Champagne grapes have intensely sweet berries perfect for fresh eating and cooking. These miniature grapes pack more flavor than their size suggests. Gardening expert Madison Moulton explains how to grow these delightful table grapes successfully. When most people think of growing grapes, they picture large vines or pergolas draped with foliage. But there is a more adorable way to grow grapes, and eat them too. Champagne grapes have tiny clusters of intensely sweet berries that are perfect for snacking, garnishing, and cooking. Don’t let the name fool you though, as these aren’t used for making actual champagne. More on that later. The challenge with champagne grapes is that their small size makes them more delicate than standard grape varieties. They need careful handling and specific growing conditions to produce those perfect miniature clusters. Here’s everything you need to know about growing these specialty grapes in your own garden. What Is It? Champagne grapes aren’t actually a single variety but rather a term for several types of tiny grapes. These produce berries that are roughly the size of small peas, clustered tightly together in small, elegant bunches. The berries are typically dark purple to black when ripe, with an incredibly sweet, concentrated flavor that’s much more intense than larger grapes. Each berry contains tiny seeds that are barely noticeable when eating, making them perfect for fresh consumption. What makes these grapes special is their incredible sweetness and unique texture. The small size means the skin-to-flesh ratio is higher than regular grapes, giving them a more concentrated flavor that’s prized by chefs and food enthusiasts. Characteristics The most obvious characteristic you’ll notice is size. These grapes are tiny compared to standard varieties. Individual berries rarely exceed 1/4 inch in diameter, clustering together in small, tight bunches that are usually only a few inches long. The vines themselves are vigorous growers that can reach 10 feet long or more if left unpruned. They produce heart-shaped leaves typical of grape vines, with good fall color in many climates. The growth habit is similar to wine grapes, with strong woody canes that need support. Champagne grapes are typically seedless or nearly seedless, though some varieties may have very small, soft seeds. The berries have thin skins that are easy to bite through, and the flesh is incredibly sweet with a pleasant, slightly tart finish. Harvest timing is crucial because these grapes can go from perfectly ripe to overripe very quickly due to their small size and thin skins. Native Area Most champagne grape varieties originate from the Mediterranean region, particularly Greece and surrounding areas. The Black Corinth variety that’s commonly sold as champagne grapes has been cultivated in Greece for over 2,000 years. These grapes evolved in a climate with hot, dry summers and mild, wet winters. The Mediterranean climate provides the long, warm growing season these grapes need to develop their characteristic sweetness, along with the dry conditions that help prevent fungal diseases. The original growing regions have rocky, well-draining soils and plenty of sunshine, which influences how these grapes perform in cultivation. Understanding this background helps explain their specific growing requirements. Planting Spring planting works best for champagne grapes in most climates. You want to get them established during the growing season so they can develop strong root systems before winter arrives. In mild climates, fall planting can work, but spring gives you the best chance of success. They need full sun (at least 6-8 hours daily) and excellent air circulation to prevent disease problems. Choose a spot with well-draining soil where water doesn’t collect after rain. Plant bare-root vines in early spring while they’re still dormant. Dig holes wide enough to spread the roots comfortably, but don’t plant too deeply. Container plants can go in the ground once soil temperatures warm up. Space plants about 6 feet apart if you’re growing multiple vines. They’ll need sturdy support structures, so install trellises or posts before planting to avoid disturbing the roots later.

With a tart and floral flavor, yuzu fruits provide a uniquely refreshing taste to sauces and marinades. Join plant expert Briana Yablonski as she explains how to grow this cold-hardy citrus at home. While you’re probably familiar with lemons, oranges, and limes, you can grow many other citrus plants at home. Take yuzu, for instance. These cold-hardy plants can tolerate temperatures that would cause many other types of citrus to perish, making them a good year-round addition to many outdoor gardens. With the proper care, yuzu plants will eventually produce round yellow or orange fruits that resemble bumpy mandarin oranges. Despite their appearance, the sour yuzu fruits aren’t great for fresh eating. However, the tart juice and refreshing zest have a unique flavor that makes an excellent addition to marinades, cocktails, and salad dressings. If you want to try growing yuzu at home, you’re in luck! As long as you provide the proper environment and practice a bit of patience, you can enjoy fresh yuzu fruits within a few years. What Is Yuzu? Yuzu is similar to many other types of citrus plants, with a few unique characteristics. If you think you’d like to add a yuzu to your collection, here’s what you can expect. Characteristics While all yuzu plants grow as evergreen perennials, the rootstock determines their final height. Plants on mature rootstocks can grow up to 20 feet tall, while those with dwarfing rootstocks cap out at about five feet tall. All types of yuzu produce deep green leaves with elongated petioles (leaf stems). These petioles appear to resemble small leaves, so the combination of leaf and petiole looks like two conjoined leaves. Yuzu plants take multiple years to reach maturity, so they won’t produce flowers during their first year of growth. When the plants are old enough, they’ll send out small, white flowers in the late winter or spring. These flowers closely resemble other types of citrus blooms, with five white petals and yellow stamens. After successful pollination, small green fruits appear in the center of the flowers. Eventually, the petals drop, and the fruits grow until they’re about three inches in diameter. Fully grown fruits begin to change color to deep yellow or light orange and are ready for harvest during the winter. Native Area Yuzu originated somewhere in Central China near Tibet, where it continues to grow today. The tree isn’t a distinct species but rather an F1 hybrid of two other citrus trees: the mandarin orange and the pithy Ichang papeda. Although yuzu plants first appeared in China, humans brought this citrus to Japan sometime near the end of the first millennium. Since then, they’ve been grown throughout the country. Planting While adding any plant to my home is exciting, bringing home a citrus plant like yuzu makes me feel like a kid on Christmas morning. If you’re anything like me, it’s easy to let the enthusiasm of a new citrus tree prevent you from adequately preparing for its arrival. So stop, take a breath, and keep these tips in mind.

Whether you’re growing them indoors for their tropical foliage or outdoors to harvest the delicious fruits, banana plants are wonderfully rewarding additions to any tropical garden. Gardening expert Madison Moulton discusses her first-hand tips for reaping the most from your banana plants. There are few gardening experiences that beat tasting home-grown fruit. The flavors are so much richer and sweeter than grocery store produce, made even more delicious by the effort you put in to grow them. Of all the fruits I’ve grown over the years, from lemons to litchis, one of the most rewarding has been bananas. This common fruit doesn’t excite many gardeners, but the boost in flavor and the amount you get to harvest each year makes growing them worthwhile. If you live in a tropical climate, banana plants are the perfect first fruit to try growing on your own. The tropical leaves also make attractive houseplants if you’re happy to sacrifice the harvesting aspect of growth. Successful banana growing isn’t difficult, but does require some essential knowledge of the plant and its structure. Follow this guide to find out everything you need to know. What Is It? The banana plant, part of the Musa genus, is an often misunderstood member of the plant kingdom. Despite its tree-like appearance, it’s actually classified as an herbaceous plant (and the biggest herb you can grow) with a pseudostem rather than a trunk. What’s even more fascinating is the fruit itself. The banana fruit is technically a berry and grows in clusters called hands, while individual bananas are referred to as fingers. Banana plants are an essential agricultural commodity in tropical and subtropical regions. But it’s not just the fruit that’s valuable. Other parts of the plant (particularly the leaves) are utilized in various dishes, making the banana plant a wonderfully versatile plant to grow in your garden. Their ability to thrive in a range of conditions and adaptability make bananas a great choice for gardeners in warmer climates. History Originally domesticated in Southeast Asia, banana plants are believed to have been cultivated as early as 8,000 BCE. Banana cultivation spread via trade routes early on, when Arab traders played a crucial role in introducing bananas to the Middle East. From there, the fruit found its way to Europe. It wasn’t until the late 19th century that bananas became a common fruit on the market. Modern transportation and refrigeration created space for the export of bananas from tropical regions to colder climates, turning what was once a unique luxury into an everyday staple. Historically, different banana varieties have been cultivated for different purposes. The bananas we commonly consume today come from cultivars and hybrids of Musa acuminata and Musa balbisiana species, or Musa × paradisiaca – a cross between the two. Characteristics Banana plants have a rather unique botanical structure and provide plenty of aesthetic value in tropical gardens. The stems, technically called pseudostems, are not woody as you would expect from its tree-like shape. Instead, they are made of a soft core surrounded by leaf sheaths, giving them the appearance of a tree without the same technical structure. These pseudostems can reach up to 20 feet in height, sporting long, glossy green leaves that also reach several feet in length. The leaves have stunning tropical flair, with an arching shape that instantly turns your backyard (or home) into a holiday paradise. Now to the important part – the fruits. Bananas develop in clusters known as hands that are larger than you might expect. Charmingly referred to as fingers, individual bananas grow without seeds in most commercial varieties. The fruit’s skin color varies throughout the season, changing from green when unripe to classic yellow when ready to eat. The fruits also vary in texture, depending on the variety you’re growing. Varieties While most people are familiar with the standard yellow Cavendish banana – the type most often sold in grocery stores – growing your own opens a new world of opportunities. There are so many types to choose from, allowing you to grow something more unique you wouldn’t be able to find in a standard store. Even if you’re not a massive banana fan, exploring these different varieties is sure to boost your appreciation of these useful plants. Planting The best time to plant is late spring or early summer once the soil has warmed sufficiently, creating the ideal conditions for fast root growth. Replicating the native environments of the banana plant is key to growing success, starting with the right location. Choose a spot in full sun if you want as many fruits as possible. The soil should also be well-draining and away from areas where rain collects, as waterlogged conditions can quickly lead to root rot in rainy seasons. Banana plants are also sensitive to high winds, which can tear their leaves, especially soon after planting, while they try to establish strong roots. Plant near a windbreak or provide some protection to preserve the plant’s appearance and health later on. When selecting a plant at the nursery, look for ones with small, spear-shaped leaves that indicate healthy young growth. Look at the roots if you can, and choose plants with plump, healthy growth rather than long and stringy roots. Plants should be spaced approximately 8 feet apart to allow room for growth without overcrowding. Dwarf varieties can be planted slightly closer together if needed, but it’s far better to give your bananas more room to grow than less. After planting, water thoroughly to settle the roots.