Growing perennial herbs is a savvy way to save money in the garden and make gardening chores a lot easier. However, keeping track of the herbs that are actually perennials can be a bit of a challenge since many perennial herb plants are commonly treated like annuals in cold climates. To help you out, we’ve compiled a list of popular perennial herbs below, including a selection of the most cold hardy plants that can survive winters in the chilliest gardens. What Are Perennial Herbs? Perennial herbs are relatively long-lived plants that take more than 2 years to complete their life cycle. These plants are winter hardy in their native habitat and often get quite large as they mature. Many of our most popular culinary herbs are technically perennials, including most mints and woody-stemmed herbs like lavender. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! What Are Annual Herbs? Herbs that are true annuals often have tender stems and a fast growth rate and they complete their entire life cycle in less than a year. That means that if you plant annual herb seeds in spring, you can expect your plants to reach their mature size, flower, and produce seeds all before they die back in fall. Dill, cilantro, and other herbs in the carrot family fall into this category; however, many perennial herbs are treated like annuals when they’re planted outside of their hardiness zone. Perennial vs. Tender Perennial Herbs Although tender perennial herbs are technically perennial plants, tender herbs are sensitive to the cold and they don’t survive winters in chilly climates. Most growers cultivate tender perennial herbs, like basil, as annuals and allow their plants to die back in fall. However, cold-sensitive herbs can be kept alive for years by overwintering them indoors or in a heated greenhouse. If you want to grow perennial herbs with minimal effort and don’t want to bother with overwintering plants indoors, select herbs that are winter hardy in your growing zone. Many cold tolerant, perennial herbs can be cultivated outdoors year round without winter protection—and some can even be harvested when they’re covered in snow. Common Perennial Herbs From apple mint to winter savory, there are many perennial herbs to choose from. But just because herbs are perennials, doesn’t mean they’ll necessarily grow perennially in your area. Before planting any of the following herbs in your garden, doublecheck their hardiness zone to make sure they can survive winters in your garden. Anise Hyssop Apple Mint Bay Laurel Bee Balm Bronze Fennel Catnip Chives Chocolate Mint French Tarragon Garlic Chives Lavender Lemon Balm Lemon Thyme Lemon Verbena Lovage Marjoram Mountain Mint Oregano Peppermint Pineapple Sage Roman Chamomile Rosemary Sage Salad Burnet Shiso Spearmint Stevia Sweet Cicely Thyme Winter Savory 11 Perennial Herbs to Grow Many growers dream of having a large herb garden brimming with fresh herbs for cooking, tea making, and more. But if you don’t have a lot of room for growing herbs, reserve the space you do have for the herbs you use the most in your recipes and plants that are well-suited to your growing zone. If you’re having a hard time choosing between herb plants, here’s a list of 11 perennial herbs that are especially versatile in the kitchen and easy to care for. Bay Laurel If you use a lot of bay leaves in your cooking, why not grow a bay laurel tree (Laurus nobilis) or two and harvest your own bay leaves for recipes? Although bay laurels only grow perennially in USDA zones 8 through 10, these plants thrive in roomy pots and can be cultivated indoors in cold locations. Among their many charms, bay laurel plants are relatively pest-proof, they’re long-lived, and their glossy green leaves have lots of aesthetic appeal. Chives Chives grow well in gardens or pots, and they can be used—fresh or dry—to flavor salads, soups, baked potatoes, casseroles, and many more dishes. Incredibly cold tolerant, chives grow perennially in zones 3 and up and they’re fantastic companion plants for attracting bees and other pollinators to veggie gardens. If you’re tired of classic chives, try growing garlic chives instead and use the garlic-flavored leaves in any recipe that calls for garlic cloves. Lavender Many growers cultivate lavender plants just for their richly scented leaves and charming, purple flowers. However, English lavender is edible and it can be used in desserts, brewed into teas, or infused into creative cocktails and mocktails. Like many other woody-stemmed herbs, lavender grows best in full sun and well-draining soil, and most varieties are winter hardy from zones 5 through 9. Marjoram There are several types of marjoram, but the most common variety for cooking is only hardy from zones 9 and up. If you live in a warm location, you can grow marjoram outdoors year round, but growers in colder areas should move their plants inside in winter if they want to keep them around. Marjoram leaves taste a bit like citrus mixed with pine and they can be used to elevate the taste of pasta sauces and other savory treats. Mint Growers have lots of mint plants to choose from, but peppermint and spearmint are usually the easiest plants to find at garden centers. Apple mint, chocolate mint, lemon balm, and catnip also fall into the mint category and, like other mint plants, they grow best when they’re provided with regular water and plenty of sun. Most mint plants grow aggressively and they should be kept in pots or dedicated raised beds to avoid invasiveness; however, native mountain mint plants are more mild-mannered and they’re especially attractive to native bees. Oregano Another cold hardy herb, common oregano grows perennially in zones 4 and up, and plants often remain evergreen through the winter months. In fact, you may be able to harvest small quantities of oregano leaves even when there’s snow on the ground and use those leaves to flavor pizza sauces, soups, and other cozy treats. For more variety, try lesser known oregano varieties like Greek oregano, Mexican oregano, or Syrian oregano. Roman Chamomile German chamomile and Roman chamomile are both grown for herbal teas; however, only Roman chamomile grows perennially. Compared to German chamomile, Roman chamomile plants are relatively short and they sport smaller, white and yellow flowers that are highly attractive to pollinators. Picking chamomile flowers every day or two keeps plants productive, and it’s the best way to boost the size of your chamomile harvest. Sage A classic herb for flavoring roasted meats and veggies, sage plants maintain a relatively upright growth habit and usually max out at around two to three feet tall. These plants grow well in pots or garden beds, but they should be kept in full sun and well-draining soil to avoid issues like root rot. Most culinary sage plants boast soft, silvery-green leaves, but if you love lots of garden color, you may want to grow purple or tricolor sage instead. Tarragon Hardy in zones 4 and up, tarragon is a popular ingredient in French cuisine and its licorice-flavored leaves are often blended into butter or infused into vinegar or olive oil. As with other homegrown herbs, tarragon leaves can be used fresh or they can be frozen or dried for longer term storage. Not only are tarragon plants tasty, but their buttery orange flowers bring lots of color to herb beds and flower pots—and they’re highly attractive to pollinators, too. Thyme Another woody-stemmed herb from the Mediterranean region, thyme prefers to grow in well-draining, sandy soil and full sun. While common thyme is the most popular thyme variety for culinary use, adventurous gardeners may want to grow other types of thyme instead. Lemon thyme, for instance, is prized for its lemony flavor; while creeping thyme has a particularly low growth habit and can be used as an edible ground cover or grass alternative in lawns. Winter Savory Unlike summer savory, winter savory is a perennial plant that has woody stems and a deep, rich flavor with notes of black pepper and pine. Hardy to zone 4, winter savory is often grown as a marjoram substitute in cold climates, but it’s also useful as a pest-repelling companion plant in vegetable gardens. If you want to dry woody-stemmed herbs like winter savory, gather the herb stems in bundles and hang them in a warm, dry place with good air flow until the stems are thoroughly dry and brittle.

Love or hate the taste, cilantro is a popular addition to many cuisines. If you're growing cilantro you have probably had the problem of it bolting easily, which simply means that the plant sends up a flower stalk and goes to seed. Since cilantro is a cool-season herb, warming temperatures will signal to the plant that it's time to flower and go to seed rather than continue producing leaves. It's very sensitive to warmer temperatures, so if you're seeing signs of flowering, that's likely why. Bolting is the plant is doing what comes naturally, but you can slowly down the bolting with these some growing tips. Learn more ahead about cilantro bolting. Why Does Cilantro Bolt? Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum) is a short-lived annual, cool-season herb.1 Once temperatures begin to rise and reach the 70s, the plant responds by bolting (flowering and going to seed) as a way to continue its life cycle. Producing seeds means that the species has a chance for another crop. 6 Ways to Keep Cilantro from Bolting While it can be difficult to stop cilantro from bolting, there are some ways to extend the life of the plant before it goes to seed and dies. Keep it Cool Whether you are growing cilantro in the garden or indoors in containers, temperature is a huge factor in how long the plant will last before it bolts. You can extend the harvest season by planting it in the early spring and fall when day and nighttime temperatures or lower. If growing cilantro indoors keep the plants around 70 degrees or lower. Control the Sunlight Cilantro needs only about six hours of bright sunlight. Select an indoor or outdoor spot that doesn't receive high-noon heat. Lighting for indoor pots of cilantro is easily controlled with grow lights. If planting outdoors in a hot climate, consider placing the plants where they can receive some afternoon shade. Too much heat from direct sun can cause the plant to bolt early. Water Regularly Plants that receive too much or too little water are placed under stress. To survive the stress, the plant bolts to produce some seed to extend the species. Whether growing in containers or the ground, keep the soil evenly moist but be sure the roots are never waterlogged. Pinch or Prune Often For new plants, once they reach about six inches tall pinch back the tips. Harvest or prune the leaves often (once a week) to remove damaged growth, yellowing leaves, or flowers that form. Practice Succession Planting This tip doesn't stop cilantro plants from bolting but it does help you keep tender, tasty cilantro on hand. Wait two to three weeks between each time you start seeds or plant new cilantro seedlings. This is called succession planting or planting the same crop several times during the growing season. Choose Slow-Bolting Cultivars There are cilantro cultivars that are less prone to bolting. Look for seedlings or seed packets that are described as bolt-resistant, heat-tolerant, or long-standing. Three choices are ‘Calypso’, ‘Slo Bolt’, and 'Leisure'. These cultivars are usually less sensitive to heat and can produce good-tasting foliage a bit longer into the growing season. Why Bolted Plants Can Actually Be Beneficial While it is disappointing to see a plant bolt and die, there are benefits to the natural process of bolting. The flowers that form will help attract much-needed pollinators to your garden. Many plants produce edible seeds after bolting that add flavor to prepared foods. The most beneficial effect of bolting is the production of seeds that can be saved to grow new plants. Backyard gardeners and commercial farmers have long known the value of allowing some plants to "go to seed" to maintain the longevity of a plant species.

If you enjoy growing fresh herbs, then try adding apple mint (Mentha suaveolens) to your garden. This easy-to-grow perennial may become a new favorite for cool drinks, sweet additions to your dishes, and much more. Learn more about growing and caring for apple mint. About Apple Mint A member of the mint family, apple mint is an upright, herbaceous perennial herb often used as a ground cover. Hardy in USDA zones 5-9, apple mint spreads rapidly through rhizomes and can become invasive. If ingested, the leaves and stems are toxic to cats, dogs, and horses.1 Apple mint grows to two feet tall with large (2-inches long) light green, slightly hairy leaves and produces terminal spikes of small pink or white flowers in the summer that attract pollinators. The leaves have a milder mint flavor than some varieties with a light fruity hint of apple. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How to Care for Apple Mint Once established, apple mint is easy to grow by following these guidelines. Light In cooler growing areas, apple mint grows best in full sun. In areas of high temperatures, it needs some afternoon shade to protect the leaves from burning. When grown in shade, apple mint will become leggy and flop over. Soil The plant prefers well-draining, rich soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH but can adapt to most soil types. Water To produce fresh, tender leaves, apple mint requires regular watering and consistently moist soil. Fertilizer If apple mint is planted in poor soil, the plants should be fertilized about once per month (every 4 to 6 weeks) during the growing season. Container-grown apple mint will benefit from feeding with a water-soluble, balanced, all-purpose fertilizer (10-10-10 NPK) throughout the growing season, starting in spring when the plants emerge. Propagating Apple mint can be propagated by taking cuttings and rooting them in water. Take the cuttings in late spring to early summer when the plant is actively growing and before it has bloomed. Snip a stem that is four to six inches long and strip off the leaves from the lower half of the stem. Put the cutting in a container of water placed in an area with bright, indirect sunlight. Change the water every few days until the roots grow about two inches long. Plant in moist potting soil and keep it watered for three weeks until the roots are strong enough to transplant to the garden or a larger container. Why Apple Mint Makes a Great Companion Plant Like most mint plants, the menthol in the leaves of apple mint repels many insects making it a good companion plant for the garden. According to the University of Georgia Extension, mint repels cabbage moths, ants, mice, and fleas and is not inviting to deer.2 However, because mint spreads rapidly, the University suggests planting it in containers and placing them throughout the garden. How to Harvest and Use Apple Mint To keep apple mint plants thriving and producing more growth, cut a stem around four inches long rather than plucking individual leaves. Make your cut just above a pair of leaves to keep the plant bushier. By cutting the stem the plant will produce more stems and leaves. The most tender and tastiest leaves are at the tips. Harvest mint in the morning when the essential oils in the foliage are at their most potent. Regular harvesting is important for good-tasting apple mint. Once the plant produces flowers or goes to seed, the leaves can have a bitter note. How to Use Apple Mint Apple mint leaves can be eaten fresh in salads, brewed in hot water for tea, or added as a garnish to cool drinks. The leaves should be stored in the refrigerator. Loosely wrap the leaves in a damp paper towel and place them inside a perforated plastic bag to keep them fresh for 7 to 10 days. The leaves can also be frozen or dried. To freeze, rough-chop the leaves and pack them into ice cube trays. Add just enough water to act as a binder between the leaves, then freeze. Once solid, remove the mint ice cubes from the tray and put them in a freezer storage bag to use for drinks. To dry the apple mint leaves, use a dehydrator or hang the mint plants to air-dry. Crumble the leaves and store them in an air-tight glass container.