Looking for a native wildflower that’s well-traveled? Meet a fiery-orange eye-pleaser that withstands poor growing conditions and calls a large swath of North America home. Garden expert Benita Lee introduces you to the unforgettable Scarlet Globemallow. While its name might sound like an aristocratic Bridgerton character, Scarlet Globemallow is no hothouse flower. Rather than tossing pouty glares in a cutthroat marriage market, this species does just fine by itself, thank you, typically thriving as a first responder for depleted, dry soils. However, this sturdy plant is not invasive and tends to coexist pleasantly with fellow xeriscape plants. The North American native has striking orange petals arranged in a cuplike bloom. Its sprawling stems and fuzzy, greyish-green leaves make it a pleasant ground cover. Also known as red false mallow, copper mallow, and cowboy’s delight, it can help stabilize roadsides where low to moderate erosion is an issue. A member of the Mallow family, S. coccinea counts hollyhock and okra as nearby kin. Gardeners in arid climates who rely on scarce rainwater might appreciate this species’ thrifty, drought-resistant ways. In fact, it only fusses over too much water. If you’ve got a spot in your flower bed, this guide will show you how to plant, grow, and care for this free spirit. History & Uses Native Americans, including Blackfoot, Lakota, Dakota, Navajo, Comanche, Acoma, and Laguna tribes traditionally used Scarlet Globemallow as a medicine. It was utilized to heal wounds, ease swelling, increase appetite, stop bleeding, and soothe skin problems. This wildflower is an important forage for both wild and domesticated animals. Bison, deer, pronghorn antelope, elk, bighorn sheep, prairie dogs, and jackrabbits nibble on this perennial ground cover. Cattle and sheep eat it, too. Some small birds will go for the seeds. Horses, however, will say nay to its taste. Wild ground-dwelling bees and the Wild Checkered-Skipper butterfly love Scarlet Globemallow. It also counts restoration experts among its fans since the wildflower tends to show up after soils are disturbed by drought, grazing, and burning. Characteristics Scarlet Globemallow makes its home in dry climates where between 8 and 12 inches of annual precipitation are the norm. It can be found throughout most of the western half of the United States and into parts of Canada and Mexico. S. coccinea has distributed itself far and wide, from British Columbia across to Manitoba in the north and from Arizona to Texas and Chihuahua, Mexico in the south. Flowers may bloom late April through October in warmer regions like the Intermountain West and as briefly as the month of June in far northern climes like Saskatchewan. It appears in desert, semi-desert, prairies, grasslands, scrubland, open woodland, and along dry roadsides at elevations ranging between 980 to 9,020 feet. Globemallow’s favorite, wild companions include pinyon, juniper, Ponderosa pine, Gambel oak, sagebrush, blue grama, and blue bunch or western wheatgrass. Planting & Propagating The wildflower can be challenging to propagate, but once established, it will return every year. Planting Seeds Scarlet Globemallow is not easily found in nurseries as a potted plant, but several wildflower seed companies sell it by the packet for home gardeners. It is sold by the pound for ranchers and rewinding experts who are establishing large, native plant pastures. Globemallow needs to experience the cool temperatures of winter to wake up in the spring. For this reason, it’s best to sow its seeds directly into the soil in the fall. It doesn’t need much coddling in this category, either — a quarter of an inch under the soil is plenty deep. A single watering at this point is enough. Scarification (scratching or otherwise breaking down the outer seed coat) can assist in nudging seedlings out. A light scraping with sandpaper should do the trick. It’s important to use thick garden gloves, as tiny hairs on the seeds can be an eye irritant. These seeds can have a low germination rate, so sprinkle generously along your rows. Space rows 28-36 inches apart. Thin crowded seedlings within rows to 18 inches between plants. Propagating From Rhizomes Another way to grow Scarlet Globemallow is to take cuttings from the plant’s root-like rhizome. A rhizome is not truly a root but a fleshy, underground stem. (Ginger “root” is an example of a rhizome.) Rhizome cuttings taken in springtime can be buried just under the soil and allowed to develop new plants. If you can’t get rhizome cuttings, seeds are the way to go. How to Grow Scarlet Globemallow is very much a live-and-let-live kind of organism. Plant it, water it once, and let it do the rest. If you’re an anxious plant parent, you can give it some extra sips of water occasionally, but only if the soil has been dry for a while. No need to overdo it! Light Full sun is this wildflower’s friend. In hotter, desert climates like New Mexico and Arizona, it tolerates partial sun exposure near junipers and under velvety mesquite, but these are exceptions. For the best results, place your seeds where they can worship the sun. That means at least 6 hours of unfiltered sunlight per day. If you live in the Northern Hemisphere, planting in a southerly direction is ideal. Water If watering seeds only once seems to good to be true, remember: this is a desert plant and a wild native. Water it regularly as you’re establishing it in the landscape. If your area gets less than 16 inches of precipitation per year, then you can water it one more time, specifically after its flowers have been pollinated and the seeds are beginning to develop. Soil Scarlet Globemallow isn’t too picky about soils, either. It tolerates everything from sandy to clay loams to alkaline and moderately saline conditions. With its long, slender taproot (over 3 feet according to some measurements), it can steady its feet in gravelly soils, too. But if it had to choose? Fast-draining, sandy loam over clay, and a neutral to slightly acidic tang are its favorite conditions. Temperature & Humidity This wildflower does best in USDA plant hardiness zones 6-8, which means the lowest temperature range it can handle is between -10 to 20°F (-23 to -9°C). Muggy, coastal climes do not appeal. Therefore, the hellstrip lining the driveway is preferable to the damp area alongside your water feature. Fertilizing This is where Globemallow just gets better. It doesn’t like too much nitrogen, so fertilizer is not necessary. A top dressing of compost annually is plenty. Maintenance Overall, easy-peasy, but…aside from ruminants like deer and some rodents like prairie dogs who like to munch on the wildflower’s leaves, there are some tinier creatures that are particularly smitten with Scarlet Globemallow. Weevils are perhaps the worst, as they interfere with seed production. (More on these in Pests and Diseases below.) Harvesting Being a carefree wildflower, this species doesn’t perform well in a vase. Enjoy it outdoors, where its blooms will attract bees and other pollinators to your garden. Pests & Diseases Easygoing as it is, Scarlet Globemallow’s attractiveness can be a problem where certain pests are concerned. Egg-laying weevils are perhaps the most troublesome, as their entire lifecycles, from larvae to adult, can decimate blooms and developing seed pods. Grasshoppers also find it tasty. However, pesticides are not recommended, as they can endanger beneficial pollinators. Powdery mildew and rust can ruin the party as well. Excessive moisture and shade are typically the culprits here, so careful placement in dry, sunny spots is the key to avoiding these fungal issues.

With bright green leaves and a refreshing flavor, parsley is a must-grow herb. If you want to keep plants productive and healthy, know how to harvest parsley and avoid overharvesting, which can cause plant stress and impaired growth. Whether you grow parsley from seeds or nursery starts, this guide will help you time your parsley harvest to perfection. Learn how to harvest parsley the right way to keep your plants healthy and your kitchen brimming with fresh herbs. When to Harvest Parsley Parsley is typically harvested from spring through fall either as a cut-and-come-again herb or in larger quantities for freezing or drying. However, if plants are grown indoors in pots, parsley can be harvested in winter, too. Fast-growing and adaptable, parsley can be kept in container gardens or larger herb beds and harvested just 70 days after sowing parsley seeds—nursery-started plants can be picked even earlier. Note that harvesting parsley too early can be detrimental to plant health, so it’s best to wait until plants are at least 6” tall and have well-formed leaves with at least 3 leaf segments before harvesting. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How to Harvest Parsley the Right Way Harvest parsley in the morning. Parsley can technically be harvested at any time of the day, but if you want to get the best flavor out of your plants, pick parsley in the morning before the sun is high overhead. Parsley leaves contain the highest concentration of flavorful oils at this time of the day. Cut or pinch entire stems. Gather the parsley stems you’d like to harvest with one hand and cut or pinch the entire stems off just above the soil line with your fingers or a sharp pair of kitchen shears. Harvesting the entire stem will rejuvenate plants and encourage new growth. Work around the exterior of the plant. Parsley plants produce new leaves towards the center of the plant, so harvest the leaves around the exterior of the plant first. This will refresh the look of your parsley and prevent older leaves from going to waste. Don’t overharvest. Young parsley plants should be harvested sparingly by clipping off just a few stems at a time. Older plants, on the other hand, can be picked a bit more aggressively, but avoid harvesting more than 1/3 of your plant at once. Repeat. Parsley is a fast-growing herb that can be harvested again and again throughout the season as needed for recipes. Established plants can be harvested daily in small quantities, but it’s best to give plants a week or two to recover in between harvests if you gather a lot of parsley stems at once or harvest from young plants. Remember, frequent harvesting encourages parsley plants to produce even more leaves. How to Keep Parsley Growing for Years Parsley is a biennial herb that only grows for two years even with the best of care. As a result, many gardeners grow parsley as an annual and sow new parsley seeds every spring. But, parsley plants can be overwintered and harvested in the spring of their second year if desired. If you’d like to harvest second-year parsley plants, overwinter your parsley indoors or harvest your plants in early fall before the stems die back in cold weather. Outdoor parsley will lie dormant in gardens through winter and begin to grow new leaves in spring, while indoor plants can continue to grow through the winter months. Once parsley starts to produce new leaves in spring, harvest the stems regularly until the plant starts to bolt or flower. When flowering begins, it’s best to harvest the entire plant as bolting changes the flavor of parsley leaves. But if you want to gather parsley seeds for future planting, let your plants flower and gather the dried seeds when the parsley flowers fade.

Thinking of adding some Turnips to your garden this season, but aren't sure where to start? Turnips can be a great addition to any harvest, and make great companion plants for certain vegetables. In this article, organic gardening expert Logan Hailey walks through every step you'll need to follow in order to plant, grow, and care for turnips. Traditionally, turnips haven’t been the most elegant or romanticized of garden vegetables. But in foodie and gardener circles, turnips are finally enjoying a stylish comeback. New cultivars with delicious flavors and textures, coupled with an impressive nutritional profile, are redeeming qualities for this humble root. Grown and eaten for at least the last 4,000 years, turnips are a root vegetable closely related to radishes and cabbage. They have been grown for both livestock feed and human consumption. For some, turnips seem to insight memories of their grandmother’s mashed or boiled turnip dishes. For others, modern turnips are a culinary delicacy so crisp, sweet, and tender that they can be enjoyed as a snack straight from the garden. These brassica-family roots are easy to grow and tolerant of spring or fall frosts. While most people are only familiar with the strong-flavored, purple-topped winter turnip, there are in fact dozens of varieties of turnips that give even the tastiest radish or sweetest apple a run for their money. From buttery white ‘Tokyo’ turnips to mild fuchsia salad turnips, there is a vast array of untapped potential for garden-fresh meals. If you’ve been wanting to try a new spring or fall crop in your garden, turnips are the perfect root for beginners. They are easy to grow, quick to mature, and far more delicious than their reputation may have led you to believe. Let’s dig into how to grow the tastiest turnips you’ve ever tried! History and Cultivation Humans have been cultivating turnips since ancient Roman times. In fact, they are one of the oldest known vegetables. But the humble root was not very highly regarded by upper class Europeans for many centuries. Historically, only the rural country peasants ate turnips, or they were fed to cows and pigs during the winter months. Ironically, the qualities that made turnips important to these populations of country folk are in fact what make this vegetable such an excellent addition to the garden. Turnips could withstand cold, damp winters and hold for a long time in storage. They were easy to grow and yielded prolifically without much fertility or tending. The roots and greens are also nutrient-dense and widely adapted to a diversity of uses in the kitchen. While turnips were reserved for the rural poor in Europe, they became highly regarded in Asia as a delicate, nearly fruit-flavored snack. Today, specialty varieties of salad turnips (specifically the Asian types) are all the rage amongst locavore chefs and “foodie” circles throughout America. What Are Turnips? Turnips (Brassica rapa) are a hardy cool-weather, biennial root crop in the Brassicaceae family. They are closely related to mustards, radishes, broccoli, cabbage, and kale. Turnips are mostly grown in spring or fall. They can be as sweet as carrots or as starchy as potatoes. The greens are also edible and loaded with nutrition. Best of all, turnips thrive in gardens in almost any region. Turnip plants send most of their energy down to their roots to yield the healthy, fibrous, carbohydrate-rich bulbs loved by ancient farmers. But the bulbous rounded base of the turnip is botanically considered a swollen hypocotyl (not technically root tissue). This is basically an edible storage organ of the plant that is a medley of root, stem, and tuber. All scientific jargon aside, turnips look a lot like their radish cousins. They average 2-4” in diameter with mustard-like greens that can grow up to 18” tall. Turnips have a more mild, unique flavor than radishes and take longer to mature. However, both radishes and turnips are cultivated in a similar way. As I’ll explain below, there are many shapes, textures, and colors of turnips, each with their own unique flavor profiles.They can be globe-shaped, elongated, or flat and long. They can be tender and crisp for raw eating or firm and crunchy for winter roasts. The skins can be purple, red, green, white, or mottled. And turnips range in flavor from mild to pungent to slightly bitter to spicy and even sweet. Needless to say, you can’t judge a turnip by its cover! Where Do Turnips Originate? Turnips likely originated in temperate parts of central Asia and western Europe. Wild forms of Brassica rapa (wild mustards, wild radishes, and cousins) are also the common ancestors of modern radish, mustard, rutabaga, and Chinese cabbage. The ancient Romans and Greeks both cultivated turnips in some form, though they were mostly reserved for rural peasants or for use as livestock fodder. As agriculture evolved, turnips spread far and wide throughout the Mediterranean to Asia and beyond. Turnips are so easy to grow that they readily adapted to most every region farmers tried to grow them. Turnips made their way to the Americas in the late 1500s and early 1600s when explorer Jacques Cartier brought them to Canada and Virginia colonists planted them around the same time in Virginia. Settlers quickly realized how dependable the humble turnip was amidst brutally cold winters when they really needed storage vegetables. Turnips vs. Rutabagas While they share a common ancestor, there is a lot of confusion about the difference between turnips and rutabagas. Turnip (Brassica Rapa) is a different species than rutabaga (Brassica napobrassica), but similar in both culture and cooking uses. Turnips mature faster and have thinner skins than their waxy rutabaga cousins. While turnips are usually harvested at 2-4” in diameter, rutabagas tend to be harvested at 4-6” and need to be cooked a bit longer due to their tougher texture. Rutabagas are often called “suedes” or “swedes” in Europe and Canada. This European “swede” (the same as the American rutabaga) was developed by crossing a cabbage and a turnip. Swedes remain very popular in England, Sweden, and Scandinavia to this day. Whether you prefer turnips or swedes, both species are grown and cooked in very similar ways. They can even be used interchangeably in many recipes. Propagation and Planting Like most brassicas, turnips are propagated by seed and easy to sow. Seeds tend to be on the larger size of mustard-seed, making them great for beginners. They germinate rapidly in 7-10 days and grow fast in consistently moist soil. Turnips are usually directly sown in the garden because their roots don’t particularly like disturbance. They are also moderately frost tolerant even as seedlings in the spring garden. However, if you prefer, they can be transplanted. But I’ve found that transplanting turnips or radishes just adds another unnecessary step. They like to grow in place. How to Direct Seed Turnips Turnips can be seeded in the spring approximately 2 to 3 weeks before your region’s last frost date. They can be sown in succession every few weeks for a continuous harvest through spring. In warmer climates, turnips usually have a harder time growing in the hottest months of June through August. For a fall harvest, you can begin seeding turnips again in late summer or early autumn. First, prepare a fertile well-drained garden bed with a thin loamy surface layer. Rake it flat and then use the handle of a garden tool to draw furrows in the soil about ½” deep with rows 12-18” apart. Sprinkle the turnip seeds about 1” apart for smaller turnips or 2” apart for larger turnips. You can always thin later if needed. Keep the seeds consistently moist until germination. I prefer to cover with a light floating row cover directly after seeding to keep the turnips safe from insects and hold in that moisture. For more tender turnips, use overhead or drip irrigation to keep seedlings consistently hydrated. Don’t let the soil dry out, but never let it get soggy either. How to Grow Turnips Turnips are a beginner gardener’s dream. When it comes to ease of care and quick maturity (fast gratification anyone?), they are only beaten by their radish cousins in growing speed. On average, turnips take 30-50 days to mature, depending on how big you’d like them to grow. They are super easy to care for and not very finicky about their growing conditions. With a few simple steps, your turnips will take off in no time and you’ll be enjoying their nutritious roots and greens before you know it! Maintenance These roots are notoriously easygoing and hands-off once they are planted and irrigated. The only important maintenance you will need to do is thinning. To yield nicely sized bulbs, be sure that turnip seedlings are at least 1-2” apart. The more even your seeding and thinning, the more uniform your turnips will be for preparing in the kitchen.