Acanthus brings bold, structural foliage and form to the shady border. Join gardening expert Katherine Rowe in exploring the handsome architectural perennial that thrives in partial sun and shady garden sites. Acanthus is an architectural perennial with bold vertical interest and handsome, lush leaves. The scrolling foliage unfurls to form broad, frond-like leaves with a tropical look. Distinctive bloom spikes emerge in early summer on tall stalks, densely lined with creamy white and purple flowers to steal the show. The lush, glossy specimens grow primarily for their ornamental leafy structure with the added benefit of the towering bloom spikes. In the right situation, Acanthus grows easily with little maintenance and long-lasting display qualities. Acanthus Overview What is Acanthus? Acanthus, or bear’s breeches, comprises about 22 species from Europe, Asia, and Africa, with a long garden history. The architectural specimen has dark, glossy, deeply lobed leaves. The name is from the Greek “akantha,” meaning spines, in reference to the spiny leaf margins on some species. The specimens appear as early as the fifth century in architecture and art. As a leaf motif in ancient Greek and Roman architecture, they adorn Corinthian column capitals. In Greek mythology, Akantha was a nymph who rebuffed the god Apollo’s romantic advances, for which he turned her into a thorny plant. Acanthus is stately in formal and informal settings as specimens or small groups. Pair them with hosta, heuchera, ferns, iris, astilbe, epimedium, and Solomon’s seal for gorgeous layered combinations. Annuals like begonia and caladiums share the same growing conditions. Their blooms also make striking cut flowers. The vigorous growers spread through rhizomes to form clumps. In optimal conditions that mirror their Mediterranean climate, they spread aggressively. Some are invasive in Oregon and California. They root easily and can be difficult to remove once established. Most varieties benefit from being kept in bounds by walkways or edging. In areas with winter climates or hot summers, plants are more well-behaved with less spread. Hybrids are more compact and better behaved, suited to various garden situations. Characteristics Bear’s breeches’ long, basal leaves have sturdy central spines and form a rosette. In spring and summer, tall bloom spikes appear with vertical rows of creamy white flowers and purple-rose bracts. The hooded, two-lipped blooms line the spikes and resemble a large foxglove or oversized snapdragon. The perennials are drought-tolerant, deer and rabbit-resistant, with few pest and disease issues. They may be slow to establish but settle in by the second growing season. Several of the species are in cultivation. A. mollis and A. spinosus and their cultivars are the most widely grown for ornamental landscapes. A. mollis is a popular, historic European species that grows four feet tall and two to three feet wide. The bloom spikes top five feet in late spring and early summer. Individual flowers measure one inch. A. spinosus grows three to four feet with summertime blooms in June through August. The flower stalks rise three to four feet tall above the foliage. Leaves are deeply cut with spiny margins. A. hungaricus resembles A. spinosus but with slightly less divided, spiny foliage in dense clumps. It has pale pink to white flowers with attractive, ornamental leaves. This species is synonymous with A. balcanicus. A. montanus, or mountain thistle, is indigenous to tropical climes of West Africa. Hardy in zones 7 to 10, plants reach four to six feet tall. The shrubby perennial has deeply lobed, symmetrical leaves up to one foot long in silver and dark green. Mountain thistle is most susceptible to winter damage in lower zones. A. dioscoridis is native to Turkey, Syria, Armenia, and Iran. It has pink petals in early summer and divided leaves on one to two-foot plants. Acanthus sennii, or Ethiopian bear’s breech, grows at high elevations. Dark, glossy leaves have black stems. Late summer and fall flowers are bright red-orange. Native Area The ornamentals are native to Mediterranean climate zones with loose, well-draining soils and moderate temperatures. They grow in woodlands and slopes as understory spreaders. Occurring naturally in arid, mild climates, they may fade in heat and humidity or extreme winter conditions. Some hybrids perform well across zones without aggressive spreading. Planting As a rhizomatous spreader, Acanthus gradually forms a clump and continues to sprawl in optimal conditions. Planting it near a walkway or bounded bed helps keep it in check. Root barriers or areas where it has room to run work, too. When planting, space plants three feet apart to allow for air circulation.

Crocus flowers are bright and beautiful additions to your spring garden. In this guide, garden expert Matt Dursum will show you how to grow them so you get vivid blooms year after year. Crocus are multi-colored flowers that emerge in early spring and sometimes in late fall. They produce short, brightly colored flowers that can light up any temperate garden or yard. These popular flowering plants emerge from tiny structures called corms in the ground. After the bloom, they will keep coming back year after year, requiring little maintenance or extra care. There are several varieties grown for their colors and blooming season. One in particular is the autumn crocus (Crocus sativus), which is commonly known as saffron, the most prized spice in the world. Other flowers include the dark lilac-colored Dutch crocus and the late winter blooming Tricolor crocus. Keep reading below to learn how to grow these magical flowers in your yard and garden. What Is It? Crocus are small, colorful flowers, ranging from yellow and lilac to multicolored. Most varieties bloom in early spring, yet some bloom in autumn. Most grow especially well in cold climates with a lot of snow. Some prefer warmer climates with milder winters. Farmers in ancient Minoan-era Crete and Egypt have grown crocus flowers since around 2,100 B.C.E. They are popular for their early blooms and for producing saffron, one of the world’s most sought-after spices. In many gardens across the US, you can plant this variable and colorful flower and enjoy intense blooms for years to come. Characteristics Crocuses are small flowering perennials that grow from corms which resemble small bulbs in the soil. They come from the iris family, which includes common irises. The plant grows in a variety of conditions, from grasslands to woodlands. In the US, farmers have been growing crocus for centuries, including the spice saffron (Crocus sativus) since the 17th century. These corms flourish in areas with good rainfall and well-drained soil and can survive harsh winters. They are great companions with other spring-blooming flowers, such as tulips and daffodils. Crocus flowers can add an early bright burst of color to your spring garden. They also become one of the first sources of pollen for bees when they bloom, making them a healthy addition to your garden. Native Area Crocus originated in the Mediterranean, Alps, and Southern Europe. Farmers quickly spread them throughout temperate Europe and the Middle East. The word crocus likely originated in ancient Greece with the legend Crocus, a friend of the god Hermes. Many ancient cultures, including Greek, Spanish, Indian, and Middle Eastern, began using the edible stamens of the saffron crocus as a food crop. Saffron soon became an important spice and medicinal crop that spread throughout the region. Today, there are almost 100 identified species of crocus flowers. Their ideal climate is temperate continental, with some species preferring a mild Mediterranean and temperate climate. Planting Crocus flowers grow best when you plant their corms directly in south-facing meadows or lawns or in containers in well-drained soil. Plant the corms with their sharp points up and flat side down at a depth of two to three times the corm height, or three to four inches deep. Space them twice their width apart or more to avoid overcrowding. Get them into the ground up to eight weeks before the first frost of the season. This means in September and October in colder climates and November in southern states like Alabama and Texas. A long, cold winter season will give you extra intense blooms from most varieties. You can plant them in partial shade, but they do best in full sun. You can create a diverse array of flowers if you plant them in groups of ten or 15. As the last frosts hit the soil in late winter and early spring, the plants will emerge. You should get flowers for at least three weeks for most species.

Growing full-sized watermelons can seem daunting for home gardeners. They take up a lot of space and produce a massive fruit. If that’s not your style, try the “icebox” variety ‘Sugar Baby,’ packed with the same nutrients, juiciness, and flavor as their giant counterparts. Join organic farmer Jenna Rich as she discusses how to plant, grow, and care for it. I hadn’t grown watermelons until this season, and ‘Sugar Baby’ happened to be the one I ended up with. A neighbor had saved seeds from a previous year and asked me to start some for her in my greenhouse. I was happy to oblige and even happier when she offered me any extras as she only wanted four plants. Once summer was in full gear, I transplanted two seedlings into their own fabric grow bag and set them alongside my Birdies metal raised beds. Before long, their vines intertwined with my tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers. It was a beautiful jungle of all my favorite summer crops, and the melons performed well in their bags. After noting signs of full maturity, I harvested the first of several, and let me tell you, they did not disappoint. I recommend this delicious heirloom variety if you have space for a mini watermelon. Let’s learn how to plant, grow, care for, and enjoy ‘Sugar Baby’ watermelons. What Are ‘Sugar Baby’ Watermelons? This variety is an easy-to-grow, juicy, compact watermelon, an excellent option for individuals or young families. While mostly water, this heirloom also contains antioxidants, potassium, Vitamin C, carotenoids, and lycopene. It’s prolific, and our community loves it for its high yields, delicious flavor, consistency, and overall good health. ‘Sugar Baby’’s high sugar content gives it its standout sweetness. Appearance This adorable melon is small, round, deep green externally, with gorgeous dark red internal flesh. There may be some faint lighter green striping on the outside. The seeds are roundish and medium brown, and the rind is minimal. Each fruit weighs eight to ten pounds and is seven to ten inches in diameter, and each plant produces two to five melons. Native Area ‘Sugar Baby’ watermelons are native to Africa and was introduced to the United States in the 1950s. It quickly gained popularity for its size, flavor, and heirloom status. How to Grow These are sensitive to transplant, but with extra care, they’ll succeed without issues. ‘Sugar Baby’ watermelons are known for being low-maintenance. Sunlight Place plants where they’ll receive eight to ten hours of direct sunlight daily. Sunlight promotes ample flower production and stimulates pollination, and full sun will ensure their flesh is super sweet. Water Watermelons are named as such because they contain high water levels and require a lot of water to produce their massive, sweet, and juicy fruits. Water them one to two inches weekly if they have not received that much rainfall. Water at the base to ensure it reaches the roots. The soil should be consistently moist but not soggy. Soil Watermelons thrive in rich, loamy soil high in organic matter, which should remain moist throughout the growing season. The pH is ideally between 6.0 and 6.8, but they will tolerate anywhere between 5.0 and 7.0. A soil test before planting will help determine if you need to acidify your soil. Mulch Short-season growers in northern regions may add heavy straw mulching or silage tarps (black side up) around their melons and pathways to warm the soil temperatures. Mulching adds the bonus of suppressing weeds and fertility to the soil as it breaks down. Climate and Temperature Watermelons prefer air temperatures between 70 and 85°F (21 and 29°C). Cooler temperatures may stunt their growth and cause mushiness, and they will not tolerate a frost. Cover new transplants with a row cover to protect them from spring temperatures. Cool spring soil temperatures are not great for watermelon production. If the spring is unseasonably cool, start indoor seeds later to avoid rootbound seedlings. Fertilizing ‘Sugar Baby’ watermelons are heavy feeders, requiring high amounts of nutrients, water, and composted organic matter. A weekly fish emulsion foliar feed helps them thrive. You may side-dress with compost halfway through the season. Give a nitrogen boost before flowering occurs, when tendrils appear and vines lengthen. Switch to fertilizers that are heavier in potassium when you remove the insect netting, and flowering begins. Harvesting Around 75 to 80 days after transplant, begin monitoring for shriveled curly-Qs near the melon as it’s one of the tell-tale signs that it’s ready for harvest. At this time, the fruit is receiving no additional nutrients from the plant. There may also be a light green or yellow spot on the exterior where it sits on the soil surface and is tough to the touch. Gently tug on the fruit. If it releases itself without much effort, this confirms your suspicion, but if it fights back, leave it for another day or two. Pruning When thinned to the proper spacing, no pruning is necessary. However, when the season is nearing its end and cooler nights have arrived, some growers snip the growing tip so the plant can focus its energy on ripening the fruit on the vine. Propagation ‘Sugar Baby’ watermelons can be directly sown or started indoors three to four weeks before the last frost.