Cilantro, unlike many other herbs, is best used fresh. If you regularly cook with cilantro, you know that keeping a supply of it on hand can be tricky because cilantro is a delicate herb. A bunch of cilantro bought at the grocery store, even if stored properly in water in the fridge, starts looking rather sad after a few days. Fortunately, there is a way to extend the life of the cilantro you buy at the grocery store—by propagating it. You can either grow more cilantro leaves (which does not require pots and potting soil) or take it one step further and create new cilantro plants from the stems. Here’s how to propagate cilantro so you never have to run to the grocery store for it again. How to Propagate Cilantro in Water Separate the cilantro bunch and sort out any weak stems (use those for cooking). For each strong stem, cut all the outer leaves except the center leaves with clean, disinfected scissors. If there are tiny leaves growing from the center of the stem, leave them intact. Put the stems in a clean jar and add two to three inches of room-temperature tap water—just enough so that the base of the stems is immersed in water. Place the jar in a place with bright, indirect light where the temperature is around 60-70°F. Change the water every day or two. Leaf growth should start after a few days. Harvest the new leaves as desired using sharp scissors. Chances of Dulled Flavor As easy and convenient as it is, cilantro that is propagated in water will produce fresh leaves for you to harvest but it won’t grow as vigorously as when it is planted in soil. The taste of the leaves also tends to be weaker and not as aromatic as cilantro grown in a proper growing medium. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Cilantro Propagation Tips Picking cilantro: Only use cilantro that looks healthy and is as fresh as possible. Look for cilantro that still has some of the white roots attached—the more roots that are on each stem, the better. Don’t use stems that are wilted or have any signs of disease such as spotting. Keeping it clean: To avoid bacterial growth, keep the jar and the water clean. It is also a good idea to sanitize the scissors by wiping them with rubbing alcohol. Safety precautions: If your tap water is chlorinated, let it sit for a day to allow the chlorine to evaporate before using. Preventative care: Do not immerse the cuttings in water—they will rot. Only the base of the stems should be under water, never the leaves. Signs of problems: Slime forming around the stems or roots is a sign of bacteria. Change the water immediately and rinse the stems and roots under running water. If the problem persists, start again with fresh cilantro. Signs of exhaustion: If leaf growth weakens or stops after a few weeks, the stems have given their all. Discard them and start with a fresh bunch of cilantro. Signs of vitality: However, if the stems have developed lots of roots about 1 inch in length, you can extend the life of your cilantro even further by planting it in a pot filled with well-draining all-purpose potting mix. Best placement: Cilantro needs light to grow but avoid harsh, direct sunlight. If your kitchen gets strong midday or afternoon sun, place the jar a couple of feet away from the window. Best temperature: Keep the jar away from heat sources. Cilantro grows best in temperatures between 50-85°F. Why Propagate Cilantro in Water? Propagating cilantro in water saves you a trip to the grocery store, especially if you only need a small amount of cilantro at any given time, which is what many recipes call for. The method is easy, cheap, and requires virtually no equipment or tools. Even for seasoned gardeners, it’s an attractive way to get their hands on fresh cilantro when it’s too cold to grow it outside. Propagation of stem cuttings in water is also much faster than starting cilantro from seed, which takes 40 to 70 days.

Crocosmia bursts into flower in summer with fiery bloom spikes that add visual interest and draw pollinators. Gardening expert Katherine Rowe explores the zest and carefree nature of the bulbous perennials. Crocosmia brightens the border with sword leaves and blooms in bright orange, reds, and yellows. They emerge in summer among strappy leaves and flower through fall, providing nectar and pollen for bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, and other pollinators. Eye-catching in both sun and dappled shade, the old-fashioned favorites delight with easy care. With consistent moisture, crocosmia happily naturalizes (sometimes too happily). Crocosmia is vibrant in a group, offering contrast in texture and color. Here, we’ll explore how to grow these bulbous perennials for dynamic interest. What is Crocosmia? The Crocosmia genus houses about seven species, with thousands of cultivars, many of which are Royal Horticultural Society Award of Garden Merit recipients for their bold blooms and ease of growth. Their fiery trumpets enliven the border with tubular flowers on gently arching scapes. The heirlooms also make striking cut flowers in fresh florals. These low-growing perennials form clumps through spreading corms to create colonies. The spiked flowerheads appear in mid-summer for color through autumn. Related to gladiolas in the Iridaceae (iris) family, bloom spikes hold two rows of petaled trumpets in tapered sprays. The genus name derives from the Greek krokos, or “saffron,” and osme, “smell.” The flowers emit a subtle scent, intensified when dried petals, leaves, and stems steep in hot water. Crocosmia, also called montbretia, copper tips, or falling stars, make lovely groupings in borders, cottage gardens, pollinator plantings, and cutting gardens, and naturalistic arrangements. Pair them with bananas, canna, flowering ginger, and agapanthus for a tropically-inspired display. Combine them with other perennials like salvia, dahlia, coneflower, rudbeckia, and ornamental grasses for a full-color panorama. Crocosmia also offers vertical interest in containers. Characteristics The South African natives hold their blooms for a long time in reds, golds, and bicolors. Bloom sprays open from the bottom to the top with a symmetrical flare. Slender, strappy foliage is medium green with a fan of blades. Upper growth stems from underground corms, thick, starchy, bulb-like roots that can be flat or round with fibrous layers. Some species spread vigorously in their optimal growing conditions, leading them to be invasive in some areas. Crocosmia x crocosmiifora is a popular ornamental that escapes garden cultivation. Most cultivars are better behaved. Avoid planting the genus if aggressive in your region, which can displace other plants, including native species. Forming a dense mat, crocosmia is a competitor for water, sunlight, and nutrients. Thin and divide the colony to keep it from spreading out of bounds. After flowering, bright green seedpods emerge, extending the interest and providing forage for birds. In their optimal conditions, they’ll drop, scatter, and yield seedlings. With wildflower qualities, montbretia are carefree growers. Deer and rabbits mostly avoid them, and they have few pests and diseases. Hardy to USDA zone 6, they benefit from extra winter protection or lifting and storing corms in zones 5 and lower. Native Area Native to southern Africa, from Sudan to South Africa to Madasgar, Crocosmia is indigenous to provinces in southeastern Africa where they grow in moist grasslands and along streambanks. Planting Spring offers the best planting conditions with warming soils that foster quick sprouting. Start with corms or nursery potted specimens. For corms, plant them three to five inches deep with a close spacing to allow for a six-inch spread. Aim to have the slightly pointed end facing upward and the flat root end pointed down. Plant potted nursery selections anytime from spring through fall, avoiding dry spells and heatwaves that can stress new plantings. In cold climates at the lower hardiness zones, lift the bulbs for planting in the spring. The shallow-rooted specimens are easy to dig. Clean and dry the bulbs to store in a cool, dry spot over the winter. Plant them after the threat of spring’s final frost passes.

Basil flowering takes energy from leaf production, causing leaves to become bitter and bad for cooking. Keep basil from flowering by pinching off any flowering bits to redirect energy to the leaves. Prune and pinch your plant regularly to keep it healthy, lush, and useful. With the right love and care for a basil plant, it's not long before you have the main ingredients for delicious culinary recipes and a wonderfully bright addition to your herb garden. But trouble could be brewing if your basil plant grows too far. When flowers appear on a basil plant, it's best to get rid of them and stop them from continuously blooming. But why is it important to keep your basil from flowering? Here's what the experts say happens, and what to do if your plant has already flowered. Meet the Expert Adam Weiss is a master gardener and the founder of Pike Lane Gardens, a wellness program rooted in sustainability bringing organic vegetable gardening to the workplace. Sara Rubens is a certified garden coach and the founder of Seed to Sanctuary, which helps folks create edible gardens. Why Keep Basil From Flowering? Although there are over a dozen different types of basil out there, you'll find that it's better to prevent most from flowering. Flowers can range from white to purple and while they might look nice, this impacts the flavor. "If left to bloom, the plant will redirect its energy toward producing seeds rather than growing new leaves," says master gardener Adam Weiss. "This can cause the plant to slow or stop leaf production, making the existing leaves tough and bitter." Bitter basil defeats the purpose of an herb garden as the leaves become unusable in cooking. The best way to stop this is to prevent basil from flowering. Simply pinch off any flowers or buds to continue redirecting energy to the leaves. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! What Happens If Basil Flowers If basil flowers, it becomes more bitter. That's why pruning basil is a large part of the care requirements for this plant. Have a pair or scissors or shears at the ready to collect leaves and nip anything in the bud before it blooms. "By pinching off the flower buds as soon as you see them, you encourage the plant to keep producing fresh, tender leaves instead of going into reproduction mode, often called bolting," says certified garden coach Sara Rubens. By making use of your basil plant, you're also supporting its health and growth. So don't be shy about snipping off leaves for your projects. "Regularly harvesting basil and removing the top few sets of leaves (including any flower buds) also keeps the plant bushy and vigorous," explains Rubens. "It promotes branching, which leads to a fuller, more productive plant." What to Do If Your Basil Already Flowered Don't worry if your basil has already flowered, you have a few choices to prevent more bitter leaves. "You can still pinch off the blooms and harvest, but the flavor might not be as sweet or intense as it was before," says Rubens. As for any other plants? Keep a watchful eye and stay on top of pruning to avoid losing out on the tastiest flavor. However, you don't have to remove or cut back the ones that have flowered either. "If you’re growing multiple basil plants, you can choose to let a few flowers remain, which will help attract bees and other beneficial pollinators to your garden," says Weiss. "You can then use those flowers to create basil-infused oils and vinegars." Other Basil Care Tips If you're new to growing basil or are after a few extra care tips, here's what to know: Transplant your basil outside at the right time. Weiss says to start it by seed indoors, then move seedlings outdoors once it starts hitting 70°F outside, where they should be spaced 8-10 inches apart. Grow companion plants for basil like asparagus, tomatoes, and chamomile nearby to keep pests at bay and boost the flavor. Don't forget about a good fertilizer. "Periodically use a nitrogen-based fertilizer on your basil plants to stimulate healthy leaf development," says Weiss. Create a regular pruning cadence to prevent blooming and create a plant that's more voluminous.