Lychee trees are a wonderful tropical addition to gardens in warm climates. Their sweet fruits are the perfect summer treat and the lush green leaves add ornamental value for the rest of the year. Gardening expert Madison Moulton explains everything you need to know to grow and care for lychees in this guide. I have a long list of fruit and nut trees in my garden. Macadamias, avocados, bananas, mangoes—I could go on. But one of my favorite trees (and certainly the favorite of anyone who visits my garden) is the lychee. Where I’m from, lychees (or litchis) are a summer staple. There’s nothing better than grabbing a bowl of them and peeling the red skin to reveal the tasty fruit underneath. And since they can be quite pricey, growing my own has saved me a lot of money over the years. As tropical fruits, lychees are largely reserved for gardeners in zones 10 to 11 (or 9 at a push). As they can be quite particular about their environment, it’s best to stick to their requirements as best as you can if you want masses of fruits. In the right location, lychees aren’t too difficult to care for. Follow the tips in this guide, and you’ll have a tropical fruit paradise in no time (or, more accurately, in three to five years). What Are Lychee Trees? Lychees are delicious tropical fruits from the tree Litchi chinensis. Although they aren’t as widely grown as some other tropical fruits (mangoes come to mind), their unique flavor makes them worth growing. They also aren’t the most common fruit to find fresh in stores, so if you love lychees, it’s easier (and far more budget-friendly) to grow your own. Lychee trees produce small, round fruits with rough red skin. Once you peel the skin back, you’ll find the delicious white or translucent flesh surrounded by a large seed in the center. The flavor is hard to describe, but it’s a kind of combination of sweet and floral, the perfect treat for summer. The fruits are only around for a short period, so what is there to enjoy for the rest of the year? Lychees have a lush and evergreen canopy with a tropical look that adds impressive ornamental value. The flowers may not look like much, but the glossy green leaves are a feature on their own. There are a few varieties to choose from, but ‘Mauritius’ and ‘Brewster’ are the most common. Characteristics Lychee trees can reach impressive heights of 40 feet or more in the right conditions. Thankfully, they respond well to pruning if you’re short on space or want to keep the tree at a more manageable size. You only need one to produce fruit too, so you don’t have to worry about finding space for two large trees. These trees, like many other fruit trees, unfortunately, do take their time to produce fruit. If you purchase one from a nursery, you’ll be waiting around 3 to 5 years for your first fruits. Starting from seed may require a decade (or more) of patience. In late spring, lychee trees produce clusters of greenish-white flowers that attract masses of pollinators like bees. In spring, my lychee tree is the most popular plant in my garden for bees, drawing so many that you can hear their buzz from inside the house. They are considered self-fertile—I only have one tree and enjoy more fruit than I know what to do with each year. But having more than one can potentially boost the fruit set and quality. Native Area These tropical fruit trees are native to southern China. They’re happiest in warm, humid climates with mild, dry winters and hot, rainy summers. They don’t perform well in coastal areas close to sea level. Lychees thrive in USDA zones 10 and 11, but those in zone 9 can still grow them paying a little more attention to cold snaps. If you live in an area where frost is common, consider planting in containers so you can move your tree indoors or to a sheltered spot like a greenhouse when temperatures drop. Planting Early spring is typically the best time to plant lychee trees. In warmer regions with mild winters, you can get away with planting a bit earlier to help them establish faster, but it’s always a good idea to keep a close eye on the forecast. You won’t be getting fruit in the first year anyway, so focus on a strong start instead. Find a location with at least six hours of sunlight daily. The soil should be well-draining, so avoid low-lying spots where water tends to pool. If your soil is heavy, work in plenty of organic matter before planting to improve drainage. If you’re planting from a nursery-grown tree, dig a hole that’s a little larger than the current bag or container. Gently remove the tree and place it in the hole so that it sits at the same level as in the container. Fill in the gaps with soil, firm it down gently, and water thoroughly to help the roots settle in. A layer of organic mulch around the base will also help keep moisture in (just don’t let it sit directly against the trunk). Starting from seed takes a little extra effort and a lot more patience. You also won’t get the same type of tree you planted from, so it’s fun for experimentation, but not reliability. Plant your seeds as soon as possible after removing them from the fruit. Soak overnight and sow the seeds about an inch deep in a well-draining soil mix and keep the soil moist. Apply consistent warmth and plenty of bright light. You’ll hopefully see a sprout in a few weeks. But if a quicker harvest and reliability is your goal, I recommend choosing a nursery-grown tree instead.

Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) is an easy-care herb from the Mediterranean region that’s closely related to carrots and dill and is prized for its edible leaves and stems. Although most gardeners grow parsley as an annual, it’s technically a biennial herb that grows for two years before dying away. During its first year, parsley produces the majority of its flavorful leaves; however, these plants yield even more leaves, flowers, and seeds if they’re allowed to overwinter into their second year. Available in both curly and flat-leaf varieties, parsley grows well in pots or larger gardens, and it’s a must-have herb for garnishing and flavoring pasta, salads, soups, and sauces. Beyond its culinary uses, parsley is also a fantastic companion plant for most veggies and herbs, and it readily attracts pollinators and beneficial insects to garden beds, too. Here's a comprehensive guide on how to grow parsley yourself, indoors or outside. Parsley Care Tips Parsley is a delicious and attractive plant, not only to humans. Here's everything you need to know about caring for it yourself. You’ll get more use out of parsley if you overwinter your plants with mulch and let them go to seed. Second-year parsley flowers are highly attractive to predatory insects, like hoverflies, and parsley readily self-sows if you don’t deadhead old flowers. Parsley is also a top host plant for swallowtail butterflies and planting a few extra parsley plants can attract more of these helpful pollinators to your garden. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Light Parsley grows best in full sun; indoor plants may need a grow light to prevent spindly stems. In hot climates, parsley will do better in a location that receives morning sun and light afternoon shade. Soil These plants thrive in rich, well-draining soils with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Amending gardens with compost before planting is recommended. Water Like other tender-stemmed herbs, parsley needs to be watered regularly and deeply with about an inch of water per week. For improved growth, add mulch around the base of your plants, and add liquid organic fertilizer diluted to half strength once or twice during the growing season. Temperature and Humidity Parsley isn’t fussy about humidity and established plants can handle light frosts. However, these plants are at their best when temperatures range between 50°F and 70°F, and second year plants bolt quickly in hot weather. Varieties to Grow Parsley comes in a few different varieties and each type of parsley shines in its own way. Italian flat leaf: The most popular parsley for cooking, flat leaf parsley has big leaves that are easy to chop. It also has a sweeter and stronger flavor than other parsleys and is slower to bolt in hot weather. Curly parsley: Commonly grown in garden bed borders and pots, curly parsley has a milder taste than flat-leaf varieties, but its curly leaves make a striking garnish. Hamburg (or root) parsley: A lesser-known type of parsley, root parsley is a multi-use plant that produces plump, parsnip-like roots and edible greens. How to Plant Parsley Seeds Although potted parsley can be purchased at garden centers, growing parsley from seed is surprisingly easy, and can save you money on your gardening budget. Just keep in mind that parsley is a slow grower and seeds take between two and four weeks to sprout. In a Garden Starting parsley seeds outside is the easiest way to grow parsley. However, parsley seeds should only be planted outdoors after your last spring frost date. Pick a spot. Choose a sunny location and prepare the planting site by removing weeds and amending the soil with compost. Soak seeds and sow. Soak parsley seeds overnight and then sow the seeds 1/4 inch deep and about 1 to 2 inches apart in rows spaced about 12 to 18 inches from each other. Water. Water the site well and wait for the seedlings to sprout. Pick the best seedlings. When the seedlings are 2 inches tall, thin out the weakest plants and leave about 8 to 10 inches of space between the remaining seedlings. Mulch and care. Add mulch and continue to care for your parsley until harvest. Indoors If you live in a cold area and want to harvest parsley earlier, start seeds indoors about six to eight weeks before your last frost date. Soak seeds. Soak parsley seeds in water for 12 to 24 hours before planting to boost germination rates. Ready seeds in trays. Fill pots or seed starting trays with a pre-moistened seed starting mix, plant 1 to 2 parsley seeds per pot or seeding cell, and cover the seeds with about 1/4-inch of soil. Give light and water. Move the seeds under a bright grow light and water them just enough to keep the soil evenly moist. Adjust lighting after sprouting. Once the seedlings sprout, adjust the grow light as needed to keep it about 2 inches above the top of the plants at all times. Continue watering. Pick the best seedlings. When the seedlings are 2 inches tall, thin out the weakest seedlings and leave just one plant per pot or seed cell. Harden off seedlings and transplant. Harden the seedlings off over a 1 to 2 week period, and transplant the seedlings outside after your last frost date. Transplanted seedlings should be spaced about 8 to 10 inches apart in holes that are only slightly larger than the plant’s root ball. Then, water the seedlings in and add mulch. Or keep indoors. If you want to keep parsley indoors, just move your plants into a sunny spot and water regularly. Harvesting Parsley You can start harvesting parsley when the plants are about six inches tall and their leaves have three leaf segments. Harvest the outer leaves first by cutting the plant stems at the soil line with scissors and leave the center of the plant to regrow. You can harvest leaves little by little or in larger quantities, but never harvest more than 1/3 of your plant in one go and wait two to three weeks in between larger harvests. Storing Parsley Freshly cut parsley should last for about 1 to 2 weeks in the fridge if you place cut stems in a glass filled with a few inches of water like cut flowers. For longer storage, parsley can be frozen whole, chopped, or in oil. Or, it can be dried with hang drying, a food dehydrator, or an oven set on its lowest setting, and stored in spice jars in a cool, dark spot. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Aphids, leafhoppers, and carrot flies sometimes target parsley, but these pests can be avoided with crop rotation and row covers, and eradicated with organic soap sprays. Leaf spot and powdery mildew usually occur when parsley plants are grown too closely together or if they’re watered from the top down. However, you can avoid these issues by spacing parsley plants apart and watering at the soil line. Parsley also bolts quickly in hot weather, but bolting can be delayed by planting parsley in light afternoon shade and pinching flower buds before they open.

Growing basil (Ocimum basilicum) is not difficult, as long as you know how to water it. The schedule may vary depending on your climate and whether you have it planted indoors or outside. Generally, this perennial herb does well in warm climates and thrives in full sun. However, it still likes moist, well-drained soil. "Just like an outdoor garden, every indoor growing space is unique," says Jordan Mara, founder of Mind & Soil. "Rather than having a strict watering schedule, focus on paying more attention to the foliage and soil to determine whether the plant is in need of its next watering." Here is everything you need to know about basil watering needs. Meet the Expert Jordan Mara is the founder of Mind & Soil. When to Water Basil Basil loves moist soil, so it makes sense to give the herb infrequent deep waterings instead of daily shallow watering. The reason for this approach? You want the water to penetrate at least 2 inches of soil so it won't dry out as quickly through evaporation. "Additionally, this trains the roots of the plant to search down more deeply for water, creating a larger root system," Mara says. A mature plant will likely need a good deep watering once a week, but of course this might depend on the environment, especially if the basil is planted inside. "This is because the light source is not as intense as the sun and there is generally less airflow indoors," Mara says. "As a result of a less intense light source and less wind, the soil will not dry up as quickly." For outdoor basil gardens, Mara says the best time of day to water basil that grows outside is either first thing in the morning or in evening. "Avoid watering in the middle of the day as the water will evaporate most quickly at this time and water on the leaves can result in burning from the sun," he says. Basil Water Schedule: Indoors and Outdoors Like with most plants, the frequency of watering depends on the amount of light, temperature, humidity, soil type, and potting container. The main thing to keep in mind when it comes to basil is that it likes moisture. As a rule of thumb, you want to aim to water once a week, however, if your basil is potted indoors, you may want to increase watering to every two to four days as the water may evaporate quicker. This approach also applies to basil in pots, even if it is outside. Unlike basil that grows in the ground, potted basil can dry out faster. "This is because rather than only the top of the soil being dried out by sun and wind, now all sides of the pot are being exposed to the sun and wind," Mara explains. "As such, evaporation now occurs from all directions." However, it's important to keep in mind that every environment is going to be different. Brown recommends focusing on paying attention to the actual foliage of your plant and digging down two inches into the soil rather than a fixed schedule. Light Basil loves sunlight. It grows exceptionally well when exposed to about six to eight hours of light each day. Keep in mind that even though this herb loves the sunshine, if you have direct midday sun, it may dry it out too quickly. Ideally, basil should have full morning sun that isn't too intense. If you notice that the leaves are pale green, instead of vibrant green, that means the herb may not be getting enough light. If your potted basil is indoors, move it to a sunnier location. Temperature and Humidity Very warm temperatures are quite hospitable to basil. You will have a full plant when the temperatures range between 80 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature goes above 95 degrees Fahrenheit, the plant may undergo stress and the leaves may dry out. In that case, increase the watering frequency and create artificial shade. If the temperature drops to around 50 degrees Fahrenheit, the basil will not do well and the leaves may blacken. Anything below 45 degrees Fahrenheit is likely to harm your herb. When it comes to humidity, basil will thrive when the levels are somewhere between 40 and 60 percent. Indoor humidity is typically around 30 and 60 percent, so your window sill planters of herbs should do just fine. Soil Type Basil does well in well-draining soil. You can purchase vegetable and herb potting mix for both your planters and garden beds. If you have your soil tested for pH levels, basil will grow well in the 6.0 to 7.5 range. Potting Container Basil loves well-draining soil, so make sure that if you are using a planter, it has well-draining holes. You do not want the basil roots to sit in water. Also, make sure that your potting container has ample space for roots, a large pot that is at least 9 inches deep and 12 inches wide is a good start. Basil does especially well in raised beds or containers because both offer drainage and a welcoming environment that retains heat. This is particularly helpful in the spring when the plant is establishing. How Basil Plants Hold Water Basil is a humidity-loving plant and can absorb moisture through its leaves. This means you can mist the herb, in addition to providing it with plenty of water. The plant uses its roots to drink up water, but too much water around the roots can cause them to rot. For deep watering, Mara suggests the following: use a watering can or the shower setting on your hose and begin watering the soil all around where the stem enters the ground. If possible, avoid watering the leaves and only water the foliage. Once the water begins to pool, move on to your other plants and return to the basil plant after two to three minutes. Dig down 2 inches again to check and see if it's moist. If it is, you're all finished. However, if it is not moist 2 inches down, do a second round of watering. Repeat this process until the soil is moist 2 inches below the surface. Signs Your Basil Plant Is Underwatered Sad, sagging leaves are a sign that basil needs more water. If the plant is wilting, find a watering can pronto. You should also look at the soil level, if it is dry at the two inches level, it is time to water, Mara recommends. Here is what you should look for. Wilting leaves Sagging and drooping stems Dry soil at the base of the plant Remember, basil needs at least 1 inch of water every week to stay healthy and thrive. Signs Your Basil Plant Is Overwatered According to Mara, if your basil plant's leaves start to show brown or black spots, it is a sign that you are overwatering. Keep an eye out for the following. Brown spots Wilting stems Yellow leaves at the base of the plant Foul soil smell (a sign of root rot) Note that brown spots on leaves could also mean that the environment is too cold for the basil. (You'll also see this happen in the fridge if the temperature is too low). Store herbs in a crisper or in the front of the fridge if this is the case.