we must sacrifice aesthetics for flavor, but ‘Green Zebra’ tomatoes elegantly achieve both. This extra vigorous breeder’s work of art combines the best flavor and color of an heirloom tomato with the vigor and resilience of a hybrid. While we often think of green tomatoes as under-ripe, this cultivar yields unique two to three-inch fruits that ripen with golden-chartreuse skins and forest green stripes.

‘Green Zebra’ was developed by an organic plant breeder who craved well-balanced, sweet, low-acidity fruits with superior crack resistance and an extraordinary zebra-striped aesthetic. This variety also boasts superior heat and drought tolerance.

Let’s dig into everything you need to know about planting, growing, and caring for ‘Green Zebra’ tomatoes.
History and Cultivation

The idea for a ripe green tomato germinated in Tom Wagner’s mind in the 1950s. While green tomatoes are typically labeled unripe and left for frying or composting, he was determined to develop a cultivar that tasted delicious while green. An organic plant breeder from Everett, Washington, Wagner desired to cross several heirloom parents together for low-acidity, sweet tomatoes that ripened with yellowish-chartreuse skins.

A product of traditional plant breeding, ‘Green Zebra’ is not a GMO (genetically modified organism). Instead, it is the result of cross-pollinating several different parent tomatoes and saving the seeds for several generations until the desired fruit is achieved.

The process is similar to dog breeding, where a breeder chooses the best traits of two parents and crosses them together. Just like huskies are bred for sledding, and shepherds are bred for herding, ‘Green Zebra’ tomatoes are bred for amazingly delicious striped fruits.

As you can imagine, this process took some time and taste-testing. The seeds were finally released in 1983 and are slowly becoming more popular amongst adventurous gardeners and chefs seeking more diversity in their tomato collections.

What Are ‘Green Zebra’ Tomatoes?
‘Green Zebra’ is an organic hybrid cultivar developed by Tom Wagner in 1983. The ultra-vigorous indeterminate plants produce vines six feet or taller and copious amounts of two-to-three-inch diameter fruits.

The flavorful tomatoes have zebra-striped skins that ripen to golden yellow, forest green, and a blush of amber. This crack-resistant variety is particularly suited to areas with summer rains. It is remarkably drought-tolerant and heat-tolerant, making it versatile in the south as well.

What Do They Taste Like?
The captivating striped appearance does not detract from the amazing flavor of this tomato. The well-balanced fruits are coveted for their perfect blend of sweetness, low acidity, and classic tomatoey flavor. They have the dense texture of an heirloom yet become slightly softer and juicier when fully ripe.

The fruits are highly desirable for fresh eating in tangy or sweet salads. They are larger than cherry tomatoes but smaller than slicers. Cut them in half and sprinkle them with salt, olive oil, and balsamic for a colorful side dish. They also taste excellent in salsas, roasts, or paired with cheese boards.

Propagation
Like all tomatoes, this variety demands abundant warmth and sunshine to thrive. Seeds are the only way to start new plants unless you happen upon these rare seedlings at a local nursery.

Seed
A head start is recommended for tomato plants because it ensures early summer yields and extra strong root growth. Start these tomato seeds indoors four to six weeks before your last frost date. The plants should not be transplanted until one to two weeks after the average last frost.

Seeds need plenty of warmth to germinate. The ideal soil temperature is 70-90°F (21-32°C). For the best results, use Epic 4-Cell trays or any tray of your choice and place them on top of a germination heat mat. Fill the trays with a well-drained seed starter mix, then tap them on a table to let the mix settle in place. Add a bit more soil to flatten the top of the trays.

Use your finger to create small indentations in the center of each cell. ‘Green Zebra’ seeds should be planted at a depth of approximately ¼ inch. Sow one to two seeds per cell and thin to the strongest seedling once they are two inches tall. Use a bottom tray to water from the bottom, or gently saturate from the surface with a low-pressure hose or watering can. Avoid displacing the seeds with heavy blasts of water.

Keep the soil consistently moist but never soggy. Place in a bright, sunny location like a south-facing windowsill or a greenhouse. In the right conditions, the seeds take approximately 5-10 days to germinate. If the seedlings appear spindly or “leggy,” they probably don’t have enough light. Add a grow light or move closer to the window.

Direct sowing is only recommended in the warmest climates where nighttime temperatures are reliably above 45°F (7°C) and the soil is at least 70°F (21°C). Use a soil thermometer probe to check your beds before sowing.

Planting
‘Green Zebra’ takes approximately 75 days from transplanting to begin fruiting. Once the first flowers appear, rest assured that you will have tomatoes all summer long! These indeterminate vines fruit continuously until the first fall frost. As long as they have somewhat consistent water and full sunshine, the plants are eager to yield in abundance.
How to Grow
These heat-and-drought-tolerant plants can easily grow in most zones. The secret to the sweetest, most flavorful tomatoes is to ensure strong, healthy plants through consistent moisture, moderate fertilizing, and regular pruning.


Maintenance
Tomatoes can practically grow themselves, but there is a key maintenance step that will make a huge difference in overall yields: Sucker removal! Suckers are the little side shoots that grow from tomato “elbow ditches.” These are the spots where leaves intersect with a main stem. You will also notice new shoots emerging at approximately a 45° angle from the main stem. These shoots are called suckers because they literally “suck” energy away from fruit production.

Sucker removal is like a message to your plant that says, Hey, please focus your energy on fruiting. You don’t need to grow any more vines or leaves. You can start removing suckers at any stage of growth, and you will find it much easier to control the trellising of the plant. Better yet, sucker removal improves overall airflow and gives your tomato patch a tidier appearance.

If left in place, every sucker can grow into an entirely new vine. Instead, high-efficiency gardeners aim to choose just one or two main vines where the plant can focus its fruit production. Removing any lateral vines helps keep the patch under control. Use sharp, sanitized shears or scissors to cut suckers before they grow too large, or you can snap them off if they are still small.