If you’re ready to slice into heirloom goodness this summer, look to the ‘Brandywine’ tomato for a huge slicing tomato with a long garden history. The unbeatable flavor keeps ‘Brandywine’ at the top of heirloom tomato varieties. Join gardening expert Katherine Rowe in exploring how to grow ‘Brandywine’ tomatoes in your garden. Brandywine tomatoes are the quintessential summer-slicing heirloom tomato. These are the big beauties we envision when it comes to classic, old-fashioned tomato varieties beloved in the garden and the kitchen, from tomato sandwiches to Caprese salads and topping burgers right off the grill. These are the best-known heirloom vegetable for good reason. The hefty fruits are large and meaty in red, pink, yellow, and orange shades. They feature exceptional, flavor-rich, sweet, and slightly spicy fruits – characteristic of the variety and a gold standard for other tomatoes. Here, we’ll explore how (and why) to grow heirloom ‘Brandywine’ in our own gardens. By summer’s end, we can slice into some of the most flavorful tomatoes grown today. What are Brandywine Tomatoes? A garden favorite for over 100 years, this heirloom tomato variety is prized for its large, flavorful fruits. ‘Brandywine’ generates lore and a bit of mystery surrounding its history, from Amish origins to multiple strains by the same name. That’s the fun of heirlooms – tracing tales and generational gardening knowledge. Heirloom vegetables represent our heritage crops, cultural foodways, and selections preserved for exceptional flavor and growing qualities. The term “heirloom” varies when it comes to vegetables. Heirloom can mean plants grown before 1951, when the first hybrids became commercially available, or antique varieties passed down from generation to generation for preservation. Heirloom vegetables are open-pollinated (not hybrids) and come true from seed. Seeds are saved from season to season for the next planting. The seed company Johnson and Stokes introduced the original ‘Brandywine’ tomato (also known as ‘Red Brandywine’) in their 1889 catalog after receiving seeds from a customer in Ohio. The old-fashioned tomato gets its name from Brandywine Creek in Chester County, Pennsylvania. In 1982, this variety surged in popularity among heirloom varieties when Seed Savers Exchange obtained seeds from an Ohio family. Since its introduction, several strains have become available for the contemporary garden. ‘Pink Brandywine’ is a historic grower originally from the garden of Dorris Sudduth Hill, whose family grew it for over 100 years. There’s something special about growing longstanding varieties passed along from generation to generation for their flavor, growth, and performance qualities. While these tender beefsteak-types may not be in the grocery store, they are farmer’s market favorites. Growing them in our own gardens invites a little food way history and culture into every juicy bite and preserves the integrity of the heirloom’s traits. Characteristics ‘Brandywine’ produces 10 to 30 ounce fruits on productive plants. The fruits are dense and “meaty.” Some yield fruits up to two pounds—that’s a lot of tomato! As an indeterminate plant, The vines reach six feet long or more. Indeterminate tomato plants grow and produce fruit all season until frost. ‘Brandywine’ produces fruit late in the season, about 76 to 100 days after plants go into the ground. This is nearly 30 days later than many other tomato varieties. It takes time to grow such large, luscious fruits. Grow it with different tomato varieties like cherry and roma for fruits throughout the season. ‘Brandywine’ plants have an upright growth habit that benefits from staking, caging, or trellising. Their stems and leaves are hairy, and their scent is easily recognizable as that of a tomato plant. The deeply lobed, coarse leaves resemble those of a potato plant. Clusters of yellow flowers lead to fruits after pollination, and ‘Brandywine’ produces one to two fruits per cluster. Tomatoes are in the Solanaceae, or nightshade, family, which includes eggplant, tomatillos, potatoes, and peppers. Native Area All tomatoes originate from wild ancestors in Central and South America, and their growing range follows the coastlines below the Andes Mountains. Indigenous cultures utilized and grew them for thousands of years, spreading the crop from Ecuador to Chile. Spanish colonists returned with tomatoes to Europe. In the 16th century, they became incorporated into European cuisine but were feared as toxic as nightshades. It was in the 18th century that tomatoes became more widely cultivated and used for culinary purposes. They are tender perennials in regions where they are hardy (USDA zones 10 and 11) and grow as warm-season annuals everywhere else. Planting You can grow ‘Brandywine’ easily from seed or purchase them in cell packs and nursery pots ready for planting right in the ground. They are frost-sensitive plants, requiring warm air and soil temperature for best growth. Whether seedlings or sturdy nursery-grown plants, they are ready to move outdoors after the last expected frost has passed and as nighttime temperatures are above 55°F (13°C), with plants taking off in the heat of summer. In-ground tomatoes benefit from annual crop rotations. Avoiding planting where other nightshades grew in the same year helps stave off transmittable diseases. So, don’t plant your new plants in a plot where you’ve grown tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, or eggplants in the last year. Space plants three to four feet apart. If planting in rows, space rows three to four feet apart to give the vining stems plenty of growing room and circulation. Plant them deep—burying stems up to the first leaf node (or even pinching those leaves and burying the node) encourages more roots to grow. Plants with robust root systems are more stable and have greater nutrient uptake. Indeterminate tomatoes need support structures for best growth. These include stakes, cages, or trellises. Long-vining plants like ‘Brandywine’ can grow on a fence, around a pole, or on an arch if given support and air circulation and tied off as stems grow throughout the season. ‘Brandywine’ also grows in containers as long the pot is large enough to accommodate mature plants with plenty of soil volume for a robust root system. A 20-gallon pot gives large, indeterminate varieties ample room to grow. If starting from seed, direct sow seeds in their growing container one to two weeks after the last frost. Thin seedlings as they sprout. How to Grow As an annual crop, tomatoes grow in a single cycle. They benefit from specific cultural conditions for the best growth and vigor. Large varieties like ‘Brandywine’ are susceptible to uneven ripening, cracking, catface deformations, and sometimes low yields. Meeting their cultural requirements gives plants a head start for healthy, carefree growth. Maintenance The tall, rambling stems get leggy as the end of summer approaches. After the season of growing and producing, it’s understandable that the long stems get a bit rangy; it’s part of the nature of large, indeterminate varieties. Pruning isn’t necessary with caged ‘Brandywine’ plants, nor is it essential for staked or trellised plants, though pinching off suckering offshoots to direct nutrients and growth benefits non-caged growers. When plants are 18-24 inches tall, pinching off the lower six to ten inches of growth at the base of the tomato increases air circulation to plants. This pinching isn’t essential to growth, but some gardeners find it helpful. Lastly, mulching at planting and as needed during the growing season helps with moisture retention, weed suppression, and soil temperature regulation. A clean, weed-free straw or cover of leaf litter or aged woodchips does the job.

‘Serrano’ peppers are spicy and versatile in the kitchen. They make perfect salsas, marinades, and seasoning bases. Grow ‘Serrano’ pepper plants easily with this in-depth guide from gardener Jerad Bryant. Peppers are an excellent backyard crop to grow—each compact plant produces prolific amounts of fruit. With two or four, you’ll grow baskets full of produce. This variety sprouts spicy little green or red fruits. Each one can range from 10,000 to 23,000 Scoville units, meaning ‘Serrano’ peppers are two to four times as spicy as the hottest jalapeños! This variety is a staple in the backyard and the kitchen, especially for spice lovers and pepper enthusiasts. ‘Serrano’ makes salsas, stews, and casseroles punchy. When smoked, they add a deliciously complex flavor to meats, vegetables, and beans. Plant ‘Serrano’ today and enjoy its crunchiness, tanginess, and sometimes overwhelming spiciness! Whether you’re new to hot peppers or are a lifelong chile grower, this variety makes a superb addition to the garden. What Is It? ‘Serrano’ is a type of chile similar to jalapeños. The fruits are slightly shorter and spicier. Their short bodies are meaty with thin skin and grow on an average-sized plant two to three feet tall. They grow to a width of two feet and require some space in the garden when fully mature. Alongside tomatoes, onions, and cilantro, ‘Serrano’ peppers are an easy crop necessary for a complete salsa garden. Salsa gardens are unique food-growing spaces with all the plants you need to create fresh salsa. Salsa gardens are versatile—utilize each crop in foods like mirepoix, marinades, and pickled goods. With a ‘Serrano,’ ‘Anaheim,’ and bell pepper plants, you’ll grow all the varieties you need for any recipe. I recommend this combination or one similar that has a hot chile, a mild or sweet one, and a big, fleshy one for cooking and sautéing. Native Area ‘Serrano’ pepper varieties originate from two states in Mexico, Puebla, and Hidalgo. The Spanish name comes from this area, as it is incredibly mountainous. Sierra is similar to serrano and translates to “mountain.” ‘Serrano’ now grows worldwide during spring and summer. They appreciate direct sun, warm temperatures, and good airflow. They survive perennially in regions without winter frost and as annuals in all other areas. Like most other peppers, they do not tolerate freezing conditions. Characteristics ‘Serrano’ pushes out thin, herbaceous stems. Their trunks become woody over time, while the rest of the plant remains green. Off the stems sprout bright green leaves and white flowers. When pollinated, the white flowers morph into two to three-inch green peppers. Throughout the summer season, green chiles ripen to a deep red color. Peppers gain considerable heat, sweetness, and flavor as they age. Try them at all stages of ripeness to discover your favorite. Different states of ripeness coincide with various recipes, so having all stages of ‘Serrano’ fruits allows you to cook a wide range of dishes. This type’s scientific name is Capsicum annuum ‘Serrano.’ It is a member of one of five main species of domesticated peppers. Many other species originate in South America and Asia, and some have roots in parts of Mexico and North America. They all appreciate warmth, sunlight, regular water, and good drainage. Propagation Propagating chiles is easy enough with the proper tools. Chiles also need some time indoors in most areas of North America with winter cold. This gives them a jump start on the season so they produce lots of fruit and flowers under the summer sun. Once peppers grow from seeds, you can propagate them further with cuttings. Read on and learn about both methods. Seeds For best results, sow seeds eight to ten weeks before your last average frost date. Fill five-inch pots with potting soil. Then, take your seeds and place two of them a quarter inch deep in each pot. Water well, and use a seed germination heat mat to help the seedlings sprout. Pepper seeds need light and heat to germinate. Place the pots under a well-lit windowsill or grow lights. If using grow lights, keep them on for at least 16 hours. Under a windowsill, they naturally increase in size as the days lengthen from winter to spring. However, you need a good light source. Many windowsills do not have enough light to support early pepper growth. Ensure the soil stays moist but not soggy, and the seeds will germinate in 10-25 days. Keep them under lights and ensure they receive enough water as they mature. As they grow they may get root-bound in their pots. Root-bound peppers frequently dry out and exhibit slow growth. Transplant overgrown ‘Serrano’ plants into quart or gallon pots with fresh soil. Cuttings Once your chile plants have multiple stems with prominent growth, you can take cuttings and increase your pepper supply. Take six-inch cuttings in early spring or summer. Strip off their lower leaves and leave the top ones to continue growing. Stripping the leaves helps the cuttings sprout roots beneath the soil. With snips or scissors, cut the top leaves’ edges so they stop growing. This further encourages the plants to grow roots, as they’re now forced to put all their energy into root production. Take your snipped cuttings and bury them two inches deep in pots with potting soil. Water well, and place the cuttings inside under a windowsill with bright light or outside under dappled shade. Add a humidity dome for increased rooting success. Monitor your baby plants and ensure their soil stays moist but not soggy. After a week and up to a month later your cuttings should sprout roots. Successfully rooted plants sprout new growth from their stems, while unsuccessful ones drop their leaves and show signs of rot. Throw the rotting ones into the compost, and transplant the rooted ones into the garden or a container. Planting Peppers thrive in raised beds, containers, and the ground. With one in a container or five in a raised bed, this variety impresses growers with its sheer productivity. Give ‘Serrano’ moderately draining soil with lots of compost or other organic material, and they’ll create loads of fruit. Plants may experience slow growth and have little flowers when their soil is extremely sandy or thick with clay. With the proper soil, peppers thrive with little input and maintenance. How to Grow Throughout the season, ‘Serrano’ chiles thrive with little maintenance. They appreciate a few things throughout their lifetime. With some extra care and love, these plants produce copious amounts of peppers. The challenge, then, is finding enough recipes to use them all! Maintenance ‘Serrano’ specimens appreciate maintenance through cutting off any dead or diseased foliage and stems. Monitor for pests and diseases, and apply compost to the soil if the top layer thins. Harvest peppers as they form so the plants continue producing fruits and flowers until the first frost. Although not necessary, ‘Serrano’ benefits from staking or caging. Add a bamboo stake, trellis, or tomato cage, and the plants will cling to it as they grow. This makes for easy harvesting once the fruits hang down and ripen. As the last frost date approaches your region, hard prune the stems to help ripen the fruits faster. A hard prune takes the pepper’s energy from growing new leaves, stems, and shoots and redirects it toward fruit and seed formation. To hard prune, cut off all branches above ripening fruits and snip the flowers. Remove a third of the plant’s leaves to let sunlight penetrate the interiors.

If you love sunflowers, but lament their short lifespan, you'll love 'Tuscan Sun' Heliopsis. This sweet and sunny perennial brings happiness and cheer to the summer garden. Gardening expert Melissa Strauss goes over the planting and care of your perennial sunflowers. Sunflowers decorate the summer garden in grand fashion. From the compact and small to the towering and tall, their warm and sunny faces provide food for pollinators, and the leftover seed heads will feed the birds in winter. Could it be that the marvel of sunflowers lies in the brevity of their blooms? Do we love them so much because we know they won’t last? I would wager to say no, because perennial ‘Tuscan Sun’ Heliopsis sunflowers are every bit as lovely and happy, and they stick around! What Is ‘Tuscan Sun’ Heliopsis? Heliopsis ‘Tuscan Sun’ is a compact perennial sunflower, often nicknamed oxeye sunflower or daisy. It’s a happy little plant that forms lush mounds of foliage and flowers that last through the summer and fall months. They are easy-going and eye-catching, and a must for any sunflower lover. Characteristics Heliopsis is a relative of the true sunflower, Helianthus. The flowers are similar in appearance but smaller, like a daisy. ‘Tuscan Sun’ has golden yellow, two to three-inch blooms with an orange center and petals that reflex slightly when fully open. The flowers stand slightly above the shrubby foliage on slender stems and nearly obscure it when in full bloom. The foliage is dark green with serrated margins. It forms a small to medium-sized mound, making it perfect for filling beds and adding to planter arrangements. This short-lived perennial thrives in a wide range of conditions and is perennial in zones 3-9. It’s quite an impressive plant! Native Area One of the best parts of Heliopsis is that it’s native to much of North America, so if you’re a native gardener, this one is likely to work for you. It grows in prairies, fields, and open woodland areas, and you might see it along the roadside. You can find the ‘Tuscan Sun’ cultivar in nurseries and big box stores, and you can find seeds from select retailers. Planting Spring and fall are the best times to plant your ‘Tuscan Sun,’ heliopsis seeds. These are easy to grow and care for, and create a bold pop of color to any part of the garden that needs livening up. This is a fast grower that grows excellently from seeds, so there’s no reason to plant sparingly; you’ll have plenty to go around. If you plant in the spring, cold stratify them in the refrigerator for about a month before planting. You can start your seeds indoors about a month to six weeks ahead of your last frost date, and transplant after that date. If you direct sow these seeds, plant them 18″-24″ apart, to give your plants space to grow into. Barely cover them with soil, a bit of light will help them to germinate. They take about three to four weeks to germinate in soil that is 65°F (18°C), so be patient. You can also directly sow these seeds in the fall and forgo cold stratification. They will get the cold they need during the winter, and then pop up in spring as soon as the soil warms up.