Are you looking for a tree that produces intense flowers and delicious fruit? Look no further than productive and easy-to-grow ‘Rainier’ cherry trees. In this article, plant expert Matt Dursum covers how to plant, grow, and care for these wonderful cherries. It’s hard to beat cherry trees for your edible landscape. They’re easy to grow and thrive in a variety of climates. Plus, they put on a show of soft blooms in the spring. ‘Rainer’ varieties produce tons of golden-red fruits and big, beautiful blooms. Their fruit is juicy, sweet, and perfect for eating raw, right off the tree. If you live in a colder climate, these cherry trees will thrive. Let’s dive into how to grow and maintain these highly productive and stunning stone fruits. What Is It? The US produces two types of cherries: sour and sweet. While sour cherries are great in canning, pies, sauces, and infusions, sweet cherries are delicious when eaten fresh. There are around 900 varieties of sweet cherries on the market, including our beloved ‘Rainiers.’ ‘Rainier’ cherries are varieties bred for their sweet, golden to soft red fruit. They have a mild, very cherry-like flavor that’s juicy and nutritious. They are vigorous fruit producers and stay relatively short in stature, which makes them easy to harvest! Besides their fruit, they explode in gorgeous blossoms in the spring. The white flowers put on a light, floral scent that’s hard not to adore. Plant them in entryways, landscapes, or home orchards, and you’ll quickly fall in love with them. Characteristics These small cherry trees grow up to 30 feet tall and produce dense clusters of beautiful white flowers in the mid-spring. They mature and bear fruit in around 4 to 5 years after planting. When they fruit, they form dense clusters of cherries that are easy to harvest. As they grow, they form an easy-to-maintain pyramidal shape. Besides their flowers and delicious stone fruits, they’re fantastic at attracting pollinators. Birds also love them as food sources and nesting grounds. They make great additions to a pollinator-friendly garden outside their invasive range. Native Area Cherry trees are native to Europe and Asia, where they’ve been cultivated for centuries. There are hundreds of species in the Prunus genus. Many, like Japanese Sakura, are grown for their ornamental blooms. Botanist Harold Fogle bred ‘Rainier’ cherries for the first time in 1952 at Washington State University. Fogle crossbred ‘Bing’ varieties and ‘Van’ varieties to get a new variety of Bings that would last for longer in the season. ‘Rainiers’ arrived in nurseries in 1960 and continued to accompany ‘Bing’ cherries in orchards. People propagated them as pollinators for the more common ‘Bing’ varieties. In the 1980s, that all began to change when growers and customers realized ‘Rainiers’ had such amazing fruit. The parent species of this tree, Prunus avium is invasive to areas of North America. Make a note of these areas before planting, as sweet cherries escape cultivation in these regions, crowding out native species. Planting Plant these wonderful cherry trees in the spring, just before they break out of dormancy. They’ll thrive in well-drained soil in an area that’s elevated for better drainage. Make sure the area gets full sun. If you’re growing a transplant or bare root sapling, moisten the root ball before planting. Dig a large hole, about twice the size of the root ball, and gently place your young tree inside. The area where the roots connect to the trunk should be barely visible. If you’re planting a grafted tree, ensure the graft is above the soil line. Add loamy soil around the newly planted tree, covering the roots. Give your transplant a good amount of water so the soil stays moist. Try adding a layer of moss or mulch around the base of your tree. ‘Rainier’ cherries are not self-fertile. Therefore, plant yours with another cherry variety for cross-pollination. ‘Bing’ or ‘Stella’ varieties are recommended companions.

Growing full-sized watermelons can seem daunting for home gardeners. They take up a lot of space and produce a massive fruit. If that’s not your style, try the “icebox” variety ‘Sugar Baby,’ packed with the same nutrients, juiciness, and flavor as their giant counterparts. Join organic farmer Jenna Rich as she discusses how to plant, grow, and care for it. I hadn’t grown watermelons until this season, and ‘Sugar Baby’ happened to be the one I ended up with. A neighbor had saved seeds from a previous year and asked me to start some for her in my greenhouse. I was happy to oblige and even happier when she offered me any extras as she only wanted four plants. Once summer was in full gear, I transplanted two seedlings into their own fabric grow bag and set them alongside my Birdies metal raised beds. Before long, their vines intertwined with my tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers. It was a beautiful jungle of all my favorite summer crops, and the melons performed well in their bags. After noting signs of full maturity, I harvested the first of several, and let me tell you, they did not disappoint. I recommend this delicious heirloom variety if you have space for a mini watermelon. Let’s learn how to plant, grow, care for, and enjoy ‘Sugar Baby’ watermelons. What Are ‘Sugar Baby’ Watermelons? This variety is an easy-to-grow, juicy, compact watermelon, an excellent option for individuals or young families. While mostly water, this heirloom also contains antioxidants, potassium, Vitamin C, carotenoids, and lycopene. It’s prolific, and our community loves it for its high yields, delicious flavor, consistency, and overall good health. ‘Sugar Baby’’s high sugar content gives it its standout sweetness. Appearance This adorable melon is small, round, deep green externally, with gorgeous dark red internal flesh. There may be some faint lighter green striping on the outside. The seeds are roundish and medium brown, and the rind is minimal. Each fruit weighs eight to ten pounds and is seven to ten inches in diameter, and each plant produces two to five melons. Native Area ‘Sugar Baby’ watermelons are native to Africa and was introduced to the United States in the 1950s. It quickly gained popularity for its size, flavor, and heirloom status. How to Grow These are sensitive to transplant, but with extra care, they’ll succeed without issues. ‘Sugar Baby’ watermelons are known for being low-maintenance. Sunlight Place plants where they’ll receive eight to ten hours of direct sunlight daily. Sunlight promotes ample flower production and stimulates pollination, and full sun will ensure their flesh is super sweet. Water Watermelons are named as such because they contain high water levels and require a lot of water to produce their massive, sweet, and juicy fruits. Water them one to two inches weekly if they have not received that much rainfall. Water at the base to ensure it reaches the roots. The soil should be consistently moist but not soggy. Soil Watermelons thrive in rich, loamy soil high in organic matter, which should remain moist throughout the growing season. The pH is ideally between 6.0 and 6.8, but they will tolerate anywhere between 5.0 and 7.0. A soil test before planting will help determine if you need to acidify your soil. Mulch Short-season growers in northern regions may add heavy straw mulching or silage tarps (black side up) around their melons and pathways to warm the soil temperatures. Mulching adds the bonus of suppressing weeds and fertility to the soil as it breaks down. Climate and Temperature Watermelons prefer air temperatures between 70 and 85°F (21 and 29°C). Cooler temperatures may stunt their growth and cause mushiness, and they will not tolerate a frost. Cover new transplants with a row cover to protect them from spring temperatures. Cool spring soil temperatures are not great for watermelon production. If the spring is unseasonably cool, start indoor seeds later to avoid rootbound seedlings. Fertilizing ‘Sugar Baby’ watermelons are heavy feeders, requiring high amounts of nutrients, water, and composted organic matter. A weekly fish emulsion foliar feed helps them thrive. You may side-dress with compost halfway through the season. Give a nitrogen boost before flowering occurs, when tendrils appear and vines lengthen. Switch to fertilizers that are heavier in potassium when you remove the insect netting, and flowering begins. Harvesting Around 75 to 80 days after transplant, begin monitoring for shriveled curly-Qs near the melon as it’s one of the tell-tale signs that it’s ready for harvest. At this time, the fruit is receiving no additional nutrients from the plant. There may also be a light green or yellow spot on the exterior where it sits on the soil surface and is tough to the touch. Gently tug on the fruit. If it releases itself without much effort, this confirms your suspicion, but if it fights back, leave it for another day or two. Pruning When thinned to the proper spacing, no pruning is necessary. However, when the season is nearing its end and cooler nights have arrived, some growers snip the growing tip so the plant can focus its energy on ripening the fruit on the vine. Propagation ‘Sugar Baby’ watermelons can be directly sown or started indoors three to four weeks before the last frost.

Are you looking for a cold-hardy fruit tree that produces an abundance of late-season fruit? If so, try growing Nanking cherry bushes. In this article, plant expert Matt Dursum covers how to plant, grow, and care for Nanking cherry bushes this year. Nanking cherries have a long history of use in food, medicine, and ornamental gardening. They’re a member of the rose family of plants and the same genus as cherries, plums, and apricots. These cold-hardy shrubs produce small, white to pink flowers in the spring. In the summer, dark red edible stone fruits (drupes) appear en masse. They stay on bushes until late in the season, making them some of the earliest and latest fruits you’ll harvest. If you live in the coldest regions of the U.S. and have trouble growing fruit, this remarkably resilient shrub will be a great choice. Let’s dive in to learn how to plant and care for nanking cherry bushes in your area. What Is It? In the frigid gardens of Siberia, Mongolia, Tibet, and northern China, few species of fruit trees can survive. Nanking cherries, however, thrive in these frigid zones. This is where some of the planet’s driest and coldest air masses move east. For fruit trees to come from here, they have to be resilient. The first trees arrived in the U.S. in 1882. The horticulture writers of the Yearbook of Agriculture 1937 praised their future in US agriculture. Because of their small and sweet drupes, farmers were interested in their potential as a major fruit crop. Today, few farmers grow nanking cherries, and even fewer market their fruit. The drupes have a short shelf life once they’re harvested. Still, for gardeners who grow them, they’re an exciting fruit that makes incredible jams, pies, juices, and wines. Characteristics Nanking cherry bushes (Prunus tomentosa) are deciduous shrubs and members of the rose family. They’re part of the Prunus genus which includes popular stone fruits such as cherries, plums, and almonds. They go by several names, including Manchu cherry, mountain cherry, and Mongolian cherry. They’re one of the toughest stone fruits you can grow. They’ll handle droughts, severe cold, wind, and rain with ease. These striking bushes grow to 10 feet high. They produce an abundance of white to pink flowers in the spring, followed by dense green foliage and edible red drupes. The flowers attract beneficial pollinators such as hummingbirds and bees. They make gorgeous alternatives to Yoshino cherry trees for enjoying a ‘hanami’ party at home. Native Area These stunning shrubs originated in the cold plains of northeast Asia. In these semi-arid regions, long winters plunge temperatures below 0°F (-18°C) for months. Nanking cherries adapted to this cold, dry climate by developing a long taproot and downy fuzz on their foliage. People spread them to Japan, Russia, and Korea. They became popular in gardens across the region because of their edible fruit and ornamental flowers. Today, they are grown throughout northern Asia, Russia, Northern Europe, and Canada. Planting These shrubs grow easily from seed. Many gardeners harvest their seeds from the drupes by washing, drying them, and cold-stratifying them for over 100 days. They can grow in large containers, 100-gallon BPA-free grow bags, or directly sown into the ground. You can plant them in the spring after cold stratification or in the fall. Fall-sown seeds will naturally stratify and germinate in the spring. Nanking cherries need cross-pollination to produce fruit. You should plant two within 100 feet of one another for proper fruit set. They’re somewhat hard to find in the US. Some suppliers and nurseries sell bare root plants as well as seeds. Occasionally, you may find starters in containers.