Are you looking for a showy plant that produces edible fruits, attracts pollinators, and helps feed birds? Look no further than the highbush cranberry. This cool-weather-loving shrub is perfect for northern gardens. Learn all about the highbush cranberry and how to grow it in your landscape. The highbush cranberry, also known as cranberry viburnum or American cranberrybush, is a bit of a puzzle. It produces sweet-tart, bright red, cranberry-like fruits, yet it’s not related to the true cranberry. American cranberrybush, Viburnum opulus var. americanum, is a variety of viburnum and is native to northern North America. Adding to the confusion, this deciduous native shrub is easily confused with a weedy species from Europe, known as the European cranberrybush, Viburnum opulus. North American gardeners will want to stick with the native species or one of its equally showy cultivars. You will then have a hardy and easy-to-grow native shrub with beautiful spring flowers and colorful fall foliage. The white flowers and scarlet red berries provide a feast for pollinators and songbirds, and the berries are edible and tangy, and make excellent fruity preserves! Are you ready to add some form and color to your woodland garden, rain garden, or bird garden? Let’s dig right into the details and see if the highbush cranberry is a great choice for your landscape! Plant Natural History Despite its name, the highbush cranberry is not related to true cranberries (Species Vaccinium, family Ericaceae). Highbush cranberry is a member of the Moschatel family (Adoxaceae), which consists of about 200 species of herbs, shrubs, and small trees, many with showy flowers and fruits. It was previously grouped in the honeysuckle family (Caprifoliaceae). The native range of the highbush cranberry includes all of the northern United States and Canada. The range extends as far south as Colorado, Illinois, and West Virginia. It will grow in the cooler mountain regions of more southern states but is not considered native in these areas. In its natural habitat, highbush cranberry is primarily an understory shrub that inhabits woodland margins and open hardwood forests. It prefers moist soils and is often found along streams and wetland edges. This is an important wildlife plant throughout its range and also offers food and medicinal value for humans. Do not confuse the native highbush cranberry with a similar species, the European cranberrybush (Viburnum opulus). European cranberrybush has escaped cultivation and naturalized in many northern states and Canada. The European species competes with the native highbush cranberry and other native plants. The fruits of the European cranberry bush are not palatable, nor are they favored by wildlife. Characteristics The highbush cranberry is a deciduous shrub with a maximum height of eight to 12 feet. It has a medium growth rate and will mature into a multi-stemmed shrub with a rounded, vase-like form. It has thin bark with a smooth to scaly texture and a light gray to tan color. Smaller stems have a reddish tint. The leaves somewhat resemble maple leaves, typically with three distinctive pointed lobes. The leaves measure three to six inches long and one to three inches across. They are opposite along the stems and coarsely toothed. Color during the growing season is uniformly medium green. In the autumn, the leaves turn golden yellow, followed by shades of red, burgundy, and purple. Highbush cranberry blooms in the spring. Its lacy white flowers form in flat-topped clusters. Each mass of flowers consists of two distinctly different flower types. The outer flowers are sterile but very showy. These are larger and pure white with five rounded petals. The inner flowers are fertile and much more abundant. These inner flowers are much smaller, creamy white, and have five recurved petals and prominent yellow-tipped anthers. Bright red berry-like drupes mature in the fall. These can be harvested and eaten raw or preserved as jellies and jams. They have a sweet-tart flavor and can be used as a substitute for traditional cranberries. Propagation Highbush cranberry is most easily propagated by seed, stem cuttings, or division.

’Jubilee’ bush watermelons bring exceptional sweetness on a compact, bushy form. Versatile across garden scales, including in pots and small spaces, the dwarf variety makes growing the hallmark fruits of summer achievable. Garden expert Katherine Rowe explores the merits of ‘Jubilee’ bush to highlight the warm season. ’Jubilee’ bush watermelons celebrate the flavor of summer. The dwarf melons boast superior sweetness on compact vines. Made for hot weather, the relative of a favorite southern heirloom stands up to heat and humidity for refreshing rewards on long summer days. An excellent melon for hot climates, ‘Jubilee’ bush is also a space-saving option with shorter vines and smaller fruits than the classically large oblongs. They’re a fit for containers and raised beds, and can grow vertically to free up ground space. ‘Jubilee’ bush expands the options for growing sweet, juicy fruits across climates and garden situations. Savor the delicious taste of summer by planting now and enjoying them later in the season. What are ‘Jubilee’ Bush Watermelons? ‘Jubilee’ bush is a prized watermelon variety for its flavor, manageable size, and ability to withstand heat and humidity with good production and disease resistance. Its high sugar content makes it a sweet selection among bush types, which aren’t always as sweet, juicy, and tender as their full-size counterparts. ‘Jubilee’ bush has lineage in the favorite heirloom ‘Jubilee’, a result of several crosses introduced by the Florida Agricultural Experiment Station in the early 1960s. ‘Jubilee’ is tops for its large, flavorful melons and resistance to wilt and anthracnose, setting it up for good yields in humid conditions. Like all melons, ‘Jubilee’ bush is in the Cucurbitaceae family along with squashes and cucumbers. Watermelons are long-maturing, soaking in the warmth and sun of summer days as they fill and sweeten. Characteristics ‘Jubilee’ bush produces light green, oval fruits with dark striping. The bright red flesh has a fine, crisp texture to complement the sweet taste. Ready for harvesting in about 90 days, ‘Jubilee’ bush produces three to five fruits per plant. The oval melons weigh 10 to 13 pounds, as compared to the 35-pounders of the standard ‘Jubilee,’ which reach over two feet long. The manageable vines spread three to five feet with resistance to common cucurbit diseases of Fusarium wilt and anthracnose. Native Area Citrullus lanatus is native to North Africa, with wild ancestors in southern Africa and the Kalahari Desert. The drought-tolerant species weren’t necessarily sweet, but they contained water for hydration. The fruits made their way to Egypt, where cultivation began for improvements in water content and sweetness. The ancient watermelons even appear in tombs in painted depictions and as physical seeds. The crop later presents in historical references in Israel, Ancient Rome, China, and Europe. The fruits traveled through colonization and the slave trade from Africa, making their way to North America. Cultivation dedicated to disease-resistant, table quality crops heightened during the last century and continues to innovate. Warm, sun-drenched growing conditions remain essential for their development. Planting In the ground, direct sow watermelon seeds or seedlings into low mounds to improve air circulation, drainage, and minimize damp conditions that lead to disease issues. Mounding also reduces root and vine competition for moisture, nutrients, and sunlight. Two to three vines planted in low, 16-inch tall mounds give vining stems room to run while elevating the crowns. Allow six to seven feet between mounds for vines to run.

The ‘Duke’ blueberry variety is grown for its prolific production and ability to withstand cold. Gardening expert Madison Moulton explains how to take care of this blueberry bush best Growing fruits reliably can be tricky for gardeners in colder climates. There is a balance required— some plants need a certain amount of cold exposure to fruit successfully, but too much frigid weather can damage some species. Blueberry lovers in colder regions won’t need to worry when growing the ‘Duke’ variety. This northern highbush is one of the hardiest blueberries available, suitable for frosty regions around the United States. They are also easy to grow when following these simple guidelines. What Is It? ‘Duke’ is a northern highbush blueberry variety known for its cold-hardy nature. These shrubs don’t mind a little chill, growing in USDA Zones 4-7. They produce flowers a little later in the season, avoiding issues with frost and ensuring cold-region gardeners don’t have to worry about frost protection. Although flowering is later, this variety is also one of the earlier producers. You can typically start harvesting berries at the beginning of summer, unlike other varieties like ‘Pink Lemonade’, which only start ripening in the middle of the season. The bush not only has berries that ripen early, but it also produces mountains of them – agricultural researchers assert it is one of the most prolific producers you can grow. You won’t have a shortage of delicious purple-blue berries to snack on if you choose ‘Duke.’ Planting Once you’ve purchased your blueberry bush, you’re bound to be excited to get it in the ground. However, it’s best to give it a little time to adjust before you plant. Changing environments are stressful for any plant, especially when they’ve been growing in optimal conditions at the nursery. For the first few days, keep your ‘Duke’ blueberry in a partially shaded area in its container. Avoid areas with high winds, as this can increase stress. Keep the soil lightly moist but not waterlogged until you’re ready to start the planting process. Don’t wait too long either – they only need a few days to adapt and limit shock. Plant within the first week in the shrub’s final home. Once your blueberry bush is acclimated, choose an ideal location for planting. Full sun is best for the highest possible yield, but these plants can also grow in partial sun. Soil is an important consideration, as blueberries are acid-loving plants. They won’t be happy in soil with a pH above 5.5 and prefer an even lower pH around 4.5 for the best possible growth. Test your soil and amend it until you achieve the right pH before planting. With your location identified, start digging the hole. It should be around twice as wide as the container and only slightly deeper, encouraging the roots to grow outwards into the soil. Lower the bush into the hole and plant at the same level it was at in the container, filling in the gaps with rich soil mix. Press down around the base of the plant to settle the roots in place and remove any large air pockets that may require a soil top-up. Water immediately after planting to prevent any further stress and encourage the roots to stretch deep into the soil. If you’re planting another blueberry bush simultaneously, leave at least 5 feet of space between each plant. Overcrowding can increase your risk of disease in both plants and increase competition for resources. However, growing multiple blueberries will improve pollination and overall yields.