A little bit sweet and a little bit tart, the marionberry is a delightful and delicious edible to add to the garden. Gardener and berry grower Lindsay Miller explains how to grow and care for marionberries. Vermont has maple syrup. Florida has oranges. Oregon has marionberries. Named for the Oregon county in which it was developed, marionberries are the result of cross-breeding ‘Chehalem’ and ‘Olallie’ blackberries. The final plant, which was released by the University of Oregon and the United States Department of Agriculture in the 1950’s, was the juicy, sweet-meets-tart ‘Marion’ blackberry, more commonly referred to as marionberry. Oregon continues to champion the marionberry to this day, and as a result, this delicious caneberry is widely adored by commercial growers and home gardeners alike. In 2008, Oregon growers produced over 39 million pounds of blackberries, with marionberries accounting for two-thirds of that crop. The state of Oregon even designated marionberry pie as its official state pie in 2017. The good news is that you don’t have to live in Oregon to enjoy growing (and consuming!) this beloved berry. Under the right conditions, marionberry is an easy-to-grow plant that thrives in the home garden. What Is It? Marionberries are a cane-producing perennial plant, along with raspberries and other blackberry hybrids. From their crown, they sprout thorn-covered, flexible, woody stems called canes, which will produce leaves, flowers, and fruit. Marionberries, like other blackberries, have a unique growth habit. While the roots and crown are perennial, the leaf and fruit-bearing canes above are biennial. Vegetative first-year canes (called “primocanes”) overwinter on the plant and then produce small white flowers, and subsequently, fruit in their second year. At this stage, they are called “floricanes”. Floricanes flower in late spring, and the plump, aromatic berries that appear in mid July are highly sought after for their sweet, yet earthy-rich flavor. If not immediately gobbled up fresh, berries can be turned into jams, baked into pies and tarts, tossed into salads and cocktails, and even cooked into pork chops. Planting Marionberries are difficult to start from seed and are generally grown from a transplant or bare root. For both methods, wait until the threat of frost has passed in the spring, and the soil can be easily worked.

Thinking of planting some jackfruit trees in your backyard, or somewhere in your home garden, but aren't sure where to start? Jackfruit can be a unique tree to grow, but they do best in certain hardiness zones, and perform well with certain soil types. Find out how to plant, grow, and care for Jackfruit in your backyard or home garden. Ever wonder what that giant melon-sized oblong fruit is when you pass by a local Asian produce section? That’s jackfruit. This spiny behemoth fruit is native to tropical parts of Southeast Asia. It’s susceptible to frost, can’t survive in drought, and only grows in humid tropical areas. Jackfruit is one of the most well-known fruit trees globally because it bears the most prominent and heaviest edible fruit that can weigh up to 50 kg. Aside from food, businesses can use the leaves, trunk, roots, and fruits commercially. Growing jackfruit is not tricky, but you need fresh seeds to get started. If you have ample space in your yard, you can grow this fruit crop quickly and reap its many benefits. Here’s everything you need to know about planting, growing, and caring for a jackfruit tree. Artocarpus Heterophyllus Basics Jackfruit also has outstanding nutritional value, and it doesn’t have any cholesterol or saturated fat. Jackfruit has more than enough fiber, potassium, and low calorie and sodium count for a healthy diet. Additionally, the fruit has vitamins and minerals, including vitamins A and C, copper, and magnesium. The fruit has been propagated traditionally from seeds. There are many variations in its shape, size, fruiting season, and quality. Types of Jackfruit Many cultivars and species of jackfruit are available across Asia, Africa, United States, and the Pacific. Since jackfruit is relatively new to the United States market, the optimal cultivars are still unknown for this region. In general, this fruit is available in two types: NangkaBelulang (firm) or NangkaBubur (soft), and it has several varieties, including: Black Gold – This cultivar is vigorous, having a dense canopy. It produces medium-sized fruits, weighing 6.7 kg on average. Golden Nugget – This variety is fast-growing, having unique dark green leaves and a dense canopy. It produces small-sized and rounded fruits that weigh around 3.2 kg on average. Golden Pillow – Its high quality and distinctive beauty characterize this variety. This small tree is highly manageable, and it produces small-sized fruits weighing 3.6-5.5 kg on average. Cochin – This variety is relatively tiny, forming an upright and sparse canopy. It produces small-sized fruits that are smoother than the other varieties. Dang Rasimi – This cultivar is open and fast-growing, and it needs annual pruning to maintain its height and spread. This tree is highly productive, bearing uniformly shaped fruits that come in varying colors from pale yellow to bright green. The Dang Rasimi needs more maintenance than other varieties of jackfruit. NS1 – This medium-sized tree has a dense and upright canopy. It produces dark green blocky fruits weighing around 4.2 kg. This cultivar also requires moderate yearly pruning. In the United States, the recommended varieties include the Golden Nugget, Black Gold, Dang Rasimi, and NS1. Developers came up with most of these cultivars in Malaysia or Australia. Generally, the outer skin of the jackfruit is composed of conical and hexagonal apices that turn from greenish to brownish-yellow when it matures. The pulp color also ranges from amber to orange to dark yellow. Each fruit contains 100 to 500 seeds with varying sizes from ¾ to 1.5 inches in diameter. You can cook and eat the seeds. Jackfruit seeds taste a little bit like chestnuts. When the tree or fruit is damaged, it produces a sticky, rubbery white latex, which you can use as paste or glue in various applications. Can I Grow Jackfruit From Seed? There are many reasons you should grow jackfruit. One of the most popular reasons is the delectable taste of its flesh. The fruit is enormous and can weigh up to 16 kg. When cooked, the meat has a similar texture to pork, making it an excellent alternative for vegetarians and vegans in just about any dish. The most common propagation method is growing from seeds. While growing from seeds is relatively easy, there are still several factors you must consider, such as their viability. Let’s take a look at some of the critical factors in successfully growing jackfruit. How to Grow Jackfruit Here are all the details you need to know about growing jackfruit. Growing Habit Even though jackfruit is a thorny tree, it can’t tolerate drought and frost. When it reaches maturity, it can withstand up to 118 degrees Fahrenheit heat and 32 degrees Fahrenheit cold, but only for a short time. Many varieties can grow up to 100 feet high. However, some types of jackfruit are known as dwarf varieties and only grow up to 20 feet tall. This tree has an average lifespan of more than 100 years, bearing fruit that weighs up to 50 kg. Propagating Jackfruit This tree is typically grown from seeds. When produced from seeds, you must pick the big, healthy seeds from the mother trees. Another method is asexual propagation. This method involves grafting and enriching the seeds. Cleft grafting is the most effective method because it can counter the adverse effects of a typhoon that can otherwise destroy giant trees. When you already found a place for planting jackfruit, clear the area first from old tree roots and stumps to prevent root disease and termites. Plough the soil first when necessary, then make rows to create planting intervals. On an acre of land, you can plant up to 48 jackfruit trees. If it’s a new area, you can reduce the interval to 25 feet x 25 feet so you can plant up to 69 trees. Usually, you can leave the planting holes open for two weeks before filling them up again. Only then must you plant the jackfruit. Remember that when propagating, you should not cover the bud patch with soil. Otherwise, it might cause the bud patch to die. You can also minimize the amount of sunlight by making a shade out of coconut fronds. After two weeks, if the weather is fine, you can remove the shading. If not, leave it as is and wait for another week before exposing your tree to the sun. Soil Requirements When propagating a jackfruit tree, the soil must be loam, fertile, well-drained, and contain a pH value of 6.0- 7.5. The tree can’t tolerate waterlogging, so there must be good drainage. Giving the soil extra nutrition through organic fertilizers can help in growing the tree. Lands near river beds are perfect for cultivating jackfruit. Fertilization and Irrigation Propagating seeds requires plenty of nitrogen fertilizer while bearing jackfruit trees need the application of potash and phosphorous. If there is no soil analysis available for your land, apply compost or manure at the rate of 3 kgs per plant. After a month of planting the seeds, use 150 g of ammonium sulfate per plant. After six months, use the same amount of ammonium sulfate until the rainy season ends. Experts recommend using organic fertilizer around the plants. When the tree starts to bear fruits during the rainy season, apply 0.5 to 2 kg complete fertilizer and 300 g of potash per plant. Repeat after six months at the rate of 1.5 kg to 3 kg per plant. You don’t have to worry so much about the water requirement during jackfruit propagation. Only irrigate your farm if extreme drought occurs. Pruning Start pruning the tree when it reaches two years old. Cut the topmost part of the main trunk to regulate the height, leaving three meters from the ground. Then, apply some fungicide to the cut area. When you prune trees, you need to remove the unproductive, diseased, and insect-damaged branches. The removal of these branches results in healthier fruits. Thai people follow a uniform pruning system – pruning the main stem above the bud union to induce branches close to the ground. They allow the main trunk to carry the fruits rather than distributing them on all the branches. This system allows the tree center to penetrate more light, and it promotes better air movement. It also encourages a more lateral growth instead of vertical growth. However, never remove a third of all the branches. Prune only the tree after harvesting the fruit. Training in Jackfruit Farming You must keep the tree to a single trunk and remove the early side branches to allow a uniform and smooth trunk to develop up to a height of two meters. Then, when it reaches this height requirement, the side branches are now allowed to grow. It is also essential to keep the flower buds appearing on the main trunk free from vegetative growth. Jackfruit Care Caring for jackfruit trees is relatively easy as long as the climate is suitable. These trees need ample warmth and sunlight. When you plant a tree initially, pick a young one without any sign of disease. Look for a nursery tree wherein the roots have not yet outgrown its container. Otherwise, the tree won’t grow normally, even if you transfer it to the ground. As a result, it impedes the growth of the tree throughout its lifespan. Make sure that the planting site has enough space. Don’t plant near the other trees or structures because the jackfruit tree can grow quite huge. And moving your jackfruit tree poses many problems for both you and the health of the tree. The key is to keep the ground moist, especially for younger jackfruit trees because they are still growing. Additionally, weeding around the tree to avoid competition with other plants for moisture and nutrients in the soil is a good idea. It also helps to mulch around the tree to retain soil moisture and suppress the weeds. Weeding and mulching help keep the roots warm, especially during colder temperatures. There is good news associated with growing jackfruit trees. Jackfruit doesn’t have many serious issues with pests and diseases, even though many types of wildlife are attracted to this fruit. So it is a relatively low-maintenance tree to have on your property. Light As mentioned, the jackfruit tree needs ample sunlight to grow well and bear fruits. On most days, the tree must be exposed directly to full sunlight for at least six hours. If it’s grown in a shady area, it might not bear much fruit or maybe none at all. Soil The soil must be rich in nutrients, and excellent drainage is also a must-have. While the tree isn’t overly picky about the soil pH, it grows best if the soil is slightly acidic. Water Jackfruit, as a tropical plant, likes consistently moist soil all year round. So, when the ground starts to dry out because of extreme heat or lack of rainfall, you must water it frequently. Ensure that the roots are not sitting in a water pool because it inhibits fruit production and eventually kills the tree. Temperature and Humidity The jackfruit tree loves a warm climate and is very tolerant of heat. However, it’s susceptible to frost and temperatures below 35 degrees F, especially younger trees. Low temperatures can weaken or kill the tree quickly. Additionally, jackfruit prefers humid conditions and doesn’t grow in dry climates unless the soil is well-watered. This means you’ll likely be in USDA Hardiness Zone 10-12 if you plan to successfully grow these trees. Jackfruit is a popular tree in Florida, and other states with a wet climate. Fertilizer It’s best to apply fertilizers during the rainy season. In the case of irrigated farming, apply fertilizers twice a year. It’s also beneficial to use mixed compost, manure, or fertilizers in a circular trench 50 cm away from the main trunk annually. Pest and Diseases Since the commercial production of jackfruit in the United States is limited, there is still ongoing research on jackfruit pests and diseases. Some of the pests and conditions to look out for include the following: Soft Rot or Fruit Rot This disease happens when fungi attack the male inflorescences and young fruits of the jackfruit tree. As a result, only a tiny percentage of the fruits reach full maturity. Thankfully, the matured fruits and inflorescences are generally not attacked. The soft rot disease causes a large number of fruits to fall off early. During the early stage, the fungus may appear as greyish growth. Then, it becomes denser and turns into a black growth. The fungus continues to spread until the entire fruit or inflorescence falls off. This disease is usually common in humid, warm, and rainy conditions. Dieback You know a jackfruit tree has a dieback disease when you see a few discolorations or darkening of the tree bark. When the disease advances, the green twigs start to wither at the base and extend outwards along the leaf edges. The leaves then turn brown, and the margins start to roll upwards. During this stage, the twigs die, wither and fall. There might also be gum exudation from the affected branches primarily caused by shoot borers. These infected twigs can cause the spread of dieback disease. It is common in rainy areas where the relative humidity is above 80%, and the temperature ranges between 77 degrees Fahrenheit and 88 degrees Fahrenheit. Leaf Spot Another disease affecting the jackfruit tree is the leaf spot which produces dark red spots on the surface of the leaves. It turns into dark greyish color upon maturity and infecting young expanding leaves. This disease is common in areas with a relative humidity of 95% and temperatures of around 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Rust Rust usually develops during late summer, and when it affects the tree, it causes defoliation in just a few weeks. If not treated and continues to occur regularly, the tree’s growth reduces, affecting its yield. Initial symptoms of fig rust include small and yellowish spots on the top surface of the leaves. When these lesions grow more prominent, the color turns reddish-brown, but the leaves remain smooth. Heavily infected leaves mostly turn brown or yellow, especially along the edges, and they prematurely drop. Rust primarily survives through thick-walled and resting spores called teliospores on the leaves, and it spreads through wind-born uredospores coming from an infected tree. Pink Disease Another widespread disease attacking the jackfruit tree is Pink Disease. This condition is prevalent in tropical and subtropical areas. It shows as a pink powdery coating on the parts of the stem. This pink-colored coating is the profuse conidial fungus production. Typically, it attacks the young woody branches, and the tree eventually loses its leaves, showing dieback symptoms. You can generally find the encrustation on the lower shaded part. Jackfruit Insect Pests The jackfruit tree is not only attacked by certain diseases but also by insect pests. Below are some of the insect pests commonly found in jackfruit trees. Shoot and fruit borer – The shoot and fruit borer is one of the most common insect pests attacking jackfruit trees. The female borers lay eggs, and they develop very quickly, especially during the fruiting and flowering period of the tree. Spittlebugs – Pine spittlebugs lie dormant as eggs insert into dead branches. These eggs hatch, and the young nymphs slowly migrate to the other parts of the tree. The larvae feed on the branches of the tree. Mealybug – The female mealybugs lay their eggs in a fluted ovisac attached directly to their body on the host tree. These bugs have white-colored powder coating their body, and they colonize on barks of the main trunk, panicles, and young shoots. They produce a sticky substance, honeydew, which is responsible for sooty mold development. Bud weevil – The smooth, pearly white, oval eggs of a bud weevil measure 0.42 mm in length and 0.28 mm in width. This small whitish insect pest bore into fruits and tender flower buds, causing them to drop prematurely. The brownish-grey adult bud weevil can be customarily found nibbling the leaves of the jackfruit tree. Bark-eating caterpillars – These bark-eating caterpillars have dirty dark-browned heads and bodies and grow up to 60 mm long. When the eggs hatch, the larvae nibble the tree’s bark, disturbing the continuous flow of sap. As a result, the tree has less fruiting and poor overall growth. Aphid – Another common pest attacking the jackfruit trees is the aphid. Adult aphids lay their white eggs along the veins of the leaves. The nymphs and adult aphids both suck the sap coming from the leaves, pods, and buds. Infected leaves curl up, and at the advanced stage, the tree can start to wither and eventually die. The plant remains stunted, and the insects continue to excrete honey due to where sooty molds grow. Leaf Webber – The minute eggs of a leaf Webber only measure about 0.8 mm in length and 0.6 mm in width. They have varying shapes from sphere to flat, and color from white to yellow, which only changes after one day. The adult webbers lay their eggs on the flower, buds, and other parts of the plant that are actively growing. You can usually find the eggs in small clusters, with two to seven eggs per cluster. The Webbers grow very quickly – they hatch eggs in about four days, and each production has around four hundred eggs per female Webber. They cause interruption of the transport of water and nutrients on the plants, which causes drying of the terminal shoot during the early stage of development. Stem borer – The female stem borers slit the tree’s bark, and they lay up to two hundred eggs directly into these cuts. The brownish white cylindrical eggs have narrow and rounded ends. When these eggs hatch, the larvae tunnel into the branches and sapwood of the trunk. Sap oozes out from several points, causing the wilting of the stems and, eventually, the death of the tree. Castor capsule borer – The female capsule borer lays eggs on the tender portions of the tree. The caterpillars bore into planting material capsules, causing severe damage to the tree. Now that you know of the most common Jackfruit pests, you can be on the lookout and prevent these common problems. Integrated Pest Management for Jackfruit To properly care for the jackfruit, integrated pest management must cover all of the tree development stages. Here are some of the best practices of pest management for the jackfruit tree: Pre-Planting Here are the best practices for the pre-planting stage: Conduct deep orchard plowing right after harvesting to expose the pupae and eggs of the mealy bugs. There is a need for heavy irrigation to help destroy the eggs of the mealy bugs. Once the webs of bark-eating caterpillars no longer exist, adopt the following measures: Plug all the borer holes, except for the fresh ones, with mud plastering. Next, dig pits with the dimensions of 1 x 1 x 1 m3 and fill up these pits with a mixture of topsoil, neem cake, and farmyard manure per pit. You may feel like skipping these steps, but remember, pre-planting care is vital for the survival of your Jackfruit. Planting Here are the best practices for the planting stage: Check frequently to see if there are new emerging sprouts from the rootstock and remove them. Constantly shift the grafts from one point to another to avoid the striking of roots into the ground. Do the transplanting of the saplings into pits that are already full of farmyard manure. Additionally, make sure to remove weeds from the area before transplanting.

If you dream of growing a pomegranate but live in a cold climate, you can still grow these juicy fruits at home. All you have to do is plant them in a container! Join farmer Briana Yablonski to learn how to successfully grow pomegranates in pots. Have you ever thought of growing a pomegranate at home? While these unique, aril-filled fruits may seem impossible to produce at home, they’re actually quite easy to grow. However, gardeners in cold climates often remove pomegranates from their plant wish list when they realize they can’t survive cold temperatures. However, before you assume below-zero temperatures mean you can’t grow these plants at home, note that you can grow them in containers! Planting the trees in pots allows you to move them indoors during the winter to protect them from cold. Plus, containers make moving your pomegranate from one home to the next easy. Much of the care for potted plants is similar to in-ground pomegranates. However, you also need to be aware of factors like the ideal container size and potting soil, as well as differences in water requirements. Following these steps will help you grow a healthy pomegranate tree in a container. Select a Large Container Although pomegranate trees can happily grow in pots, they won’t grow well in small containers. The plants may survive for a year or two, but they’ll experience stunted growth and a lack of flowers. Therefore, it’s important to select a pot that gives the roots room to expand and flourish. While you may be tempted to choose a smaller container and repot your plant as it grows, it’s better to start with a big container. Repotting is an inherently stressful process, so it’s best to avoid it if you can. Plus, why purchase three different sizes of pots when you can get away with buying just one? Look for a container that’s at least 10 gallons. The container material isn’t too important, and plastic, terra cotta, and glazed ceramic can all work well. However, before you select a container, make sure the bottom contains drainage holes. If you live in hardiness zone 7 and below, you should plan on moving your pomegranate to a protected area during the winter. However, this is often easier than it sounds! When you start with a 50-pound ceramic container and fill it with potting mix, your potted pomegranate can easily weigh over a hundred pounds! Choosing a lighter container or placing the pot on wheels can make moving your plant more manageable. Fill With a Well-Draining Potting Mix After you’ve found a suitable container, it’s time to fill it with soil. You shouldn’t use native soil since this can lead to issues with drainage. However, you should also stay away from seed-starting mixes and those designed for vegetative houseplants. Instead, look for a specially formulated potting mix designed for trees and shrubs. These mixes are similar to those that work well for raised beds. Good mixes often contain nutrient-rich compost, peat moss or coco coir, and drainage materials like perlite, sand, or pine bark fines. Once you have a suitable mix, I recommend pouring it out into a large container and thoroughly mixing it with a shovel or your hands. Store-bought mixes often contain large clumps of peat moss or compost, and a good stir ensures a homogeneous mixture. Slowly add water as you mix until it is slightly moist but not damp. Add Your Plant to the Container Fill your container about two-thirds of the way with the potting mix. Remove your pomegranate tree from its current container and gently shake off any loose soil from the plant’s roots. You should also inspect the roots and remove any rotten or discolored portions. Place the plant in the new container so the top of the plant’s root ball is even with the soil line. Avoid burying it too deep since this can lead to problems with rot and growth. Once the plant is in the right place, add more fresh potting soil to fill in the remaining empty spaces. Gently compact the soil with your hands to remove any air pockets. Finally, slowly add water until it is moist. If the soil lowers after you add water, add more to ensure there’s an even layer in the container. Place in a Suitable Location After your pomegranate tree is tucked into its container, it’s time to place it in a location where it receives the proper amount of light. These plants require at least six hours of daily light, but they prefer much more. If they don’t receive enough light, they may become weak and stunted and/or fail to produce flowers and fruit. If your plant is outdoors, choose an open area with full sun. Alternatively, you can place the container on the south-facing side of a building, hedge, or fence. Indoor plants should also receive at least six hours of light, so choose a bright area. Typically, the area next to a south-facing window works well. However, you can also place the potted plant in a sunroom or other room with lots of windows. If you don’t have a bright enough area, use a grow light to provide supplemental lighting. Water Regularly You may have heard that pomegranates trees are drought-tolerant, and while this is true, they can’t survive long periods in a container without water. The best way to keep these plants happy is to allow the soil to dry out slightly, but not all the way, between waterings. When irrigating, it’s important to remember the difference in water needs between potted and in-ground plants. Since the sides of the container are exposed to the air, the soil heats up quicker, and water evaporates faster. Therefore, you’ll need to water your potted plants more often than those growing in the ground. The frequency you need to water your plants depends on factors including sun exposure, temperature, soil type, and container material. However, a good starting point is to water your potted pomegranate one to two times per week. Checking the soil with your fingers is a good way to determine whether or not you should water your plant more often. When the top three to four inches of soil is dry, you should water again. When you irrigate, water slowly to thoroughly soak all of the soil. You can water by hand with a hose or watering can, or you can set up drippers on a timer. Try to keep the foliage dry to prevent fungal diseases. Fertilize Regularly But Sparingly Pomegranate trees aren’t heavy feeders, so you don’t have to supply them with a large dose of fertilizer to keep them happy in a container. However, if you skip fertilizing entirely, the plants will begin to show signs of nutrient deficiencies. This is especially true with potted plants. If you use a nutrient-rich potting mix, you shouldn’t have to fertilize your plant in the first year. However, plan to start adding a balanced fertilizer in year two. An appropriate fertilizer will have an equal amount of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, so look for a product with an NPK ratio like 8-8-8 or 10-10-10. Add the fertilizer to your plant once per year in the late spring or early summer. Most organic fertilizers slowly release their nutrients over time, so a single annual application is enough to keep your plant happy. Avoid applying too much fertilizer since excess nutrients can be just as big of an issue as too few nutrients. Keep An Eye on the Temperature Pomegranate plants are more cold-hardy than many people think, but they still can’t tolerate extreme cold. Most pomegranate varieties grow best in zones 8-11 and will become damaged if exposed to temperatures below 10°F (-12°C). Therefore, you should aim to move your plant to a protected area once the temperature begins to drop below freezing. Fortunately, most pomegranates don’t require many chilling hours to produce fruit. That means you can bring the plants indoors during the fall without worrying about a lack of cold interfering with their fruit production. If you bring your plants indoors, you can place them in either a cool area like a covered porch or garage or a warm area like your living room. However, unless you’re dealing with a snap freeze, you should avoid moving them from a cold area immediately to a warm area. Instead, let them slowly acclimate to their new home by gradually increasing the time they spend in a warm place. When the danger of frost has disappeared in the spring, you can move the plants back outdoors. Aim to move them outdoors for a few hours one day, then a few more hours the next day. This slow introduction will help the plants adapt to the cooler air and brighter light.