Carrots are one of the most popular vegetables in gardens around the world. But to get the perfect harvest, you need the perfect formula of soil conditions, climate, watering schedule, and more. In this article, gardening expert and farm owner Taylor Sievers examines how to plant, grow, and care for carrots in your garden. Many garden vegetables taste the best when they’re picked fresh from a backyard garden. Their taste and texture can’t compare to the vegetables that sit idle in a delivery truck or in a grocery store for sometimes weeks at a time. The carrot is one of those vegetables! The best part is that carrots are relatively desirable to grow for the home gardener due to very little incidence of disease, their long storage potential, and their ability to be grown during the cooler months of the year. It’s no wonder that this vegetable crop has been a staple in the garden for centuries! Carrots are a member of the Apiaceae family (also known as Umbelliferae), and this family also includes such herbs as parsnip, fennel, celery, cilantro, anise, angelica, and dill. Amongst the common cultivated herbs and vegetables mentioned here, there are also several “weedy” species in the Apiaceae family that you can often find growing on local roadside, one of which is believed to be the ancestor to modern-day carrots, and today is known as wild carrot or Queen Anne’s Lace. Some of these related “weedy” Apiaeceae species are not so pleasant, such as the deadly poison hemlock (Conium maculatum). If you’re looking for an easy-to-grow and easy-to-store vegetable to grow in your home garden, then I’d say carrots might be the vegetables for you. They’re high in vitamin A and fiber and have a multitude of ways that they can be preserved, stored, and used in recipes. Read on to learn more about these crisp, tasty roots and their interesting history! The History of the Carrot When you think of the modern cultivated carrot plant, what comes to mind? Instantly, images of long, tapered, orange roots with ferny foliage may surface. However, did you know that carrots weren’t originally orange? Or that carrot varieties can actually be shaped differently? Let’s dive into some carrot history to learn more about these staple vegetables. Wild Roots Domesticated carrots were believed to have originated from the wild carrot (Daucus carota), a plant that has spread throughout much of the temperate world and is known as a weed by many. Wild carrot is indigenous to Europe, North Africa, and Western Asia. Wild carrot was reportedly used as a medicinal plant in ancient Rome. It was used as an aphrodisiac and in mixtures to help prevent poisoning. A Roman army physician named Pedanius Dioscordines wrote about both wild and cultivated forms of carrots in 65 B.C. He wrote that wild carrot could ward off reptiles and act as an aphrodisiac and diuretic. The cultivated forms were reported to be more palatable but less used for medicinal purposes. Wild carrot and its relatives were repeatedly mentioned throughout history by many different names. Throughout the Dark and Medieval Ages, carrots and parsnips (Pastinaca sativa; a similar-looking root crop that looks like a white carrot) were important starchy staples for the European diet. The Cultivation of Carrots The first evidence of carrot cultivation was on the Iranian plateau in Persia in the 10th century. Carrots that were domesticated in central Asia were actually purple, yellow, and white – not orange. The wild carrot itself has a white, forked taproot. It is believed that over time selections were made that led to a single, thick taproot with few forks, and then genetic mutations occurred which gave rise to colors in the roots. Cultivated carrots would spread to Syria and then Europe around 1100. During the Arab expansion into Europe, cultivated carrots were brought to the area of Andalusia (Spain). From Spain, carrot cultivation spread into the rest of northern Europe. The first carrots that were brought over to Europe were either purple or a mutant of the purple carrot that appeared yellow. The carrots were purple because they contained high amounts of anthocyanins, a pigment compound touted today for its antioxidant properties. The yellow carrots were believed to have mutated from the purple carrots and simply lacked anthocyanins. It was said that people preferred cooking with yellow carrots because the anthocyanins in the purple carrots would stain cooking water and cookware. Modern Carrots The orange carrot that we know today was believed to have come about due to hybridizing the yellow carrots brought over from Asia with relatives like the wild carrot and other wild subspecies native to the Mediterranean region. The first cultivation of orange carrots in Europe is believed to have been in the 1500s. The Dutch led the orange carrot breeding movement and eventually developed orange carrot varieties that were notably sweeter. Meanwhile in East Asia, the carrot was being cultivated and crossed there as well. The cultivation of these two types of the same species has led to two categories of carrots: Eastern/Asiatic Anthocyanin Carrots (Daucus carota subsp. sativus var. atrorubens Alef.) – These carrots are shorter, thicker, and generally lacking in carotenoid content. They are normally purple, though some are yellow. Eastern carrots were widely cultivated in Turkey, India, Afghanistan, Egypt, and Pakistan. Western or Carotene Carrots (Daucus carota subsp. sativus var. sativus) – These carrots are long and tapered in appearance and are usually orange or red in color. Carotene carrots are believed to have come from progeny between crosses of the Eastern yellow carrot, wild carrots, and Mediterranean subspecies. Around 1530 was the first mention of the word “carrot” in English. This was borrowed from the French word “carrotte” and from the Latin “carota.” Carrots and parsnips were not clearly distinguished in English due to their similar appearances (because carrots were more yellow or white then). Both carrots and parsnips were simply called “more” or “moru” (from the word “mork,” meaning edible root). In 1609, the pilgrims brought carrots to America, where they quickly became a part of the Native American diet as well. Then, in 1788, the carrot made its way to Australia with the British. In culture and cookbooks after its introduction, the carrot was extolled for its tastiness, versatility in many recipes and dishes, and its role as a staple in the garden. The Carrot Legend During World War II, the carrot came back to the forefront of people’s minds as a campaign was led to promote the eating of carrots, which were not as scarce as other food crops at the time. The British government touted that the Royal Air Force pilots could see so well because they ate special high carotene carrots, which improved their night vision. This was a way for the government to keep quiet the fact that the RAF was using a new airborne radar system, but nevertheless, the legend that carrots can cure night blindness spread. Carrots are high in vitamin A, and a lack of vitamin A can cause night blindness. However, there’s no evidence to indicate eating a lot of carrots can significantly improve your vision to supernatural levels. Carrots in the US After making yet another comeback in the 1960s and 1970s in pre-packaged form, carrots are now regularly sold at grocery stores and farmer’s markets alike. Not only are carrots sold fresh for consumption today, but the pigments (particularly purple carrots) are used to color fruit juices, candles, and other fruit preparations. Modern carrot breeding has also led to varieties with higher carotene content. United States carrot consumption peaked in 1997 with Americans consuming 14.1 lbs per person, but this number has since dropped off to 7.71 lbs per person in 2020. California produces 85% of carrots consumed in the United States, likely due to their year-round production ability. Michigan and Texas are also important carrot-producing states today. Description of Carrot Plant Carrot plants are not so easily distinguishable from their wild relatives, like Queen Anne’s Lace. The foliage is described as ferny or feathery, reaching up to 12+ inches in height. The plant is actually a biennial (flowering in the second year), but for production purposes, the carrot is grown as an annual. A basal rosette of leaves forms during the first year, and the plant will remain like this until bolting in the second year when it sends up a flower stalk that can reach up to 3 feet tall. Temperatures must be under 50⁰F to induce flowering, and if harvesting the roots to eat then bolting is undesirable. The plant produces a large, single (ideally), fleshy taproot. Carrot roots can be short and wide or long and tapered. This depends greatly on the variety and various soil characteristics. Propagation The best way to propagate carrots is by direct seeding them into the garden or a raised bed. Starting seeds in trays or pots and then transplanting them is not recommended, because carrots have a long taproot. Plants that have this long taproot characteristic (compared to a fine, branching fibrous root system) typically do not handle transplanting very well. Carrot seeds are small, brown, and light in weight. Moisten the soil before planting and sow the seeds in rows. Cover the seeds with a ¼ inch of light, loose soil to prevent the seeds from floating or blowing away. Space your carrot rows 12 to 18 inches apart, and sow the seeds about 1 inch apart in the row. You will need to thin the seedlings so that the plants are 2 to 3 inches apart in the row after germination. Germination can take up to 3 weeks. Some growers will plant rows closer together in a bed system, and there are many special seeders for the home or market gardener sold today specifically for carrot production. When to Plant Carrots As soon as the soil temperature has reached 40⁰F, carrot seeds can be planted, even if the last estimated frost for your area has not occurred. Carrots are considered a cool-season vegetable and can be grown in either the fall or early spring. Carrots prefer soil temperatures between 55 and 75⁰F, so seeds will germinate much faster under these conditions. Carrots can be grown earlier in the season in hot desert climates. Temperatures above 80⁰F will reduce seed germination. The higher summer temperatures will reduce the growth of carrot plants and also decrease the quality of the roots by causing bitter or off-flavors. If you prefer to have successions of harvests you can plant carrots every 4 weeks until mid-summer. How to Grow Carrots When growing carrots, there are many different factors that you’ll want to get correct in order to have a bountiful harvest. You’ll need to make sure you are on a proper watering schedule, have the right soil type, fertilizers, and keep up with routine maintenance. Let’s look at the most important factors to get correct when growing carrots. Water Keep the soil evenly moist to ensure that your plants germinate and grow together. Overwatering will promote hairy roots and forking, so to keep even moisture without overwatering try mulching around your carrots to help conserve moisture. Fluctuations in moisture will cause certain root disorders, bitterness, and root cracking. Drip irrigation is a great way to keep your carrot beds moist without flooding the area. Soil When choosing a site to plant your carrots, keep in mind that carrots prefer well-drained, loose soils rich in organic matter with full sun (6+ hours of direct sunlight per day). Carrots can also be grown in partial sun (2 to 6 hours of direct sunlight per day). Soils with higher sand content will be preferred. If your soil has high clay content, consider amending with compost or growing your carrots in a raised bed. Loose soils allow for good root development. When plants first germinate, the two cotyledons (baby leaves) will be grass-like in appearance. The new leaves that emerge after the cotyledons will be more fern-like in appearance. These are considered “true” leaves. When the plant has at least 3 to 4 true leaves, you can thin out our carrot plants by simply plucking unwanted seedlings from the soil. Thin so that your carrot plants are at least 2 inches apart, and for larger varieties, you can thin seedlings so that they are up to 4 inches apart. Fertilizing Add well-rotted manure or compost in the spring or fall will help increase soil fertility. Some sources say that when your carrots are 4 inches tall you can fertilize them with high nitrogen or nitrogen-only fertilizer by applying to the side of the carrot row and watering the fertilizer into the soil. Fertilizers are typically labeled with three numbers which indicate the levels of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (N-P-K) in that particular fertilizer. An example would be 18-46-0, which would indicate that the fertilizer has 18% nitrogen, 46% phosphorus, and 0% potassium. A nitrogen-only fertilizer would be one like 34-0-0 or 21-0-0. Always follow instructions on the manufacturer’s label when applying pre-packaged organic and synthetic fertilizers. Fish emulsion is an organic fertilizer that is typically higher in nitrogen and is sold in jugs at hardware stores and gardening centers alike. Maintenance Some varieties will naturally push up out of the soil as their roots grow so that the tops will be exposed to sunlight. You can push the soil up around the exposed top so that it does not turn green. Good weed control is important because carrots do not compete well with weeds, especially in the beginning stages of growth. If you choose to cultivate between rows, make sure to keep away from plants in order that you do not damage the roots. Mulching with grass clippings, straw, or other organic materials will help to conserve soil moisture and prevent weed growth.

Are you looking for the ultimate spreading flower for your garden beds or containers? Wave petunias are a wonderful hybrid that will transform your garden. In this article, plant expert Matt Dursum covers how to plant, grow, and care for these stunning bloomers. Wave® petunias are some of the most stunning flowers for spreading over beds and containers. They spread fast and cover surfaces with waves of color, true to their name. They almost form carpets of colorful blooms in magnificent pinks, lavender, and lilac. Besides their color and vigorous growing habit, they’re easy to maintain. If you’re a novice gardener, you’ll love their carefree nature. Grow them in containers, hanging gardens, garden beds, or in your favorite pots. Keep reading below to learn how to grow these wonderful petunia varieties. They’ll quickly become one of your favorite flowers. What Is It? Wave® petunias are hybrid petunia varieties that have a spreading growth habitat. The Japanese beer maker Kirin partnered with PanAmerican Seed to create a new petunia variety in 1995. They wanted a petunia that would stun the world with its beauty. The first Wave® petunia was the Purple Classic. Since then, the company has marketed the flowers around the world. The Home and Garden Television Network (HGTV) first broadcasted the flowers on US television in 1999 as an advertisement. Today, Wave® petunias are some of the world’s most beloved petunia varieties. You can find several cultivars, including ‘Carmine Velour,’ ‘Lavender,’ and ‘Misty Lilac.’ Characteristics Like other petunia varieties, Wave® hybrids grow vigorously. They can grow as tender perennials or as annuals. They can be sensitive to cold and need plenty of warmth and sunshine to thrive. As they grow, they spread out to form a carpet-like cluster of flowers around a foot high. The blooms last for the entire summer if they’re well cared for. Native Area As mentioned before, these petunias are hybrids. However, the genus Petunia comes from South America. Its origins lie in the vast plains of Uruguay, Argentina, and Brazil. European horticulturalists first started hybridizing petunias in the 19th century. Since then, new hybrids created five distinct types of plants in the genus. Grandiflora produce huge flowers up to 5 inches wide while milliflora flowers stay under 2 inches. Multiflora varieties produce tons of flowers, while floribundas combine the traits of multiflora and grandiflora. Wave® petunias are trailing varieties grown for their spreading growing habits. Planting These hybrids grow great in just about any container or garden bed. They’ll thrive as hanging plants or spread out like carpets of colorful ground cover.

On most plants, whether it’s ornamentals or edibles, the appearance of flowers is a reason to cheer. That is not the case, however, when certain herbs and vegetables send up flower stalks and go to seed. This process, called bolting, greatly affects their taste and makes your precious garden crops inedible. Find out from an expert in the field why bolting happens in plants, what you can do to prevent it, and which types of herbs and vegetables may bolt. Meet the Expert Benjamin Phillips is a vegetable crops educator at Southwest Michigan Research and Extension Center of Michigan State University. What Is Bolting? Bolting is a reaction of cool-season crops to warmer temperatures and longer days, when a rapid shift in a plant’s hormones triggers flowering. “These plants start to produce the hormones for flowering after their chilling threshold—a certain number of hours at cool temperatures—has been reached,” says Benjamin Phillips, vegetable crops educator at Michigan State University. Bolting occurs once the period of cold exposure, called vernalization, is complete. “Warm and hot days accelerate the plants’ flower development,” Phillips explains. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Difference Between Bolting and Regular Blooming “For vegetables that don’t produce harvestable fruit, bolting is usually undesirable,” says Phillips. It is a premature flowering and seed production that cuts short the usability of the crops for consumption because the taste of the leaves turns bitter, and their growth is stunted. Regular blooming, on the other hand, is a desirable part of a plant’s lifecycle. Plants such as tomatoes produce flowers that are then pollinated and become fruit. How to Keep a Plant From Bolting To prevent plants from bolting, Phillips has a few suggestions. All of them require acting early, long before the plants are in your garden and about to bolt. Store Seeds in the Freezer The stage at which crops are receptive to cold exposure varies; for some of the crops, the receptiveness starts when they are seeds. “The bottom threshold for accumulating chill hours is 32°F," says Phillips. He recommends storing seeds like seed at below freezing temperatures. “When you plant them, they will start accumulating vernalization points, but storing the seeds at freezing point will give you more time before the potential bolting process of the plants could start if the conditions are present," he says. Don’t Plant Too Early Seeding or transplanting too early in the spring can give plants enough time to reach their vernalization points. But the caveat is that they will then go straight to flowering instead of making lots of leaves or roots, Phillips explains. Select Suitable Varieties Choosing an appropriate variety for your planting season and location is equally important. “Broccoli and cauliflower are flower buds, and we want these to go through a cold period,” Phillips says. A variety adapted to your area or planting season will usually vernalize just fine, however, rare open-pollinated varieties from exotic places are less likely to succeed. “You may find that a particular heirloom Romanesco cauliflower isn’t receptive to the temperatures in a typical spring in your area and will grow all summer into a massive pile of leaves without producing a head," Phillips says. You can also look for varieties that are labeled as bolt-resistant such as 'Slo-Bolt' cilantro and 'Bloomsdale' spinach. What to Do If Plants Already Bolted If you have been unsuccessful in preventing or delaying the bolting, there are a few things you do. At the first sign of bolting, if the plant is starting to shoot up but has not developed flower heads yet, harvest as many of the leaves as possible. If it is still early, the flavor might not yet be affected, and they might still be good to eat. Don’t wait, as the quality declines quickly, and a day or two can make all the difference. If the plant is an open-pollinated heirloom variety, let the plant go to seed and collect the mature, dried seeds for your garden next year. This only makes sense for heirloom seeds, not for hybrid seeds (identified as F1 in seed catalogs), because these plants are created through controlled crossbreeding, and the seeds from those plants don't produce plants that are true to the parent. Let the plant bloom—the nectar and pollen attract pollinators which improve the pollination of other garden crops such as summer squash that heavily rely on pollinators for a good crop. As a last resort, pull the plant. Plants You Should Always Keep From Bolting This is a list of crops that can potentially bolt depending on when they were planted and how long they were exposed to their required cold temperatures. Spells of warm weather during the cold period and other factors also play a role in the likelihood of bolting.1 Not all crops on this list are equally prone to bolting. The most notorious crops to bolt include cilantro, lettuce, and spinach. Cilantro Lettuce Radicchio Beets Swiss chard Spinach Basil Bok choy Broccoli Brussels sprouts Cabbage Cauliflower Collard greens Kale Kohlrabi Mizuna greens Radish Rutabaga Turnip Carrots Celery Parsley Parsnip Members of the allium family (bulb-forming onions, shallots, leeks, garlic)