliable branches. These branches are covered with shiny, dark green, evergreen leaves. The leaves have an ovular shape with rounded tips, making them stand out from the more pointed leaves of lemons and limes. Calamondin orange plants produce flowers throughout the year, but spring is the main flowering season. The small white flowers have five petals and emit an attractive fragrance. Upon successful pollination, these flowers turn into fruits that eventually grow one to three inches wide. All fruits start out green, and the mature color ranges from orange to yellow to green. Some varieties also sport variegated fruits. When you cut into calamondin oranges, you’ll see juicy flesh that resembles other citrus fruits. The flavor is more tart than sweet, with hints of lemon, lime, orange, grapefruit, and passion fruit. Each plant produces unique-tasting fruits, so you won’t know what a calamondin orange tastes like until you try it. Planting Growing calamondin oranges from seed isn’t the most reliable planting method, so purchasing a potted plant is the best way to add one of these trees to your home. Although it’s often difficult to find the plants in local nurseries, you can purchase them online. I recommend ordering your plants in the spring through fall since cold winter temperatures can damage the plants during shipping. Before you choose a plant, be sure you research the cultivar. As I mentioned above, some calamondin oranges remain small enough for planters, but others grow into small trees. Pay attention to the rootstock and choose one that matches your needs.

Would you like to grow your own delicious, healthy bananas at home? ‘Dwarf Cavendish’ banana trees are fairly easy to grow, especially if you live in a warm climate, and they can produce harvestable bananas each year. If you’re not sure how to care for a tropical banana species, no worries. Plant biologist Emily Estep will walk you through everything you need to know. The ‘Dwarf Cavendish’ banana tree has been prized for its fruit since the 19th century, and there’s no reason why you can’t carry on the tradition at home. You can grow these tropical plants outdoors in warmer regions or indoors as houseplants. With a pseudostem that starts with a rhizome, these plants get taller and taller as each new leaf grows. The leaves initially have eye-catching red and purple splotches that fade as the leaves age. The central stalks can get up to 10 feet tall before they fruit. These plants are excellent beginner tropicals, as they’re fun and easy to grow. The fact that you can harvest grocery-store-tier bananas from them is a huge bonus. What Is It? M. acuminata ‘Dwarf Cavendish’ is a banana tree cultivar with quite a history. Bananas are one of the world’s oldest cultivated fruits, with cultivation dating back to 8000 B.C. Originally native to Asia, the 6th Duke of Devonshire — William Cavendish — received a gift of bananas in the early 1800s. Though the exact timeline is murky, Cavendish then cultivated and sent the bananas around the Pacific, and the spread of bananas continued. Over time, bananas have become one of the world’s most important staple crops, and if you live in the right climate, you can grow bananas in your yard. These self-pollinating banana trees produce bunches of edible bananas. They’re perennial to USDA zones 8-11, but in cooler regions, grow them in pots and bring them indoors during winter. Characteristics Dwarf Cavendish is an attractive banana tree with new leaves that emerge with purple or red mottling that fades to green as they mature. This perennial plant will come back year after year when in good health, whether you keep it outdoors all year long or maintain it as a houseplant. Relatively easygoing, self-pollinating banana trees should produce fruit each year, and it’s possible for them to fruit in their first year of planting, even when started from a rhizome, in model surroundings. These trees are normally grown for their prized bananas, but they make a lovely landscape plant or houseplant, even without the fruit. Native Area M. acuminata is most likely native to Southeast Asia and India, though its original range may have extended all the way to northern Australia. Its true native range is somewhat difficult to narrow down because bananas have been cultivated for thousands of years. The ‘Dwarf Cavendish’ cultivar was first grown in the greenhouses of Chatsworth House in 19th century England. Planting In zones 8-11, plant Dwarf Cavendish in a sunny area with loamy, fertile, well-draining soil. You can either purchase a young Dwarf Cavendish tree or start from a rhizome. A pseudostem will emerge from the rhizome, followed by big, tropical leaves. Consider that these trees can grow up to 10 feet tall, potentially shading out nearby plants when choosing a location. In cooler zones, Plant these banana trees in large containers and move them indoors when it gets cold. Though it may take a part-time houseplant banana tree longer to grow, don’t forget how tall it may eventually become. If planting in a pot or container, consider placing it on wheels to move it around easily, as moving the plant can be cumbersome.

Thinking of planting some jackfruit trees in your backyard, or somewhere in your home garden, but aren't sure where to start? Jackfruit can be a unique tree to grow, but they do best in certain hardiness zones, and perform well with certain soil types. Find out how to plant, grow, and care for Jackfruit in your backyard or home garden. Ever wonder what that giant melon-sized oblong fruit is when you pass by a local Asian produce section? That’s jackfruit. This spiny behemoth fruit is native to tropical parts of Southeast Asia. It’s susceptible to frost, can’t survive in drought, and only grows in humid tropical areas. Jackfruit is one of the most well-known fruit trees globally because it bears the most prominent and heaviest edible fruit that can weigh up to 50 kg. Aside from food, businesses can use the leaves, trunk, roots, and fruits commercially. Growing jackfruit is not tricky, but you need fresh seeds to get started. If you have ample space in your yard, you can grow this fruit crop quickly and reap its many benefits. Here’s everything you need to know about planting, growing, and caring for a jackfruit tree. Artocarpus Heterophyllus Basics Jackfruit also has outstanding nutritional value, and it doesn’t have any cholesterol or saturated fat. Jackfruit has more than enough fiber, potassium, and low calorie and sodium count for a healthy diet. Additionally, the fruit has vitamins and minerals, including vitamins A and C, copper, and magnesium. The fruit has been propagated traditionally from seeds. There are many variations in its shape, size, fruiting season, and quality. Types of Jackfruit Many cultivars and species of jackfruit are available across Asia, Africa, United States, and the Pacific. Since jackfruit is relatively new to the United States market, the optimal cultivars are still unknown for this region. In general, this fruit is available in two types: NangkaBelulang (firm) or NangkaBubur (soft), and it has several varieties, including: Black Gold – This cultivar is vigorous, having a dense canopy. It produces medium-sized fruits, weighing 6.7 kg on average. Golden Nugget – This variety is fast-growing, having unique dark green leaves and a dense canopy. It produces small-sized and rounded fruits that weigh around 3.2 kg on average. Golden Pillow – Its high quality and distinctive beauty characterize this variety. This small tree is highly manageable, and it produces small-sized fruits weighing 3.6-5.5 kg on average. Cochin – This variety is relatively tiny, forming an upright and sparse canopy. It produces small-sized fruits that are smoother than the other varieties. Dang Rasimi – This cultivar is open and fast-growing, and it needs annual pruning to maintain its height and spread. This tree is highly productive, bearing uniformly shaped fruits that come in varying colors from pale yellow to bright green. The Dang Rasimi needs more maintenance than other varieties of jackfruit. NS1 – This medium-sized tree has a dense and upright canopy. It produces dark green blocky fruits weighing around 4.2 kg. This cultivar also requires moderate yearly pruning. In the United States, the recommended varieties include the Golden Nugget, Black Gold, Dang Rasimi, and NS1. Developers came up with most of these cultivars in Malaysia or Australia. Generally, the outer skin of the jackfruit is composed of conical and hexagonal apices that turn from greenish to brownish-yellow when it matures. The pulp color also ranges from amber to orange to dark yellow. Each fruit contains 100 to 500 seeds with varying sizes from ¾ to 1.5 inches in diameter. You can cook and eat the seeds. Jackfruit seeds taste a little bit like chestnuts. When the tree or fruit is damaged, it produces a sticky, rubbery white latex, which you can use as paste or glue in various applications. Can I Grow Jackfruit From Seed? There are many reasons you should grow jackfruit. One of the most popular reasons is the delectable taste of its flesh. The fruit is enormous and can weigh up to 16 kg. When cooked, the meat has a similar texture to pork, making it an excellent alternative for vegetarians and vegans in just about any dish. The most common propagation method is growing from seeds. While growing from seeds is relatively easy, there are still several factors you must consider, such as their viability. Let’s take a look at some of the critical factors in successfully growing jackfruit. How to Grow Jackfruit Here are all the details you need to know about growing jackfruit. Growing Habit Even though jackfruit is a thorny tree, it can’t tolerate drought and frost. When it reaches maturity, it can withstand up to 118 degrees Fahrenheit heat and 32 degrees Fahrenheit cold, but only for a short time. Many varieties can grow up to 100 feet high. However, some types of jackfruit are known as dwarf varieties and only grow up to 20 feet tall. This tree has an average lifespan of more than 100 years, bearing fruit that weighs up to 50 kg. Propagating Jackfruit This tree is typically grown from seeds. When produced from seeds, you must pick the big, healthy seeds from the mother trees. Another method is asexual propagation. This method involves grafting and enriching the seeds. Cleft grafting is the most effective method because it can counter the adverse effects of a typhoon that can otherwise destroy giant trees. When you already found a place for planting jackfruit, clear the area first from old tree roots and stumps to prevent root disease and termites. Plough the soil first when necessary, then make rows to create planting intervals. On an acre of land, you can plant up to 48 jackfruit trees. If it’s a new area, you can reduce the interval to 25 feet x 25 feet so you can plant up to 69 trees. Usually, you can leave the planting holes open for two weeks before filling them up again. Only then must you plant the jackfruit. Remember that when propagating, you should not cover the bud patch with soil. Otherwise, it might cause the bud patch to die. You can also minimize the amount of sunlight by making a shade out of coconut fronds. After two weeks, if the weather is fine, you can remove the shading. If not, leave it as is and wait for another week before exposing your tree to the sun. Soil Requirements When propagating a jackfruit tree, the soil must be loam, fertile, well-drained, and contain a pH value of 6.0- 7.5. The tree can’t tolerate waterlogging, so there must be good drainage. Giving the soil extra nutrition through organic fertilizers can help in growing the tree. Lands near river beds are perfect for cultivating jackfruit. Fertilization and Irrigation Propagating seeds requires plenty of nitrogen fertilizer while bearing jackfruit trees need the application of potash and phosphorous. If there is no soil analysis available for your land, apply compost or manure at the rate of 3 kgs per plant. After a month of planting the seeds, use 150 g of ammonium sulfate per plant. After six months, use the same amount of ammonium sulfate until the rainy season ends. Experts recommend using organic fertilizer around the plants. When the tree starts to bear fruits during the rainy season, apply 0.5 to 2 kg complete fertilizer and 300 g of potash per plant. Repeat after six months at the rate of 1.5 kg to 3 kg per plant. You don’t have to worry so much about the water requirement during jackfruit propagation. Only irrigate your farm if extreme drought occurs. Pruning Start pruning the tree when it reaches two years old. Cut the topmost part of the main trunk to regulate the height, leaving three meters from the ground. Then, apply some fungicide to the cut area. When you prune trees, you need to remove the unproductive, diseased, and insect-damaged branches. The removal of these branches results in healthier fruits. Thai people follow a uniform pruning system – pruning the main stem above the bud union to induce branches close to the ground. They allow the main trunk to carry the fruits rather than distributing them on all the branches. This system allows the tree center to penetrate more light, and it promotes better air movement. It also encourages a more lateral growth instead of vertical growth. However, never remove a third of all the branches. Prune only the tree after harvesting the fruit. Training in Jackfruit Farming You must keep the tree to a single trunk and remove the early side branches to allow a uniform and smooth trunk to develop up to a height of two meters. Then, when it reaches this height requirement, the side branches are now allowed to grow. It is also essential to keep the flower buds appearing on the main trunk free from vegetative growth. Jackfruit Care Caring for jackfruit trees is relatively easy as long as the climate is suitable. These trees need ample warmth and sunlight. When you plant a tree initially, pick a young one without any sign of disease. Look for a nursery tree wherein the roots have not yet outgrown its container. Otherwise, the tree won’t grow normally, even if you transfer it to the ground. As a result, it impedes the growth of the tree throughout its lifespan. Make sure that the planting site has enough space. Don’t plant near the other trees or structures because the jackfruit tree can grow quite huge. And moving your jackfruit tree poses many problems for both you and the health of the tree. The key is to keep the ground moist, especially for younger jackfruit trees because they are still growing. Additionally, weeding around the tree to avoid competition with other plants for moisture and nutrients in the soil is a good idea. It also helps to mulch around the tree to retain soil moisture and suppress the weeds. Weeding and mulching help keep the roots warm, especially during colder temperatures. There is good news associated with growing jackfruit trees. Jackfruit doesn’t have many serious issues with pests and diseases, even though many types of wildlife are attracted to this fruit. So it is a relatively low-maintenance tree to have on your property. Light As mentioned, the jackfruit tree needs ample sunlight to grow well and bear fruits. On most days, the tree must be exposed directly to full sunlight for at least six hours. If it’s grown in a shady area, it might not bear much fruit or maybe none at all. Soil The soil must be rich in nutrients, and excellent drainage is also a must-have. While the tree isn’t overly picky about the soil pH, it grows best if the soil is slightly acidic. Water Jackfruit, as a tropical plant, likes consistently moist soil all year round. So, when the ground starts to dry out because of extreme heat or lack of rainfall, you must water it frequently. Ensure that the roots are not sitting in a water pool because it inhibits fruit production and eventually kills the tree. Temperature and Humidity The jackfruit tree loves a warm climate and is very tolerant of heat. However, it’s susceptible to frost and temperatures below 35 degrees F, especially younger trees. Low temperatures can weaken or kill the tree quickly. Additionally, jackfruit prefers humid conditions and doesn’t grow in dry climates unless the soil is well-watered. This means you’ll likely be in USDA Hardiness Zone 10-12 if you plan to successfully grow these trees. Jackfruit is a popular tree in Florida, and other states with a wet climate. Fertilizer It’s best to apply fertilizers during the rainy season. In the case of irrigated farming, apply fertilizers twice a year. It’s also beneficial to use mixed compost, manure, or fertilizers in a circular trench 50 cm away from the main trunk annually. Pest and Diseases Since the commercial production of jackfruit in the United States is limited, there is still ongoing research on jackfruit pests and diseases. Some of the pests and conditions to look out for include the following: Soft Rot or Fruit Rot This disease happens when fungi attack the male inflorescences and young fruits of the jackfruit tree. As a result, only a tiny percentage of the fruits reach full maturity. Thankfully, the matured fruits and inflorescences are generally not attacked. The soft rot disease causes a large number of fruits to fall off early. During the early stage, the fungus may appear as greyish growth. Then, it becomes denser and turns into a black growth. The fungus continues to spread until the entire fruit or inflorescence falls off. This disease is usually common in humid, warm, and rainy conditions. Dieback You know a jackfruit tree has a dieback disease when you see a few discolorations or darkening of the tree bark. When the disease advances, the green twigs start to wither at the base and extend outwards along the leaf edges. The leaves then turn brown, and the margins start to roll upwards. During this stage, the twigs die, wither and fall. There might also be gum exudation from the affected branches primarily caused by shoot borers. These infected twigs can cause the spread of dieback disease. It is common in rainy areas where the relative humidity is above 80%, and the temperature ranges between 77 degrees Fahrenheit and 88 degrees Fahrenheit. Leaf Spot Another disease affecting the jackfruit tree is the leaf spot which produces dark red spots on the surface of the leaves. It turns into dark greyish color upon maturity and infecting young expanding leaves. This disease is common in areas with a relative humidity of 95% and temperatures of around 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Rust Rust usually develops during late summer, and when it affects the tree, it causes defoliation in just a few weeks. If not treated and continues to occur regularly, the tree’s growth reduces, affecting its yield. Initial symptoms of fig rust include small and yellowish spots on the top surface of the leaves. When these lesions grow more prominent, the color turns reddish-brown, but the leaves remain smooth. Heavily infected leaves mostly turn brown or yellow, especially along the edges, and they prematurely drop. Rust primarily survives through thick-walled and resting spores called teliospores on the leaves, and it spreads through wind-born uredospores coming from an infected tree. Pink Disease Another widespread disease attacking the jackfruit tree is Pink Disease. This condition is prevalent in tropical and subtropical areas. It shows as a pink powdery coating on the parts of the stem. This pink-colored coating is the profuse conidial fungus production. Typically, it attacks the young woody branches, and the tree eventually loses its leaves, showing dieback symptoms. You can generally find the encrustation on the lower shaded part. Jackfruit Insect Pests The jackfruit tree is not only attacked by certain diseases but also by insect pests. Below are some of the insect pests commonly found in jackfruit trees. Shoot and fruit borer – The shoot and fruit borer is one of the most common insect pests attacking jackfruit trees. The female borers lay eggs, and they develop very quickly, especially during the fruiting and flowering period of the tree. Spittlebugs – Pine spittlebugs lie dormant as eggs insert into dead branches. These eggs hatch, and the young nymphs slowly migrate to the other parts of the tree. The larvae feed on the branches of the tree. Mealybug – The female mealybugs lay their eggs in a fluted ovisac attached directly to their body on the host tree. These bugs have white-colored powder coating their body, and they colonize on barks of the main trunk, panicles, and young shoots. They produce a sticky substance, honeydew, which is responsible for sooty mold development. Bud weevil – The smooth, pearly white, oval eggs of a bud weevil measure 0.42 mm in length and 0.28 mm in width. This small whitish insect pest bore into fruits and tender flower buds, causing them to drop prematurely. The brownish-grey adult bud weevil can be customarily found nibbling the leaves of the jackfruit tree. Bark-eating caterpillars – These bark-eating caterpillars have dirty dark-browned heads and bodies and grow up to 60 mm long. When the eggs hatch, the larvae nibble the tree’s bark, disturbing the continuous flow of sap. As a result, the tree has less fruiting and poor overall growth. Aphid – Another common pest attacking the jackfruit trees is the aphid. Adult aphids lay their white eggs along the veins of the leaves. The nymphs and adult aphids both suck the sap coming from the leaves, pods, and buds. Infected leaves curl up, and at the advanced stage, the tree can start to wither and eventually die. The plant remains stunted, and the insects continue to excrete honey due to where sooty molds grow. Leaf Webber – The minute eggs of a leaf Webber only measure about 0.8 mm in length and 0.6 mm in width. They have varying shapes from sphere to flat, and color from white to yellow, which only changes after one day. The adult webbers lay their eggs on the flower, buds, and other parts of the plant that are actively growing. You can usually find the eggs in small clusters, with two to seven eggs per cluster. The Webbers grow very quickly – they hatch eggs in about four days, and each production has around four hundred eggs per female Webber. They cause interruption of the transport of water and nutrients on the plants, which causes drying of the terminal shoot during the early stage of development. Stem borer – The female stem borers slit the tree’s bark, and they lay up to two hundred eggs directly into these cuts. The brownish white cylindrical eggs have narrow and rounded ends. When these eggs hatch, the larvae tunnel into the branches and sapwood of the trunk. Sap oozes out from several points, causing the wilting of the stems and, eventually, the death of the tree. Castor capsule borer – The female capsule borer lays eggs on the tender portions of the tree. The caterpillars bore into planting material capsules, causing severe damage to the tree. Now that you know of the most common Jackfruit pests, you can be on the lookout and prevent these common problems. Integrated Pest Management for Jackfruit To properly care for the jackfruit, integrated pest management must cover all of the tree development stages. Here are some of the best practices of pest management for the jackfruit tree: Pre-Planting Here are the best practices for the pre-planting stage: Conduct deep orchard plowing right after harvesting to expose the pupae and eggs of the mealy bugs. There is a need for heavy irrigation to help destroy the eggs of the mealy bugs. Once the webs of bark-eating caterpillars no longer exist, adopt the following measures: Plug all the borer holes, except for the fresh ones, with mud plastering. Next, dig pits with the dimensions of 1 x 1 x 1 m3 and fill up these pits with a mixture of topsoil, neem cake, and farmyard manure per pit. You may feel like skipping these steps, but remember, pre-planting care is vital for the survival of your Jackfruit. Planting Here are the best practices for the planting stage: Check frequently to see if there are new emerging sprouts from the rootstock and remove them. Constantly shift the grafts from one point to another to avoid the striking of roots into the ground. Do the transplanting of the saplings into pits that are already full of farmyard manure. Additionally, make sure to remove weeds from the area before transplanting.